Oil leak near "big pulley"

[mr_maxime]

I'm still not knowledgeable on everything but I have an oil leak that appears to be coming out of around the pulley. My oil level didn't seem bad after about 5k miles. I'm assuming it's probably a significant job to change out whatever has gone bad here.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20161124_140014_zpstcgivdad.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20161124_140014_zpstcgivdad.jpg.html)

[Chris 16409]

Check the oil pressure sender on the driver side. That's a common leak area you should rule out.

[DMC-81]

Hi there,

Yes, if it's leaking oil around the crankshaft pulley, it's a medium sized job as you most likely need to remove the belts and the exhaust for room to work. The new seal is inexpensive so it's mostly labor.

Here's the process:

After removing the parts in the way of the pulley, you probably need to lock the flywheel using a special tool. Then, remove the nut with an impact wrench and a 35mm socket:
47495

After removing the nut and washer, mark the position of the woodruff key on the pulley. Then reinstall the nut just tight enough to rotate the engine to get the key in the 12 o'clock position.otherwise it may fall into the oil pan.
47496

Old leaking seal:
47494

I used a gear puller to remove the pulley without bending/damaging it.
47497

Clean up the area and install the new seal, ensuring it is square/straight in the hole.
47498

Reinstall the pulley to torque spec using loctite.
47499

Good luck with the job!

[Ratrace427]

Wet spot looks to be on the driver side. Oil pressure sender.

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[DMC-81]

Wet spot looks to be on the driver side. Oil pressure sender.

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I would agree that it's good to rule out the oil pressure sender, but in my experience if that seal is leaking, the oil travels along the oil pan in front of the pulley, but with oil on the timing chain cover, especially the bolts under the seal indicate that it is the pulley seal. Maybe both are leaking. The best thing to do to avoid an unnecessary repair is to clean the area up and drive it a few miles and then check for leaks.

[DMC5180]

I would agree that it's good to rule out the oil pressure sender, but in my experience if that seal is leaking, the oil travels along the oil pan in front of the pulley, but with oil on the timing chain cover, especially the bolts under the seal indicate that it is the pulley seal. Maybe both are leaking. The best thing to do to avoid an unnecessary repair is to clean the area up and drive it a few miles and then check for leaks.

For the timing cover seal to be the source of the Wet oil along the pan seam, I would expect to see a wet oil trail running down from the seal. I don't see that present. I'm not saying the seal isn't weeping, but it's not the primary source of the wet oil. If the pressure switch is leaking it will be pretty obvious.

Oil has the ability to defy gravity and creep uphill. Case in point, look at the exhaust shield bracket. The bottom half is covered with moist oil grime.

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[DMC-81]

For the timing cover seal to be the source of the Wet oil along the pan seam, I would expect to see a wet oil trail running down from the seal. I don't see that present. I'm not saying the seal isn't weeping, but it's not the primary source of the wet oil. If the pressure switch is leaking it will be pretty obvious.

Oil has the ability to defy gravity and creep uphill. Case in point, look at the exhaust shield bracket. The bottom half is covered with moist oil grime.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Dennis. Sorry, I didn't suggest that the timing chain cover seal is suspect. I was intending to refer to the pulley seal, and the 3 wet bolts below it.

Regardless, my engine was wet all around that area. After some specific troubleshooting ( cleaning, running the engine, and inspecting), I wound up replacing the front/pulley seal, the timing chain cover seal, and the oil pressure sender seal to end up with a leak free engine. I think the hot exhaust right in front of the area doesn't help seal longevity.

It's best to clean the area and then check for leaks..as you said, the dirt helps the oil travel.

[Jonathan]

Hi there,

Yes, if it's leaking oil around the crankshaft pulley, it's a medium sized job as you most likely need to remove the belts and the exhaust for room to work. The new seal is inexpensive so it's mostly labor.

Here's the process:

After removing the parts in the way of the pulley, you probably need to lock the flywheel using a special tool. Then, remove the nut with an impact wrench and a 35mm socket:
47495

After removing the nut and washer, mark the position of the woodruff key on the pulley. Then reinstall the nut just tight enough to rotate the engine to get the key in the 12 o'clock position.otherwise it may fall into the oil pan.
47496

Old leaking seal:
47494

I used a gear puller to remove the pulley without bending/damaging it.
47497

Clean up the area and install the new seal, ensuring it is square/straight in the hole.
47498

Reinstall the pulley to torque spec using loctite.
47499

Good luck with the job!

