Looking for Wings a Loft, door popper reviews

[88Ngone]

Hello all,

Jared here with VIN 10541. My D is currently sitting in DMC Houston getting some much needed TLC, and as with any trip to DMC, you start to ponder what extra things you would like to have them take care of while its in the shop. As such, we asked about the door poppers and Wings a Loft system. DMC Houston said they knew exactly what we were referencing, but at this time didnt recommend the system as it tends to cause door issues down the line.

Before I go any further, let me say that my doors are in the right shape for the system as they freely open on their own after having the door handle pulled and released. Further let me say that I trust DMC Houston as they are awesome folks and Im not trying to come across as ungrateful for their recommendation. Rather, I'm just wanting to get a second opinion as the previous threads I've seen on this subject seem to have nothing but glowing reviews.

So with that said my fellow D owners, has anyone here had the system installed and had any adverse effects happen to the doors after the fact? Would you install the system again if you had the choice? Would you recommend it?

Thanks in advance.

Very Respectfully,
Jared

[Michael]

Mine has been in place for about 5 years now. I don't know what issues could arise unless you use the cheap connectors they send you. Splice them in right and you will be fine.

As far as mods goes, this is the most fun, most used, and best 200 bucks you can spend on your car.

[David T]

For the door opening system to work you have to crank the torsion bars up a little more than normal. That puts a lot of additional stress on the whole door system. Could cause problems eventually. Probably have to replace the struts more often too because if they weaken even a little the doors won't open all the way. The doors must always be in good adjustment too. It does get people's attention though! For many, keeping the doors working without the opening system is a lot of work, adding the door opening system is an additional expense and can be problematic especially if the doors are not in perfect adjustment.

[Michael]

For the door opening system to work you have to crank the torsion bars up a little more than normal. That puts a lot of additional stress on the whole door system. Could cause problems eventually. Probably have to replace the struts more often too because if they weaken even a little the doors won't open all the way. The doors must always be in good adjustment too. It does get people's attention though! For many, keeping the doors working without the opening system is a lot of work, adding the door opening system is an additional expense and can be problematic especially if the doors are not in perfect adjustment.

Nope not correct at all. The kit adds only the weight of a small linear actuator...hardly enough to require another tooth in the torsion adjustment.

[Michael]

Another thing that I should mention is you can drop the old heavy solenoids and replace them with the same linear actuators...making the door much much lighter and maybe, just maybe making the adjustment necessary in the opposite direction.

[David T]

Nope not correct at all. The kit adds only the weight of a small linear actuator...hardly enough to require another tooth in the torsion adjustment.

It is not so much the additional weight. Most doors are adjusted so they will stay open all the way. If you just pop the handle the doors won't open all the way by themselves, you must push the doors open all the way. With the door poppers you need the added force so the doors can open all the way by themselves unassisted. That requires at least another spline maybe 2.

[Chris4099]

I would have to check my records, but I've had them for about 10 years now. Except for an actuator replacement after a few years (covered under warranty), the system has been working great and the doors are just fine. I also swapped out the door lock solenoids at the same time and adjusted the torsion bars down. Never needed adjustment since and the launchers have caused no problems. I've never heard of any issues with them damaging doors either.

One thing to also note is with the door launchers, you no longer touch the outside door handles. If you have the original plastic ones, this means the likelihood of breaking them goes way down. And a new set of door handles is actually more expensive than door launchers (which also provide keyless entry). The conspiracy theory side of me says Houston is more interested in selling replacement handles then door launchers which is why the recommend against them. :)

So unless Houston can explain what door issues they cause, I would go forward with them. I think you'll be hard pressed to find somebody that regretted them.

[Iznodmad]

My advice is to spend the $$$$ somewhere else, like parts that actually make the car nicer to drive. Specifically exhaust and/or suspension mods. One of my cars has the top of the line wings a loft with trunk/bonnet popper as well. Seems to work approx half the time. I didn't purchase or install the system myself. It was something the previous owner had done at a DMC shop years ago. If you've done everything else possible to your car and still have money leftover that is burning a hole in your pocket....then by all means, go for it.

