Refurbishing stock exhaust

[DMC-81]

Hi there,

I have taken my stock exhaust off to address some leaking. Aside from installing a new gasket and stud kit and a new O2 sensor, I have some questions for you all on what else you have done...

1) I read here to have the manifolds planed. I'm familiar with this as I did the same on my V8 Fiero project long ago. Question: is there a maximum or minimum material to remove?

2) What media is best or have you used to blast the the manifolds, the crossover pipe and cat?

3) Is it advisable to powder coat or ceramic coat the cast iron manifolds, or does the coating burn off shortly afterward anyway?

Here are the parts as removed today..

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I had 3 ports leaking (#4, 1, and 3) and #4 had a poor gasket match. I'm glad that I'm doing this job. :wrenchin:

Thanks for your input.

[John U]

I am also interested in the answers as this is on my winter project list!

Is there a good tutorial somewhere for removing and replacing the exhaust bits and gaskets?

Thanks
John

[Morpheus]

1. It shouldn't take much, the goal is to make them flat. Our mutual friend Don @ Precision Cycle should be able to take care of this for you.

2. I'm not sure what media was used on mine, I had a powder coating shop blast all my components for me.

3. I used POR-15 Factory Manifold Grey manifold paint on the headers, crossover pipe and cat. The finish has flaked off a little, but overall still looks good. I have an unopened can of this leftover from my project if you want it.

I highly recommend the one-piece gaskets for this job, as the general consensus is that they last longer. Here are some pics from my exhaust refurbishment from 2015:
4854348544485454854748549485484855048551

In that pic you posted, it looks like the left manifold is cracked. Is it that or just a shadow?

[DMCVegas]

I used POR-15 Factory Manifold Grey manifold paint on the headers, crossover pipe and cat. The finish has flaked off a little, but overall still looks good.

That looks gorgeous! I myself plan on going with an aftermarket exhaust, but I would much rather it have the color of yours. Great contrast against the aluminum engine!

[David T]

Eastwood (eastwood.com) sells the right coating for the exhaust manifold. It is made to take heat, POR 15 isn't. You don't have to have them blasted but it will look better if you do. Any good machine shop will only remove just enough to get them flat. Use Never Seize on the hardware when you reassemble. Powder won't last and ceramic is overkill and expensive and very fragile (it's glass).

[Nicholas R]

Eastwood (eastwood.com) sells the right coating for the exhaust manifold. It is made to take heat, POR 15 isn't. You don't have to have them blasted but it will look better if you do. Any good machine shop will only remove just enough to get them flat. Use Never Seize on the hardware when you reassemble. Powder won't last and ceramic is overkill and expensive and very fragile (it's glass).

You're saying that POR-15 Factory Manifold Gray (the product that Morpheus listed above) is not designed to take the heat? You should probably contact POR-15 to let them know because their website must be wrong :wink::


FACTORY MANIFOLD GRAY is a high temp gray paint capable of withstanding extreme temperatures up to 1400F. This high temp paint will maintain a durable iron gray color and won't burn off. Can be used on all cars, domestic or foreign, and it meets or exceeds properties and requirements of MIL-C-13370.
http://www.por15.com/FACTORY-MANIFOLD-GRAY_p_51.html

[David T]

You're saying that POR-15 Factory Manifold Gray (the product that Morpheus listed above) is not designed to take the heat? You should probably contact POR-15 to let them know because their website must be wrong :wink::


http://www.por15.com/FACTORY-MANIFOLD-GRAY_p_51.html

Unless they renamed it, the high temp product was POR 20. I have used it and the Eastwood stuff and I like the Eastwood stuff better.

[Drive Stainless]

I have not had luck with even high-temp silicone-based powder coats on the manifolds; it will flake off after a short time. The crossover pipe is a different story.

As for media, I would recommend coal slag aka Black Beauty.

[DMC-81]

In that pic you posted, it looks like the left manifold is cracked. Is it that or just a shadow?

Thanks Brandon for sharing your experience and results. Wow, that looks good. I called Don today and have been researching coatings. The left manifold has some soot in a casting imperfection in the surface. That was a port that was leaking. It doesn't look like a crack, but I'll know better when they are surface planed.



Unless they renamed it, the high temp product was POR 20. I have used it and the Eastwood stuff and I like the Eastwood stuff better.

