A/C blues

[davidc89]

Went to go charge my air conditioning today and heard something leaking. Seems to be leaking under the car by the driver side footwell. I am assuming this is the line leaking as I can't physically see where it is, but can hear it.

What does it take to replace this line? I am assuming I have to lift the body. At this point I might as well convert to R134a.

[Delorean Industries]

Our one piece line kits can be installed without lifting the body.

[davidc89]

Is the install with your kit pretty self explanatory?

[Michael]

I'm getting ready to do the same thing. The line from the compressor to the accumulator has been comprised by a bolt from the closing plate being too long..gotta love refurbs. So I have to find a set of shorter bolts before replacing the line and I'm also biting the bullet and converting to 134

So just to make sure, my line from the compressor to the accumulator can be replaced fairly easily right?

[Bitsyncmaster]

I have installed the DPI hoses on a friends car and there is no problem installing those hoses since the fittings are clamped on the hoses after you run the hoses. I have had problems with Hervey's two piece hoses (twice) with the low side (larger dia.) hose.

[Delorean Industries]

Very easy!

[David T]

Several of the Delorean vendors have a hose option that does not require lifting the body. If you still have the original hoses you should replace all 3 at the same time. If the dryer/accumulator hasn't been replaced in a long time it should be replaced as well along with the belt for the compressor, the 2 idler bearings, the oil, and the cores for the service valves. While some have converted to -134 IMHO you are best served by staying with R-12. That is what the system was deigned for and R-12 is still obtainable albeit a bit more expensive than -134.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Several of the Delorean vendors have a hose option that does not require lifting the body. If you still have the original hoses you should replace all 3 at the same time. If the dryer/accumulator hasn't been replaced in a long time it should be replaced as well along with the belt for the compressor, the 2 idler bearings, the oil, and the cores for the service valves. While some have converted to -134 IMHO you are best served by staying with R-12. That is what the system was deigned for and R-12 is still obtainable albeit a bit more expensive than -134.
Our A/C Hose setup uses one piece barrier hoses with the original, but threaded, connections at the compressor and evaporator. We find this system is easiest to install and service the system compared to aftermarket fittings and is compatible with R12 and/or 134A.
Rob

[Michael]

Well I just opened the box from DMCMW that I got 2 weeks ago. My Receiver/Drier and hose and o rings just as expected. The hose is one piece with threaded couplings on both ends. Looks easy enough to me.

[DMC5180]

Well I just opened the box from DMCMW that I got 2 weeks ago. My Receiver/Drier and hose and o rings just as expected. The hose is one piece with threaded couplings on both ends. Looks easy enough to me.

You got lucky. The Short hose is also the easiest one to replace. Is you your old hose the one with the Hub inline near the accumulator or the later version with the HP cutout switch at the condenser outlet?


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[Michael]

You got lucky. The Short hose is also the easiest one to replace. Is you your old hose the one with the Hub inline near the accumulator or the later version with the HP cutout switch at the condenser outlet?


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I never looked close enough.

[DMC5180]

I misread your original post. Which hose are you replacing? I thought you said, condenser to accumulator. Accumulator to compressor (low side hose) is bit more challenging if it's the OEM type hose size. The DPI hoses would be very easy to fish through the frame space.


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[iflights]

Adding onto a recent and relevant thread...for those who have done so, what should be my time expectation for me to replace the AC compressor, the lines, & accumulator? Evap and condenser will be cleaned out, but will remain in place.

I want to have it ready for the the Woodward Dream Cruise and that's only a month away.

Thank you in advance.

[eight8toy]

None of it is very hard. If you have a lift you could knock it out in a weekend easy. I'm using car jacks and am stuck with the last connection from the accumulator to the evaporator. Now having to resort to using a dremel to try and cut the accumulator off. If it wasn't for that one connection causing so much frustration I would have been done a month ago! Hopefully you don't run into anything like that!

If you are replacing all the lines I found it was easier to use a handsaw and cut the old lines into smaller pieces to get them removed off the car.

[dn010]

If you break the line going to the evaporator, add much more frustration and at the very least another full day to fix your AC.

[David T]

You should not have to replace the compressor unless it is making bad noises. If you are familiar with the job and things go well (everything comes apart easily, no contamination) it's about a 4 hour job figuring an hour for evacuation.

[Michael]

You should not have to replace the compressor unless it is making bad noises.

OR of it's not working. I've seen plenty of bad compressors that are not noisy but need replacement. You gotta have gauges to make the determination.