[Michael]

I don't have nearly the knowledge as you on these cars but I have never known a properly adjusted door to need a "boost" to open nor have I seen one that needed a extra nudge to fully open at limit. Plenty of them do because either the struts are weak and/or the bars are out of adjustment. I can say that mine work great after several years and it gets driven more than most cars.
In fact if it didn't work so well I doubt you would see as many positive reviews about them. Oh well, to the OP, it's 200 bucks. If you like the concept and 200 bucks isn't too much to spend go for it. Plan on about 4 to 6 hours for installation. Read my review on them "wings a loft ramblings". If you are skittish then run away. Run hard and run fast.

[DMCVegas]

It is not so much the additional weight. Most doors are adjusted so they will stay open all the way. If you just pop the handle the doors won't open all the way by themselves, you must push the doors open all the way. With the door poppers you need the added force so the doors can open all the way by themselves unassisted. That requires at least another spline maybe 2.

I have the VPA kit that uses big-ass solenoids and it required 2 splines on each door to open because of the weight of those heavy things. However, like Micheal pointed out about the ability to replace the Lock Solenoids with actuators, you should be able to perform that mod and lighten the doors so much that the adjustment of the torsion bars wouldn't be necessary.



My advice is to spend the $$$$ somewhere else, like parts that actually make the car nicer to drive. Specifically exhaust and/or suspension mods. One of my cars has the top of the line wings a loft with trunk/bonnet popper as well. Seems to work approx half the time. I didn't purchase or install the system myself. It was something the previous owner had done at a DMC shop years ago. If you've done everything else possible to your car and still have money leftover that is burning a hole in your pocket....then by all means, go for it.

Kits like the Wings-A-Loft kit aren't vital for installation, no. But they are nice for both showing off as well as function. Especially when you're getting into your car during a downpour. Not having to fiddle with the door to unlock and raise up makes a big difference in keeping you dry. Door opens as you approach, and you just jump in and pull it down on your way inside.

Like I say, I have the VPA kit which was installed totally incorrectly when the doofus that did it crossed the wires between the clearance lights and the dome lights. Which resulted in strange behavior most of the time and killed the reliability. By contrast I have installed the Wings-A-Loft kit on another car. It was both easy, and also reliable for the owner after that with no problems.

[Morpheus]

My advice is to spend the $$$$ somewhere else, like parts that actually make the car nicer to drive. Specifically exhaust and/or suspension mods. One of my cars has the top of the line wings a loft with trunk/bonnet popper as well. Seems to work approx half the time. I didn't purchase or install the system myself. It was something the previous owner had done at a DMC shop years ago. If you've done everything else possible to your car and still have money leftover that is burning a hole in your pocket....then by all means, go for it.

No offense, but perhaps you would be happier with the system if it were 100% functional. Have you tried to troubleshoot the system and fix whatever might be wrong? While I agree that exhaust and suspension mods are nice, they are also much more expensive than keyless entry/door poppers and don't have nearly the "wow" effect that they provide. Just my .02.

[Elvis]

I don't need a loud exhaust - but I absolutely love my door openers.
Built them myself right before Toby started to sell his kits.

I also installed ~5 of Toby kits and they work great. I didn't use his big bag full of connectors.
Instead I think I made cleaner installations.

At the same moment I also updated the door lock ECUs and added connectors for the remote system.

I never even thought of replacing the solenoids since I fixed them and the main problem 15 years ago.

[SKnight]

I had the Wings-A-Loft kit installed a little over a year ago and have been very happy with it. Having keyless entry is great especially if your hands are full, no more fumbling around to stick the key in the lock and open the door. There's also the option to get a remote trunk opening feature which means you don't have worry about pulling too hard on the release handle and breaking the cable.

I had the solenoids replaced with actuators and was able to leave the torsion bars at the original setting.

[cybercusp]

I've had my wings-a-loft and trunk popper for 5 years now. No issues and I personally love the feature, especially the trunk popper. I can tell you that the key fob is not laundry proof. Ask me how I know.