Hi David. Yeah, in the link that Nick posted it looks they renamed it POR-15 High Temp Paint:

http://www.por15.com/POR-15-High-Temp_p_104.html

Here is the description:
"POR-15® High Temp Paint
Guaranteed to maintain rich, brilliant colors without burning off or discoloring.
POR-15® High Temp Paint is capable of withstanding extreme temperatures up to 1200°F and will resist cracking, chipping, and peeling. It is also extremely weather, salt and moisture resistant. We guarantee this to be the most uniform heat-resistant coating available anywhere. Sandblasting is the optimum surface preparation. Can be used on all cars, domestic or foreign. Meets or exceeds properties and requirements of MIL-C-13370.
Formerly POR-20, Black Velvet and Factory Manifold Gray"

This looks promising... What is the temperature that our exhaust manifolds can reach?

From my research so far, it looks like surface preparation is the key. Apparently there is a media blasting company practically right around the corner from me that does soda, glass bead, etc. and specializes in classic cars. I'll pay them a visit.



I have not had luck with even high-temp silicone-based powder coats on the manifolds; it will flake off after a short time. The crossover pipe is a different story.

As for media, I would recommend coal slag aka Black Beauty.

Thanks for the tip Matt!

[Morpheus]

I have not had luck with even high-temp silicone-based powder coats on the manifolds; it will flake off after a short time. The crossover pipe is a different story.


This.

I spoke to a few powder coaters that did not recommend powder coating the headers, they all said it won't stand up to the heat that headers endure.

[David T]

This.

I spoke to a few powder coaters that did not recommend powder coating the headers, they all said it won't stand up to the heat that headers endure.

One problem is you can't get the cast iron manifolds clean enough for it to stick well. The other problem is the temperature. While there are special coatings that may not burn off they will discolor. A product like POR-15 Hi Temp can take the heat and will stick even if the surface is not perfectly clean. Or you can just leave it "natural".

[mluder]

Hi had my cast iron headers and the muffler/exhaust pipe assembly ceramic coated about a year and a half ago. Didn't do the crossover as I didn't want to take the time to remove the rear wheel to get it off... Lazy.
I went dark charcoal grey on the headers and a lighter grey on the muffelr. So far it's held up very well... no fading or cracking that I can see.

BTW - If i had to do it over I would have left the tips of the exhaust the original stainless.

Cheers
Steve

[Morpheus]

^ Pics?

[DMC-81]

Today I extracted 3 rusty M10 studs out of the exhaust manifolds in preparation for them to be surface planed.

I did the following to remove the studs:
1) brushed off the flaky rust around where the stud meets the thread opening in the manifold with a wire brush.
2) sprayed WD-40 liberally into the threads.
3) installed 2 of the old nuts and locked them.
4) heated the manifold around the stud until it was hot with a regular propane torch.
5) melted candle wax in the seam between the stud and the manifold. The wax is drawn into the threads and provides extra lubrication.
6) heated the manifold again all around the stud, (but not the stud) until it was smoking and then sprayed WD-40 on the stud. Basically, the idea is to expand the metal around the stud with heat, and cool the stud down with lube to create an expansion/ contraction differential.

Finally, I quickly applied a breaker bar and a 17mm crows foot to the inside nut and rocked it gently to the left. Once the stud cracked loose, I sprayed the lube again and gently backed the stud out, working it back and forth as necessary.

Easy Peasy (for this level of rust)

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[mluder]

^ Pics?

Here's how they looked when I installed them.
48587485884858948590

I'll have to get some recent pics to show how they've held up. I'll try in the next couple of days.

Cheers
Steve

[DMC-81]

Today I extracted 3 rusty M10 studs out of the exhaust manifolds in preparation for them to be surface planed.

I did the following to remove the studs:
1) brushed off the flaky rust around where the stud meets the thread opening in the manifold with a wire brush.
2) sprayed WD-40 liberally into the threads.
3) installed 2 of the old nuts and locked them.
4) heated the manifold around the stud until it was hot with a regular propane torch.
5) melted candle wax in the seam between the stud and the manifold. The wax is drawn into the threads and provides extra lubrication.
6) heated the manifold again all around the stud, (but not the stud) until it was smoking and then sprayed WD-40 on the stud. Basically, the idea is to expand the metal around the stud with heat, and cool the stud down with lube to create an expansion/ contraction differential.

Finally, I quickly applied a breaker bar and a 17mm crows foot to the inside nut and rocked it gently to the left. Once the stud cracked loose, I sprayed the lube again and gently backed the stud out, working it back and forth as necessary.

