Paint codes, converted to liter/gram

[Bullitt]

Hi!

My painter wants this converted to liter/gram.

Does anyone have the correct info?

(I have no idea what Abs. and Cum. mean... :))

48761

[Michael]

A: It's already in parts? Why does he need conversion?

B: nothing he shouldn't be able to do with a calculator even if it wasn't in parts.

C: Should be using base clear anyway

[Michael]

Seriously whatever amount he needs, say he needs a quart and his formula makes a gallon, just divide each number by 4 and that's going to give you pretty close to a liter.
Since it is in parts, the numbers can represent anything, oz, grams, or kilos or gallons even, so he has all the info he needs. If he is mixing up say a touch up amount you can go through all the hassle of conversion, or set your scale to grams and simply move the decimal over to the left one space. That will give you about 1/2 ounce of touch up paint.

[BladeBronson]

Abs and Cum are abbreviations for "absolute" and "cumulative". Notice how the cumulative column increases by the absolute number of each row. These units represent proportions and can be in any measurement you want.

[cpistocco]

Are you guys mixing bumper paint?
I have codes and formulas.

[powerline84]

which paint code is for the early cars and which one is for the later cars?

[Jonathan]

1 gallon = 3.785 litres
1 lb = 453.59 grams (or more commonly, 1 kilogram = 2.2 pounds)

To convert from lb/gal to g/litre, you multiply by 453.59 and divide by 3.785, or simply multiply by 119.84.

For example, 2.9 lb/gal x 119.84 = 347.5 grams/litre

You did specifically ask for litres/gram in your thread title though, so if that is what you do want, then take 1 over the answer from above to give you the inverse, i.e. 1/347.5 = 0.002878. Which doesn't make for much of a useful number while in litres/gram, so multiply by 1,000 to get it into litres/kilogram or 2.878 in this case.

Or maybe someone could just ask the new President to finally switch over to the metric system like the rest of the planet and we'd all be good, right?

[cpistocco]

My codes are for Oct 81 builds

[Bullitt]

Abs and Cum are abbreviations for "absolute" and "cumulative". Notice how the cumulative column increases by the absolute number of each row. These units represent proportions and can be in any measurement you want.

I noticed that afterwards!

[Bullitt]

Looks like I have been inhaling paint fumes..... I meant paint codes, not panit codes.... Hehe.
Talked with Ed, and he suggested Toyota warm grey nr 165 with satin clear coat for early style.

I noticed mine had been repainted as previous owners just masked over the grille. Explains why mine was pretty bright blue ish.
We will make som samples with the toyota color and compare, or try to read the color behind the grille to see.
48770

[Michael]

Post #8 of this thread has the fascia colors in DBC (modern urethane and base/clear)

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?14607-Repaint-my-Bumpers&highlight=Paint+codes

[Bullitt]

Post #8 of this thread has the fascia colors in DBC (modern urethane and base/clear)

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?14607-Repaint-my-Bumpers&highlight=Paint+codes

Thanks!

:)

[cpistocco]

Thanks!

:)

Don't forget to add flattening agent to clear coat! :)

[cpistocco]

Don't forget to add flattening agent to clear coat! :)

Hello
For Oct 1981 build,
I recommend 2011 jeep/ Chrysler code Pdm / cdm "mineral grey" or "tungsten" basecoat/clearcoat.
If you go to an autobody supply shop who sell DuPont, their part num is 893899.Don't forget Clearcoat, clearcoat reducer, Basecoat reducer , activator, and a clear coat flattening agent. One pint of basecoat should be enough. One pint of clearcoat too (maybe a quart).

[cpistocco]

Hello
For Oct 1981 build,
I recommend 2011 jeep/ Chrysler code Pdm / cdm "mineral grey" or "tungsten" basecoat/clearcoat.
If you go to an autobody supply shop who sell DuPont, their part num is 893899.Don't forget Clearcoat, clearcoat reducer, Basecoat reducer , activator, and a clear coat flattening agent. One pint of basecoat should be enough. One pint of clearcoat too (maybe a quart).
And one last item to add to clearcoat.....flex agent! ( I forgot)
again...this is for bumper covers / fascias of Oct 1981 build.

[Drive Stainless]

PDM is definitely not the OEM color. Too blue.

OEM:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170204/b9d06677ff81f79cb823192d29a14ffb.jpg
PDM:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170204/facee2ea28bb1cc03af5d74caca4b8af.jpg

Same garage, same angle, same lighting.

[cpistocco]

PDM is definitely not the OEM color. Too blue.

OEM:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170204/b9d06677ff81f79cb823192d29a14ffb.jpg
PDM:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170204/facee2ea28bb1cc03af5d74caca4b8af.jpg

Same garage, same angle, same lighting.

