Key broke off in ignition!

[txdmc]

The very end of my key broke off in my ignition! Tried to fish it out...... yea that didn't work...... WHAT ARE MY OPTIONS!

[Michael]

You can probably use the remainder to at least turn the tumbler to get you home/by. In order o fix, you will have to order a new key and remove and disassemble the tumbler to remove the broken part of the key.(you might be able to knock it out once the tumbler is in your hand but doubtful). Anyway be very careful when pulling the tumbler out once you remove the retaining pin, and pull the sleeve away it will want to fly apart.

It's been a long time since I had mine apart so I may be foggy on the whole process.

[txdmc]

It was in my garage thank god


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[David T]

It was in my garage thank god


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You have 2 options. If you can get your hands on a key extractor you can usually hook the broken piece out quickly. Or you remove the cylinder and take it to a locksmith and have him extract it. Get some good blanks and have some new keys made up. The code is usually written on the driver's side door under the headliner. If you call DMCH with that code they can cut a new key for you. They may also want you to photocopy an old key so they can make sure the code is correct.

[txdmc]

I have the key code and will probably do that. Looks like a few local places around Dallas have key extractor tool sets. What's the possibility of getting a new key tumbler?


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[Michael]

. What's the possibility of getting a new key tumbler?


About the same as me hooking up with Jennifer Anniston.

Actually you may find a Volvo tumbler that can work. A competent locksmith should be able to fix any issues that you have..if I could fix mine then pretty much anyone can.

[Elvis]

Had the same problem some years ago, 3 hours from home.

fixed it myself.

had to get out the safety screws and afterwards get new ones.

Lock can be taken apart.

But first - ask a locksmith or Amazon to get a tool to pull it out.

[dn010]

Happened to me as well long ago. I was able to put the remainder of the key in the ignition and still turn it to start the car. I took the tumbler apart to get the broken portion out; my ignition lock hasn't been quite right since then...

[Andrew]

I had the same problem happen with 4194 back in 2001. I had a locksmith come to the house. He removed the lock cylinder via the two retaining bolts, disassembled the tumbler and removed the broken chunk of key and reassembled the unit. The entire process took less than an hour. If you don't have a spare, you can save the broken pieces and bring them with a blank to a locksmith who should be able to cut you a new one.

[DavidProehl]

This is a good reminder for those that haven't yet to check the health of their ignition keys. I bought a DMC logoed repro key that was cut using the key code and after about 2 years of use it was clearly starting to bend at the base from twisting on the ignition. I stopped using it and copied my bent repro onto a generic blank key. My ignition key doesn't look as nice now without the DMC logo, but I'm also not worried about it breaking off.

I thought I was an isolated incident until this thread!

[dn010]

Funny thing, the one that broke for me was also a DMC repro key...


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[txdmc]

So I got the tumbler disassembled and got the broken key chunk out. I cleaned with wd-40 the did some graphite lock spray before reassembly. My car obviously has been re keyed at some point because the cylinder was being held in with a pin. So I put a screw its place upon reassembly, that was also a problem because the cylinder was moving inside the housing. Anyways now the car loves my old Volvo key that came with the car and hates the newer cut keys that also came with the car. The whole mechanism works better in general.

I read something about a Range Rover ignition assembly working as well


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[David T]

I was not aware that the blanks DMCH are using were that flimsy. They used to have nice, strong, nickel keys. Every owner should look at his keys and if you see any signs of fatigue get another key BEFORE it breaks. It also depends on how the key is cut. If you have a deep cut near the head it is weak there and will tend to break easier. It can't hurt to lubricate your locks too. You should only use powdered graphite. Anything else will be sticky and hold dirt and moisture. If you are forcing your locks something is wrong and should be fixed before something breaks or you get locked out. If your cylinder has been rekeyed you should try to get the new code read and make a record of it somewhere and put it on the door above the headliner. By now everyone should go over to the 1 key system for reliability and service. If you are not happy with DMCH there is also Jesser Locks who can help. They are not cheap but neither is DMCH. Do not use aluminum blanks, they wear WAY too fast. In fact, just putting them in your pocket and tumbling with other keys will wear them. Getting a remote unlock function hooked up to the doors will also save a lot of wear on the keys. Using a worn key also wears the locks faster. There were 2 Service Bulletins on locks. Check out ST-02-6/81 and ST-31-12/81.