Easy Peasy (for this level of rust)

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48585

48586


Well, today I continued the task by removing the 12 M7 exhaust studs from the cylinder heads. Here are the driver's side with the old gaskets and studs.

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Similar to the above, I did the following to remove the studs:
1) brushed off the flaky rust around where the stud meets the thread opening in the cylinder head with a wire brush.
2) sprayed WD-40 liberally into the threads.
3) installed 2 of the old M7 nuts and locked them.
4) rapped the end of the stud several times with a hammer.
5) heated the stud until it was hot with a regular propane torch.
6) melted candle wax in the seam between the stud and the head. The wax is drawn into the threads and provides extra lubrication.
7) heated the head all around the stud, until it was hot and then sprayed WD-40 on the stud. Basically, the idea is to expand the metal around the stud with heat, and cool the stud down with lube to create an expansion/ contraction differential.

Finally, I quickly applied an 11 mm combination wrench and gently tapped the other end of the wrench with a hammer to the left. Once the stud cracked loose, I sprayed the lube again and gently backed the stud out, working it back and forth as necessary. If the stud didn't crack I repeated steps 4-7 until it did.

48677 48678

When I was removing the manifolds I got too aggressive on one of the nuts and broke it. I used a 3/8 size ratchet and tried to force it a bit and it broke easily. So I didn't have enough stud left to lock 2 nuts onto it. So, I used a 7mm stud extracting / insertion tool, instead of the combination wrench.

48679

Driver's and passenger sides finished.
48680 48681 :meditation:

I learned that you really have to exercise patience on the 7mm studs and go gently so you don't use too much torque. That's why I just used a combination wrench.

[Morpheus]

I also used that same stud extractor, it saved me a lot of headache when doing this job. Nice work!

[DMC-81]

I also used that same stud extractor, it saved me a lot of headache when doing this job. Nice work!

Cool, yeah it worked great. It'll also come in handy for tightening the new studs in.

[DMC-81]

I prepped the crossover pipe for media blasting by removing the stainless steel heat shielding and pipe plugs today.

I used the same method on the 4 M6 bolts and the 2 plugs. One of the bolts was stubborn ( I thought it was going to break) but the plugs were easy.
48710

I cleaned the stainless steel shields by first wet sanding with 600 grit sandpaper and oxalic acid, then more wet sanding with 1000 grit and water.

Before:
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After:
48712

[DMC-81]

Questions for anyone that knows...

Were the crossover pipe and or the catalytic converter constructed of stainless steel (or a blend) or were they purely mild steel?

Has anyone measured the temperature of the manifolds while the car is running, and warmed up?

[DMC-81]

Today I picked up my manifolds from Precision Cycle Inc. (http://precisioncycleinc.com/), the shop that deck planed them. They were very rough beforehand, with depressions and extra casting material protruding from supposedly flat mounting flanges. No wonder I had 3 of 6 ports leaking!

Before:
48747

After:
48748

Don, the shop owner only removed enough material to provide a completely flat surface, as expected. This was the second task that I had him do and can definitely recommend him for welding and machining work like this. He is excellent to deal with, reasonably priced, and he is a fellow Delorean owner.


I also picked up a can of POR -15 High Temp paint from Brandon. Thanks!

[DMC-81]

So, the manifold, cat, and front / crossover pipe are ready and waiting for media blasting. I got worried about media getting into the fine screen on the catalytic converter so today, I tried muriatic acid at least around both openings so I could seal them shut beforehand. It worked well, so I continued...

Before:
48830

After:
48831

I guess the cat doesn't need blasting anymore.

It looks like the only thing on this part that is mild steel is the square flange with the 4 bolts attached.

Question: does anyone know if the catalytic converter is stainless steel? It sure looked like it when I was stripping the rust off of it. The metal behaved differently than the square flange which skimmed over with light rust shortly afterwards (as you can see in the picture).

What I will paint with the POR-15 depends on the metal. Maybe I just have to paint the flange.

Also, I picked up some aluminum colored "flame proof" paint to refurb the asbestos heat shields for the starter and cat.
48832

[DMC-81]

Today, I painted these exhaust parts with the POR-15 High Temp. As mentioned previously, I stripped the cat with muriatic acid and I had the other parts glass bead blasted this week. To clean them afterwards for painting, I used a SS wire brush on the little bit of surface rust that formed in the meantime, then high pressure air, and finally, a liberal amount of carberator cleaner to clean off any residue.