[BLWNAWY]

Nope not correct at all. The kit adds only the weight of a small linear actuator...hardly enough to require another tooth in the torsion adjustment.

As the original designer of the Wings Aloft system I totally agree. I developed and marketed remote door opener kits in the late '80s-early 90's under my Specialty Automotive name, selling and installing a lot of them. I never had issues with any. After Toby took over in about 2004 I'm sure he improved their design even more, as well as updating the name to Wings Aloft. As for DMC Houston's reluctance, remember that this is not a DMCH product - it is a Specialty Automotive/DeLorean Parts NW product. There are overlaps but I don't believe this is one of them.

[DMCMW Dave]

As for DMC Houston's reluctance, remember that this is not a DMCH product - it is a Specialty Automotive/DeLorean Parts NW product. There are overlaps but I don't believe this is one of them.

I believe DMCH reluctance is due to the wide variety of owners that they potentially deal with, and the potential for popping the doors to stress the strut mounts if the doors are set too "hot". The kit itself works very well, but you need to be aware of the changes in door operation with temperature and have some respect for allowing the doors to slam open.

The doors need to work perfectly before (and after) the installation. The test is that you can lift the outside door handle and let go, and the door will open all the way by itself. Weak struts or draggy outer door seals, or just plain door misalignment will cause the system to work less than perfectly. None of this is a problem with the kit itself. But if you start with a car with doors that don't quite work, you can spend more time fixing the doors than you do installing the system.

Although, as Elvis mentioned, my preference would be to hard-wire (i.e. solder) the connections rather than using the "vampire" clips supplied.

[88Ngone]

Well, as I've come to expect from the Delorean community, you all are amazing. You all have given me more than enough to really chew on and think about before making a final decision, and I can tell you right now I'm heavily favoring a self install when I get the car back.

In regards to the other aspects of the D, she has had a complete transmission rebuild, new fuel system, tires, tuneup, and other areas of the car checked out while in DMCH. We also had the seats reupholstered and had the louvers and bumpers professionally painted to original standard. Aesthically, the car looks good both exterior and interior wise. The only thing DMCH is currently working on right now is working out the kinks in the engine to ensure she's running smooth. After some of the much needed maintenance, she's had a few hiccups.

I figure when I get it back, this will allow me to work on personal projects such as installing the wings-a-loft system, a flip out GPS/DVD player, and figuring out a way to have legit cupholders like the one seen in the coinholder slot! In other words, my goal is to make my D an everyday driver thats mostly original, but has a few modern day upgrades as it will be used to travel.

Thanks again for the info and rest assured I will bug you all again....and again.....and again. Especially about simple updates you have done to your D that seem to make it just that much more reliable and fun to drive!

Very Respectfully,
Jared
VIN#10541

[Iznodmad]

No offense, but perhaps you would be happier with the system if it were 100% functional. Have you tried to troubleshoot the system and fix whatever might be wrong? While I agree that exhaust and suspension mods are nice, they are also much more expensive than keyless entry/door poppers and don't have nearly the "wow" effect that they provide. Just my .02.

No offense taken. We all enjoy the cars in different ways. I'm no stranger to spending gobs on money on upgrades most would consider extremely frivolous. Hell, owning more than one DeLorean edges on the level of insane, right?! I don't really care if the door poppers work 100% of the time or not. If you want to know more for curiosity sake....it is a very strange sequence that you must take to have them work correctly. In my case, if you lock the doors, then unlock them, then launch the door(s) it works most of the time. Just shut the doors and try to pop without locking and unlocking, it doesn't seem to ever launch. Weird, I know. Considering this particular car it is on is the one I use the very least, the priority of getting it to work flawlessly is low on my list. If you are ever in my area and want to look at it, just let me know. Otherwise, it will just stay the way it is for now.

[Elvis]

Never heard something similar before.

You could start by simply making sure if it is a mechanical or a software problem.

[DMCMW Dave]

Never heard something similar before.

You could start by simply making sure if it is a mechanical or a software problem.

