Upper ball joint question

[Henrik]

The swaged part that keeps my upper ball joints in place are not even and round as I would have expected, but more like wave shaped - see pictures. It's the same on both upper ball joints. Other than that there is no play, stickiness or any other obvious signs of wear.

So, is the wave shape the result of excessive suspension travel i.e. wear or was it ground that way to allow for proper movement?

Replace or reinstall?

5136551366

[PJ Grady Inc.]

It looks like collision damage to me. In my experience the arm would have been bent for the ball seat to be distorted like that. Perhaps they were transfered from damaged control arms? I would replace both. Were they riveted or bolted into place?
Rob

[Delorean Industries]

Definitely replace. We started using Ed Uding's stronger joints on all of our service work and build cars. Well worth the investment. We stock these but you can always get directly through Edward.

[Henrik]

It looks like collision damage to me. In my experience the arm would have been bent for the ball seat to be distorted like that. Perhaps they were transfered from damaged control arms? I would replace both. Were they riveted or bolted into place?
Rob

Great input - thanks.

Both UCAs are straight as an arrow. The right side LCA was indeed slightly bent backwards (I have bought new LCAs for both sides) but not really enough to cause the upper ball joints to be bashed up like this. The right side UBJ (with the bent LCA) was riveted in place but the left side UBJ (LCA was OK) was bolted in.

I certainly will replace both.

[Henrik]

Definitely replace. We started using Ed Uding's stronger joints on all of our service work and build cars. Well worth the investment. We stock these but you can always get directly through Edward.

Great to hear from both Rob and now Josh that these upper ball joints are trash. Will order new ones.

[Josh]

Henrik,

Slightly a tangent from the thread but would you be able to measure out the hole pattern on the ball joint for me?

It is for... a science experiment...

[Henrik]

Henrik,

Slightly a tangent from the thread but would you be able to measure out the hole pattern on the ball joint for me?

It is for... a science experiment...

Sure! Today or tomorrow.

[Henrik]

Definitely replace. We started using Ed Uding's stronger joints on all of our service work and build cars. Well worth the investment. We stock these but you can always get directly through Edward.

So Ed's ball joints are different from the standard ball joints supplied by the DMC network in the US? If so, in what way?

Well, lucky me: I just purchased a new set of LCAs from Ed and they came pre-installed with his lower ball joints so I guess I got the beefier ones by coincidence... So now I just have to buy a set of upper ball joints from Ed.

BTW, not sure in what sense Ed's ball joints are "stronger" but they sure are STIFF!!!. Can't even move them by brute force. Ed tells me that it is OK and that it will be just fine once installed on the car... True or BS?

[Josh]

Thanks! no rush at all.

It was my understanding that all the delorean vendors (excluding Special T) stock the dmceu lower ball joints. They have proven themselves to be the best.
They certainly are stiff out of the box but they will wear in. Not a major concern.

[Chris 16409]

From what I know, Ed Uding's lower ball joints are different from the UK eurotec club ball joints. The US DMC shops have been stocking the UK Eurotec club ball joints.

[Josh]

From what I know, Ed Uding's lower ball joints are different from the UK eurotec club ball joints. The US DMC shops have been stocking the UK Eurotec club ball joints.

I stand corrected...

I though all the overseas balljoints were the same.

[DeLoreanGo Arran]

Lower Ball Joints
I think pretty much everyone now stocks what is known as "the UK ball joint" - this one - https://www.deloreango.com/us/lower-ball-joints-pair.html
Except Ed, who does his own version now, made in what we call "overseas" over here ;)
They look the same I think.


Upper Ball Joints
There is our version (from the same UK manufacturer as the lowers) - here - https://www.deloreango.com/us/delorean-upper-ball-joint.html (OEM-spec, except the rubber boot, although a more OEM looking boot is available separately if you prefer)
Not sure where the US suppliers get theirs, we have supplied Rob Grady with these. I think Ed has too though.
Again, Ed has his own version, we also stock these - https://www.deloreango.com/us/upper-ball-joint.html (picture not accurate). This version uses a metric shaft (slightly fatter), so a little modification is required (see my link for the process).

[Henrik]

Henrik,

Slightly a tangent from the thread but would you be able to measure out the hole pattern on the ball joint for me?

It is for... a science experiment...

Here are the dims. I did not define the vertical relationship between the holes and the grease nipple. Let me know if you need that too.

If your science experiment is a Nobel prize winner I hope I get to share in the glory. If a bunch of people die, then I never had any knowledge of it :)

51451

[Henrik]

Upper Ball Joints
.... we also stock these - https://www.deloreango.com/us/upper-ball-joint.html... a little modification is required.

Arran,
I don't mean to criticize but those installation instructions are not clear to me. Are the instructions suggesting to bore out the hole of the top of the steering knuckle, where the upper ball joint is bolted in, to make room for the UBJ's M12 threaded shaft? This is cast iron, the thickness is about 21 mm, so not entirely simple.

Besides, the thru hole diameter of both my steering knuckles is in the 12-13 mm range already so expanding that hole would seem unnecessary - or - maybe a PO bored those out in the past.

If you could clarify the required modifications I would appreciate it.

[DeLoreanGo Arran]

Hi - that is the DeLorean Europe version, not our version. I think what he's saying is that, yes. The shaft is tapered so the further down you go the fatter it becomes, and his versions are slightly fatter than stock. The instructions say to either bash it in with a hammer, and/or widen just the first 2mm of the knuckle (with a drill) to help get it in. The fact that he mentions 2 methods indicates to me that the hole sizes in the existing knuckles are not perhaps always uniform - some are probably bigger that others.

If you want an OEM-spec quality British made version though with no modifications required, with free US shipping when buying a pair, this is the one to go for: https://www.deloreango.com/us/delorean-upper-ball-joint.html

[Henrik]

Aha I get it now. Thanks Arran!

[Josh]

Here are the dims. I did not define the vertical relationship between the holes and the grease nipple. Let me know if you need that too.

If your science experiment is a Nobel prize winner I hope I get to share in the glory. If a bunch of people die, then I never had any knowledge of it :)

51451

YOU ARE THE BEST!

Thank you. Ill make sure to keep you in the loop. Probably will be a winter 2018 project...