Looking at getting another DeLorean, so I need a little help, please!

[DeLoreanDMC81]

Hey Everyone! So I'm looking around at getting another DeLorean and here is what I found.

https://classiccars.com/listings/view/940148/1981-delorean-dmc-12-for-sale-in-salt-lake-city-utah-84101

I was told it ran but the fuel pump went out. This person ordered another one and it will be here in a few days. There are several dents on the panels. I'm not sure what the frame looks like, but I'm going to look at it in a few hours. So all in all in it needs some TLC.

The price is negotiable. Currently he's asking $19,500, and he even told me he's asking too much and that the price is negotiable.

So I guess my question is, what would be a good price to offer. I'm not stupid when it comes to vehicles. I was at one time but not anymore. So I can walk away if the price isn't right.

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks so much!

James
6408

[Dangermouse]

That's quite a price drop !!!

It was listed in September for $34,500 at the same place.

I am always suspicious about cars that "mysteriously just stopped working" but it is a "cheap/easy fix"





PS - James, when did you sell your old car?

[David T]

Hey Everyone! So I'm looking around at getting another DeLorean and here is what I found.

https://classiccars.com/listings/view/940148/1981-delorean-dmc-12-for-sale-in-salt-lake-city-utah-84101

I was told it ran but the fuel pump went out. This person ordered another one and it will be here in a few days. There are several dents on the panels. I'm not sure what the frame looks like, but I'm going to look at it in a few hours. So all in all in it needs some TLC.

The price is negotiable. Currently he's asking $19,500, and he even told me he's asking too much and that the price is negotiable.

So I guess my question is, what would be a good price to offer. I'm not stupid when it comes to vehicles. I was at one time but not anymore. So I can walk away if the price isn't right.

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks so much!

James
6408

Don't even talk a price till he can get it running. Wait till the fuel pump is put in and see if it runs. If it won't then the price is even more negotiable. Even if it runs, get a test drive and see what else is wrong. Dents can cost a lot to fix, especially if you take the panels off and send them out. Check out each piece of glass too. Ask what else comes along with the car (if anything). Get a look at the Title and make sure it is "clean" (not salvage). During the test drive check to see if the speedometer/odometer works. Another thing to negotiate. Not so much that it is broken and needs to be fixed, the mileage is wrong and is lower than it should be making the car seem better (lower mileage) and that affects value. Check a date code on a tire. If older than 7 years you need a set of tires. Battery 5 years. All of this must be considered before making an offer. Of course get a good look at the frame, the front crumple zone and the rear engine cradle. Good luck.

[DeLoreanDMC81]

Thanks for the feedback everyone!

So the lowest he would go is $9,500. And the car isn't running, so I don't know about how well it runs. The frame is actually in fantastic shape. The driver side door is badly dented, along with the back of the drivers driver's side quarter panel.

So what do you all think?

Thanks!

James
6408

P.S. Don't worry I still have my Car. :-D

[sdg3205]

Thanks for the feedback everyone!

So the lowest he would go is $9,500. And the car isn't running, so I don't know about how well it runs. The frame is actually in fantastic shape. The driver side door is badly dented, along with the back of the drivers driver's side quarter panel.

So what do you all think?

Thanks!

James
6408

P.S. Don't worry I still have my Car. :-D

I always create a shopping list while looking at a DeLorean. After I come up with a total, I double it. This gives me an idea of how much i'd have to invest to have a nice driver above and beyond the purchase price of the car. Factor in shipping and storage if it applies.

[Jonathan]

So the lowest he would go is $9,500. And the car isn't running, so I don't know about how well it runs. The frame is actually in fantastic shape. The driver side door is badly dented, along with the back of the drivers driver's side quarter panel.

So what do you all think?

Relative to what values have been in the past 12-24 months, for $9,500 I would suggest buying it immediately.

[Dangermouse]

Something smells fishy here imho.

He lists it in September for $35k, it's now listed at $20k and he offers an immediate 50% discount?

Has it a clean title?

Did you actually visit the shop?

$9500 seems too good to be true. Just saying.

However, if all the paperwork checks out, I would jump on it.

[Michael]

If it's legit I would pay 10k right this minute based on the photos alone. Why don't these people live close to me?

Seriously if this guy was within a few hundred miles I would be heading there tonight with a cashier's check in hand for him and a flatbed in tow. That's a steal.

[DeLoreanDMC81]

It is a clean title, I went and saw the car about an hour ago. It's nice, just needs a little work.

OK, I'm probably going to get it. If you guys are telling me it's a steal, might as well go for it. I guess I can always resell it I'd I don't like it. lol

James
6408

[Michael]

Just check the big ticket items. Make sure the frame isn't toast and if you can, bring a jump box, pull the rpm relay(or just trip the inertia switch) and see how it sounds cranking.

[Jonathan]

Agreed on being cautious of something fishy. Not saying this isn't just one man's poor timing benefiting another's, but there could be more to it than that. Double check the title and legality of the sale, like maybe the seller is selling it out from under a family member or friend and he doesn't have the authority to do so. I don't know how to look into all that official registration stuff and cross reference who the guy is relative to who is listed on the paperwork, but yea, $10k is a pretty good deal for a car in this condition, even if it isn't running.