The door latch(es) is (are) slightly out of adjustment, so with vibration the latch is slightly out of position for opening the door. The launcher is pretty particular about this. Needs slightly more preload on the launch solenoids and/or a lock/latch adjustment to make the lock disengagement more "sure". This goes along with what I said about it all being perfect and sometimes taking some time to do it.

FYI I do realize that this was installed at DMCMW (at least 6 years ago) but things do go out of adjustment over time. It's maintenance.

[SS Spoiler]

Has anyone tried an old street rod trick of mounting
an old valve spring to give that initial boost to the door?

[David T]

Has anyone tried an old street rod trick of mounting
an old valve spring to give that initial boost to the door?

Be careful with that, you must find a place to fit it when closed and it will take additional force to close the door. The strut is supposed to do that. If you have problems like that maybe you need to replace the struts. Also if you manage to fit a spring it will put a lot of force on the latches and they may not release easily.

[DMCVegas]

Has anyone tried an old street rod trick of mounting
an old valve spring to give that initial boost to the door?

The VPA did have "kicker solenoids" in some of their old kits. You would mount them down at the rear of the door frame, at the bottom. When the door is closed, they don't make contact at all with the door. However they took a LOT more work to install. You've had to drill the car to mount them, then you still had to wire up the relays and door solenoids too.

When I asked Don Steger about those after he had installed them on other people's cars, he advised against them. Funny enough VPA stopped selling them too. Probably WAY too much of a preload on the doors to let the locks function correctly.

Now if you're looking for an alternative to kick/push doors open such as what they use on a car with shaved door handles (which is what these kits really are) you can used what are called Door Poppers. They're just spring-loaded plungers that push the doors out. But the problem is that you STILL have to deal with drilling and mounting them, and that is an irreversible modification.

I would just recommend that along with a Wings-A-Loft kit, you should also remove the stock solenoids and replace those with the actuators. The weight reduction will tip the counterbalancing in your favor for the torsion bars to help push the doors out without adjustment. But as it as been stated, you MUST ensure that your doors function properly before hand. Clean & grease all internal linkage and clean the doors up.

[cybercusp]

For my wings-aloft I've found that keeping the hinges lubricated is important. If they're not lubricated then my doors will release but fail to launch.

[ssdelorean]

For the door opening system to work you have to crank the torsion bars up a little more than normal.

disagree


Another thing that I should mention is you can drop the old heavy solenoids and replace them with the same linear actuators...making the door much much lighter and maybe, just maybe making the adjustment necessary in the opposite direction.

agree


The doors need to work perfectly before (and after) the installation. The test is that you can lift the outside door handle and let go, and the door will open all the way by itself. Weak struts or draggy outer door seals, or just plain door misalignment will cause the system to work less than perfectly. None of this is a problem with the kit itself. But if you start with a car with doors that don't quite work, you can spend more time fixing the doors than you do installing the system.


The door latch(es) is (are) slightly out of adjustment, so with vibration the latch is slightly out of position for opening the door. The launcher is pretty particular about this. Needs slightly more preload on the launch solenoids and/or a lock/latch adjustment to make the lock disengagement more "sure". This goes along with what I said about it all being perfect and sometimes taking some time to do it.

. . . but things do go out of adjustment over time. It's maintenance.

BOOM!

Get those doors perfect before installation and routinely checked and adjusted after installation to keep working properly. Even trading out rubber door stripping can, and probably will, affect the remote openers. The rule of thumb test for the torsion bar (I believe trademarked by Grady) is to remove the gas strut and let it hang. It should be about 6-8 inches away from being closed.

I have had my DPNW openers for about 10 yrs as well and had no issues with the setup/product. My issues come from the doors & stock items themselves. I modified the connecting rod linkage to hold tighter and push/pull in a more straight line (but again, I believe that was due to sticky/stubborn door internals than the DPNW product).

Parking on a slight incline may hinder operation as well.

Even trading out rubber door stripping can, and probably will, affect the remote openers.

[BLWNAWY]

The VPA did have "kicker solenoids" in some of their old kits.

