electrical restoration help

[powerline84]

486994870048702487034870548706

Ok I have begun restoring the both mouse eaten and previous owner hacked electrical compartment. I have replaced most of the stuff and cut the fuze block out and need to sort out some wiring before I put the block back in. I have a few questions that I could use some help with before I bust out electrical Diagrams.

1. I don't have a blue fan fail module, so what wires were suppose to go there? I have a fusible link with the dmc update kit but don't see what to attach it to. obviously modified by previous owner.
2. There are two red jumpers that are pictured. They are connected to 1 thick orange and black wire, and two orange and green wires. what are they for?
3. I Need some help with the 35 amp (now 40 amp) Cooling Fan Circuit Breaker and the 25 amp fan speed circuit breaker.
-When I started there was only a 35 amp cooling fan breaker and it had 4 brown wires connected to it, and there wasn't even a 25 amp fan speed breaker installed. I need help on what brown wires go to each breaker.
4. It says there is suppose to be an A/C override diode next to fuze block and I am not sure if that is there.
5. What is the empty relay block I am holding next to the door lock module supposed to be for?
6. what is the separate brown wire link with the 15 amp fuze for?
- my fuse block is missing the the number 7 fuze.
7. lastly in the right rear electrical compartment can you tell me if any of these wires are stock? They appear to me to be owner installed but I haven't traced them yet.

I know I have asked a lot of questions but I greatly appreciate any help that prevents me from spending hours on electrical diagrams.

thanks,

Jimmy

[powerline84]

48708

Here is an overall shot of were I am currently at.

[powerline84]

48709

This is what I Started with

[Bitsyncmaster]

Most of the brown wires are always at +12 volts and not fused. You are really going to need to break out the schmatic and study one thing at a time. You will probably need a volt ohm meter to trace some of the wiring.

Yes you are missing the blue fan fail socket. It's pretty common the fan fail socket pins overheat and owner tend to just remove the socket and connect the wires somehow. You can get a black replacement socket but the PO may have cut the wires to short so they may need extending with some more wire.

That blank relay socket with three wires is for the "hot start relay" which is normally not used.

You have a pretty big project, so take your time and don't try to rush the job.

[powerline84]

Most of the brown wires are always at +12 volts and not fused. You are really going to need to break out the schmatic and study one thing at a time. You will probably need a volt ohm meter to trace some of the wiring.

Yes you are missing the blue fan fail socket. It's pretty common the fan fail socket pins overheat and owner tend to just remove the socket and connect the wires somehow. You can get a black replacement socket but the PO may have cut the wires to short so they may need extending with some more wire.

That blank relay socket with three wires is for the "hot start relay" which is normally not used.

You have a pretty big project, so take your time and don't try to rush the job.

I don't intend to rush, thanks for the help . Do you have any other incite?
If I buy one of your fan fail modules can you provide a socket?

thanks,

Jimmy

[Bitsyncmaster]

I don't intend to rush, thanks for the help . Do you have any other incite?
If I buy one of your fan fail modules can you provide a socket?

thanks,

Jimmy

I have some spare sockets and pins but you would need the proper crimper. You need to pull up the relay banks and see what the PO did to those fan fail wires. If the wires are short, I guess I could attach the socket wire and you would splice to the original short wires.

With my fan fail, I recommend you remove the 40 amp breaker anyway so I include that jumper wire with the fan fail.

[powerline84]

pm'd

[powerline84]

Dave just looked up the electrical diagram for the cooling fan circuit, and it appears that those red circuit beaker jumpers that have been added are the wires from the fan fail unit. There is enough wire left there and I can add as necessary to restore the original circuit.

[powerline84]

4872148722

Looks like the previous owner installed these red fuses to bypass fan fail relay.

also I will have to confirm, but it looks like the 15 amp fuse with brown wires on each side is suppose to be the previous owners "fuse 7" fix.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I think that explains why you did not have the cooling fan circuit breaker. The PO bypassed it when he removed the fan fail socket. That is a good thing to do when your fan fail has fusing. Redundant fuses and circuit breakers just make more heat and voltage drops. The circuit breaker with the four wires is the blower breaker and I think that should be a 30 amp breaker.

