Window switches won't install into console

[Timebender]

Hi guys,
I recently got some replacement switches from DMC, and they work great, however when I try to get them into the console, they won't seat all the way- I noticed on my driver's side when looking down in under the center console, that it's bottoming out against some black wood. Are the new DMC ones taller than normal, or is my center console possibly sitting too low?

[Bitsyncmaster]

Yes the new DMC lighted window switches are a little longer. Most people shim the metal plate up with some wood shims.

[DMCMW Dave]

Take out the ash tray. Fabricate a couple of 1-inch thick wooden blocks from a piece of 2x2 lumber. Wedge them forward of the ash tray opening just aft of the switches. Some cars need this more than others, it really depends on how many times someone has climbed over the console to get out the other side. The fiber (paper) of the console is pretty bendy. Sags over time too.

[Timebender]

Oh- makes sense. I can't think of how many times I've just leaned on the console and felt it just give a little. Also, I was hoping to pull out the center section to replace my power port/lighter, as the current one is only showing 4.2 volts when I put a meter on it. I've taken out the rear screws and the ashtray, and the two screws behind the shifter, but the console won't budge - I'm assuming the whole middle of it is supposed to lift up and put away from the sides of the main console itself, correct? Are there any other screws or nuts I should be looking for that are still holding it in place, short of removing the whole console itself?

[DMCMW Dave]

Oh- makes sense. I can't think of how many times I've just leaned on the console and felt it just give a little. Also, I was hoping to pull out the center section to replace my power port/lighter, as the current one is only showing 4.2 volts when I put a meter on it. I've taken out the rear screws and the ashtray, and the two screws behind the shifter, but the console won't budge - I'm assuming the whole middle of it is supposed to lift up and put away from the sides of the main console itself, correct? Are there any other screws or nuts I should be looking for that are still holding it in place, short of removing the whole console itself?

No, the only way to remove the center section is to take the entire console out of the car and turn it over. The console is held in by 4 nuts (2 under the shift plate, 2 under the little tray at the back) and some brackets under the kneepads.

You don't need to remove the console to replace the lighter. Do it all through the ash tray opening.

[Timebender]

You don't need to remove the console to replace the lighter. Do it all through the ash tray opening.

I don't get how, as even with the switches pulled out and plugs out of the way, I can't get my hand past that area to reach the lighter.

Unless it has to be done by someone much smaller than me.

[Gregadeth]

Hi guys,
I recently got some replacement switches from DMC, and they work great, however when I try to get them into the console, they won't seat all the way- I noticed on my driver's side when looking down in under the center console, that it's bottoming out against some black wood. Are the new DMC ones taller than normal, or is my center console possibly sitting too low?
See my post here: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?15171-DMCH-Reproduction-Window-and-Defrost-Switches-Any-Experience&p=217846&viewfull=1#post217846


I don't get how, as even with the switches pulled out and plugs out of the way, I can't get my hand past that area to reach the lighter.

Unless it has to be done by someone much smaller than me.If you can't get to it through the ashtray opening, it might be easier to just remove the shifter cover and go in from that side. That's how I did mine.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Lighter issue notwithstanding if you simply want to solve the too tall switch problem installing a Mattaligner is the ultimate answer. It is a switch alignment panel that;

1) Compensates for the increased height of the DMC reproduction switches
2) Aligns the switchs more securely and precisely than the stock switch console.
3) Provides a color coded armrest pad to prevent accidental engagement of the console switchs.
4) Eliminates the need for the fitting of an inconvenient switch cover plate to prevent accidental switch operation.

Certainly a more comprehensive, though more expensive, solution than blocks of wood. It's also easier to install.
Rob

[Timebender]

Lighter issue notwithstanding if you simply want to solve the too tall switch problem installing a Mattaligner is the ultimate answer. It is a switch alignment panel that;

1) Compensates for the increased height of the DMC reproduction switches
2) Aligns the switchs more securely and precisely than the stock switch console.
3) Provides a color coded armrest pad to prevent accidental engagement of the console switchs.
4) Eliminates the need for the fitting of an inconvenient switch cover plate to prevent accidental switch operation.

Certainly a more comprehensive, though more expensive, solution than blocks of wood. It's also easier to install.
Rob

I actually have one of those, and here's my unsolicited review...
The Good...
A. It does align the switches nicely, and they all pop into it well.
B. It looks nice.

The not so good..
A. The little screws it comes with to mount it to the console are too small for the hole made by the included drill bit, and they're too short, so the don't hold the piece down, which...
B. Once the switches are installed, the whole unit keeps popping up away from the console, and has the be pushed back down constantly. Either a smaller bit should be used to drill the mounting holes, or use slightly larger screws. Maybe even self-tapping machine screws would be good.
C. The gray bumper that comes with the unit gets dirty quickly, and shows any grime as One's arm drags across it constantly when shifting, as it shows skin oils, then it gets darker along the edge.

Otherwise it's a good solution that just needs some tweaks.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

I actually have one of those, and here's my unsolicited review...
The Good...
A. It does align the switches nicely, and they all pop into it well.
B. It looks nice.