Okay, I know I have been out of the loop for 12 years, but who/what is VPA? The only other door opener kits I was aware of were the stillborn attempts by Grady/Zilla. And yes I know some owners designed their own systems - it wasn't that complicated, and was not patented.

[DMCVegas]

I have had my DPNW openers for about 10 yrs as well and had no issues with the setup/product. My issues come from the doors & stock items themselves. I modified the connecting rod linkage to hold tighter and push/pull in a more straight line (but again, I believe that was due to sticky/stubborn door internals than the DPNW product).

Yes! One really HUGE problem I had was after I replaced my exterior door handles with DMCH's metal ones. The handles are great, but they require some readjustment of the connecting cable since they have a slightly different size, and need lubrication inside of the sheath after decades of dirt and dust. If you don't do that, it'll preload too much tension on the Bellcrank. Which leads to binding of the locking mechanisms in the door latches. Best case scenario is that you'll have sticky locks that require a whole lot more power to actuate. Not-so-good scenario is that your stock door lock module doesn't get triggered properly and burns out your solenoids and drains your battery. Worst case is that it'll totally bind up the latches and the door will not open at ALL.

So keep your door mechanisim internals properly lubricated and your seals straight. If you can't close the door with a single finger in the middle of the tollbooth window, something isn't right.



Okay, I know I have been out of the loop for 12 years, but who/what is VPA? The only other door opener kits I was aware of were the stillborn attempts by Grady/Zilla. And yes I know some owners designed their own systems - it wasn't that complicated, and was not patented.

Vehicle Power Accessories. They sell universal kits for hot rods that shave their door handles off. 15lb. or 45lb. solenoids, spring-loaded door kickers (formerly solenoids), and the keyless entry module. Summit Racing sells them. In a nutshell, they are complete shit when it comes to product support & function. One of Don Steger's old employees (not Don himself) installed the door launcher kit from them in my car back in 2000. And the guy didn't do a good job. He miswired stuff on my car between the dome lights and my clearance lights with the kit. So what happened was that my clearance lights were on a delay to turn on whenever the car was unlocked. Then whenever I armed or disarmed the system, my interior courtesy lights would flash. Then after a couple of months of intermittent performance, the thing stopped working entirely.

I wanted to troubleshoot the system myself, but the schematics couldn't be located. I tried contacting VPA and found out they don't really exist per se. They're just a shell brand sold by another company called "autotrickz" who other than uploading some new photos, still doesn't look like they've updated their website almost 17 years later. I tried e-mailing and even calling them (only to find out they only have a Fax line) to get a copy of the schematics to troubleshoot the entire system myself, but they were no help since they never responded. I even used the FCC License # printed on the module & remotes to track down the manufacturer of the system since it turned out VPA/autotrickz was just repackaging their unit into a kit. But they outright refused to help me.

The worst part is that 15-16 years later, verified buyers of this same VPA kit over on Summit are complaining about the same exact things when installed onto different cars. Piss-poor schematics when you do get them, no manufacturer support, and intermittent function and failure. So apparently it's not just my car. I'll eventually rip it out and install the Wings-a-loft kit. If I ever needed a door popper kit for another car, I won't EVER use VPA again, and wouldn't wish their products on anyone.

[David T]

Vendor support, no one cares about it when buying but if you need it after the sale and you can't get it, you find out what you REALLY bought! A big reason most of the aftermarket burglar alarms have to be dissected out of the car. No support. The other big reason, as DMCVegas pointed out, is cr-ppy installation. From short-cuts, to those vampire clip-on terminals, to sloppy wiring, you name it, a quality product is worthless if it isn't installed well. This applies to radios too. One good reason to buy from one of the Delorean vendors. They have worked the bugs out, will sell you what works, and know how to install it into a Delorean. When you buy stuff from a D vendor they know the product because that is what they put into the cars THEY service and have to stand behind.

[rickjames8]

So I have a question about how the Wings-a-loft functions. I've installed poppers on two other cars, but both of those were to 'shave' the door handles, and the locks went too. So there was no need (or ability) to lock the door. Theft protection was built in to the fact there was no handle for someone to grab. :) The door was opened with a single press of a button.