48895

I got confirmation that the catalytic converter and crossover /front pipe are stainless but I opted to paint them anyway for looks. I understand that the cat can reach 1400 degrees which exceeds the tolerance of the POR -15. So, in hindsight I may not have painted the cat, just the square cast iron flange.

I was impressed by how close the color of the POR -15 High Temp Manifold Gray was to the bare cast iron. The manifold on the left has been painted, the one on the right is bare.

48896

Here are the parts with one coat of paint done. A half pint of the paint is plenty for multiple coats.

48897 48898 48899

I'll do a second coat tomorrow. :wrenchin:

Thanks to Brandon for blazing the trail.

[David T]

Check the instructions. I don't think multiple coats are a good idea. One thin, even coat is all it takes.

[DMC-81]

Check the instructions. I don't think multiple coats are a good idea. One thin, even coat is all it takes.

Hi Dave,

Thanks. I always read the instructions. The can states " A second coat can be applied in 24 hours, depending on ambient temperature and humidity".

[Rich_NYS]

Looking good...!

That painted manifold totally looks like the unpainted one.

[Morpheus]

Looks great, Dana!

[David T]

Hi Dave,

Thanks. I always read the instructions. The can states " A second coat can be applied in 24 hours, depending on ambient temperature and humidity".

While a second coat "can be applied" it may not be wise to do so. In my experience, the less you do to the manifolds the better as far as painting goes. One kind of coating that is sold is a kind of bluing, it is more like a dye and is activated by the heat of the parts that leaves a thin coating so it won't rust. A thick coating won't expand and contract at the same rate as the parts and will eventually crack off. One exception to that is porcelain. That is a thick coating and can last a long time.

[DMC-81]

While a second coat "can be applied" it may not be wise to do so. In my experience, the less you do to the manifolds the better as far as painting goes. One kind of coating that is sold is a kind of bluing, it is more like a dye and is activated by the heat of the parts that leaves a thin coating so it won't rust. A thick coating won't expand and contract at the same rate as the parts and will eventually crack off. One exception to that is porcelain. That is a thick coating and can last a long time.

David, with all due respect, do you have specific experience with POR -15 High Temp? I'm guessing not, since you were unaware of the name change above. You suggested that I check the instructions. Then you still disagreed with the manufacturer's specific instructions as it didn't support your generic opinion. This product is activated by heat and it is well reviewed.

Sorry, but I discount your hypothetical comments. If you have specific experience as Brandon posted above, please share.

[DMC-81]

Today, I applied a second coat on the exhaust pipes. I stripped and painted the 2 OEM plugs for the crossover pipe as well.

48915 48916

I also cleaned and honed the surfaces for the exhaust ports on the heads today, and cleaned the sides of the engine block.

Here was the driver's and passenger side before honing....

48917 48918

Here is the driver's side after cleaning and honing. I block sanded them wet, with 320 grit and Gunk engine cleaner. I used a nylon brush and a blue Scotch Brite pad on the block. I still have more block cleaning on the rear of the block to do.

48919

Here is the passenger side, first pass. I'll hone it a little bit more...

48920

[David T]

Actually I DO have experience, I still have the can that says POR-20! The best stuff I have used is Eastwood's Hi-Temp stuff. It goes on thin and is "activated" by the high temperature. Keeps the parts from rusting and gives them an even color. I used the grey but now they have other colors too. It has been a while since I used the POR-20, I don't know if it is even any good anymore. I wasn't all that pleased with how it came out anyway.

[DMC-81]

While the POR-15 paint is drying, I'll clean up and repaint the stock catalytic converter heat shield. It's asbestos so I'll take precautions and won't sand it.

48934

I posted the can of spray paint above that I selected for it.

[Rich_NYS]

It's gonna look great like the rest of your car.

I want to paint my OEM starter shield....I'll go with what you use on your cat shield.

[DMC-81]

Today I started pre-assembling the small parts on the manifolds and on the crossover pipe. I used anti-seize on the M10 studs in the manifolds, the 4 M6 X 12mm bolts that hold the SS heat shields on the pipe, and on the 2 plugs. I first painted my old plugs 2 coats, and after waiting 24 hours after the second coat, I cured them on the barbecue @ 400 degrees (after explaining to my wife what I was doing :screwy:). I laid them on aluminum foil to protect them from open flame. They fared well.

