Side marker lamp broke in socket - now what?

[jawn101]

Hey all. Was just completing my LED conversion with the side marker lamps, and my left front one was rusted in the socket due to a shot gasket (long since replaced). I tried to remove it by hand with no success, so shot a bit of liquid wrench in around it to try and loosen it for a proper cleaning and corrosion removal. That may have been a mistake, because it caused my hand to slip when I tried again and I busted the bulb. So now I have a pretty gnarly bulb base corroded hard into the socket. The rest of the harness is perfectly fine, so I don't want to replace the whole thing. I see Houston has replacement sockets, so presumably I could cut back the sheath and solder in a new socket pretty easily, but is there another, quicker thing I can try? I'm worried about turning on the lights as I don't want to cause a short with this messed up bulb, and with the days getting shorter that will really limit my driving until I get this worked out.

[jmpdmc]

Hello,

I replaced 3 of my 4 side marker light sockets due to corrosion several years ago. I used this product from Radio Shack: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062366 I used clear caulking to affix the threaded end to the lamp part of the car so then the new socket can be screwed into the lamp housing to create one piece with lamp and socket together. It has worked great for at least 6 years now and is cheaper and sturdier than stock. Worth a try instead of waiting for the stock sockets.


Jeff

[jawn101]

An hour's worth of penetrating oil, picking and scraping and wiggling the bulb base with some needlenose finally got it out. Then I cleaned the corrosion from inside the socket with a mild abrasive cone on my dremel and it seems to be working properly again. Now the problem is that I discovered my last amber LED has a defective base! :banghead:

Guess I have to wait to finish this job anyway, but at least for now I have a regular bulb back in the socket and working without any danger of shorts.

[content22207]

Our side marker lights use a common size socket, available at pretty much any parts house (I'm using NAPA/Echlin #LS6225). You may find that a replacement socket is designed to be grounded through a metal bodied car (only one positive wire), in which case you can simply sandwich a ground wire between the bulb and the socket.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[jawn101]

Our side marker lights use a common size socket, available at pretty much any parts house (I'm using NAPA/Echlin #LS6225). You may find that a replacement socket is designed to be grounded through a metal bodied car (only one positive wire), in which case you can simply sandwich a ground wire between the bulb and the socket.

Bill Robertson
#5939

Oh, thanks Bill! Maybe that's what I'll do anyway, if it's a common part. Does the replacement socket have the same sort of "fingers" that hold it into the lens assembly?

[content22207]

Of course. NAPA's are shaped a little bit differently (long pieces of metal that bend back upon themselves), but it's a standard design. Old fashioned trucks and buses are full of them.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[TTait]

+1

I picked one up a few years ago at Pep boys for a few bucks.

If you need to get a base out of a socket in the future, try using a potato or carrot - you can jam that onto the base, push and turn etc without hurting yourself.

If you have the other LEDs installed, go ahead and make sure they are bright enough for your liking - I bought a set and then went back to incandescents which were much brighter.

Also be advise that if you want to do the mod that has the side markers blink with the turn signals, I think you have to have incandescents installed.

[jawn101]

+1

I picked one up a few years ago at Pep boys for a few bucks.

If you need to get a base out of a socket in the future, try using a potato or carrot - you can jam that onto the base, push and turn etc without hurting yourself.

If you have the other LEDs installed, go ahead and make sure they are bright enough for your liking - I bought a set and then went back to incandescents which were much brighter.

Also be advise that if you want to do the mod that has the side markers blink with the turn signals, I think you have to have incandescents installed.

The potato thing is an old trick which I knew about, but didn't know how i'd do it given the need to keep the 'fingers' intact. The carrot is a good idea, would have helped a lot! The corrosion was still pretty bad - I ended up having to crush the base where the pins held the bayonet in so I could lever the bulb out. I don't think even a carrot would have helped with this one, considering how stuck it was.

I did the other markers and did notice that they seemed a bit dimmer than the incandescents. That was weird to me since the dash LEDs were so much brighter. But it's still broad daylight here so I decided to reserve judgement until this evening on brightness. And now I have 3 LED and 1 incandescent to compare to :) I'm gonna pretend I planned it that way.