[Andrew]

Ironically, my broken key was also a DMCH reproduction. It could not have been more than 3 years old when it broke. I have been using the old Volvo blank that came with the car ever since! Ever since that incident, I have been very careful when I insert and remove the key. I also avoid having a lot of keys on my keychain to reduce stress on the key / ignition.

For anyone who is wondering, a Rover SD1 lock cylinder will bolt up to the DeLorean. The part number is CRC 3914; however, it appears to be NLA. Back in 2014, I verified the cross reference with 5052. The Rover ignition switch uses a different plug; thus, to make it work one must either swap the ignition switch or swap the plug. I opted to swap the ignition switch which is held into the lock cylinder with a tiny Phillip's set screw. With shipping from the UK, the Rover lock cylinder set me back just over $100 US.

Since the Rover unit may be NLA, do all you can to preserve your stock lock cylinder!

[Jonathan]

So I got the tumbler disassembled and got the broken key chunk out. I cleaned with wd-40 the did some graphite lock spray before reassembly. My car obviously has been re keyed at some point because the cylinder was being held in with a pin. So I put a screw its place upon reassembly, that was also a problem because the cylinder was moving inside the housing. Anyways now the car loves my old Volvo key that came with the car and hates the newer cut keys that also came with the car. The whole mechanism works better in general.

I read something about a Range Rover ignition assembly working as well


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Just a word of caution regarding the cylinder being held in with a screw or pin. My car had work done on the tumbler before I got it and unbeknownst to me, was being held in place with a screw. It took 6 years to finally fall out, but when it did, and the cylinder was lying in my lap, the steering column interlock mechanism engaged. Seems without the cylinder physically in place in the housing, the deadbolt will extend into the steering column and lock out movement. This happened to me thankfully while in my garage and with the car parked. I'd hate to have found this out while the car was in motion and I suddenly couldn't turn the steering wheel.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zRVIZO9m1RE

[Andrew]

While it looks like the Rover SD1 CRC 3914 ignition is NLA, in my research there appears to be a number of Morgan and Land Rover ignitions that MAY work. However, aside from similar general appearances, I can't confirm that those would actually work on the DeLorean. There are a number of possibilities that can be found on Ebay EU.

In case I hadn't mentioned it before, the Rover ignition uses a different blank. However, on the bright side, I won't be breaking off a reproduction DMC key in that ignition ;-)

[Chris 16409]

Here's what DeLorean Europe offers. Kinda spendy, but it's you'll know it works:

http://www.delorean.eu/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=59001

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Ironically, my broken key was also a DMCH reproduction. It could not have been more than 3 years old when it broke. I have been using the old Volvo blank that came with the car ever since! Ever since that incident, I have been very careful when I insert and remove the key. I also avoid having a lot of keys on my keychain to reduce stress on the key / ignition.

For anyone who is wondering, a Rover SD1 lock cylinder will bolt up to the DeLorean. The part number is CRC 3914; however, it appears to be NLA. Back in 2014, I verified the cross reference with 5052. The Rover ignition switch uses a different plug; thus, to make it work one must either swap the ignition switch or swap the plug. I opted to swap the ignition switch which is held into the lock cylinder with a tiny Phillip's set screw. With shipping from the UK, the Rover lock cylinder set me back just over $100 US.

Since the Rover unit may be NLA, do all you can to preserve your stock lock cylinder!
We have our own reproduction keys we've been selling for almost 20 years and I've never heard of one breaking. They are nickel plated brass with the DMC molded head and are very easy on the lock internals unlike many of the NOS keys which are steel. If you're using a steel key you should switch to brass for increased cylinder and tumbler longevity. If your keys cut edges are not brass colored then your key is steel and should be retired. NOS locks are extremely rare. And yes The Rover ignition lock is NLA according to my source.
Rob