DPI headers and starter wiring

[John U]

Hi all
Just in the process of finishing a DPI exhaust install and my wiring bundle coming from my starter is dangerously close to the headers. They are routed toward the front of the car but are still real close. Any tips or tricks?
Thanks
John

[Ratrace427]

What about spark plug wire covers. Im not sure what they are made of but they can sat right on a exhaust runner without issue. You could run each power wire through one of those.

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[sdg3205]

I had to modify the harness routing. I actually removed one of the engine hoist loops from the top of the block and used to to route the wiring away from the headers.

I believe i also ran the whole harness under the metering unit so it looked cleaner and gave me a little more slack. Let me see if i have any pictures. My car is in storage in another city.

[sdg3205]

Pretty crummy pics. This was from when i was fixing my head gasket leak. U can see the harness is really close to the block though.

5097150972509735097450975

[John U]

Thanks Dave
The pics really helped. I wrapped the wires with heatshield and routed them so they won't touch the pipe.

[Delorean Industries]

That routing should keep you out of trouble. Please don't hesitate to contact us directly with any product install questions. [email protected]

[John U]

Thanks
Finally finished the install with new eagle starter.
The exhaust kit is very well put together. Great quality, looks good and sounds better. I also love the access I have around the lower and rear of the engine.
And the best part is the alternate mounting holes for when you break a stud removing the old exhaust!

[opethmike]

That is how I did mine too, five years ago, and zero problems. Still the best sounding DMC exhaust.

[sdg3205]

That eagle starter is a good upgrade, isn't it? It's cheap, sounds better and weighs about half as much.

[John U]

That eagle starter is a good upgrade, isn't it? It's cheap, sounds better and weighs about half as much.

Definitely a good upgrade! Wasn't easy finding one though

[Ratrace427]

You might twist some wire around the shielding. The cable ties will break over time from the heat.

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[Josh]

Definitely a good upgrade! Wasn't easy finding one though

How so? Rockauto has them!
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=38028&cc=1440155&jsn=304

[John U]

I did buy from rock auto. Couldn't find any in Canada is what I meant.
Thanks for the tip on the plastic tie wraps. I have metal ones but wanted to make sure everything was routed correctly first.

[Jeffu]

I have the same exhaust. I used heat shield tape to cover the wires. Similar to this:

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/32030/10002/-1

[81dmc]

I have the same great exhaust!

I learned my lesson on its first run when my jump wire caught fire. I have since removed the jump wire and installed new battery/alternator wires with a few spark plug covers. I ran the new bundle underneath the new oreilly starter since the fire extinguisher killed my old eagle starter.

51085

Also yes, that extinguisher made that side of the engine look like crap again...

[DMCVegas]

How so? Rockauto has them!
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=38028&cc=1440155&jsn=304

It says that the part is currently out of stock. Although this one is available. (http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6678612&cc=1102295&jsn=363) Advance Auto also states that they have the unit in stock. Part No. SR6502X. But it's double the cost, and requires a core.

One thing to be careful about with the Eagle Premier is that you buy the correct starter. The Premier when it debuted had two engine choices: 3.0L PRV V6 and the 2.5L AMC I4 (Jeep engine mated to our UN-369 transaxle). How many of those were made, I've no idea. However, lots of databases still include the AMC engine, so be sure and order the correct part.

Also, while I love RockAuto, and it's my go-to for car parts for my other vehicles, be very mindful with them about shipping charges. If you place an order with multiple items, they can ship from multiple warehouses, which means multiple shipping charges. So you may have to jockey parts to consolidate things into a single shipping charge. I.e. spending $2 more on a different air filter in order to avoid an additional $8 shipping fee, because the cheaper one was at a totally different site.

[John U]

I went out for my first drive since changing the exhaust. Definitely louder inside the car.
My idle hunting is actually alot more pronounced than it was with the stock exhaust.
I changed the oxygen sensor when I did the new exhaust and I had to extend the wiring about 4inches. Could this make the idle hunting worse?
Maybe it just seems worse because the exhaust is louder?

[Bitsyncmaster]

I went out for my first drive since changing the exhaust. Definitely louder inside the car.
My idle hunting is actually alot more pronounced than it was with the stock exhaust.
I changed the oxygen sensor when I did the new exhaust and I had to extend the wiring about 4inches. Could this make the idle hunting worse?
Maybe it just seems worse because the exhaust is louder?

Don't think 4 inches of wire would hurt anything. You will need to adjust your "dwell" with a new sensor and the different exhaust.

[John U]

It runs perfectly after a minute or two...is it worth adjusting the dwell? Not something I have done before so I am reluctant to mess with it.

[Bitsyncmaster]

It runs perfectly after a minute or two...is it worth adjusting the dwell? Not something I have done before so I am reluctant to mess with it.