[Rich_NYS]

I haven't seen an intact $9500 DeLorean in a long time....

[DeLoreanDMC81]

Oh yeah it's been a while since I've seen a cheaper DeLorean like this. I'm surprised he even went that low because today he had dropped the price to $12,500. So I sweet talked him a little and he dropped it to $9,500.

I'm going to head down and pick it up either Friday or Saturday. I'll post some pictures when I get it.

The nice thing is that it's a California car, so the frame is in really nice shape. The dash is cracked all to heck, but the frame is nice. :-D

I just want to thank you all for your comments, I really do appreciate it. They are what helped me decide to even get the thing. I seriously was going to forget the whole thing and move on with life. Now when I get the car I'll probably be wishing I had gone that route. hahaha

James
6408 & soon to be: 2168

[Dangermouse]

Hey now, don't blame us :)

[DaraSue]

You're in SLC? Me too! Are you in our 6-person DeLorean club? Our pres has talked about wanting to do more tech events and it sounds like this car might be a good fixer-upper :)

[Andy]

Could it be that VIN#02168 has been for sale since 2012? I recognised the registrationplate ...

[BladeBronson]

Gas flap and two tone interior? That doesn't seem right. Check the front fiberglass for an indication of an accident and the interior wiring for signs of flooding.

[Michael]

Gas flap and two tone interior? That doesn't seem right.

When a sub 10k complete DeLorean comes up for sale, a incorrect hood or interior color is not a deal breaker.

[Jonathan]

When a sub 10k complete DeLorean comes up for sale, a incorrect hood or interior color is not a deal breaker.

He might have just meant that seeing those things could be telling you the car was wrecked or water damaged at some point and the buyer should look into it... as opposed to a potential buyer being picky that the car doesn't have the correct style of hood for the VIN.

[DeLoreanDMC81]

The interior is black. The carpet is the charcoal color and not like the grey in the grey interior cars. (I have a grey interiored car)

I went on dmcnews.com, to the Owners Directory and it says the hood is grooved with the gas flap.

Here is the info:

REGISTRY INFORMATION:
Model Year: 81
Mfg Year: 81
Mfg Month: July
Transmission: 5-Speed
Interior: Black
Hood: Grooved,Flap
Eng Nbr: 1203
Frame Nbr:
Dealer Nbr: 11101

Location: La Mesa
State: CA

James
6408 & 2168

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n296/DeLoreanDMC81/20170124_181110_zpsoxiucjvc.jpg (http://s115.photobucket.com/user/DeLoreanDMC81/media/20170124_181110_zpsoxiucjvc.jpg.html)

[BladeBronson]

Correct, Jonathan, I'm not trying to be concours-picky, I'm trying to identify areas of concern to help explain the bizarre pricing. I also hadn't seen the VIN yet to know which hood to expect. I also haven't seen a whole lot of black interior cars, so I mistook the carpet for one of the much later two tones.

[DeLoreanDMC81]

It's all good my friend. Sorry if it sounded like I was being defensive, I totally wasn't.

In the pictures it looks like it has a two tone type of interior, but I think it's because of the camera flash.

Now the only thing that doesn't look quite right is the headliner. That is more of a grey color, versus the circle black.

[BladeBronson]

Nothing suspicious about a replaced headliner though. Can't wait to hear what happens with this one.

[DeLoreanDMC81]

Hey gang! I was able to pick the car up this past Friday and what a chore let me tell ya. The car wasn't getting any power to it, even when trying out 3 batteries. And I wanted to hear it turn over before I left this guys place. There is an electrical cut off switch behind the passenger seat that wasn't working, so we had to unhook that. After that this guys mechanic squirted some gas in the manifold and we got it to fire up. And it sounded real good. But... he had to keep squirting gas into the engine for it to run, and that's how we drove it up on the trailer. I'm just giving you all the condensed version. lol

Finally before leaving his place, in the pictures you can clearly see the shop manuals in the pictures. I asked him days before I bought the car where they were? He didn't know and told me he would get right on top of finding them for me. I called everyday for 3 days asking if he found them? He said he hadn't looked yet because he hadn't had any time. Before we leave on Friday I ask about the manuals, and he still hadn't found them. So I told him to go look for them right now, because I wasn't going to leave without them. My buddy and I help him search through his upstairs office, which is just full of papers, and other crap, when I finally find them hiding under a stack of a million other things. So I was happy to have found them.

After getting it home we rolled it off the trailer, uphill of course, to get it in the trailer. It took me, my buddy and his brother to roll it up the driveway into the garage. Oh the joys of life!

It's a nice car but it's just going to need some work, and I realized that before I got it. It's also good to know that I bought it for less than he paid for it. He bought it for $13,000, and I paid $9,500. I think he thought he was going to make a quick buck off the car, that's why he originally listed for so much.

Originally I was told it was the fuel pump that didn't work, and that is why the car wouldn't start. When I turn the key to the ON position I can hear the fuel pump buzz as its priming. When I took the pump out of the tank that's when I noticed that the gas is rather nasty. The fuel pump is all sticky and tacky from all the bad gas. I tried blowing through the return line and it's completely plugged up. So I'm guessing that the fuel system needs to be replaced. Yay!

That leaves me to ask, where would be the better place to get a new fuel pump kit. You've got Houston, John Hervey... Anyone have a preference on one over the other?