With the wings-a-loft I've read the system unlocks the doors, and pops the door. Is this done with 2 button presses, or is the system designed to unlock+open in one function?

[ssdelorean]

So I have a question about how the Wings-a-loft functions. I've installed poppers on two other cars, but both of those were to 'shave' the door handles, and the locks went too. So there was no need (or ability) to lock the door. Theft protection was built in to the fact there was no handle for someone to grab. :) The door was opened with a single press of a button.

With the wings-a-loft I've read the system unlocks the doors, and pops the door. Is this done with 2 button presses, or is the system designed to unlock+open in one function?

I cannot confirm for the full kit DPNW sells as I previously had the Zilla remote unit and purchased the DPNW launchers separately. They offer the components individually and as a full kit. My Zilla remote works two pushes of unlock button opens just the driver door. To open both doors at the same time: one press of the unlock button then one press of accessory button.

[SKnight]

So I have a question about how the Wings-a-loft functions. I've installed poppers on two other cars, but both of those were to 'shave' the door handles, and the locks went too. So there was no need (or ability) to lock the door. Theft protection was built in to the fact there was no handle for someone to grab. :) The door was opened with a single press of a button.

With the wings-a-loft I've read the system unlocks the doors, and pops the door. Is this done with 2 button presses, or is the system designed to unlock+open in one function?


It's a separate function, press the unlock button once and it unlocks the doors, press it again and it opens the driver door, the trunk release button opens the passenger door. At least that's how it is on my setup.

[Elvis]

each function has its own button

[Elvis]

disagree


... is to remove the gas strut and let it hang. It should be about 6-8 inches away from being closed.



this is what we call overtorqued.

2-4 inches is OK. we do not compensate for weak gas struts !

[ssdelorean]

The rule of thumb test for the torsion bar (I believe trademarked by Grady) is to remove the gas strut and let it hang. It should be about 6-8 inches away from being closed.


this is what we call overtorqued.

2-4 inches is OK. we do not compensate for weak gas struts !

Did I get my numbers wrong or has Grady been over torquing torsion bars all these years?
:hmm:

[David T]

Did I get my numbers wrong or has Grady been over torquing torsion bars all these years?
:hmm:

It is and always was 2-4 inches. I came up with the idea and Rob helped to validate the measurement. 6 inches would mean the torsion bar is probably too tight. I wanted to create a test so you could tell if you needed new struts or a torsion bar adjustment and you didn't have a new strut to test it with. "Back in the day" people would crank up the torsion bar to compensate for weak struts. When you finally replaced the strut the doors would fly open and bounce. That meant another torsion bar adjustment. Today we caution against torsion bar adjustments. It should never be necessary if you just replace the struts when they weaken. Of course if the bar is out of adjustment it is necessary to readjust it but NEVER over-torque a torsion bar to compensate for a weak strut. The DMA does free torsion bar adjustments for the members. We find we are doing less and less of them and most of the time they don't need a torsion bar adjustment, just new struts. Or they need other door adjustments like the striker pins or the linkage inside. When I adjust torsion bars my test is, with a new strut, if the door will open and stay all the way up when I push the door up around 70 degrees F. I never want to see the door bounce when it opens all the way. That can be a difficult adjustment when you use the door launchers (door poppers) because if you set it up when it is cold, when you get hotter, the struts get stronger and will cause the bounce. The new struts PJ Grady is selling now have a lot more dampening so you don't get so much bounce but it is still bad to overtorque the bars. Puts a lot more stress on the whole system, the doors and the body. Last point. Years ago a vendor sold struts that, when collapsed, (door closed) were too long. Put a LOT of stress on the attach points. Would eventually damage the one on the body, it is weaker than the one on the metal door. There are kits to repair that damage and no one should have those struts anymore.

[Patrick C]

It is and always was 2-4 inches.

Please see the DMCNews link: http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/dooradjust1.html


It shouldn't close all the way but should remain open somewhere between 2-6 inches depending on how much tension is in the torsion bar. This is relatively unaffected by temperature. I measured this from the edge of the door sill to the lip of the door. If your door is not in this range then you will need a Torsion Bar Adjustment.