Wow....I see it. How about alpha romeo code 651a...variant ge? (grigio Antares grey)

[cpistocco]

Wow....I see it. How about alpha romeo code 651a...variant ge? (grigio Antares grey)

Hi Matt
Is that your car with two different paint jobs? If so, what is the paint code for the better match?
Thanks
Charlie

[Drive Stainless]

Hi Matt
Is that your car with two different paint jobs? If so, what is the paint code for the better match?
Thanks
Charlie

That's my car with OEM paint, a horrible re-paint, and then a great re-paint after that:

48848

The last paint shown above is slightly lighter than OEM, but it is closer to the neutral color of the stainless. It is BASF 94877 and has a silver flake in it. I don't think the OEM paint had a silver flake?

[cpistocco]

That's my car with OEM paint, a horrible re-paint, and then a great re-paint after that:

48848

The last paint shown above is slightly lighter than OEM, but it is closer to the neutral color of the stainless. It is BASF 94877 and has a silver flake in it. I don't think the OEM paint had a silver flake?

My gut is telling me that there may have been some FINE metallic in the original formula.
Do you know what the BASF 94877 crosses over to? Make, model, year?
It looks great.

[Drive Stainless]

My gut is telling me that there may have been some FINE metallic in the original formula.
Do you know what the BASF 94877 crosses over to? Make, model, year?
It looks great.

If you call BASF's automotive paint hotline, you can speak to Mimi and she will tell you that the 94877 is what they have listed for the '81 DeLorean. As I've said, I don't think this is 100% accurate, and I don't know their source of this correspondence. I like the color, though.

Another pic of the 94877 under different lighting:

48855

[cpistocco]

If you call BASF's automotive paint hotline, you can speak to Mimi and she will tell you that the 94877 is what they have listed for the '81 DeLorean. As I've said, I don't think this is 100% accurate, and I don't know their source of this correspondence. I like the color, though.

Another pic of the 94877 under different lighting:

48855

I called BASF today. They told me that it was a "fleet color". Interestingly, PPG also calls the original delorean grey a "fleet color". I rarely hear that in my day to day dealings in autobody.

[Michael]

I called BASF today. They told me that it was a "fleet color". Interestingly, PPG also calls the original delorean grey a "fleet color". I rarely hear that in my day to day dealings in autobody.

Why are you guys still harping on this and guessing on master tints? I posted not only the single stage color formula from PPG but the same color in Base/clear using a PPG camera in my car and their tints. You have everything you need.

[cpistocco]

Why are you guys still harping on this and guessing on master tints? I posted not only the single stage color formula from PPG but the same color in Base/clear using a PPG camera in my car and their tints. You have everything you need.

Hi Michael
Yes.... I know that you already invented that wheel. :) ( ppg 33584 / 925369) basecoat/ clearcoat.
BUT here is where I am coming from- I am trying to get a Dupont Code from all of this. I only use the DuPont chroma system. Everything in my shop is set up for DuPont. And I am familiar with how to use it.
Let me go one step further. I need to strip my fascias (paint is cracked and peeling). Therefore, I will need to put down a coat of primer/sealer before basecoat and clearcoat. The sealer (which is DuPont chroma premier sealer mixed with flex agent, activator and reducer) is compatible with only DuPont basecoasts. (so in other words, I am stuck with DuPont)
At the end of the day, I will try to find a clean, un-sun-damaged part of the bottom of the front fascia and put a camera on it. I will then share the DuPont code with the rest of the community.
I hope that this explains the method in my madness. :)

[Michael]

Hi Michael
Yes.... I know that you already invented that wheel. :) ( ppg 33584 / 925369) basecoat/ clearcoat.
BUT here is where I am coming from- I am trying to get a Dupont Code from all of this. I only use the DuPont chroma system. Everything in my shop is set up for DuPont. And I am familiar with how to use it.
Let me go one step further. I need to strip my fascias (paint is cracked and peeling). Therefore, I will need to put down a coat of primer/sealer before basecoat and clearcoat. The sealer (which is DuPont chroma premier sealer mixed with flex agent, activator and reducer) is compatible with only DuPont basecoasts. (so in other words, I am stuck with DuPont)
At the end of the day, I will try to find a clean, un-sun-damaged part of the bottom of the front fascia and put a camera on it. I will then share the DuPont code with the rest of the community.
I hope that this explains the method in my madness. :)
My apologies but I wasn't aware you needed help. I thought it was Bullitt (the op) who needed help nor was I aware it had to be Dupont only since Bullitt posted the PPG formula to begin with.

[David T]

My apologies but I wasn't aware you needed help. I thought it was Bullitt (the op) who needed help nor was I aware it had to be Dupont only since Bullitt posted the PPG formula to begin with.

