B280 or 3.0 oil/water heat exchanger - B28 retrofit compatible?

[FABombjoy]

Curious to know if anyone has tried adding the oil/water heat exchanger from the later PRVs onto the DeLorean block.

It looks like I should be able to spin one on and plumb it into the head drain & heater return lines.

Does anybody have a B280 / 3.0 parts block? I'd love to buy one and give it a go. OEM replacements are NLA or I'd just pick one up online.

[FABombjoy]

Maybe this was only a B280 thing? Can't find it referenced in the Chrysler literature.

Anyway I'm going to see if I can't make this Audi part work
46420

[Delorean Industries]

Yes we do this on our turbo builds.

[FABombjoy]

Yes we do this on our turbo builds.
I thought you might :)

Do you have any oil baffle solutions? The final thing I'd like to address is how the pressure drops to 0 on hard braking. Thought about an accumulator but I'd rather solve the design problem at the source.

[Delorean Industries]

Yes we baffle our pans! We also run a higher oil capacity than stock. I.e. The oil must be somewhere under hard braking if there is enough of it. Only down side is Windage cranking. The initial start up has different perameters. We "crank to run" (injection/spark initialization) at 150 rpms sustained for three seconds on turbo builds giving the system time to prime vs standard efi of .5 seconds. This evacuates the oil line below the Windage tray to near stock levels preventing the crank from starting the combustion process partially submerged.

[FABombjoy]

Yes we baffle our pans!
Awesome, good to know for if/when I blow up this motor.

Meanwhile things are looking good for this sloppy mechanics heat exchanger setup. Investment to date: $32

If there is room to mount the hose attachments straight up I'm going to run the thermostat bleeder through this. Theory being that you want the oil up to operating temperature ASAP, so having full flow coolant movement when cold isn't ideal. Might be thinking about it wrong, I'm open to other ideas.

[dn010]

Sorry I'm late to the thread, I'm hardly on the forums these days. I have a few stock B280F exchangers if all else fails. The hardest part I had was bending the tubes and routing the hoses to not get burned on the Spec I exhaust and to also not kink - I didn't use stock formed hoses though.

Cheers,

[FABombjoy]

Good to know, if this doesn't clearance I'll be in touch! Based on the other projects this seems to be headed toward the springtime.

I'm thinking the most optimal approach means buying a tubing bender and running hard lines so they can hug the block. I'll have to go through my bin-o'-hose and see if I don't already have some stainless braided lines that will work. I'm still running the cast iron manifolds so clearance is less of an issue for me.

[dn010]

I have all the related steel pipes for the block too if tube bending seems too much when you begin this project. They're a bit harder to come by since they can rust out.

The hoses I was referring to are the ones that connect from the exchanger to the pipes going up to the water pump and to the block. The original ones are formed to go around the alternator or power steering pump (I can't remember which one it is) that is on the B280F. I had to bend the original tubing with some heat in order to direct them for easier hose routing, sticking a straight hose on them and trying to route the hoses without them kinking was impossible without modifying the tubes. So far, no problems.

[DMCVegas]

Awesome, good to know for if/when I blow up this motor.

Meanwhile things are looking good for this sloppy mechanics heat exchanger setup. Investment to date: $32

If there is room to mount the hose attachments straight up I'm going to run the thermostat bleeder through this. Theory being that you want the oil up to operating temperature ASAP, so having full flow coolant movement when cold isn't ideal. Might be thinking about it wrong, I'm open to other ideas.

I would think that you wouldn't want the bleeder running though this as the air bubbles would collect at the top and potentially block water flow. But if you do want to utilize the engine's cooling system instead of an independent radiator, why not just use the stock Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler, and couple it with one of P.J. Grady's heat sinks? It actually wouldn't require any modification to the car.

Otherwise, how well do these sandwich plates for the oil filters work with the oil sending unit? Specifically on clearance?

[FABombjoy]

I would think that you wouldn't want the bleeder running though this as the air bubbles would collect at the top and potentially block water flow.
One idea is to T the auto bleeder and incorporate an inline jiggle valve on the bleeder tank return. When air is purged and valve is closed, coolant flows through exchanger. Might just end up using the block drain plug as it is working well on the turbo side and was the OEM solution. Would have better flow and be a bit less "hosey".


But if you do want to utilize the engine's cooling system instead of an independent radiator, why not just use the stock Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler, and couple it with one of P.J. Grady's heat sinks? It actually wouldn't require any modification to the car.
I'm not familiar with the auto trans cooling setups but I'm guessing that it pumps oil remotely. I'd rather not run any sort of scavenge pump, so to minimize any engine block oil pump effort, my preference is to bring the coolant to the oil rather than oil to the coolant. It's simpler to implement and a more appealing failure mode.


Otherwise, how well do these sandwich plates for the oil filters work with the oil sending unit? Specifically on clearance?
There are quite a few options that fit. First glance suggests these parts I have should be able to work. I'll know soon enough!

[cineman]

One idea is to T the auto bleeder and incorporate an inline jiggle valve on the bleeder tank return. When air is purged and valve is closed, coolant flows through exchanger. Might just end up using the block drain plug as it is working well on the turbo side and was the OEM solution. Would have better flow and be a bit less "hosey".


I'm not familiar with the auto trans cooling setups but I'm guessing that it pumps oil remotely. I'd rather not run any sort of scavenge pump, so to minimize any engine block oil pump effort, my preference is to bring the coolant to the oil rather than oil to the coolant. It's simpler to implement and a more appealing failure mode.


There are quite a few options that fit. First glance suggests these parts I have should be able to work. I'll know soon enough!

I have a performance oil heat exchanger on the return water line, where the auto trans exchanger should be, for my twin turbo. Being a manual trans I had space there.
I tryed in past the small oil filter exchanger, and also an oil radiator but I think this is the cleanest and more effective way; I have also a new water aluminium radiator.
I have just a sandwich plate under the filter now but was planning to change with a thermostat controlled plate.

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[FABombjoy]

I tryed in past the small oil filter exchanger, and also an oil radiator but I think this is the cleanest and more effective way
Are you running the a watercooled GT15? Were you having oil heat problems?

I should state that my primary goal isn't because of oil over heating, it's to get oil up to temperature sooner and help keep it there. The climate in my area isn't always conducive to a healthy warm-up and this seems like an inexpensive first place to start. If I were having oil overheat issues I'd seriously consider one of those Mocal coolers, tho! But I'm looking at a $60 solution -vs- $500 :)

[cineman]

Previous last winter I was running a custom setup with 2x gt1544 , just oil cooled; now I finished installing the DPI hot side kit with 2x GT1548 that are also water cooled, but actually now with his header I could not use the old filter plate and need to relocate it; so I'm running now without the exchanger.
You can see the oil filter plate hanging over the right turbo.
In summer time the climate in Italy can be quite hot, I had in past too low oil pressure with oil heating up.
Still need to see with the new turbos the heat efficiency but now is time to tune again the megasquirt first, next summer will see!
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