Thanks and I'll keep you all updated as to what goes on.

James
6408 & 2168

[OverlandMan]

Hey gang! I was able to pick the car up this past Friday and what a chore let me tell ya. The car wasn't getting any power to it, even when trying out 3 batteries. And I wanted to hear it turn over before I left this guys place. There is an electrical cut off switch behind the passenger seat that wasn't working, so we had to unhook that. After that this guys mechanic squirted some gas in the manifold and we got it to fire up. And it sounded real good. But... he had to keep squirting gas into the engine for it to run, and that's how we drove it up on the trailer. I'm just giving you all the condensed version. lol

Finally before leaving his place, in the pictures you can clearly see the shop manuals in the pictures. I asked him days before I bought the car where they were? He didn't know and told me he would get right on top of finding them for me. I called everyday for 3 days asking if he found them? He said he hadn't looked yet because he hadn't had any time. Before we leave on Friday I ask about the manuals, and he still hadn't found them. So I told him to go look for them right now, because I wasn't going to leave without them. My buddy and I help him search through his upstairs office, which is just full of papers, and other crap, when I finally find them hiding under a stack of a million other things. So I was happy to have found them.

After getting it home we rolled it off the trailer, uphill of course, to get it in the trailer. It took me, my buddy and his brother to roll it up the driveway into the garage. Oh the joys of life!

It's a nice car but it's just going to need some work, and I realized that before I got it. It's also good to know that I bought it for less than he paid for it. He bought it for $13,000, and I paid $9,500. I think he thought he was going to make a quick buck off the car, that's why he originally listed for so much.

Originally I was told it was the fuel pump that didn't work, and that is why the car wouldn't start. When I turn the key to the ON position I can hear the fuel pump buzz as its priming. When I took the pump out of the tank that's when I noticed that the gas is rather nasty. The fuel pump is all sticky and tacky from all the bad gas. I tried blowing through the return line and it's completely plugged up. So I'm guessing that the fuel system needs to be replaced. Yay!

That leaves me to ask, where would be the better place to get a new fuel pump kit. You've got Houston, John Hervey... Anyone have a preference on one over the other?

Thanks and I'll keep you all updated as to what goes on.

James
6408 & 2168

If it has old gas in it, I would drain the tank first, then start going through the entire fuel system to determine what you need. If your fuel lines are original, go ahead and replace them immediately for safety sake. You probably already know this if this is your 2nd D.

As far as the pump goes, you have a couple of options. The OEM setup, available through your preferred parts dealer or the DMCH pump-sender combo unit, which is their improved and more expensive unit. I use the OEM setup. I also have used a combination of DMCH, DPI, & PJ Grady for my preferred parts vendors. The rubber boots in the OEM setup will break down and turn to goo over time. That's one of the downsides to running that setup.

[Jonathan]

Where is better to get fuel parts because of the "where" or because of the "parts"?

Everyone develops a preference for vendors over time. It is usually because of a good experience to stay with who you found, or a bad one to make you go elsewhere. Pretty much all the vendors have pros and cons. Location, shipping costs/times, price, attitude, availability for questions, etc.

I'd agree with Jeff's suggestion of cleaning the fuel tank and system as best you can first. Then I might see if the fuel sender is working or not. The new combo unit from DMCH includes a fuel sender built into the design, so if you need all of that, it might be a good option for you. If your sender is fine, then maybe you still with the OEM style set-up. You can access pretty much all the flexible lines easy enough on the fuel system. Hardlines are more difficult to get at or replace.

Which return line did you think was plugged? The hardline coming back to the tank, or a portion of the flexible lines in the engine bay? Fuel filter should likely be changed out too. You can buy a "filter pack" to give you the fuel, air and oil filters together as you probably need all of them.

[David T]

Because you said the fuel was "nasty" the entire fuel system must be cleaned out starting with the fuel tank. Remove all of the old fuel and wipe it out with Acetone. Flush the feed and return lines. Remove the fuel distributor and make sure the plunger moves freely. See if any of the injectors can squirt fuel and if so what the patterns are. Figure on buying some fuel hoses, a filter, an accumulator, and probably a fuel pump. You will also need an air filter, and oil filter (or 2), at a minimum. Change ALL of the fluids. Check the date codes on the tires. At least you know the motor is basically healthy, the clutch works, the transmission works, and the steering and brakes work. Since the fuel pump makes noise it may actually be working. You may just need to buy the boot and cover and maybe the pick-up hose.

[DeLoreanDMC81]

Thanks for the comments everyone!

The return line I had talked about being plugged is the metal one that sits right next to the fuel pump.

I know it's been said to only take the tank out if you need to touch up the frame, at least that's what I've read. But I'm taking the tank out, I'm half way there right now.

I was siphoning the gas out yesterday and there is nothing but a thick brown goo all over gas tank. So I want to make sure it's cleaned out properly. The guy I got it from said he just drove it into the shop about a month ago, well I call B.S. to that. It even had the previous owners plates from california on the car, and that registration expired in April of 2004.

Again though, I knew what I was getting into when I got the car. So I'm going to take the tank out, clean it, then start moving my way back and getting what I need.

I will definitely keep you all updated as this project goes on

Thanks everyone!