Since you are "married" to the DuPont system, take the PPG formulae, call Dupont and ask them what their conversion is. They should be able to come up with a comparable recipe in DuPont product. A camera can only reproduce the chroma, it cannot decipher the special agents like metal flakes, pearl, or other additives. Then shoot a test piece to see how it looks. Even with all of today's technology it doesn't always come out the way you want. Then there is technique. How it is applied can also affect how it looks. For example you could do an orange peel base coat and smooth it out with the clearcoat to get certain effects. Using an electrostatic gun orients all of the flakes the same way where an ordinary spray gun won't do that. It can take some experimentation to get it the way you want if you are trying to replicate the same look, especially if you use a different system.

[Michael]

A camera can only reproduce the chroma, it cannot decipher the special agents like metal flakes, pearl, or other additives.

Oh but it can indeed. Trust me on that from someone 20 yrs in the business.


For example you could do an orange peel base coat and smooth it out with the clearcoat to get certain effects.

Not really, Base is VERY thin and is very hard to "orange peel", even if you were able to shoot it tihck enough to give a rough texture without affecting the flop, the clear coat would also not "smooth it out" unless you went back and wetsanded and buffed it smooth. Flattening agent normally produces a smooth "un orange peeled" finish but what you are suggesting is very unorthodox.

As far as using a turbine, traditonal air, HVLP, etc., the metal flakes are going to do what they do. They may go on a different way but the carrier and the reduction ratio pretty much defines how the metallic settles once it hits the surface and flashes (again, flash time is dependant on your carrier and reduction ratio, and of course the basics like temp and paint).

[cpistocco]

My apologies but I wasn't aware you needed help. I thought it was Bullitt (the op) who needed help nor was I aware it had to be Dupont only since Bullitt posted the PPG formula to begin with.

No apologies.... We are all trying to help each other ! :)

[cpistocco]

Since you are "married" to the DuPont system, take the PPG formulae, call Dupont and ask them what their conversion is. They should be able to come up with a comparable recipe in DuPont product. A camera can only reproduce the chroma, it cannot decipher the special agents like metal flakes, pearl, or other additives. Then shoot a test piece to see how it looks. Even with all of today's technology it doesn't always come out the way you want. Then there is technique. How it is applied can also affect how it looks. For example you could do an orange peel base coat and smooth it out with the clearcoat to get certain effects. Using an electrostatic gun orients all of the flakes the same way where an ordinary spray gun won't do that. It can take some experimentation to get it the way you want if you are trying to replicate the same look, especially if you use a different system.

Thanks David.
Believe me when I tell you- Dupont (xalta) cannot convert the formula. :( Man have I tried....

[Boxbot]

Sorry to bump an old thread, but I cannot figure out the "correct" color for my early model facias even after going through a bunch of treads. This thread if I'm reading it correctly is for the October '81 and after lighter, matte finish.

Can someone confirm:
1. My VIN would have had a darker glossy finish; and if so
2. What code can I give to the paint shop?


I can't go by what's currently on the car because they were painted previously (badly). James at DCMH posted these old PPG codes, but it's Greek to me. Is the earlier VIN code on p. 1 and the later lighter, matte code on p. 2?

Thanks!

[DMC-81]

Sorry to bump an old thread, but I cannot figure out the "correct" color for my early model facias even after going through a bunch of treads. This thread if I'm reading it correctly is for the October '81 and after lighter, matte finish.

Can someone confirm:
1. My VIN would have had a darker glossy finish; and if so
2. What code can I give to the paint shop?


I can't go by what's currently on the car because they were painted previously (badly). James at DCMH posted these old PPG codes, but it's Greek to me. Is the earlier VIN code on p. 1 and the later lighter, matte code on p. 2?

Thanks!

My understanding from talking to James Espey when I needed the correct early paint code is that the first page is a water based formula (i.e. EHP - Envirobase High Performance), and the second page is the oil based formula. You can see the difference in the "VOC less water" section. I used the MSDS # DBU1 (i.e. Deltron Basecoat) on the second page with a gloss finish when I re-painted my fascias in 2015, as the original method was oil based. It turned out well:

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=47390&d=1479172701

Apparently the Deltron DBU product has been discontinued from PPG in 2017 (announcement HERE (https://us.ppgrefinish.com/PPG-Refinish/Notifications-Result/2017/Deltron-Basecoat-DBU-DIU-Announcement#) ) so your paint supplier will have to match/ convert it to the paint system they use.

[Boxbot]

Thanks for your help! Here is the photo of the paint information from the member who based it off your car.

I'll post some photos when I get it back from the shop!

64908

[Boxbot]

I appear to have the same problem that others have mentioned. My painter needs a conversion to DuPont code for the early style bumpers and I don't see it anywhere. Can anyone help?