[DMC5180]

LED's don't work well at fill lighting and are very directional. Ideally the best LED design for this application would be one that has 3 SMD's pointing like this <^> to fill the lens and reflector area.

[jawn101]

LED's don't work well at fill lighting and are very directional. Ideally the best LED design for this application would be one that has 3 SMD's pointing like this <^> to fill the lens and reflector area.

What I originally got were the BA9SF-W-12V from superbright - they were a frosted dome that produced a wide viewing angle. But, they weren't bright enough, and the white bulb behind the red/amber reflector looked very washed out. I replaced them just today with the BA9S-R-90-12V and BA9S-A-90-12V and the result is very good. 90 degrees off center produces a very nice fill in the flat reflectors and the colored bulbs produce a very pure color effect.

[DMC5180]

Can you post a link to them? Also could you post photo of the results (before [Reg bulb) and after [LED]) if possible.

Thanks

[Bitsyncmaster]

LED's don't work well at fill lighting and are very directional. Ideally the best LED design for this application would be one that has 3 SMD's pointing like this <^> to fill the lens and reflector area.

Do yours even fill the refector with incandescent bulbs? Mine never did so I installed 4 LEDs just pointing outs.

[content22207]

4852

I do use bigger bulbs than OEM spec (same size school buses use for their marker lights).

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Bitsyncmaster]

4852

I do use bigger bulbs than OEM spec (same size school buses use for their marker lights).

Bill Robertson
#5939

I thought we were talking about the side lights?

[content22207]

What do you think that is glowing red on the passenger quarter panel? (The World's Cheapest Digital Camera picked it up better than the driver's side).

I can't turn on my side lights without illuminating the tail lights too....

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Bitsyncmaster]

What do you think that is glowing red on the passenger quarter panel? (The World's Cheapest Digital Camera picked it up better than the driver's side).

I can't turn on my side lights without illuminating the tail lights too....

Bill Robertson
#5939

Can you show if the reflector is illuminated (side shot). Don't do it in total darkness because the photo gets overexposed.

[content22207]

Do you mean does the entire rectangular fixture illuminate? Of course not. There probably is some reflection close to the bulb, but that is visually overpowered by illumination from the bulb itself. The reflectors are for the benefits of other drivers' headlights.

The biggest complaint with LED's in the sidelights seems to be that they are not visible from the rear, or even part way around the car. You can't see them unless you look at the car directly from the side. That picture was taken through the reflector, from the rear. Incandescent bulbs shine light in all directions. An LED in that same socket would only shine light perpendicular to the quarter panel (sidelight would be dark when viewed from the rear).

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Bitsyncmaster]

I will have to look at mine from the rear. But I think you only need to see them from the side to perform the intended function.

[content22207]

There is no diffuser, and the housing does not have a concave reflector, so you will likely see very focused points of light. I think that's the look some owners don't want.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[jawn101]

Can you post a link to them? Also could you post photo of the results (before [Reg bulb) and after [LED]) if possible.

Thanks

Link: http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2Fba9s_wide.htm#photos

I got the 12VDC, Red/Amber, 90degree models.


Can you show if the reflector is illuminated (side shot). Don't do it in total darkness because the photo gets overexposed.

Pics:
4864
Side shot with LED, red
4863
Rear-ish shot with LED
4861
This one is still incandescent
4862
Front marker with LED. The pic unfortunately doesn't do it justice as that side is against my garage wall and I had limited space to compose the shot. They look much more similar than this pic would imply, but the LED is definitely dimmer by a bit. I have been considering trying the BA9S-R4-90-12V and BA9S-A4-90-12V to get some more power.

Also, Dave is right - the side markers are all but invisible from the rear, but not due to the bulb used. The shape of the body blocks the majority of the indicator when viewed from directly aft, particularly the front ones; they are almost entirely obscured by the fender flares.

[aludden]

I just got the BA9s. The red ones installed fine, but the amber ones will not go in the socket. The little side dimple is a little higher than the one from the incandescents, and so it doesn't go deep enough to be able to turn. Have you had that problem?

The sockets look like they need replacing anyway, so I may do that. One more thing!

Alex

[ecbow]

I need to replace the whole bayonet with a pigtailed version. I had the same problem as in this post but I can't find a ba9 size base that will fit back in the marker light. Any help or links are greatly appreciated.
Eric

[Bitsyncmaster]

Hot glue works if you can't find the correct socket.