James
6408 & 2168

[DeLoreanDMC81]

Here is an update for you all. So I removed the tank, thankfully, because it was pretty nasty. So much Brown goo all over the inside of it. The worst part is when it gets on your hands and won't come off. It's just a sticky mess that gets all over everything.

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n296/DeLoreanDMC81/20170202_145538_zpsmfw76nua.jpg (http://s115.photobucket.com/user/DeLoreanDMC81/media/20170202_145538_zpsmfw76nua.jpg.html)

I'm so thankful for the acetone, I poured that into the tank, sloshed it around, used a rag to wipe it off inside, and dumped out the mess. It worked FANTASTIC! It was much easier than I thought It was going to be.

Of course I had to take the coolant pipes off and there was no coolant in the engine at all, just water that came pouring out. And it was nasty brown rust water.

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n296/DeLoreanDMC81/20170202_135004_zpszozfueux.jpg (http://s115.photobucket.com/user/DeLoreanDMC81/media/20170202_135004_zpszozfueux.jpg.html)

So I can only imagine how the rest of the engine looks.

Here's a question for you, I want to get a new radiator hose kit, along with a new radiator, and in was curious if the one Houston selis good, or I was also looking at getting Hervey's kit. Any ideas from you all?

Thanks!

James
6408 & 2168

[sdg3205]

Avoid Hervey.

I've had issues with the DMCH rad, but others haven't. I run a DPI rad now.

[Ras12]

If you are going the DMCH route check out...

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?14737-DMCH-Radiator-with-Complete-Hose-Kit-NEW-IN-BOX

Good luck.

[OverlandMan]

Here is an update for you all. So I removed the tank, thankfully, because it was pretty nasty. So much Brown goo all over the inside of it. The worst part is when it gets on your hands and won't come off. It's just a sticky mess that gets all over everything.


A box of disposable gloves are your best friend with stuff like this. They also came in quite handy when I was bleeding my brakes a few years ago. Brake fluid is hard on your skin after prolonged exposure, much like gasoline.

[David T]

A box of disposable gloves are your best friend with stuff like this. They also came in quite handy when I was bleeding my brakes a few years ago. Brake fluid is hard on your skin after prolonged exposure, much like gasoline.

If you are going to talk about PPE (Personal Protective Equipment) you should also include eye protection and a mask. Especially when working with Acetone. There is also the fire hazard aspect to consider so as long as the tank is out you should not clean it inside a structure. Do it outside where there is plenty of ventilation. When choosing a mask we are not talking about the disposable dust masks. You should have one that can filter out organic solvents and it should fit properly. Keep water and a fire extinguisher handy. Use a metal can for the waste with a tight fitting lid like a safety can. Dispose of liquids and hazardous waste properly. When you are done that tank should be spotless inside. Take it easy on that stud on the bottom or it can come loose. If the insides of the tank is as nasty as you say, you should flush the feed and return lines to the motor. When done there should be no trace of that "dead" fuel smell if you did it right.

[DMC-81]

A box of disposable gloves are your best friend with stuff like this. They also came in quite handy when I was bleeding my brakes a few years ago. Brake fluid is hard on your skin after prolonged exposure, much like gasoline.

Thanks Jeff. This is sage advice. I use disposable gloves every time I handle chemicals, and breathing protection where appropriate. My uncle was a shop teacher in high school teaching motor mechanics and was an avid DIYer building engines, plank boats, etc. Anyway, later in life, he died of leukemia. It wasn't pretty. I suspect long term exposure to related chemicals.

Here's a good article:

http://www.amfs.com/news/articles-from-our-experts/effects-of-crude-oil-exposure/

My brother builds various units for crude oil refineries, and he does the same.

[DeLoreanDMC81]

Hey Gang! So after a lengthy time away from home it's finally time to start working on the car again.

I was going to get Hervey's fuel puel pump, but can't decide to get the new kit or the Euro kit. I don't know which is better? What do you all think?

Thanks

James
6408 & 2168

[David T]

Hey Gang! So after a lengthy time away from home it's finally time to start working on the car again.

I was going to get Hervey's fuel puel pump, but can't decide to get the new kit or the Euro kit. I don't know which is better? What do you all think?

Thanks

James
6408 & 2168

The newer replacement unit is very nice but expensive. If all of the parts inside the tank and the sender is also bad, all of those problems are fixed at once with the new unit. If you are on a budget and can salvage most of the old parts,the OEM system is an option.

[DeLoreanDMC81]

Yeah unfortunately everything in the tank has to be replaced. The pump no longer functions.

The price for his new fuel pump and the Euro style are the same price. So I didn't know if one was a little better over the other?

James
6408 & 2168

[Morpheus]

Does Hervey's "new" kit allow you to replace individual components if/when they die? Fuel pumps have a finite lifespan, after all. Also, the "Euro" style subjects in-tank rubber hoses & boots to Ethanol based fuels which could affect longevity, just FYI.

The DMCH all in one unit is a bit more pricey, but when the pump component died on me this summer (be sure to thoroughly clean out your tank BEFORE install, boys & girls) , DMCH was able to sell me a replacement pump component, new hoses, and pickup filter for under $100.

You get what you pay for.

[Michael]

I would highly recommend you do some research on Special T and Hervey's reputation. If you need more info just do a search here.

