Clutch slipping

[Kenny_Z]

Prior to my slave cylinder failing I didn't have an issue with a slipping clutch. Now there are times, especially after the clutch has heated up, that I see my RPMs increase without any power getting to the wheels. It is quite embarrassing to pull through a 4 way stop at 5 mph at 3000 RPM.

I think the clutch may be coated in brake fluid from the failed slave cylinder. It was heavily leaking fluid when it failed and the only thing keeping it off of the clutch would have been that 30 year old rubber boot. Is there an inspection plate I'm just not seeing?

Reverse has been a pain in the ass to shift into without shifting to 2nd first but other than that she feels fine. I'm going to probably do a maintenance sweep on the shifting components but I don't think they are the cause of my slipping.

[DMCMW Dave]

It is quite embarrassing to pull through a 4 way stop at 5 mph at 3000 RPM. .

You won't be doing that much longer.


I think the clutch may be coated in brake fluid from the failed slave cylinder. It was heavily leaking fluid when it failed and the only thing keeping it off of the clutch would have been that 30 year old rubber boot. Is there an inspection plate I'm just not seeing?

Reverse has been a pain in the ass to shift into without shifting to 2nd first but other than that she feels fine. I'm going to probably do a maintenance sweep on the shifting components but I don't think they are the cause of my slipping.

You can look in the two holes at the base of the bellhousing and see if the pressure plate looks oily. This is probably not the issue.

Do you have an adjustable link on you clutch master/pedal linkage? If so it is probably set too long preventing the clutch from engaging all the way.

[Kenny_Z]

I do have an adjustable linkage on the clutch but it is adjusted as far back as it can go toward the firewall. I may be able to remove the stop nut and push it back a little further.

[DMCMW Dave]

Try adjusting it the other way. If you don't let the pin (piston) come back all the way on the master it will not fully engage the clutch. Too long = slippy clutch. Too short = clashing gears. Actually if you have the braided line and new cylinders, you don't need the adjustable link at all. The system is very self-adjusting unless you force it out of range.

[Kenny_Z]

I took out the stop nut. With it in I had to force the clutch pin under the linkage but this time I had room to let it hang on its own. It feels much better and I have a slight amount of slack before it engages. Ill have to drive it to work tomorrow to make absolutely sure. Thanks for the help.

[Rich]

Actually if you have the braided line and new cylinders, you don't need the adjustable link at all. The system is very self-adjusting unless you force it out of range.

+1

Long ago when our car got its braided clutch line upgrade we tossed the adjustable link we had added. Went back to the OEM clutch linkage with never a bit of trouble with clutch actuation/engagement since. Very solid in terms of the self-adjustment Dave speaks of.

[Kenny_Z]

I think I had it forced in so the clutch pedal was pressing in the pin enough to cause slipping. The drive into work was much better. Not a single slip and this time I didn't get passed by an old lady in an SUV.