Radiator fan replacement help

[mr_maxime]

I'm changing out the fans with the DPI ones and I'm trying to remove only the radiator shroud. I've already taken the anti roll bar brackets off since I'm doing the recall kit as well. I was taking this bracket off for access but now it looks like the holds the radiator up.

49444

[Josh]

It will be fine, take the brackets off the hoses will hold the radiator up. Just go for it!

[mr_maxime]

I believe I may have screwed up. I didn't want to bleed the radiator and in loosening this bolt I started seeing coolant leaking.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20170311_150200_zpszlcqhhoj.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20170311_150200_zpszlcqhhoj.jpg.html)

[mr_maxime]

I thought I'd have enough flex in the hose but now I'm worried I cracked the radiator

[Soundkillr]

You may have jarred the end tank loose. When done pressure test for a leak. In rare cases you can cause a small leak that goes away after expansion and won't come back. If your luck is like mine, you will have to replace the radiator...

[Josh]

Not a terrible idea to replace a stock radiator. It will let you down sooner or later.
Id put my vote in as well for tweaking the end tank causing the leak.

[David T]

Not a terrible idea to replace a stock radiator. It will let you down sooner or later.
Id put my vote in as well for tweaking the end tank causing the leak.

If that is the original radiator with the plastic tanks just replace it, it is FAR past it's useful life. The hoses too.

[DL4567]

I believe I may have screwed up. I didn't want to bleed the radiator and in loosening this bolt I started seeing coolant leaking.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20170311_150200_zpszlcqhhoj.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20170311_150200_zpszlcqhhoj.jpg.html)

Hey dude!

I did the same job 6 months ago, and the EXACT SAME thing happened to me. That one stupid bolt is behind that pipe, which you have to bend just a little bit beyond it's flex zone to get the bolt out. Totally pissed me off, the stupidity of that pipe and bolt being where they are is beyond me. My radiator started dripping at that corner when flexing the pipe, but stopped when letting go of the pipe and relaxing it. I was all worried about it, thinking I ruined the radiator, but when all was said and done, the radiator was ok.

Go to home depot and buy a shorter bolt of the exact same thread size, and use that to put back in. That way you won't have to stress the pipe (as much) again. Give the "teeth" around the radiator end cap a squeeze afterwards to make sure it's tight, and chances are it won't leak.

[mr_maxime]

I tightened it back up immediately and it hasn't leaked from what I can tell. I might as well try to go ahead without changing the radiator for now. I mean if it's already damaged I don't have much to lose. I just really don't want to buy a radiator after that expensive exhaust job I had done.

[DL4567]

I tightened it back up immediately and it hasn't leaked from what I can tell. I might as well try to go ahead without changing the radiator for now. I mean if it's already damaged I don't have much to lose. I just really don't want to buy a radiator after that expensive exhaust job I had done.

Yep, a radiator is way too expensive to replace without being sure it needs it. I cold pressure tested my system at 15 psi and there wasn't a single drip from that corner during or afterwards. Surprisingly, during the test it dripped from my water pump, which it never does when actually running the car.

[mr_maxime]

Well shit. I turned it more and it gushed out fluid. It's still dripping even after taking the bolt off. Looks like i definitely need a new one now.

[Josh]

Since you are in the market now, consider the dmceu aluminum rad. It is a very nice unit, very well built. With an aluminum rad and your new cooling fans overheating will not be a concern. It dropped my cruising temps roughly 15F.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Since you are in the market now, consider the dmceu aluminum rad. It is a very nice unit, very well built. With an aluminum rad and your new cooling fans overheating will not be a concern. It dropped my cruising temps roughly 15F.

+1
I have the EU unit and it really does not cost more if you buy it when the currency conversion is good for us.

[mr_maxime]

It's what I'm going to go with. I was offered one shortly after posting this thread and it's cheaper than the alternatives right now.

[Nicholas R]

It's what I'm going to go with. I was offered one shortly after posting this thread and it's cheaper than the alternatives right now.

It's also better than the alternatives (IMO). I wouldn't trust any other radiator to adequately cool my engine. The difference in quality and performance is immediately clear.

[Bill6298]

Since you are in the market now, consider the dmceu aluminum rad. It is a very nice unit, very well built. With an aluminum rad and your new cooling fans overheating will not be a concern. It dropped my cruising temps roughly 15F.

What is the difference between the EU radiator and other aluminum options out there? I have not heard of the EU option before and am curious because I have the original in my car. Thanks.

[Josh]

What is the difference between the EU radiator and other aluminum options out there? I have not heard of the EU option before and am curious because I have the original in my car. Thanks.