[ccurzio]

I would highly recommend you do some research on Special T and Hervey's reputation. If you need more info just do a search here.

This. I cannot recommend against doing business with Hervey strong enough. Stay far away.

[David T]

This. I cannot recommend against doing business with Hervey strong enough. Stay far away.

While it is true not every customer of Special T is satisfied with the service, many are. I guess it depends on how much customer service and "Hand Holding" you expect from a vendor. He is an alternate source and his prices are fair. His service leaves something to be desired.

[DeLoreanDMC81]

Hey gang! So I was able to find a good replacement for the fuel pump, thanks to Chris 16409.

I got the accumulator out finally. I wish I would have known sooner about the access hole below the console. I know it's there now! lol

Then I had to go ahead and buy one of Dave M.'s Solid State Relay, which are amazing. I bought one from him last year.

Anywho, I hooked the new pump up, to see if it would work, but nothing happened. Then I took the pump relay out and jumped it with a paper clip. That brought it to life. So I knew the relay was bad.

Since I need to replace all my rubber fuel lines, does anyone have a preference on where to get new ones? I know just about everyone sells them, but is one vender better with their product, and still reasonably priced?

James
6408 & 2168

[Michael]

While it is true not every customer of Special T is satisfied with the service, many are. I guess it depends on how much customer service and "Hand Holding" you expect from a vendor.

Hand holding?? Listen I don't need my hand held buddy. What I want from the guy that I am spending hard earned money with is an ounce of gratitude and not be scolded be some jackass over the phone because he made a mistake.

[David T]

Hand holding?? Listen I don't need my hand held buddy. What I want from the guy that I am spending hard earned money with is an ounce of gratitude and not be scolded be some jackass over the phone because he made a mistake.

That sounds terrible! No wonder you are not happy with his service. Of course this is only your side of things so we have no idea what actually transpired. We can assume though that you were not completely satisfied with the customer service.

[Michael]

That sounds terrible! No wonder you are not happy with his service. Of course this is only your side of things so we have no idea what actually transpired. We can assume though that you were not completely satisfied with the customer service.
I so wish I had recorded that call. It never occurred to me that I would have to.

[djdogbone]

I have bought from almost every vendor... saving my Josh purchases for some major upgrades. I have had good experiences with "Special-T." My conversations are always short, frank and I get what I need. Sometimes he bills late. That's my only issue I ever had with him.

My best experiences have been with DMC Midwest. I went with Special-T because I had existing equipment on my car.

Josh has been really good to my fellow DMC owners in San Antonio and I LOVE what he's doing with his custom parts....


While it is true not every customer of Special T is satisfied with the service, many are. I guess it depends on how much customer service and "Hand Holding" you expect from a vendor. He is an alternate source and his prices are fair. His service leaves something to be desired.

[ccurzio]

It's not a matter of IF you will be screwed by Hervey, it's a matter of WHEN. Dude straight-up STOLE from me on my very first order. "Hand-holding" (whatever the hell that's supposed to mean) doesn't even enter into it.

I bought his tune-up kit which was advertised with Platinum +4 plugs. He sent me the kit with cheap Champion plugs, so I called to find out why he messed up. He gave me his standard "I'm only one person" lecture and said he was out of stock on the Bosch plugs, which (according to him) is why he sent the Champion plugs. I got annoyed, and said that you don't just send a cheaper substitute when money has been paid for something that's not in stock, you contact the buyer and see what needs to be worked out.

He repeated his "only one man" spiel and said that the time demands for something like that were prohibitive, but swore he'd send me the right plugs when they came in. He never did, and after months of waiting he then insisted he didn't owe me anything.

You don't have problems with him until you do. And when you do, he'll find every reason in the world to explain why it's not his fault. When that doesn't work, he'll fall back on to his tired old "I'm just one man" bullshit.

Don't do business with him.

[David T]

It's not a matter of IF you will be screwed by Hervey, it's a matter of WHEN. Dude straight-up STOLE from me on my very first order. "Hand-holding" (whatever the hell that's supposed to mean) doesn't even enter into it.

I bought his tune-up kit which was advertised with Platinum +4 plugs. He sent me the kit with cheap Champion plugs, so I called to find out why he messed up. He gave me his standard "I'm only one person" lecture and said he was out of stock on the Bosch plugs, which (according to him) is why he sent the Champion plugs. I got annoyed, and said that you don't just send a cheaper substitute when money has been paid for something that's not in stock, you contact the buyer and see what needs to be worked out.

He repeated his "only one man" spiel and said that the time demands for something like that were prohibitive, but swore he'd send me the right plugs when they came in. He never did, and after months of waiting he then insisted he didn't owe me anything.

You don't have problems with him until you do. And when you do, he'll find every reason in the world to explain why it's not his fault. When that doesn't work, he'll fall back on to his tired old "I'm just one man" bullshit.

Don't do business with him.

So you still have the Champion plugs and you expect the vendor to give you another set of plugs too. If you used a credit card them maybe you should call them up and say you are not happy and they will pull his payment till this can be straightened out.

[ccurzio]

So you still have the Champion plugs and you expect the vendor to give you another set of plugs too.

I expect the vendor to do what they said they would do. What a novel idea!

