Battery positive in the relay compartment?

[spikeygg]

I noticed a free tab in the relay compartment that I'm wondering if I can tap into for a battery positive line for a new set of horns I'm trying to wire in. I'm not sure what the thick brown wire is but the post appears to be effectively shorted to the positive battery terminal (based on DMM resistance measurements).

47024

Can someone tell me if this is an acceptable place to hook up to for battery positive? I plan to fuse the horns from where ever I tap from.

Thanks,
-Greg

[Bitsyncmaster]

Yes that brown wire is an un-fuesed battery connection.

[spikeygg]

Yes that brown wire is an un-fuesed battery connection.

Thanks Dave!

[David T]

Thanks Dave!

Make sure you put a fuse in any wiring you tap off. Your RPM relay is out of place. It should be under the metal shelf and tucked into the tab so it doesn't bounce around.

[spikeygg]

Make sure you put a fuse in any wiring you tap off.

David, I mean no offense when I say this but: did you read my whole post? I mentioned explicitly that I am planning on fusing the line I run. This is the second time I've said something (not this thread) and you've commented that I should do the thing I said I was already going to do...


Your RPM relay is out of place. It should be under the metal shelf and tucked into the tab so it doesn't bounce around.

This is good to know, thanks for the info. I'll see if I can secure it better. I've read that these RPM relay buggers can fail pretty easily. Luckily, we have Dave M. around so if/when mine fails I'll get his solid state one. :)

[Josh]

David, I mean no offense when I say this but: did you read my whole post? I mentioned explicitly that I am planning on fusing the line I run. This is the second time I've said something (not this thread) and you've commented that I should do the thing I said I was already going to do...



This is good to know, thanks for the info. I'll see if I can secure it better. I've read that these RPM relay buggers can fail pretty easily. Luckily, we have Dave M. around so if/when mine fails I'll get his solid state one. :)

David does somewhat robotic replies. Most of the time he fails to quote the correct post. I think he is just copying and pasting from the workshop manual half the time. lol.

[David T]

David does somewhat robotic replies. Most of the time he fails to quote the correct post. I think he is just copying and pasting from the workshop manual half the time. lol.

I do repeat things, especially when they are important. Consider that others will read these posts and it is very important things you add are properly fused. Hooking to that side of the circuit breaker means that breaker is not going to protect anything since you are on the feed side. It is also a large breaker so unless you are using a heavy gauge wire you must use a smaller ampacity fuse (or circuit breaker) to protect the downstream wiring. The proper place to actually connect to for horn power is fuse #6. That is the one labeled as such and anyone not familiar with your mod is going to check that fuse first if there is ever a problem in the future with the horns. I don't copy and paste the manual but I do refer people to it all the time so they can become more familiar with it. The answers to many of the forum questions are there if you look. As for the horns refer to M:07:03 for the horn power fuse. At least I know someone is reading my posts!

[Citizen]

I've said it before (in so many words), and say it again. On this forum anyway, if your name is Dave something, you probably know what you're talking about...

I've found that to be so!

Thomas

...

[cdrusn]

Really is it a good idea to bite the hand that feeds you? You get good advice for free, if you have a complaint about it then tell your wife. :race:

[spikeygg]

The proper place to actually connect to for horn power is fuse #6. That is the one labeled as such and anyone not familiar with your mod is going to check that fuse first if there is ever a problem in the future with the horns.

This is a great idea. My only hesitation is that the old factory wiring may be inadequate for the current demand of my new horns. I checked the documentation of the new horns and they recommend a 20A fuse which I believe is what is used in fuse #6. According to the workshop manual, fuse #6 is used for "hazard warning switch, horns, buzzer, and logic box." Any idea what "logic box" is or what these other circuits may consume?

I looked at the wiring schematic and I see the purple lines running from fuse #6 that go to the HORN/DI/DIP PUSH SWITCH, HAZARD SWITCH, and the buzzer but I don't see the "logic box" anywhere.

[David T]

This is a great idea. My only hesitation is that the old factory wiring may be inadequate for the current demand of my new horns. I checked the documentation of the new horns and they recommend a 20A fuse which I believe is what is used in fuse #6. According to the workshop manual, fuse #6 is used for "hazard warning switch, horns, buzzer, and logic box." Any idea what "logic box" is or what these other circuits may consume?

I looked at the wiring schematic and I see the purple lines running from fuse #6 that go to the HORN/DI/DIP PUSH SWITCH, HAZARD SWITCH, and the buzzer but I don't see the "logic box" anywhere.

"Logic Box" is that box up under the steering column that controls the door/ignition buzzer. Because the horns are an intermittent device you should be fine using that circuit. Good practice would be to use a relay and not power the horns directly through the horn switch as it is currently done as stock.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I think they call the buzzer a logic box.

[spikeygg]

"Logic Box" is that box up under the steering column that controls the door/ignition buzzer.


I think they call the buzzer a logic box.

Thanks guys, does it do anything besides buzz? Mine was disconnected when I got the car and I tried to plug it in but still don't get any buzzing. I see that there are several wires running to it but I don't know if it has any other functions. I noticed that it's an edge connector type connection and I tried pulling the pins down a little so they have better engagement but it still doesn't buzz (or do anything that I can tell).


Because the horns are an intermittent device you should be fine using that circuit. Good practice would be to use a relay and not power the horns directly through the horn switch as it is currently done as stock.

Yeah, the new horns came with a relay and I plan to use that in the circuit while triggering it from the original horn switch.