[ssdelorean]

Please see the DMCNews link: http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/dooradjust1.html

That's it. I lexDysicly got my numbers mixed up. 2-6 and not 6-8. I got one number correct :-)

[David T]

That's it. I lexDysicly got my numbers mixed up. 2-6 and not 6-8. I got one number correct :-)

As you can see that was off the old mailing list and was an old #. Rob wanted to go towards the 6 but IMHO it is a little too much, I would stay closer to the 4 inch as a maximum spec. That is what we have been using for a long time.Certainly if it is anything over 6 inches you are way over-torqued. You will know it immediately when you put a new strut on. The less stress you put on the door system the better.

[Max]

Sorry to resurrect this thread but it was the most recent out of the ones I could see. I've emailed Toby at DPNW a couple of times over the past few weeks and not heard anything back, I was just trying to get some costs for shipping to the UK and some sample instructions to see if it's even something I can do myself without any help (zero experience).

Does anyone know if the launchers are still available? Does Toby still work there? Kind of confusing that I've heard nothing back. Is anyone able to share some of the instructions?

[Shep]

Sorry to resurrect this thread but it was the most recent out of the ones I could see. I've emailed Toby at DPNW a couple of times over the past few weeks and not heard anything back, I was just trying to get some costs for shipping to the UK and some sample instructions to see if it's even something I can do myself without any help (zero experience).

Does anyone know if the launchers are still available? Does Toby still work there? Kind of confusing that I've heard nothing back. Is anyone able to share some of the instructions?I have the kit for JUST the door launchers. No remotes, nothing but the actual mechanism to pop the doors and a few relays to trigger it. I can post pics once I find where I put it soon.

Toby's kits sometimes use existing parts that I'd prefer were redesigned entirely (the hood launcher is what I'm referring to here -- everyone asks "what's that?" when they see it), but honestly, they work. Nobody can say they can't. He's the name brand, and if Toby TABs are any indication, prices will skyrocket after they're out.

[Nuclearbacon]

Oh man.... Do we know if these kits are still available? I love resurrecting old threads ;)

[Chris4099]

Looking at the http://delorean-parts.com/ web site, they show most of the kits are available. Not sure how accurate the online inventory counts are though. You can always order and see what happens. If they don't have it, they should get back to you quickly and your CC won't be charged.


Does Toby still work there? Kind of confusing that I've heard nothing back. Is anyone able to share some of the instructions?

What E-mail address are you using? He's usually pretty good about replying back to me. However, I've had a few issues where his system thought I was SPAM for some reason. You can also always call direct at +1.425.451.7000. Granted it's not ideal for oversees calls, but I've never had an issue reaching him that way during normal US business hours.

[Lough Shore Man]

www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rvyn46iWmwI

[Shep]

www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rvyn46iWmwI


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rvyn46iWmwI

[Shep]

Also why is everyone calling this an "old thread"? Two posts before mine was from January, not five years ago. It's fair game to me! :)

(but hey, what do I know, I don't run the joint)

[Max]

I have the kit for JUST the door launchers. No remotes, nothing but the actual mechanism to pop the doors and a few relays to trigger it. I can post pics once I find where I put it soon.

Toby's kits sometimes use existing parts that I'd prefer were redesigned entirely (the hood launcher is what I'm referring to here -- everyone asks "what's that?" when they see it), but honestly, they work. Nobody can say they can't. He's the name brand, and if Toby TABs are any indication, prices will skyrocket after they're out.

Thanks Shep, sorry I don't quite understand what are you referring to with Toby "TABs"? What does that stand for? Which prices?



What E-mail address are you using? He's usually pretty good about replying back to me. However, I've had a few issues where his system thought I was SPAM for some reason. You can also always call direct at +1.425.451.7000. Granted it's not ideal for oversees calls, but I've never had an issue reaching him that way during normal US business hours.

