No Power to fuse 7 in fuse box for fuel pump while key is on

[artisticent]

Car wont start due to fuel pump not working. Ive at least found that there is no power to fuse 7 which is the fuel pump. Seems so close to the battery so what could be the reason for no power to the fuse? anyone got any ideas? my weekend project to get this car going..

Thanks
Nathan

[artisticent]

Quick update, I tried jumping the RPM relay and still no fuel pump. There is no power. I looked for a kill switch but also came up with nothing. Fuse in number 1 and 7 good (although fuse 7 holder has evidence of some melting in the past). This is all very random and stopped working between start ups in a several week period. Heres a pic of a not well managed fuse relay area

[Lwanmtr]

Does the car turn on when you turn the key on? I'd start there.

[artisticent]

Does the car turn on when you turn the key on? I'd start there.
It cranks strong. And I would always start it and let it run every couple weeks. But I tried recently and it now only cranks. Doesn't turn over and I'm no longer hearing the fuel pump

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[Lwanmtr]

Check with a voltmeter to see if there is power to the fuse at all? If not pull up the fuse block and look to see if any wires maybe have come off.
The melting is a common problem with the original blocks (replacing mine is on my list too)...could be that the connector is just not seated right anymore.

if there's no power at all to the fuse, then start tracing back. Weeee electrical gremlins are the worst...

[artisticent]

Yes they are my friend. Such a bummer because I WASN'T even messing around in there. It just happened. I think you're probably on the right track with me having to remove that fuse panel which I am not looking forward to. Do you know if the power to the fuse block is coming straight from the battery? It seems like such a short distance it would be easy to locate a power issue from the battery to the fuse

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[DMC5180]

What's the floating fuse powering?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[artisticent]

I'm not really sure why or who put that there. Or what it goes to. I zoomed up but the cable disappears under things

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[DMC5180]

That's a typical thing you would see for a number 7 fuse bypass. Check to see if it has power.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[artisticent]

That's a typical thing you would see for a number 7 fuse bypass. Check to see if it has power.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ahhh. Ill check that now

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[Lwanmtr]

I hadnt heard of doing that as a bypass.

[DMC5180]

I hadnt heard of doing that as a bypass.

It's fairly common to see that "repair" after a fuse 7 meltdown.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[artisticent]

That fuse jumper is getting power. The fuse is good because I checked it on the both sides fuse in and fuse out. It looks like it is going in to relay 31 but hard to tell. Sound right??

[DMC5180]

It goes to the lambda relay ( next to the Green defroster timer) from there it goes to the rpm relay. Pull the the rpm relay and check the brown wire for power.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[artisticent]

It goes to the lambda relay ( next to the Green defroster timer) from there it goes to the rpm relay. Pull the the rpm relay and check the brown wire for power.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
What number is the brown

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[DMC5180]

There's only one brown wire in the plug. Look at the back of the Rpm relay connector.

Tip: brown wires are 12v primary supply wires. They are live at all times.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Lwanmtr]

There's only one brown wire in the plug. Look at the back of connector.

Assuming PO wasnt on some weird drugs and decided get all psychadelic with wiring...hehe

[DMC5180]

Assuming PO wasnt on some weird drugs and decided get all psychadelic with wiring...hehe

I can see from the photo, there is only one brown wire in the rpm relay connector.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[artisticent]

I can see from the photo, there is only one brown wire in the rpm relay connector.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes there's power to the brown. I jumpered that brown 30 to the lower opposite corner and still nothing. Love the help thank you

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[artisticent]

Yes there's power to the brown. I jumpered that brown 30 to the lower opposite corner and still nothing. Love the help thank you

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
Still nothing from the fuel pump

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[DMC5180]

You jumpered to the white/purple wire?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[artisticent]

You jumpered to the white/purple wire?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Did thishttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170514/018a45d792d957f4c2d6c56baeb4ab86.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[Lwanmtr]

That feeds into the main fuel relay, according to the wiring diagram and the lambda thingy is in tha circuit too

[DMC5180]

Okay, with the jumper installed, go to the fuel pump and see off the white/purple wire has 12v.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[artisticent]

Okay, with the jumper installed, go to the fuel pump and see off the white/purple wire has 12v.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Will do. Sorry, what's the best way to get to the fuel pump? Not sure exactly where it is on our cars

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[DMC5180]

Remove spare tire, then remove the panel in the tire well.