I told him I would absolutely send back the Champion plugs because I would never use them and it's not what I ordered. He said not to worry about it, just keep them and he'd still send the right ones when they came in. I still have those damn plugs in my garage somewhere, still in the original box.


If you used a credit card them maybe you should call them up and say you are not happy and they will pull his payment till this can be straightened out.

This was like 6 years ago, and months after the fact he changed his story and said he didn't owe me anything.

I don't know why you feel the need to defend the guy. He's screwed over plenty of people, many of them worse than me.

[David T]

Every vendor has some customers that were not and never will be fully satisfied. I am not defending John but only point out we are only hearing your side of the story. If you were that dissatisfied with him you should have done as I suggested and called your credit card company. Generally speaking the companies, vendors, that serve us go above and beyond to try to satisfy their customers. It is a small community and word gets around. John has a reputation as not having the best customer service but even with that he often goes above and beyond to please his customers. Instead of bashing him here maybe you should try to settle it between you and him. When you deal with the public you can never please every customer, that's just the way it is. If his service was truly as bad as you say for a majority of his customers, at some point he would go out of business. BTW, he does not only serve the Delorean community, he supplies parts to many other make cars.

[ccurzio]

You say you're not defending him, and then you go into full-on defense mode. Sorry, but that's funny. :)


we are only hearing your side of the story.

You keep saying this to people. At some point the shitty "one-side of the story" stories that come out about Hervey really should start adding up.


Instead of bashing him here maybe you should try to settle it between you and him.

I think you missed the part (twice) where I said I tried that already. It doesn't work with him.

Anyway, I don't really have an interest in turning this thread into justification as to why Hervey is terrible to do business with. I put my warning out there and others have had similarly nasty experiences with him. If you want to roll the dice with him that's your business. I wouldn't recommend it. *shrug*

[Rich_NYS]

If you guys wanna derail threads, you should take it over to the thug forum yo! (lol)

(BTW, I read where Hervey was bashing engineers. A DeLorean vendor....bashing engineers.....very odd.)

[DeLoreanDMC81]

Ha, and all I wanted to know is where is the better place to get some fuel lines?

All I can say is that it's not cool to pay for something, then get something completely different. I wouldn't be happy. I've talked with John several times and he's always been pleasant with me. That's just talking though, I haven't tried to get an order straightened out.

Maybe I can pull this thread back in a little bit.

Another question I have is where the heck does the wire for the otterstat go??? I've tried looking everywhere for my answer but have come up empty. My otterstat is not plugged in to anything, and I can't find the wire hanging anywhere.

Thanks

James
6408 & 2168

[DeLoreanDMC81]

Hey gang! So it's been a while since I've posted in here.

The fantastic news is that the car is finally running! Got new fuel lines from Martin, over in the UK, and they work great.

There was so much garbage in the coolant lines so I took those off, cleaned them out and am ready to re-install them. Then I'm going to get a coolant flush.

My biggest question is where the heck do the wires to the otterstat go???

My otterstat hasn't been plugged in since I bought the car several months ago, and I can't find any loose wires hanging down anywhere. And if they got torn off where would I look for them? Do they come up through one of the holes in the frame, or somewhere else?

Thanks!

James
6408 & 2168

[DaraSue]

Here's mine with the wires intact.
52135

They go into a small bundle of wires that runs along the coolant pipe up to the bulkhead, where it joins the large bundle of wires there.

52136

According to the schematic, the green wire goes to the #5 fuse and the black/orange one goes to the fan relay.

(If you didn't know, here's a helpful collection of wiring diagrams: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?40-All-Wiring-Schematics )

Hopefully your PO didn't yank the plugs off and you can find the wires with a minimum of aggravation...

P. S. since you mentioned there being a bunch of crud in the coolant lines, keep a real close eye on your temp gauge. I had a similar issue in my car (PO had done a crap job storing it since 1993 or so) and a bunch of rust and sediment was congealing around the cylinders, gumming up the thermostat and making it randomly overheat.

[DeLoreanDMC81]

Thank you so much for that info, that helps out a ton. That's more info than I've gotten from anyone, about those wires, in 3 months. lol

Following your pictures I think I found those otterstat wires I've been looking for.

Tell me, does this look right to you?

James
6408 & 2168

[Farrar]

Why have you connected the otterstat wires to the ignition ballast resistor?

[DMC5180]

Wow, what [emoji90] job. They absolutely don't belong there. Loose the 2 in 1 adapter too. I assume your fans ran all the time with the key ON?




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[DeLoreanDMC81]

Hey, don't look at me, I didn't connect those to the ignition ballast. That's why I took a picture of it so you all could see how stupid the previous owner was.

I also feel a little dumb not catching it sooner. I would always look at it and think, that doesn't look right.

You are correct, the fans would run all the time when I had the key on. Consider the 2 in 1 connector history. I don't want it on there.

Just glad I'm able to finally plug the otterstat back in correctly. Yay!

James
6408 & 2168

[David T]

Once you find stuff like that you have to keep your eye out for other, wacky things. No telling what you can find.

[DMC5180]

Not, implying You. You had already stated the DPO did it. Now you need to plug them back in and let engine run till the fans cycle ON and OFF once to verify the Otterstat is still Good.