[Bitsyncmaster]

You are going to need an "open barrel" crimper for the fuse terminals and a wire stripper. Following are the type I use.

https://www.amazon.com/Capri-Tools-20010-Precision-Stripper/dp/B01018CVM0/ref=lp_553390_1_13?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1485775113&sr=1-13

https://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-18920-Ratcheting-Terminal/dp/B0002STTTI/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1485775356&sr=1-3&keywords=tool+aid+crimper

I don't like to use insulated terminals since you cannot inspect the crimps after you do it. So with that crimper it also has jaws for the un-insulated barrel butt crimps I prefer, and you put heat shrink tubing on the wire before you complete the crimp. So you will need a heat gun for heat shrink tubing also.

If you solder any OEM wires, you need to clean the copper wire after you strip it. I use 220 grit wet/dry sandpaper to clean the copper.

[Jonathan]

4. It says there is suppose to be an A/C override diode next to fuze block and I am not sure if that is there.

Good description of those diodes here: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?10828-Cooling-fans-run-constantly&p=159298&viewfull=1#post159298

Electrical check valve is a good way to think of them.

It has been a while since I looked at my own (so memory might be a little fuzzy), but those A/C diodes are marked in your photo with the red arrow...

48723

[powerline84]

Awesome thanks for the help guys.

[powerline84]

I think that explains why you did not have the cooling fan circuit breaker. The PO bypassed it when he removed the fan fail socket. That is a good thing to do when your fan fail has fusing. Redundant fuses and circuit breakers just make more heat and voltage drops. The circuit breaker with the four wires is the blower breaker and I think that should be a 30 amp breaker.

48724

The issue is that dmc's relay kit shows two breakers a 35 and a 25. In their kit it gets upgraded to a 40 amp with 2 terminals and a 25 with 4 terminals. However when I started my car only had a single breaker with 4 terminals on it. That's where the confusion comes in . so now I have 4 wires with 6 possible connections and 2 breakers as opposed to 4 wires with one breaker and 4 terminals. this is the only problem I have left to solve

[powerline84]

Also can someone please post a picture of there drivers side rear upper electrical compartment stock please.

[Bitsyncmaster]

48724

The issue is that dmc's relay kit shows two breakers a 35 and a 25. In their kit it gets upgraded to a 40 amp with 2 terminals and a 25 with 4 terminals. However when I started my car only had a single breaker with 4 terminals on it. That's where the confusion comes in . so now I have 4 wires with 6 possible connections and 2 breakers as opposed to 4 wires with one breaker and 4 terminals. this is the only problem I have left to solve

You will find that two of those 6 connection (they were for the 40 amp breaker) will now be cut in the harness. The 40 amp breaker did run from the fan relay pin back into the harness to one of the breaker pins. Then the other breaker pin ran back into the harness to the fan fail pin. I unwrapped my harness to remove the wires and it was about 6 foot of wire. You can just leave the wires cut off.

I built your new fan fail socket. The 12 AWG red wire has a relay pin that you install into the fan relay socket (you pull the old pin and insert the new one). I use a large size paper clip to release the fingers that hold the pins in the socket. Each of the green wires goes to your OEM black/green (fan) wires. The purple wire will go to the OEM brown/purple wire. The black wire goes to ground. There should be a black wire the PO cut off the removed fan fail socket.

I thought the blower breaker was increased to 30 amps because some blowers do draw 25 amps on high speed.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Also can someone please post a picture of there drivers side rear upper electrical compartment stock please.

Do you have a retractable radio antenna if the drivers side rear quarter panel?

[powerline84]

Do you have a retractable radio antenna if the drivers side rear quarter panel?

no

[powerline84]

You will find that two of those 6 connection (they were for the 40 amp breaker) will now be cut in the harness. The 40 amp breaker did run from the fan relay pin back into the harness to one of the breaker pins. Then the other breaker pin ran back into the harness to the fan fail pin. I unwrapped my harness to remove the wires and it was about 6 foot of wire. You can just leave the wires cut off.