But before you do that. Check to see if the inertia Switch is tripped, red button popped up. It is mounted on the left side of the drivers footwell.

Post a photo of it.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[artisticent]

Remove spare tire, then remove the panel in the tire well.

But before you do that. Check to see if the inertia Switch is tripped, red button popped up. It is mounted on the left side of the drivers footwell.

Post a photo of it.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It was pushed down. It slides up and down quite easily https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170514/8b3559c8f4ea058cb423eafdda6cec40.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[DMC5180]

Okay, on to the fuel pump then. Post another photo when you get the acces panel removed. You should see a 2 wire connector. You can probe the white/purple at the connector for 12v. If you get power. Then do a continuity test of the other wire to Chassis ground. If you have continuity to ground. (Your pump is Dead)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[artisticent]

Now that may be something as I am currently pulling the interior out for upholstery. Does that ground for the fuel pump come inside the firewall or stay in the trunk bay??

[DMC5180]

It is inside but should not be in an area you would disturb with carpet removal. The inertia switch breaks the Ground path if tripped. You still need to get to the fuel pump to check things out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[artisticent]

It is inside but should not be in an area you would disturb with carpet removal. The inertia switch breaks the Ground path if tripped. You still need to get to the fuel pump to check things out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ok. Ill get that done tomorrow morning. Thank you and stay tuned.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[DMC5180]

Ok. Ill get that done tomorrow morning. Thank you and stay tuned.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Will do.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Lwanmtr]

Good luck

[artisticent]

Good luck
Thanks guys. I'm on a good path thanks to you guys

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[artisticent]

I disconnected the plug but this is the fuel pump connector? https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170514/544748d48337971a79d4485f2fc48713.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[Lwanmtr]

Yep, thats the fuel pump

[DMC5180]

Now probe the dirty connector hiding under the lip of the opening.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[artisticent]

Yep, thats the fuel pump
I get no power when the key is on but when I turn the key to crank, my volt meter reads between 9.8 and 11.5.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[artisticent]

I get no power when the key is on but when I turn the key to crank, my volt meter reads between 9.8 and 11.5.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
I was sure i used to hear the fuel pump with key on but i guess i was mistaken if no power gets to it unless I'm cranking the engine

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[David T]

I was sure i used to hear the fuel pump with key on but i guess i was mistaken if no power gets to it unless I'm cranking the engine

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Now that you are at the connector to the fuel pump, check for power AND ground there. You MUST have BOTH for the pump to run. Depending on which one is not present (power or ground) will determine your next steps. To get power you can jumper the RPM relay for testing purposes.

[DMC5180]

The good news, is that someone has done some work in there previously. The hoses are relatively new and the fuel pump harness sticking out of the pump cover appears to have been replaced (clean white connector half).

As I zoom in in on the other (dirty half) there appears to be green corrosion present on the 12v wire terminal. You should try to clean it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[DMC5180]

Now that you are at the connector to the fuel pump, check for power AND ground there. You MUST have BOTH for the pump to run. Depending on which one is not present (power or ground) will determine your next steps. To get power you can jumper the RPM relay for testing purposes.

Thanks for reposting post #28
[emoji6]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[artisticent]

The car went to dmc in garden grove right when I bought it 3 years ago. I'm assuming they did the work that you see as being recent. As far as the connector is concerned I actually used a volt meter and touched red to the white lead and the black to the ground lead to get my reading of 11v. Is that good to test ground? I would assume that's ok but I could run a continuity test on the ground if I need to

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[DMC5180]

The car went to dmc in garden grove right when I bought it 3 years ago. I'm assuming they did the work that you see as being recent. As far as the connector is concerned I actually used a volt meter and touched red to the white lead and the black to the ground lead to get my reading of 11v. Is that good to test ground? I would assume that's ok but I could run a continuity test on the ground if I need to

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

You have confirmed a completed circuit. No real need to continuity other than looking for ohms resistance.