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[DaraSue]

Thank you so much for that info, that helps out a ton. That's more info than I've gotten from anyone, about those wires, in 3 months. lol

Following your pictures I think I found those otterstat wires I've been looking for.

Tell me, does this look right to you?


Glad I could help out! And man, that's some A+ Previous Owner Syndrome, lol... :facepalm:

Something else you can do with the otterstat once you verify that it works is put an industrial-grade zip tie around it to make sure it doesn't shake loose while you're going down the highway. You can kind of see mine in the pic where it goes between the plugs.

[DeLoreanDMC81]

Hey gang! It's been a while since I've updated my progress on getting the car back on the road. So far so good. I've been out of town for several months now and haven't been able to work on the car.

Now I'm back, cleaned my coolant lines, got them reconnected, and even got the block plugs out with extreme ease!

Now is the time to fill the car back up with coolant. I'm trying to clean out the block the best I can, by sticking the garden hose in the back hose, to get all the loose debris and junk out.

My question is which way does the coolant flow? From the driver's side, to the radiator, then back towards the engine on the passenger side? Or vise versa?

And about how much coolant does it take to fill the system?

Thanks all, and hopefully by tomorrow I'll be completely finished with things, for now.

James
6408 & 2168

[81dmc]

My question is which way does the coolant flow? From the driver's side, to the radiator, then back towards the engine on the passenger side?


Correct.

[David T]

Completely dry almost 4 gallons. If you can't drain every drop out, closer to 3 1/2 Gallons.

[DMC5180]

Also the heater core lines don’t flush out naturally either. Technically, you would need to disconnect the lines where they attach to the engine. Then connect extension hoses to the lines too clear them out. Most people don’t go to the trouble to do this and just let the new coolant dilute the 1-2 quarts that might be left in the system.

[DeLoreanDMC81]

Hey everyone! It's been a while since I posted here.

I can't believe I didn't say it till now, but I got the car completely running, filled it with coolant and hopefully got the lines bled. Of course it's leaking in a few spots, mainly because the ends of the coolant pipes themselves are corroded and eaten through. But the car runs!

I meant to ask this forever and a day ago, ever since I've had the car the passenger side door has been dead. Meaning, lights do not work on it and the window won't work. The lights do work on the drivers side, can't remember if the window does though.

Any suggestions on what to look for with that problem. It wouldn't bother me so much but the passenger window is rolled down a little bit and I don't want water or garbage getting into the car.

Thanks everyone!

James
2168 & 6408

[DMC-Ron]

Hey everyone! It's been a while since I posted here.

I can't believe I didn't say it till now, but I got the car completely running, filled it with coolant and hopefully got the lines bled. Of course it's leaking in a few spots, mainly because the ends of the coolant pipes themselves are corroded and eaten through. But the car runs!

I meant to ask this forever and a day ago, ever since I've had the car the passenger side door has been dead. Meaning, lights do not work on it and the window won't work. The lights do work on the drivers side, can't remember if the window does though.

Any suggestions on what to look for with that problem. It wouldn't bother me so much but the passenger window is rolled down a little bit and I don't want water or garbage getting into the car.

Thanks everyone!

James
2168 & 6408

So the door lights and the door window don't have a lot in common electrically. Perhaps they are independent problems:

Just looking first at the door lights - does the door ajar warning come on with only the passenger door open? (I'm assuming the door ajar warning light is working with the driver door). If not, then you might check the door plunger switch and/or the ground connection for the switch. If the warning light comes on, then check the bulbs to make sure they're not burned out. If they're OK, check the purple wire power to the door lights. This can be checked without opening up the door by taking a light lens off and using a meter to see if the bulb socket has +12 volts as measured to a good ground point.

For the window - Is there any movement or noise at all when the window switch is activated? If there is, then it could be something jammed mechanically. If not, then check to see if the motor is getting power and ground. The polarity reverses to the motor in order to change direction. If no voltage to the motor, it may be a switch problem or a wiring issue. Pull the switch and check that +12 power wire is making a good connection (light green w/white). Also check that the ground is connected (black). Can you measure 12 volt power between them? If the power connections are good, check to see if power is headed out the wires to the window motor (the slate/red wire and the slate/blue wire) when the switch is pushed up and down.

Ron

[DeLoreanDMC81]

Thanks for the help Ron. I actually never thought of looking at the door switch. The drivers ajar light goes off when you you push in the drivers side switch, but does nothing for the passengers side.

So then I crawled under the dash and took the picture. You can see these wires just hanging there. Any idea where they attach to? I assum they go to the passenger side switch, but there are 4 wires total and only 2 hook up areas.

Thanks!

James

[Jonathan]

Thanks for the help Ron. I actually never thought of looking at the door switch. The drivers ajar light goes off when you you push in the drivers side switch, but does nothing for the passengers side.

So then I crawled under the dash and took the picture. You can see these wires just hanging there. Any idea where they attach to? I assum they go to the passenger side switch, but there are 4 wires total and only 2 hook up areas.

Thanks!

James

Those extra wires on the passenger side are probably for the glovebox light. The light itself or the switch that is supposed to be located just beside where the latch is. I know when I first got my car, that switch was hanging down and I didn't even see it right away. It is the same type of switch that's used for the engine bay light.