When you adjust the mixture screw, that also affects mixture during warmup. The WUR is factory adjusted expecting the closed loop lambda is properly adjusted. I would think your better flowing exhaust would affect the "dwell" setting.

So yes, I would recommend you check and adjust if not set to book value.

[sdg3205]

New 02 sensor would likely have an effect on your dwell. You should at the very least see if you're in the ball park. If you're mixture screw is still factory sealed, thats a good thing in some regards.

[DMCVegas]

New 02 sensor would likely have an effect on your dwell.

Which is precisely why you shouldn't set your fuel mixture based upon dwell. O2 sensors, in particular narrow band units w/o heater wires like ours, have a much shorter lifespan than modern wide band units. Which is why you're supposed to replace them every 30K miles; their ability to accurately measure oxygen content greatly decreases and results in false readings. Not to mention that you could technically even have manufacturing variations that could affect the performance of the unit.

All of those things are variables factors which you do not have control over. That is why you should set your fuel mixture by analyzing the pre-catalyst exhaust gasses via the method described in the workshop manual that eliminates all variables such as combustion chamber temps, timing, enrichment circuits, etc.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Which is precisely why you shouldn't set your fuel mixture based upon dwell. O2 sensors, in particular narrow band units w/o heater wires like ours, have a much shorter lifespan than modern wide band units. Which is why you're supposed to replace them every 30K miles; their ability to accurately measure oxygen content greatly decreases and results in false readings. Not to mention that you could technically even have manufacturing variations that could affect the performance of the unit.

All of those things are variables factors which you do not have control over. That is why you should set your fuel mixture by analyzing the pre-catalyst exhaust gasses via the method described in the workshop manual that eliminates all variables such as combustion chamber temps, timing, enrichment circuits, etc.

Your not setting the mixture with a working lambda system. Your centering the lambda control (FV). Now you are setting the mixture when the lambda is open loop (cold engine) but that is designed to be correct with a centered lambda system.

[Grover]

Probably late to the party here, but this is what I used to surround my wires with near the UK Stainless Exhaust Headers.

Spark-Resistant Wrap-Around Sleeving

Silicone rubber coats this fiberglass sleeving to shed sparks and molten metal splash. It also resists hydraulic fuels and lubricating oils. Install without disconnecting wire and cable; the hook-and-loop allows you to maintain access along the length of the sleeving. All you do is wrap it around and velco it together. Been keeping the wires burn-free since 2013.

McMaster-Carr
Fiberglass with Silicone Rubber Coating
ID Thick Temp
7/8" 5/32" -65° to 500° Orange 8266K11 $12.60

[DMCVegas]

Your not setting the mixture with a working lambda system. Your centering the lambda control (FV). Now you are setting the mixture when the lambda is open loop (cold engine) but that is designed to be correct with a centered lambda system.


You're not setting the mixture with LAMBDA using the factory method either. In fact, you're not supposed to because you wouldn't want to center anything with LAMBDA because it is a bolt-on system which creates purposeful variants based upon adaptability to variable conditions. Setting a baseline with zero variables is critical to the proper operation of the system. LAMBDA does NOT control the Air:Fuel Ratio. Rather, it simply makes subtle tweaks to it. When properly working of course.

What controls the AFR is the Air Mixture Unit itself. It adjusts fuel flow based upon air flow. From there we simply have bolt-on equipment that performs the fine-tuning of the AFR as it relates to the operating variables of the engine itself. This includes vacuum, and the all important temperature. You cannot control how colt an engine gets, let alone how fast it heats up. Which is why once you have your radiator fans running, you bypass the Otterstat to leave them on; this leaves combustion chamber temperatures in the control of the Thermostat which keeps said temperature constant. Thus the variables are removed.

I get what you're trying to do here. It's pretty much just a crude way of substituting the O2 sensor for an Exhaust Gas Analyzer to adjust the AFR. It's noble enough, but there are still way too many variables at play here. You need a set fast idle for more accurate, yet static volume of fuel burned. You need a static engine coolant temperature to ensure a consistent burn...the list goes on.

You need to remove all the variables to set a proper baseline. Otherwise, just plugging into an engine that's at stock idle with a fluctuating coolant temperature isn't going to properly set the AFR, no matter what method is used, is not going to work. You'll keep on chasing after that point, but you may catch it in the wrong area.

[John U]

New 02 sensor would likely have an effect on your dwell. You should at the very least see if you're in the ball park. If you're mixture screw is still factory sealed, thats a good thing in some regards.

It is still sealed and I plan to keep it that way if I can

[Delorean Industries]

CO adjustment mandatory after exhaust install.

[Bitsyncmaster]

It is still sealed and I plan to keep it that way if I can

You can still check the "dwell" without removing the seal. Then you can decide if you want to adjust it if needed.