I'm using [email protected] - I think I found it on the website. Maybe I'll just give him a call anyway, I have some Skype credit left.



www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rvyn46iWmwI

Thanks mate, I actually watched a couple of your videos and thought they were pretty good. Only thing I would say is that sometimes your audio levels are bang on and other times it's very quiet. Did you ever make it out to Italy (I think?) for the race?

[louielouie2000]

Thanks Shep, sorry I don't quite understand what are you referring to with Toby "TABs"? What does that stand for? Which prices?

TAB = Trailing Arm Bolts. They are large bolts that fasten the rear suspension trailing arms to the frame. The original DeLorean Trailing Arm Bolts are prone to bend and eventually snap if they corrode and/or seize. Obviously that's a pretty scary proposition if you're driving, especially at highway speeds. Around 15-20 years ago now Toby Peterson (now the proprietor of DMC-Northwest) manufactured an extended run of high-strength trailing arm bolts made of inconel. These are highly revered by the DeLorean community, and in the rare instance Toby TABs pop up for sale, they generally command high prices. This is why Toby's products have always been associated with exceptionalism.

[BLWNAWY]

Oh man.... Do we know if these kits are still available? I love resurrecting old threads ;)

It's one of DPNW's better selling products. And as the original designer of it, I can tell you that it is simpler to install than the one in the above video. It will come with detailed instructions. Just call Toby as others have noted.

[Shep]

I do NOT have it as I originally said, my apologies, I only have the remote trunk release. I was eyeballing it but never got it, so I don't have anything on it.

I think I saw there were a couple holes drilled inside the door (where no one would see) and that's why I didn't do it myself, but 99.9% of people don't care about that. I'm in the 0.1% of people that do. :)

EDIT: thanks guys for elaborating on the TAB's bit, Louie got it spot on with the last sentence two posts prior to this one. TAB's set the standard that has yet to have anyone come close to. Like Babe Ruth if you're a baseball fan.

[Max]

Thanks guys.

I just got off the phone with Toby, he was very helpful. He explained the different systems and is going to email me over a rough price for shipping :)

[Lough Shore Man]

My Co-Driver's Wife was diagnosed with cancer , so I cancelled the trip. The though of me having a great time drinking wine , eating cheese and driving my Delorean around Italy with out him was not on... Good news , things are looking better this time around , cancer has not come back . Put's into prospective the name of my video blog. Do that trip NOW guys as you may not have the gas in your tank to do it tomorrow.. P.S sorry about the video sound quality . Regards Tom

[Max]

My Co-Driver's Wife was diagnosed with cancer , so I cancelled the trip. The though of me having a great time drinking wine , eating cheese and driving my Delorean around Italy with out him was not on... Good news , things are looking better this time around , cancer has not come back . Put's into prospective the name of my video blog. Do that trip NOW guys as you may not have the gas in your tank to do it tomorrow.. P.S sorry about the video sound quality . Regards Tom

Sorry to hear that Tom, glad to hear things are looking better though. If you make it out there I'll keep an eye out for your videos!

[andyd]

....if Toby TABs are any indication, prices will skyrocket....

Hi guys, sorry, off topic but for info, I note that the legendary Dunmurry Motor Company now has


https://www.deloreango.com/uk/inconel-trailing-arm-bolts.html

Andy

[mike123]

my preference would be to hard-wire (i.e. solder) the connections rather than using the "vampire" clips supplied.

If a car already had an installation with the "vampire" (or "T-tap" I think they are called) clips, is it as simple as cutting off the spade and T-tap and soldering that wire around the straight piece of wire where the jacket was snipped by the T-tap?
70262

[Ron]

Yes, as long as you insulate the joint afterwards...:smile:

[mike123]

Yes, as long as you insulate the joint afterwards...:smile:

Perfect, thank you! And yes, for the insulation, I will look for a clever trick someone has posted a video or diagram about.

[Riley88]

Another thing that I should mention is you can drop the old heavy solenoids and replace them with the same linear actuators...making the door much much lighter and maybe, just maybe making the adjustment necessary in the opposite direction.

This is 100% correct. Ditching thsoe old selenoids drops like over 10 lbs easy alone