Dana, you do one helluva nice job with your resto work. Wow.

This is a job I could benefit from doing, for the seal and to either replace or recondition the crankshaft pulley itself. The one you put on looks brand new. Did you find a replacement somewhere for sale or did you clean up and replate your original one? I think they are NLA from DMCH.

[DMC-81]

Dana, you do one helluva nice job with your resto work. Wow.

This is a job I could benefit from doing, for the seal and to either replace or recondition the crankshaft pulley itself. The one you put on looks brand new. Did you find a replacement somewhere for sale or did you clean up and replate your original one? I think they are NLA from DMCH.

Thanks Jonathan! It's was a labour of love. Yes, after I cleaned them up a bit, I had my old pulley, 35mm nut, the engine bolts, etc. replated in yellow zinc. As you mentioned the pulley is NLA so I was extra careful to not bend it. Reconditioning the parts was economical as just the timing plate (102762) above it is $90+ to replace.

[mr_maxime]

I'll double check where it seems to be coming from, but I changed the oil pressure sender last year. From above it goes to about halfway up the pulley on the passenger side though. It's considerably larger and more noticeable than when the pressure sender was lwaking originally.

[mr_maxime]

Here's a better picture
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20161125_091700_zpstsacqptw.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20161125_091700_zpstsacqptw.jpg.html)

I actually changed out the oil pressure sensor switch not the sender

[mr_maxime]

The other picture because I lose my responses if I switch to photo bucket

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20161125_091631_zps0rpybgjy.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20161125_091631_zps0rpybgjy.jpg.html)

[Delorean Industries]

Front crankshaft seal and a sleeve for the pulley should get you home. If you are not comfortable with installing the sleeve on the pulley yourself we can send you one ready to go as a core swap.

[Delta DeLorean]

Hi there,

Yes, if it's leaking oil around the crankshaft pulley, it's a medium sized job as you most likely need to remove the belts and the exhaust for room to work. The new seal is inexpensive so it's mostly labor.

Here's the process:

After removing the parts in the way of the pulley, you probably need to lock the flywheel using a special tool. Then, remove the nut with an impact wrench and a 35mm socket:
47495

After removing the nut and washer, mark the position of the woodruff key on the pulley. Then reinstall the nut just tight enough to rotate the engine to get the key in the 12 o'clock position.otherwise it may fall into the oil pan.
47496

Old leaking seal:
47494

I used a gear puller to remove the pulley without bending/damaging it.
47497

Clean up the area and install the new seal, ensuring it is square/straight in the hole.
47498

Reinstall the pulley to torque spec using loctite.
47499

Good luck with the job!
That is a great "how to" write up. I am going to replace that seal on my car this winter. Could you tell me what way the nut needs to turn if you want to take it of. Counter clockwise?

[DMC-81]

That is a great "how to" write up. I am going to replace that seal on my car this winter. Could you tell me what way the nut needs to turn if you want to take it of. Counter clockwise?

Thanks! Yes, the nut comes off the normal way, counterclockwise. When you put it back on, it needs to be torqued to 135 ft/lbs.

By the way, here is the special flywheel lock tool (made by member 1Batt4u) that I used for removing and retightening the crankshaft pulley.

47502

[Some guy]

What is the best way to remove the old leaking seal?

Can i use a breaker bar to remove the nut?

If i cant find the special tool, can i put the car in 1st while it is on the ground? Is that enough to break the bolt loose?

[eight8toy]

What is the best way to remove the old leaking seal?

Can i use a breaker bar to remove the nut?

If i cant find the special tool, can i put the car in 1st while it is on the ground? Is that enough to break the bolt loose?


I did this job on mine several weeks ago. Was more painful than it needed to be just for the one bolt to remove! You can try to leave it in 1st and use a breaker bar but you'll probably put excess strain on the clutch and won't have enough torque to break the bolt. Even with the parking brake on won't really help. I tried on mine but felt the car slightly lurch forward and didn't want to mess up the transmission/clutch so I stopped. I didn't have that special flywheel tool as noted above so I ended up heating mine with a handheld propane torch and then hitting it with an impact gun and it broke loose eventually.

Oh and I didn't replace the "sleeve" either on mine, just the black plastic seal, my main pulley was able to be pulled directly off using just my hands otherwise you'll need a pulley puller. Replaced my seal and put some blue locktite on the threads and tightened it all up and haven't noticed a drop of oil since!