The not so good..
A. The little screws it comes with to mount it to the console are too small for the hole made by the included drill bit, and they're too short, so the don't hold the piece down, which...
B. Once the switches are installed, the whole unit keeps popping up away from the console, and has the be pushed back down constantly. Either a smaller bit should be used to drill the mounting holes, or use slightly larger screws. Maybe even self-tapping machine screws would be good.
C. The gray bumper that comes with the unit gets dirty quickly, and shows any grime as One's arm drags across it constantly when shifting, as it shows skin oils, then it gets darker along the edge.

Otherwise it's a good solution that just needs some tweaks.

I'd like to address your concerns in order;

A) The bit we supply is 3/32" which normally works perfectly to predrill the hole for threading. I've personnally installed dozens without those problems and have only have heard of only one other retention issue early on before we supplied the drill bit along with the screws.

B) The screws we use are 4-40 x 3/8" which in all known cases is sufficient reach to secure the plate despite any console distortions encontoured. I think we used a 1/4" length on the earliest examples which may explain your issue. BTW they are selftapping machine screws but you still need to start with a pilot hole. A 3/32" bit is just big enough to allow the self tapping feature to work and makes for a surprisingly strong thread. To my knowledge both of these issues were resolved after the first few units were delivered and have not heard anyone having this issue since. The screws are neccessarely small however and I imagine it is very possible to strip them if they are overtightened.

C) I agree the grey pad does stain easily but is made from "abrasion resistent" rubber which cleans easily with a little soap and water. The black rubber pad does not have that issue but is not as dense and benefits from a drop or two of superglue to lock it in place. The grey pad holds its postion better and does not need any glue so it can be removed for cleaning easily.

We are always looking to improve our products where possible and would appreciate any suggestions/onservations on your part. Your first two issues have to my knowldge been addressed and I welcome feedback both good and bad on these or any other concerns.
Rob

[Ron]

Depending on how much more room you need, you might try:
-Pull the switch up.
-Record the order the wires connect to the switch.
-Unplug the switch.
-Remove the plug by pressing small tabs on connectors. (Stow away/discard it.)
-Cover the wire connector ends with heat shrink.
-Connect wires to switch as recorded.
-Install switch.

Worked for several of us....

[Bitsyncmaster]

Depending on how much more room you need, you might try:
-Pull the switch up.
-Record the order the wires connect to the switch.
-Unplug the switch.
-Remove the plug by pressing small tabs on connectors. (Stow away/discard it.)
-Cover the wire connector ends with heat shrink.
-Connect wires to switch as recorded.
-Install switch.

Worked for several of us....

I soldered wires onto the switch pins and put a connector on those wires. That way there is no connector on the bottom of the switch.

[Ron]

I like that that.

Sounds like another plug'n play item you could market... ;)

[Bitsyncmaster]

I like that that.

Sounds like another plug'n play item you could market... ;)

I used a different connector. You would need to find a mating pin connector for the stock sockets.

[Ron]

I used a different connector. You would need to find a mating pin connector for the stock sockets.Ah... In that case, I'll probably stick with Un-Plug'n Play. :deviltail:

[Timebender]

Depending on how much more room you need, you might try:
-Pull the switch up.
-Record the order the wires connect to the switch.
-Unplug the switch.
-Remove the plug by pressing small tabs on connectors. (Stow away/discard it.)
-Cover the wire connector ends with heat shrink.
-Connect wires to switch as recorded.
-Install switch.

Worked for several of us....

Good idea and easy fix.

[Timebender]

I'd like to address your concerns in order;

A) The bit we supply is 3/32" which normally works perfectly to predrill the hole for threading. I've personnally installed dozens without those problems and have only have heard of only one other retention issue early on before we supplied the drill bit along with the screws.

B) The screws we use are 4-40 x 3/8" which in all known cases is sufficient reach to secure the plate despite any console distortions encontoured. I think we used a 1/4" length on the earliest examples which may explain your issue. BTW they are selftapping machine screws but you still need to start with a pilot hole. A 3/32" bit is just big enough to allow the self tapping feature to work and makes for a surprisingly strong thread. To my knowledge both of these issues were resolved after the first few units were delivered and have not heard anyone having this issue since. The screws are neccessarely small however and I imagine it is very possible to strip them if they are overtightened.

C) I agree the grey pad does stain easily but is made from "abrasion resistent" rubber which cleans easily with a little soap and water. The black rubber pad does not have that issue but is not as dense and benefits from a drop or two of superglue to lock it in place. The grey pad holds its postion better and does not need any glue so it can be removed for cleaning easily.

We are always looking to improve our products where possible and would appreciate any suggestions/onservations on your part. Your first two issues have to my knowldge been addressed and I welcome feedback both good and bad on these or any other concerns.
Rob

Thanks Rob- yes the screws are very short- so most likely from the first bunch sent out. It's like they just weren't long enough to reach.
I'll swing by my local hardware store to get some longer ones as soon as i can- have to head out to D.C. for the week and thus won't get to play with or drive the DeLorean.

But overall a nicely made product and just some small "bugs" with it- but it is nice that it blocks accidental button pushing...

[jawn101]

+1 to the Mattaligner. Perfect solution to the problem. Was surprised how easily it installed and how thoroughly it corrected the issues. I might have omitted the raised anti-bump lip in a perfect world as it looks a little weird. But its function is clear and it does a good job of it.