At this moment, the DMCEU rad is the only aluminum option available (AFAIK). I remember there was a thread somewhere comparing the different rads with dimensions. Worth a search.

[Mark D]

At this moment, the DMCEU rad is the only aluminum option available (AFAIK). I remember there was a thread somewhere comparing the different rads with dimensions. Worth a search.

Is DMCH no longer offering their aluminum radiator? I installed one of those on my car about 3 years ago and aside from a little bit of clearance grinding on the shroud it was a perfect swap. Or is that just the same one from DMCEU that they are reselling?

[FABombjoy]

The only change I would make is to have Ed check the "taxes will be paid by shipper" when sending to the US.

Taxes will never be charged to him because nothing this small ever gets a duty. $800 is the threshold but it's still uncommon for individuals to be charged.

Sometimes if Fedex sees that taxes are to be paid by addressee, they will pay a duty on your behalf and then charge a fee for paying it. It's like a $3 duty plus a $15 fee or some such nonsense. They will drop the charge if you call and argue about it, which is what makes the whole thing super sketchy. This happened to someone else and I thought they were pulling my leg until it happened to me.

Regardless it's totally worth any minor hassle as it's a great product.

[Bitsyncmaster]

The only change I would make is to have Ed check the "taxes will be paid by shipper" when sending to the US.

Taxes will never be charged to him because nothing this small ever gets a duty. $800 is the threshold but it's still uncommon for individuals to be charged.

Sometimes if Fedex sees that taxes are to be paid by addressee, they will pay a duty on your behalf and then charge a fee for paying it. It's like a $3 duty plus a $15 fee or some such nonsense. They will drop the charge if you call and argue about it, which is what makes the whole thing super sketchy. This happened to someone else and I thought they were pulling my leg until it happened to me.

Regardless it's totally worth any minor hassle as it's a great product.

I don't remember how mine was shipped (about 4 years ago) but there was no fees due when received.

Edit: Found my receipt. Total price was 255,88 EUR. That was 07/16/2012

[David T]

Or you can get a copper and brass one from PJ Grady. The advantage to that one is it can be repaired or recored in the future as opposed to an aluminum one which is basically disposable.

[mr_maxime]

I already ordered a new dmceu unit and the 2 hoses that connect to the radiator. I simply cut those off and drained from there. It's kind of really shitty that if you have to do a front end recall you might as well get a new radiator too. I knew it was a good idea while I was in there, but didn't think it'd be an absolute necessity.

[Nicholas R]

It's kind of really shitty that if you have to do a front end recall you might as well get a new radiator too. I knew it was a good idea while I was in there, but didn't think it'd be an absolute necessity.

I think it's only when you're doing the front end recall with a 35 year old original radiator. :wink:

Plus, if it failed with that little tweak, that radiator was already on it's way out. Better that you had the issue now than it blowing seals while doing 70mph on the highway.

[Nate88]

Is DMCH no longer offering their aluminum radiator? I installed one of those on my car about 3 years ago and aside from a little bit of clearance grinding on the shroud it was a perfect swap. Or is that just the same one from DMCEU that they are reselling?

I'm doing a complete cooling system upgrade, new cooling fans from Northwest, new radiator, and stainless bottle (all of which are original). The hoses were replaced with silicone by PO, so don't have to worry about those. I was planning on going with DMCH's radiator and they show that they offer one and in stock: http://store.delorean.com/p-6273-radiator.aspx. It is kinda pricey. I like that it has a built in drain which just by looking at the picture the DMCEU doesn't appear to have one.

Is one better than the other, or are they pretty much the same and it is personal preference?

[Mark D]

I'm not sure how the DMC EU and DMCH aluminum radiators compare from a performance standpoint.

I wasn't even sure if they were even different until I did a little more checking and it does appear they are not the same unit. I'd be interested to know which is better, but I think either is a good choice compared to a failing stock radiator.

[mr_maxime]

Plus, if it failed with that little tweak, that radiator was already on it's way out. Better that you had the issue now than it blowing seals while doing 70mph on the highway.

That's a very good point. I think my accords radiator separated in the same "area" where the plastic connects to the metal. That was a *much* easier and cheaper replacement though lol

[Ratrace427]

If you take the ac condenser out the lower line may take the threads with it. It's up to you on whether you want the risk. I think getting the stack out is much easier but the condenser will probably need replaced or repaired if you remove the line. I have taken the line off two cars and both failed. Corrosion....

Sent from my SM-G920R4 using Tapatalk

[mr_maxime]

I read another thread where Dave from dmcmw said to rotate the whole assembly sideways and remove radiator from the condenser. I'm going to do my best to not mess with the AC since that is working, minus a pulley.