[DeLoreanDMC81]

Oh OK, you are correct. My glove box doesn't have a light, at all. I gues the previous owner removed it for whatever reason? It still has the switch hanging under the dash area. So at least I know where the switch wires are. lol

Here is the next question, out of the 3 wires, in the picture of my previous post, which one will hook up to the door? It's just problematic because you can't just tell me to hook up the purple one, because they're all purple. lol

One has a long black plastic connector with 2 wires coming from it. The other has a long black plastic connector with only one wire. And the other one is wrapped around the 2 other wires and has just a bare metal connector.

As always, any help is truly appreciated.

Thanks!

James
2168 & 6408

[Jonathan]

Oh OK, you are correct. My glove box doesn't have a light, at all. I gues the previous owner removed it for whatever reason? It still has the switch hanging under the dash area. So at least I know where the switch wires are. lol

Here is the next question, out of the 3 wires, in the picture of my previous post, which one will hook up to the door? It's just problematic because you can't just tell me to hook up the purple one, because they're all purple. lol

One has a long black plastic connector with 2 wires coming from it. The other has a long black plastic connector with only one wire. And the other one is wrapped around the 2 other wires and has just a bare metal connector.

As always, any help is truly appreciated.

Thanks!

James
2168 & 6408

Ok, I think this will help. Here are two pictures I just took of my own car:

First picture shows the door light switch wires in the upper right (and the speaker in the lower left as well as the glovebox wires). You can see how of the two connections on that switch, one connection is a pair of black ground wires and the second connection is a purple/white striped wire. I believe in your photo, these black wires are disappearing up and out of view, but the missing purple and white wire is that one you see without a decent connector on it.

56298

In the second photo, you can see better the glovebox light bulb connections. These are the ones with the nice, black connectors on them and one of the connections has a pair of purple wires and the other connection has the single wire, but you should note it also has a white stripe on the purple too. These stripes aren't that easy to see sometimes. If you want a worse example, go and try to see the difference in the green and light green stripes that are on the full throttle microswitch connections in the engine bay. They get worse when they get faded, so luckily the ones under the dash don't see much daylight.

56299

What you should be able to do is attach the metal connector end of the single wire to the door plunger and confirm that pair of black ground wires is going to the other half of the door plunger. Then tell us what happened.

Oh, and here's the wiring diagram of the interior lighting in case you weren't having enough fun already...

56300

[DeLoreanDMC81]

So I've tried every wire so far with the doors, and have had no luck at all. So I'm really stumped on the issue. I've made sure the bulbs aren't blown. So I'm not sure what else to try, other than hooking the wires directly to the battery.

On a positive note, I figured out what was wrong with my windows! I took the door panels off and removed the window motor and this is what I found.

I got everything cleaned up and the motor works great! The gears inside the the window lift mechanism are a different story. I've done everything to clean them up but it just feels like there is just a bunch of built of gunk still in there. Anyone have any luck taking the side pieces of plastic off, to get in there to the gears?

Also, anyone know where to find one of those spiral felt/metal pieces, the part that actually raises and lowers the window? My old '86 Jeep Cherokee has something darn similar for the windows, but I just don't know what that piece is called? (I've included a picture of it as well)

Thanks everyone!

James
2168 & 6408

[DMC5180]

Well, you’ve dug into something that most of us just throw out and replace with new heavy duty actuators. I’ve never heard of any of the replacement actuators ever failing. Window lift parts aren’t generally sold separately anywhere that I know of beyond motors.


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[DeLoreanDMC81]

Hot diggity dog I finally did it, I finally figured out my door wiring issue! I was just messing around earlier with it and I just happened to hook up the correct wires and, bam, the lights came on.

I'm just super happy. It's just exciting to know that my lights now work, and that I figured out why my window wasn't working.

Slowly I'm getting this car back into shape. Now, did I ever happen to mention how much I can't stand previous owners? Especially ones that don't have a clue what they are doing or how to take care of things.

James
2168 & 6408

[DeLoreanDMC81]

Well, you’ve dug into something that most of us just throw out and replace with new heavy duty actuators. I’ve never heard of any of the replacement actuators ever failing. Window lift parts aren’t generally sold separately anywhere that I know of beyond motors.


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I guess you can go ahead and call me crazy because I went ahead and tore apart the whole window mechanism. lol

I went ahead and popped off the plastic cover and found that the main drive gear was cracked. It's funny, that tiny crack was just enough to shift the gears to where the motor couldn't turn it properly.

So I went ahead and used a Dremel to grind a few of the gears. Now everything works perfectly!

I don't know how long it will hold up before it permanently breaks, but at least I saved myself a few hundred bucks for right now. lol

[SS Spoiler]

I had a similar problem 25 years ago on
the passenger side. the window would only
move about two inches and quit. I open up
the gear motor box and found, you guessed
it, a cracked gear. Remover the gear, super
glued the crack, clamped a hose clamp to
pull it in, then carefully drilled the shaft hole
so it would slide back on and super glued it
on. Still running great......

[David T]

The window actuators were an early problem so right away vendors came up with replacements for the whole thing. Because of the effort to get at it it is probably best to just replace it with a much more robust replacement. If you are on a budget patching it up is the way to go but don't expect it to last. Baby the windows, ie, don't run it till it stops. When it is all the way open or all the way closed release the switch.