[DMC5180]

None of it is very hard. If you have a lift you could knock it out in a weekend easy. I'm using car jacks and am stuck with the last connection from the accumulator to the evaporator. Now having to resort to using a dremel to try and cut the accumulator off. If it wasn't for that one connection causing so much frustration I would have been done a month ago! Hopefully you don't run into anything like that!

If you are replacing all the lines I found it was easier to use a handsaw and cut the old lines into smaller pieces to get them removed off the car.

That is a bugger of connection to get wrenches on. The Evaporator nut is steel Female thread. I don't no how you are cutting the Accumulator Nut, but you must not damage the Evaporator Nut or tube. Replacing the Evaporator is big job. I've done it, and hope I never have to do it ever again.

Before you resort to cutting, Try penetrating oil. You could Also Carefully try heating the large Hex on the Accumulator. Aluminum will expand easily.


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[Michael]

I misread your original post. Which hose are you replacing? I thought you said, condenser to accumulator. Accumulator to compressor (low side hose) is bit more challenging if it's the OEM type hose size. The DPI hoses would be very easy to fish through the frame space.


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Mist have not been too bad. Total bill was 300 and that was replacing the accumulator as well as convert and charge it. That was several weeks ago and the AC has been doing fine ever since. I have always refrained from 134 but really I can't tell a difference in vent temps.

[opethmike]

Or if the compressor is leaking (not exactly rare), and you don't want to go through the chore of re-gasketing it.

[FABombjoy]

Dryer to evap removal can be made easier if you pull the fuel pump access plate. Gives you a straight shot to the connection. I saw a lot of posts about how scary that fitting is but had it removed fairly instantly with a few long crescent wrenches.

[iflights]

Thank you all for the guidance. I think I've read just about every AC thread here so I feel prepared for the work and potential pitfalls.

[eight8toy]

That is a bugger of connection to get wrenches on. The Evaporator nut is steel Female thread. I don't no how you are cutting the Accumulator Nut, but you must not damage the Evaporator Nut or tube. Replacing the Evaporator is big job. I've done it, and hope I never have to do it ever again.

Before you resort to cutting, Try penetrating oil. You could Also Carefully try heating the large Hex on the Accumulator. Aluminum will expand easily.


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Ya I stopped working on my car for the past few weeks just because of that one connection! I tried wedging the accumulator against the wall in my garage with a 2x4 and then slipping a wrench through the spare tire hole and even with a cheater couldn't get the damn thing to budge. Soaked it in half a can of PB but haven't tried the heat, might give that a shot before cutting into it more. Found this online of someone else cutting his so figured why not?

http://www.deloreanreborn.com/index.php?itemid=126

Actually though, not sure if I need to replace the evap now since even though the two nuts won't budge, the female evap nut is able to spin a bit on the tube with the accumulator still attached to it. Does that mean it's compromised too?

[DMC5180]

Not necessarily. lt's an o-ring compression seal. the Evap Tube is Aluminum it may have deformed the Bubble flange slightly that the nut pushes on . Since you can't budge the nut at the movement, you have no way of seeing if you can tighten it. be very careful with heat. Try to concentrate solely on the nut. Also keep a wet rag handy to protect the surrounding area. use shields if at all possible. If you have any hint of fuel smell don't even think about trying it.


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[dn010]

Keep in mind that fuel lines lie just beyond the accumulator. I'd go ahead and cut it apart (Actually it's MUCH easier with a plasma cutter if you have access). I had to remove my dash twice to replace the evaporator, I'm on my third one. More can be found here:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?13987-A-C-Accumulator-(dryer)-Removal

[eight8toy]

Ya I'm not too excited seeing the fuel lines right behind. I only have a simple dremel tool which has been working well with the accumulator. Will try using my handheld propane torch that I also used on my main crankshaft seal nut a few months ago.

San Diego Comic Con is this weekend so might just seal everything up for now so I can go drive downtown and see a lot of smiling faces!

[Andrew]

If the accumulator is undamaged thus far, I would consider just leaving it alone and reusing it. I sheered the accumulator to low side hose connection on 5052 and just barely saved the evaporator connection.

Contrary to popular belief, an accumulator can be reused even with a 134a conversion. I'm doing just that on my Bricklin because the Bricklin accumulator is NLA and I didn't want pay to have the existing unit rebuilt or make a custom part. The Bricklin's AC works great.

[dn010]

He has already stated he's begun cutting his accumulator out. I reused the accumulator once and gotten away with it but the system was not open for more than a few seconds. After that my system had been open so long it didn't make sense to replace $$$ worth of parts and not replace the accumulator. Also if your compressor is new and has a warranty, you'll likely void it without replacing the accumulator....


