Fuel Accumulator Removal

[SShaw]

I'm replacing my fuel accumulator and I can't get the last hose off of the old one. I can't seem to get any leverage. Suggestions?

47392

[ccurzio]

Wrench on the nut, extra large vise grips on the accumulator, twist in opposite directions.

[dn010]

The accumulator connection should have a nut welded against the accumulator. You use an open end wrench on that nut and another on the connector. Space them apart so you can squeeze the two wrenches together in order to break it free. If all else fails you can cut the plastic fuel line.

[SShaw]

Ah, I overlooked the nut welded against the accumulator. I'll try that and the vice grip method.

[dn010]

If you're looking to reuse the accumulator, I'd try wrenches as opposed to vice grips, when vice grips slip they tend to tear things up.

[Ratrace427]

Agreed. Go buy some stubby metric wrenches. I had to buy a set for this job

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[Ratrace427]

I should also suggest buying a line wrench if she is really stuck. If you round the line nut end then you will be in trouble.

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[FABombjoy]

Don't wrestle with the fitting on car. Cut that hose in half and replace both of them. The outer rubber sheath is gone!

DPI has a hose kit to replace them that allows you to leave the barbs in place. You'll have to transfer the stuck one to the new accumulator but that will be easier on the bench.

[DMC-81]

Don't wrestle with the fitting on car. Cut that hose in half and replace both of them. The outer rubber sheath is gone!


+1. If desired, you can buy the hoses and clamps locally. Here is a thread of hose info. http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?12923-Fuel-hose-diameter

If you take care removing the old hose off the existing barbs, you can normally reuse them.

[SShaw]

Don't wrestle with the fitting on car. Cut that hose in half and replace both of them. The outer rubber sheath is gone!

DPI has a hose kit to replace them that allows you to leave the barbs in place. You'll have to transfer the stuck one to the new accumulator but that will be easier on the bench.

I ended up getting a strap wrench for the accumulator and was able to break the last hose free. I have it all back together but the hose that was giving me troubles is leaking a drop of fuel about every 20 seconds. It's possible I didn't tighten it enough or I caused a leak at the barb during all the twisting trying to get it off. Do you have a link to the DPI hose kit that allows you to leave the barbs in place? I can't seem to find it on the site.

[DMC-81]

I believe you need to have the accumulator out to change the 2 hoses. Here is what the old one looks like and the barb..

47399

I removed the fiber layer, and used a razor blade to carefully score the nylon line. Then I used small needle nose pliers to split the line away from the fitting. The goal is not to score/ damage the brass barbs.

As for new hoses, here is what I got locally and used my old barbs/ fittings:

Feed:
An 18 inch length of 5/16" fuel injection hose. (Gates Barricade 4219BF, part # RBR 27340 at CarQuest Auto Parts ). I think you need 17".
2 fuel injection clamps size 13 - 15 (part # BK-705-1226 at NAPA Auto Parts)

Return:
An 18 inch length of 1/4" fuel injection hose. (Gates Barricade 4219BF, part # RBR 27339 at CarQuest Auto Parts ) I think you need 15".
2 fuel injection clamps size 11 - 13 (part # BK-705-1225 at NAPA Auto Parts)

Apparently the return hose doesn't need to be high pressure rated, but I figured it couldn't hurt, plus the hoses and clamps will match.

Total cost $21.00

[FABombjoy]

Do you have a link to the DPI hose kit that allows you to leave the barbs in place? I can't seem to find it on the site.
http://www.deloreanindustries.com/fuel-accumulator-line-kit-with-clamps/

Or the locally sourced hoses, but the DPI kit is a good value for a guaranteed fit.

[dn010]

Agreed on replacing those hoses. Earlier this year while on a tuning run, one of the sides of these plastic hoses blew out at the connector. Luckily I made it home quickly but it was a huge mess and very dangerous. Once I replaced those, I also replaced the plastic lines that run from the fuel pump to the hard fuel lines.

Supporting your favorite vender is great but if you're in a hurry it is just high pressure fuel hose you need and you can get it anywhere; I got mine along with the clamps on Amazon in fact. Just make sure you use fuel hose clamps and not your typical hose clamps. Removing the plastic hose from the connectors is as simple as cutting a slit in it with a utility knife - be careful doing this.

[SShaw]

Great. Is it easier to leave the barb connector on the end of the hoses opposite the accumulator in place or should take them out?

[DMCMW Dave]

Great. Is it easier to leave the barb connector on the end of the hoses opposite the accumulator in place or should take them out?

Don't try to remove them. You'll just bend the steel lines which are inaccessible. Cut off the hoses, replace them. Take the accumulator out and swap the barbs on your workbench, much easier than taking them off in the car.

[SShaw]

Just put in new lines in addition to the accumulator. All seems to be working. Thanks for the help!

[Delorean Industries]

On the front line make sure your routing is away from the shifter bell crank. Especially on manual cars this is important. We send the lines a little long in case you get into trouble and need to cut a piece off.

[GR8SCOTT]

I think I invented at least 3 new swear words doing this job. What a bugger!

[Delorean Industries]

Out of frustration I designed the opening on our stainless frames to be twice as big. We have yet to build a k jet stainless frame car though... Hope I never need to try it.

[SShaw]

Yes, this job was not fun. I ended up cutting off the closed ends of my 17 and 19mm wrenches with a dremel tool because though they were short, they weren't short enough. Glad it's over.