[Farrar]

I haven't done my side marker lights in a while, but if memory serves, this might work (http://www.elecdirect.com/product/690fde50-5310-4ee5-9ece-af5a25aafeb5.aspx). It looks very similar to the ones I bought from DMC Houston a couple of years ago.

Welcome to DMCTalk. :)

[ecbow]

That looks exactly like what i need i will be ordering it. The only thing is I only see one wire and mine had two but I'll give it a try.

[Farrar]

That looks exactly like what i need i will be ordering it. The only thing is I only see one wire and mine had two but I'll give it a try.

Ooooops! Sorry, here is the two-wire version (http://www.elecdirect.com/product/756a4a76-80c0-44ef-a2c9-01f01f1f2560.aspx).

I'd double-check and make sure the hole in the lens is 5/8" just to make sure.

[ecbow]

Yep that is the one I owe you a steak dinner if you are ever in Morrison:)
Eric:)

[Farrar]

Yep that is the one I owe you a steak dinner if you are ever in Morrison:)
Eric:)

No idea where that is, but glad I could help. :)

[ecbow]

Morrison Colorado. Home of the legendary Red Rocks Ampitheatre and Banidmere Speed way where the big boys play with big toys:)
http://amphitheatremorrison.com/?gclid=CJ27l4rN-a8CFUZeTAodp3x_Dg

http://www.bandimere.com/index.php

Best to live bar none!!!

[dvonk]

Red Rocks is awesome.

[RichG]

One of my side lamps is out. I figured this would be an easy job to replace it myself. Unfortunately, the burnt-out side lamp is rusted in place and I broke the glass housing trying to take it out. I tried some needle nose pliers, but the base appears to be firmly rusted in place.

Good ol' dmctalk.org to the rescue. I'm off to the store to get some penetrating oil and then will try the carrot technique. Clever idea. Fingers crossed.

[RichG]

The carrot technique didn't work for me. I did manage to get the old bulb out by using penetrating oil and scraping, prying, and wiggling the metal base of the bulb away from the housing. I scraped away the rust from the interior. Now I'm trying to get the new bulb in.

Shouldn't the new bulb go in by turning it clockwise about an 1/8th of a turn? In my case, the new bulb doesn't turn in either direction. So, I can't lock it in place. I don't want to force it because that might break the new bulb. Thoughts?

[DMC5180]

Replace the socket. Once they are that rusted, you're better off with a fresh one. You can get a universal repair socket from DMCH or vendor. Or search Cole Hersee 2506 snap in socket.

I replaced both of mine with these. they do fit but are slightly longer than the original. Also it was a bit of job because I wanted decent access to the wire harness. I pulled the old sockets forward through the headlight openings. I soldered the new ones on then covered everything with heat shrink all the way up to the socket flange. I used a coat hanger wire through the fender opening to pull the socket back into and through the opening.


Dennis

[RichG]

Yep, time to order a new socket. I noticed my side marker gasket was missing the black rubber piece that is supposed to be above the amber side marker lens. That explains how water rusted out the socket in the first place. While I wait for the parts to arrive, I used a tiny dab of glue to keep the bulb in place within the rusted socket. This way, the side light works in the interim. Thanks, all!

[DMC5180]

The gasket does not do anything to protect the socket. It's just a finisher.
The socket is exposed to the elements from back side of the fender, which open to the wheel well and gets tire water spray thrown at it if you drive in water. If you turn the wheels inward you can look behind the fender lip and see the socket.


Dennis

[RichG]

Good call. I double-checked and the gasket isn't what I need. I'll need to find the rubstrip that is designed to go above and below the lens. Thx.

[DMC5180]

Good call. I double-checked and the gasket isn't what I need. I'll need to find the rubstrip that is designed to go above and below the lens. Thx.

It's all one piece. The center edge parts tend to dry rot and fall apart.

[DMC5180]

Here you go.

http://store.delorean.com/p-6903-side-marker-gasket.aspx


Dennis

[RichG]

Thanks, Dennis. Yep, I saw that part. I didn't realize the thin rubstrips are part of the gasket. Will order. Many thanks!!