I built your new fan fail socket. The 12 AWG red wire has a relay pin that you install into the fan relay socket (you pull the old pin and insert the new one). I use a large size paper clip to release the fingers that hold the pins in the socket. Each of the green wires goes to your OEM black/green (fan) wires. The purple wire will go to the OEM brown/purple wire. The black wire goes to ground. There should be a black wire the PO cut off the removed fan fail socket.

I thought the blower breaker was increased to 30 amps because some blowers do draw 25 amps on high speed.

so I guess I need to figure out which 2 go to the 40 amp and which 2 go to the 25 amp then.

[Bitsyncmaster]

so I guess I need to figure out which 2 go to the 40 amp and which 2 go to the 25 amp then.

There should be four wires if you have the "recall" wire change done on your car. One brown +12 always feed wire. two of the brown wires go to one blower relay each. The fourth wire is the recall going to the starter relay (connects on same post as your feed wire). You can use an ohm meter to determine which wires.

[powerline84]

There should be four wires if you have the "recall" wire change done on your car. One brown +12 always feed wire. two of the brown wires go to one blower relay each. The fourth wire is the recall going to the starter relay (connects on same post as your feed wire). You can use an ohm meter to determine which wires.

so are you saying that i should only be using the 40 amp relay and the 25 amp relay is eliminated? or are you saying that I should have both relays installed. just to confirm.

[Bitsyncmaster]

so are you saying that i should only be using the 40 amp relay and the 25 amp relay is eliminated? or are you saying that I should have both relays installed. just to confirm.

I'm saying you won't be using the 40 amp cooling fan breaker. So you don't need it installed. You will need the blower breaker which has 4 wires. My blower breaker is a 30 amp.

[powerline84]

I'm saying you won't be using the 40 amp cooling fan breaker. So you don't need it installed. You will need the blower breaker which has 4 wires. My blower breaker is a 30 amp.

awesome thanks! the one they sent is only 25 amp so I guess Ill need to upgrade that one. The 40 amp is to high to use. I labelled them all and the location that they went to before i removed everything so that will be an easy fix.

[Bitsyncmaster]

awesome thanks! the one they sent is only 25 amp so I guess Ill need to upgrade that one. The 40 amp is to high to use. I labelled them all and the location that they went to before i removed everything so that will be an easy fix.

These breakers are pretty common at auto parts stores. I also changed the wire terminals to ring terminals for a better connection.

[powerline84]

48817

Got it , thanks !

[powerline84]

You will find that two of those 6 connection (they were for the 40 amp breaker) will now be cut in the harness. The 40 amp breaker did run from the fan relay pin back into the harness to one of the breaker pins. Then the other breaker pin ran back into the harness to the fan fail pin. I unwrapped my harness to remove the wires and it was about 6 foot of wire. You can just leave the wires cut off.

I built your new fan fail socket. The 12 AWG red wire has a relay pin that you install into the fan relay socket (you pull the old pin and insert the new one). I use a large size paper clip to release the fingers that hold the pins in the socket. Each of the green wires goes to your OEM black/green (fan) wires. The purple wire will go to the OEM brown/purple wire. The black wire goes to ground. There should be a black wire the PO cut off the removed fan fail socket.

I thought the blower breaker was increased to 30 amps because some blowers do draw 25 amps on high speed.

48829

Your talking about the red wire going to relay number 112 in this diaghram correct?

[Bitsyncmaster]

48829

Your talking about the red wire going to relay number 112 in this diaghram correct?

Yes I installed my red jumper wire. You need to pull the large gauge brown/orange wire from the fan relay (112) and install that red wire pin in it's place. That Brown/orange wire did go to the "40" amp breaker which looks like your PO removed so the color may have been changed.

If you have any questions, post a photo of the bottom of your relay sockets.

By the way, the fan fail socket is against the side of the bracket. Your drawing was showing a blank relay socket which I have never seen in any car.

[powerline84]

ok cool ...thanks!