48973

I discovered that the 6 original M10 aero nuts were stainless. I soaked them in oxalic acid for a couple days, brushed them off, chased the threads with a tap, and washed them in water. They looked great.

I got new copper nuts with my DMC kit. I wonder if it's better to reuse the stainless ones, or use the new ones. I'll probably use the new ones.


It's gonna look great like the rest of your car.

I want to paint my OEM starter shield....I'll go with what you use on your cat shield.

Thanks Rich!

[Morpheus]

Looks great, Dana. Do you have an after shot of the heat shield post-spray?

[DMC-81]

Looks great, Dana. Do you have an after shot of the heat shield post-spray?

Hi Brandon,

Thanks! Sure, here it is cleaned up and sprayed with 2 coats. I'll probably add 1 or 2 more coats tomorrow, hence why the wires are still on the parts.

48979

[Rich_NYS]

Everything's looking great (as usual.)

What did you use on the heat shield?

[DMC-81]

Just in time for the long weekend, I was able to get these parts ready for installation...

48983

I previously refurbished the muffler with muriatic acid and wet sanded it with 600 grit and water, so that's ready to go too. (Be very careful if you use this acid. Strong nitrile gloves, long sleeves, safety glasses or a face shield and breathing protection are necessary. Use outdoors. Have baking soda and water to neutralize the acid on what you use it on, and on the acid before disposal.)

48984 48985


Everything's looking great (as usual.)

What did you use on the heat shield?

Thanks Rich! I used an old toothbrush and a sparing amount of mineral spirits to clean it on the outside. The stains didn't really come off, but it cleaned off the flaking paint. Then, I applied 4 coats of "flameproof " paint. The first two soaked in a bit, but by the fourth coat I was able to get an even finish.

[DMC-81]

Today I got one manifold installed.

Driver's side block cleaned and M7 exhaust studs installed with anti-seize:
49028

Then, I used high temp gasket maker on my DMC gaskets.
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Gaskets placed:
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Manifold placed. I put gasket maker on the cast iron flange as well, so it's on both sides of the gasket. I installed the nuts finger tight for an hour, and then torqued to 11 ft/lbs with anti-seize afterwards:
49031

I'll do the other side tomorrow.

[Rich_NYS]

That.....looks.....NIIIIICE!

[DMC-81]

I got the other side done today using the same process...

Honing completed and M7 studs installed:
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Gaskets placed:
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Manifold installed:
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Plus I installed the heat stove and starter heat shield which I prepped and painted as described above:
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I also installed the cat and heat shield as well:
49082


That.....looks.....NIIIIICE!

Thanks Rich!

[John U]

How did you hone and clean up the mating surfaces on the engine?
Thanks
John

[DMC-81]

How did you hone and clean up the mating surfaces on the engine?
Thanks
John

Hi John,

I took a 4" long piece of 1x2 wood, and wrapped 320 grit sandpaper around it. Then I dipped the sandpaper in Gunk Engine Cleaner and wet sanded the surface. I tried not to sand in one spot too long. Rather it was an end to end motion. Repeat dipping if it gets dry. When I was satisfied that the surface was smooth, I cleaned it with a shop towel and carb cleaner.

Cheers,

[John U]

Thanks!
John

[John U]

How on earth did you undo the top left side nut on the cross pipe? It is driving me insane!

[mluder]

How on earth did you undo the top left side nut on the cross pipe? It is driving me insane!

HAHAHAHA... I'm not laughing at you. Laughing because I've been there.
If I recall correctly I had to get to it from above the engine. Otherwise - various combinations of u-joint socket extensions.

Cheers
Steven

[John U]

HAHAHAHA... I'm not laughing at you. Laughing because I've been there.
If I recall correctly I had to get to it from above the engine. Otherwise - various combinations of u-joint socket extensions.

Cheers
Steven

I can get a small socket on it from above but can't get enough leverage on it

[mluder]

I can get a small socket on it from above but can't get enough leverage on it

I'm going from memory here but I either used a breaker bar on the socket or a combination wrench.
I apologize that my memory is fuzzy - it was last year.

Steve

[John U]

49204

The nut was no match for my anger and my unusual combination of socket extensions!!!!
Reached it from below

[DMC-81]

49204

The nut was no match for my anger and my unusual combination of socket extensions!!!!
Reached it from below

Glad you got the nut off. I also reached it from below using a combination of wobble extensions and a ratchet. Some I had to break loose with an air impact wrench.