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[David T]

There are 2 very important reasons the accumulator should be replaced:

1) the accumulator also contains the desiccant (dryer) which removes any moisture that may get into the system. Eventually it gets "overloaded" and can no longer absorb any more moisture. Replacing the accumulator replaces the desiccant so you start "fresh".

2) the accumulator traps a good amount of refrigerant oil and there is no good way to drain it. Over time it can become acidic and should all be replaced. Replacing the accumulator gets rid of that oil. The other place that contains a large amount of oil is the compressor but you can drain most of it out. Minor amounts remain in the hoses and coils but they can be flushed.

3) Another good reason is that in replacing the accumulator you also replace the "O" ring seals and that should stop any leaks.

In any major service of the A/C system on an old Delorean you typically replace all 3 hoses, the accumulator/dryer, the oil, all of the "O" ring seals, and the 2 service valve cores. Do a leak-test, evacuate, refill with refrigerant and do a performance test. You will also probably have to clean the condensate drain, replace the cabin fan motor, replace the belt and 2 idler pulleys, and rebuild the mode switch. The engine cooling system must also be in good working order to have good A/C.

[eight8toy]

52552
I like this thread because it got me motivated today. Picked up some real quality metal cutting wheels for my dremel and cut away the accumulator in sections. Ended up with this tonight. Will try some penetrating oil and some heat (not at the same time of course) tomorrow to see if I can finally get it separated!

[Michael]

In any major service of the A/C system on an old Delorean you typically replace all 3 hoses, the accumulator/dryer, the oil, all of the "O" ring seals, and the 2 service valve cores. Do a leak-test, evacuate, refill with refrigerant and do a performance test. You will also probably have to clean the condensate drain, replace the cabin fan motor, replace the belt and 2 idler pulleys, and rebuild the mode switch. The engine cooling system must also be in good working order to have good A/C.

Sounds like overkill to me. Are these cars really that delicate that one should replace half the ac system for a service? Maybe make it simple in the future...
Every 30k miles: Inspect and replace DeLorean sports car

[David T]

The hoses were never intended to last 30 + years. Nor the oil, the belt, or the idler pulleys. In fact, nothing on the car was meant to last that long except maybe the S/S panels! A lot does depend on how the car was cared for and how much it was used but after 30 years (assuming none of this was ever replaced) it is time. If the system is flat (all of the gas leaked out) you definitely should do all of this. One big reason, as the Freon (refrigerant) leaks out it takes some of the oil with it. Once it is all gone (the refrigerant) air can get in and with it moisture. That turns what remains of the oil acidic and overloads the desiccant. Now you should replace the dryer (accumulator) and all of the oil (of which you don't have enough anyway). Cheaping out is bad economy when you are doing this kind of work, the parts (excepting the hoses, coils, and compressor) are not all that expensive.

[opethmike]

I'm with Michael; Mustache is basically saying to replace the entire A/C system for a service, which is preposterous overkill.

On my car, I had an A/C leak for a few years, which I finally fixed. I simply put new gaskets in the compressor (a bit laborious, but cheap), and replaced a few o-rings. Extensive leak testing later and no more leaks. I would have wasted hundreds of dollars and many hours if I replaced everything. Waste of time, money, and parts.

Yes, these cars and parts are old, but that's no reason to go over the top with paranoia and replace everything.

[David T]

I am not saying to automatically replace everything. What I am saying is if the hoses are original they should be replaced, if the dryer/accumulator is original it should be replaced, the oil should be changed and the valve cores should be replaced. If the belt and idler pulleys are old they should be replaced. If the mode switch hisses it should be rebuilt. Typically the compressor and the coils just have to be flushed. A lot depends on if the system is flat and has been for a long time, if the car was sitting, if anything has been serviced recently, etc. If the system was working recently all it may need is to fix a leak and recharge it. Often when I see a car it has been recently purchased and the new owner wants to make everything work. More often than not the A/C is flat and has been for a LONG time. That is when you can expect to do everything.

[rtcraver]

Several of the Delorean vendors have a hose option that does not require lifting the body. If you still have the original hoses you should replace all 3 at the same time. If the dryer/accumulator hasn't been replaced in a long time it should be replaced as well along with the belt for the compressor, the 2 idler bearings, the oil, and the cores for the service valves. While some have converted to -134 IMHO you are best served by staying with R-12. That is what the system was deigned for and R-12 is still obtainable albeit a bit more expensive than -134.

Red Tek from Amazon is readily available....