Reconnect the pump connector and jumper the rpm relay again. If don't here it hum you have a dead pump.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[DMC5180]

How much fuel is in the tank if you had to guess?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[artisticent]

Just to be sure I tested continuity to the ground on my foot well. All good. So ill jumper again. But hard to hear a hum with the engine cranking at the same time. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170514/459a5baa6cb92ddd5ecc8bdeed09fa7f.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[artisticent]

How much fuel is in the tank if you had to guess?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I filled it with an extra 5 gallons to be sure and its sitting flat

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[artisticent]

So here's what I've discovered. Jumping the RPM relay gives me power to the fuel pump connector in the trunk with key on and without cranking. However the car will still not start and I'm hearing no humming so I think we've successfully diagnosed it's a fuel pump

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[DMC5180]

If you jumper the relay, you don't need to crank the engine to hear the pump. You can also put your hand down by the pump and feel vibrations if it's running. If nothing, it's time for a pump.

You have options there. You can either stick with the OEM style or do the the New DMCH replacement module, which includes a new integrated sending unit.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[artisticent]

My instinct says to go with the dmch replacement. Im not too worried about cost if its the right part to have. Besides the labor of these repairs in time has more value than the part cost so Id rather install the right part.
1) Where should I get the part and do I want the dmch replacement
2) Does the fuel pump come out from under that big hose clamp and removing it from the top

[artisticent]

Found this receipt in the docs the po kept. Hmm I wonder if that went inhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170514/e23db6eccfeae2bcd3a126251f029cda.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[DMC5180]

You need to get the pump from DMCH or Affiliate.

It comes with complete instructions with photos of all the steps involved. It's pretty straightforward.

You will be removing everything in the tank. Including the sending unit.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[DMC5180]

Found this receipt in the docs the po kept. Hmm I wonder if that went inhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170514/e23db6eccfeae2bcd3a126251f029cda.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

You the OEM unit. Kit means they replaced all the rubber pieces with the pump.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[artisticent]

Look about right? Dmc store. Not sure what dmch ishttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170514/a7b1f525173870a8b30cad6b40c660b3.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[DMC5180]

Delorean Motor Company (Humble, TX.) aka DMCH

Aka: Delorean.com

Yes that's the New integrated pump kit.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[bfloyd]

Fuel pump is a very simple straight forward job IF you have all of the original electrical connections on your harness. The new kit from DMC will include a stainless steel blanking plug to put in the place of where your original sending unit was. Make sure that cover is screwed on tight! Also (IMPORTANT) one thing you want to pay attention to is the orientation of the check valve on the discharge line from the fuel pump. It took me about a week and a half of cussing and griping at my car before I realized I had installed the line with the check valve backwards. The side of the check valve has an arrow engraved on it that indicates the direction of flow. Make sure that arrow is pointing away from the pump.

Honestly, it should be about a 1 1/2 - 2 hour job once you get everything unbuttoned and your tools ready.

[artisticent]

Look what came in the mail. Here goes nothing. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170518/accb382e3ee4267998bf1cfd193d064b.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[Lwanmtr]

Its like xmas :)

Good luck

[artisticent]

Lol thanks. I'm off to get a syphen kit now. Gotta few gallons of gas in there I gotta get out. Step 5, empty tank

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[artisticent]

Ok so here it is. Ready for install and I'm on it right now. I like the new pump bit the installation doesn't address it being as disassembled out if the box. The "gas low float" is not connected but they assume it is.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[artisticent]

Not quite sure it's correct orientation before installing the pump in to the tankhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170529/61630dc6f504bbe36ed4fc61edcb99a2.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[artisticent]