Cheers,

[John U]

The most frustrating thing about the old car hobby are all those impossible to reach fasteners!

[DMC-81]

I came across this thread again and wanted to provide a long term update. After four years, the condition of the POR-15 High Temp paint is still solid.You can see that the only visible rust is on the unpainted exhaust clamp. I may find a stainless steel version of that clamp.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=66396&d=1621949084

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=66395&d=1621948724

[dmcman73]

I came across this thread again and wanted to provide a long term update. After four years, the condition of the POR-15 High Temp paint is still solid.You can see that the only visible rust is on the unpainted exhaust clamp. I may find a stainless steel version of that clamp.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=66396&d=1621949084

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=66395&d=1621948724

Interesting, why did you use sealant on the exhaust manifold gaskets? Those are suppose to be self sealing.

[Helirich]

I came across this thread again and wanted to provide a long term update. After four years, the condition of the POR-15 High Temp paint is still solid.You can see that the only visible rust is on the unpainted exhaust clamp. I may find a stainless steel version of that clamp.

That really looks great. When I was in the aviation business, we tried all kinds of coatings. The best we found was HPC. Their highest temp ceramic coating was the only one that would work on aircraft engines. It's not very dressy but works. Air cooled engines have hotter EGTs than water cooled, so I figured I would go with them. But now that I see yours after years, I'm sold. I'll be ordering some of that stuff.

Thanks for the update.

[DMC-81]

Interesting, why did you use sealant on the exhaust manifold gaskets? Those are suppose to be self sealing.

Hi. A true DeLorean guru (IMO), Dave Swingle advised of that tip to help ensure a good longer lasting seal. He also was the one to confirm that the crossover pipe is stainless steel.


That really looks great. When I was in the aviation business, we tried all kinds of coatings. The best we found was HPC. Their highest temp ceramic coating was the only one that would work on aircraft engines. It's not very dressy but works. Air cooled engines have hotter EGTs than water cooled, so I figured I would go with them. But now that I see yours after years, I'm sold. I'll be ordering some of that stuff.

Thanks for the update.

Thanks for the comment! The key (as with any paint job) is the preparation. I know it says paint over rust (POR), but getting down to the bare metal and cleaning any contamination off is very important for a long lasting job, as is following the directions on curing it with heat.

[dmcman73]

Hi. A true DeLorean guru (IMO), Dave Swingle advised of that tip to help ensure a good longer lasting seal. He also was the one to confirm that the crossover pipe is stainless steel.



Interesting, I ask because I am installing a new exhaust system at the moment and I've never applied high temp sealant on other cars that I have removed and installed headers on. I'll look into this, thanks for the explanation!

[Helirich]

Hi. A true DeLorean guru (IMO), Dave Swingle advised of that tip to help ensure a good longer lasting seal. He also was the one to confirm that the crossover pipe is stainless steel.



Thanks for the comment! The key (as with any paint job) is the preparation. I know it says paint over rust (POR), but getting down to the bare metal and cleaning any contamination off is very important for a long lasting job, as is following the directions on curing it with heat.

Good advice. One more question. How did you remove the cross over. I was repairing the manifold studs and had it completely unbolted, but couldn't snake it out of there. Did you have to remove something else? (Axle or suspension parts)

[FABombjoy]

Interesting, I ask because I am installing a new exhaust system at the moment and I've never applied high temp sealant on other cars that I have removed and installed headers on. I'll look into this, thanks for the explanation!
Something like copper "spray a gasket" is one of those things that if you don't actually need it, it's harmless. And if you did need it, you'll be glad you put it on.

I had a custom V-band adapter made for my turbo outlet. Just a little bit on the flange completely eliminated a light ticking noise. I'm sure given enough time I could have dismounted everything and ensured every surface was completely trued but this was a 5 minute fix that's been solid since 2015 :D

[dmcman73]

Good advice. One more question. How did you remove the cross over. I was repairing the manifold studs and had it completely unbolted, but couldn't snake it out of there. Did you have to remove something else? (Axle or suspension parts)

Remove the passenger side CV joint and remove the cross over from there. I just did it a few days ago and it was simple.

[Helirich]

Remove the passenger side CV joint and remove the cross over from there. I just did it a few days ago and it was simple.

Thanks!

[DMC-81]

Remove the passenger side CV joint and remove the cross over from there. I just did it a few days ago and it was simple.

Yes, that is correct.