Rings and bearings etc....

[PeterBiggerstaff]

Hi Everyone,

For those that don't follow my facebook and blog, Vin #10985 is now starting and running at last!

I'e been working very closely with Sarah from DMC, I'm sure she must be sick of all my emails the past 2 weeks as we work though all the 'last minute' issues with getting the engine to start after fixing all the exhaust/vacuum leaks.

I still have a couple of issues to work on, she's idling at 2,500rpm at the moment so I need to track down if it's a mix or vacuum issue. I have a feeling its to do with the cold start system but that's not what I'm here for today.

When she starts, after about 30 seconds of running, she starts puking blue smoke. I'm not talking about a little bit, I'm talking about my entire garage becomes a night club and I can't breathe. Once she's run for a bit, I find she even pukes blue smoke when cranking (again not just a few puffs, its thick and there is a ton of it)

I'll get a video of this to send to Sarah, but just in case it is the rings, has anyone managed to change the rings while the engine is in the car? I've heard its a mission due to the wet liners? Obviously I'd also like to change the big end bearings, valves and all the other replaceable internals at the same time.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Find the problem with the idle, set the mixture and then worry about the blue smoke. You may just be running very rich. Leaking rings should not affect most engine running problems.

[David T]

Find the problem with the idle, set the mixture and then worry about the blue smoke. You may just be running very rich. Leaking rings should not affect most engine running problems.

Get the motor running well and get it hot. Change the oil and filter and put the correct amount of the right oil back in. If you are still blowing blue smoke it can be rings but it can also be valve seals. A compression test and leak-down test will tell you what is the problem. In the meantime pull the plugs and see if they are all burning oil. While it is running pull the oil filler cap and see if there is a lot of pressure in the crankcase. Unless you have a lot of miles on the motor (over 100,000 miles) or it is turbocharged and/or the oil was never changed, or it was severely overheated, the motor is very rugged and should not need rings or bearings. To see if the bearings are OK put an accurate gauge on the oil to measure oil pressure. If you have to tear the motor down I would pull the heads before removing the motor. Worst case it should only need a top job unless you blew a piston. While even bottom work can be done without pulling the motor, if you have to do pistons and rings you are better off pulling the motor.

[PeterBiggerstaff]

Thanks Dave and David,

I'll get the idle sorted, then start working though those items, this has helped put my mind at ease a bit.

[Michael]

Who knows how much oil is on top of those pistons. Maybe the previous owner poured oil in the plug holes before a long storage period. I would venture a guess that most if not all of it will clear out once it is running correctly and brought up to temp.

[DMC5180]

2500 Idle RPM could be the Thermistor switch or its lack of connection in the valley Y-pipe. Also confirm that the Idle microswitch is tripping at closed throttle.

[PeterBiggerstaff]

2500 Idle RPM could be the Thermistor switch or its lack of connection in the valley Y-pipe. Also confirm that the Idle microswitch is tripping at closed throttle.

Sorry for the late reply, I hadn't checked this thread... The Thermistor is definitely connected, as I connected it when I installed the new engine harness, then had to take the manifold off again as I realized I'd connected the wrong plug. It could be bad however so this could still be the issue.

I'm also not 100% sure my thermal time switch in the water pump is connected the right way around. I have also noticed it starts better when the idle microswitch is open, not closed so that gives me lots of paths to check.