Hah figured that out. Here it goes

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[artisticent]

They say to seat the clamp over the tank opening first. Then to slide the fuel pump in and tighten the clamp snug at first. I'm wondering if the white top edge of the fuel pump seats inside the ridge of the hose clamp or on top. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170529/97834de21e48359bf41211c6ff48eadd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170529/d824bd04bb2241909cece921e26b938b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170529/08c12fe5a76fb716de47276d1f28a51a.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[DMC5180]

Inside, the clamp captures the pump top flange, seal ring and lip of fuel tank opening.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[artisticent]

So all done. It does now actually want to start and catches for a second or two but won't stay running. Very shaky. Running the battery dead too now. Hmm. There's not much you can do wrong in this install. Although I haven't changed the fuel filter yet.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[DMC5180]

You're running on the cold start fuel.
You may just have a lot of air in the injector lines to purge out. My car does that after sitting a long period. Sometimes it takes a few tries till all cylinders catch.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[artisticent]

Definitely sounds better as I keep trying it but I've yet to have it run " it's own. But I'm also fighting the fact that it hasn't ran in about 6 months so there's a lot of elements here

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[DMC5180]

Try depressing the gas pedal about a 1/4 while cranking too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[artisticent]

Definitely been doing that. Sounds healthier every time. Just ran the battery dead now so I'll try again tomorrow. Also if I can create I little more room to get under the drivers side rear real, I'll change the fuel filter. Couldn't see it today.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[DMC5180]

One thing you could do is jumper the rpm relay so the pump runs continuous, this will fully pressurize the fuel system without you needing the crank the engine. Then press the air plate down briefly. This should purge out the fuel lines. Now you should be able crank it over for a successful startup. If it does finally stay running like this. Shut it down and reinstall the rpm relay.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[artisticent]

Great call. Love it. Will do as soon as I get back in the battery

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[artisticent]

Runs like a top. Rpm relay back connected. All good. Except after 10 minutes all the coolant coming out of what appears to be the bottom left corner of the radiator. Awesome lol. That's another day.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[DMC5180]

Woo hoo[emoji6]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[artisticent]

Fast and strong. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170531/de283ccc564af1343ad25750d90a3c0d.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[DMC5180]

Is it the tank seam or just loose hose clamp?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[artisticent]

Checked upper and lower hoses and they're dry. Definitely coming from a more fun location. Leaving the car running to build up pressure to really get a good look

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[artisticent]

Right at that seamhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170531/5a70c576d748909a760c6b129c65859e.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[artisticent]

Dry above it.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[DMC5180]

Oh well, like you said, a project for another weekend.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[DMC5180]

Radiator replacements are so much fun too. Not! Plan on half a day when all said and done.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[David T]

If it isn't leaking at a hose connection you will be replacing the radiator. If it is the OEM rad with the plastic tanks you should replace it anyway. Lots of small fasteners to break when you remove it. Good time to consider if you are going to replace the fans too with newer type also.

[artisticent]

I'm absolutely all for upgrades. Especially with the rising prices of the cars and I would love to get it on the road again. What are the parts specifically?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[DMC5180]

Their are multiple Vendor options. It boils down to who you prefer to purchase from.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[artisticent]

I think I just got this fuel pump upgrade from Texas dmc. I haven't ordered enough to have a loyalty to anyone yet so my loyalty is to the referred vendor of the members who are helping me here.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[DMC5180]

I've been using a heavy duty 3 row brass radiator for the past 20 years. So I can't really recommend one vendor over another when it comes to this. Everyone has created their own version of upgraded cooling system components in recent years.

The most popular fan configuration that's had the most years in service is this setup.

http://www.delorean-parts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=K4001DP-A



This is the latest setup from DMCH https://store.delorean.com/p-6279-radiator-cooling-fan-motor.aspx

https://store.delorean.com/p-6273-radiator.aspx

They also have a complete kit that includes all hoses and clamps if you want to go that far.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk