All liners are STUCK

[txdmc]

I have my engine torn down, during this process i took the pistons out of the liner sleeves after no sucess with removing the liners. I was fully expecting and hoping to dislodge the liner sleeves when i removed the heads. well that did not happen, turning the crank with the pistons still attached did not work, so I just took the pistons out. they are labeled to go with the correct sleeve.

Now I had the block washed in one of the dishwasher type machines, yea great its not greasy anymore. Those darn sleeves are still in there! I have tried heat from a torch.... no movement......

I attemped to use a hammer then realized I had better stop before this gets worse.

Any ideas?

[Delorean Industries]

Are you replacing the liners completely? If you have put any heat to the bottom leading edge where it contacts the block this will warp the liners out of round beyond use. Best way if you are not going to reuse is to use a brass drift to knock the liner free.

[Jason]

I made a special tool that fit on top of the liners but inside the cylinder hole and then used a shop press to push out the liners.

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?4747-stuck-cylinder-liners&p=67647&viewfull=1#post67647

[txdmc]

yes i did put some heat to it for a minuet, still nothing. I sprayed some pb blaster in there and let it soak, still nothing. So if i remove the liners I cannot reuse them?

When i sprayed the PB blaster and let it sit nothing leaked through, so these liners must be in there good.

[Delorean Industries]

Liners are roughly .070 at the base where they are seated in the block. Any direct heat to this area without applying to the entire part (IE during engine operation) will distort the liner. At this point we have taken apart hundreds of PRV's (nearing 1000 actually) and I can count on one hand the number of times liners were stuck to a degree like Jason posted above. All of the engines with stuck liners were either boosted BAE/island cars or known to have been over heated heavily. I would be looking for liners at this point. What do the piston skirts look like? Any broken ring lans?

Sales pitch part: we make very high quality but expensive piston/liner sets. You can beat the heck out of these with lots of boost. But... Check out Ed Uding at DeLorean Europe. He has a released a new liner/piston set up for owners looking for OEM performance.

[txdmc]

this is the no 6 piston, this one has the most severe marking, the other ones had a little less than this.

52227

[Delorean Industries]

That is a bad sign. How are your bearings?

[txdmc]

Can't get a photo now. But both have some scoring to them


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[David T]

The best way to determine what you can reuse (if anything) is to take all of the parts to a good machine shop and have it all examined and measured. With scoring on the piston like that you will not be reusing that one at least! Once you know what can be reused and what cannot you start pricing parts. It often can be less expensive to replace parts rather than have machine work done on your old stuff. Even with new parts there is some amount of machine work. For example you may want to have all of the moving parts balanced. That would be the piston assemblies, crank and flywheel. You may want the con rods bead blasted. It is done for stress relief. Talk to the machine shop and see what else you want to do.

[txdmc]

Ok here is a picture of part of the main bearing and part of the rod bearing. Suddenly im thinking that new pistons and sleeves are in my future...... I guess ill just have to knock out the sleeves and see how the mating surface is with the block....... DAMN!

main
52228

rod
52229

[txdmc]

Also this is a 100k engine


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[txdmc]

some pb blast soak and some hammer broke them all lose, the worst ones were the cylinder 1 and 4. anyways in the hammering i slipped and did this, am i now looking at having to get a new block because i was an idiot? the liner mating surface didnt have any pitting, it was all caked on coolant mud.

52316

[David T]

That can be filed out. Now that you said 100K figure all bearings, pistons, and rings. The liners must be measured and possibly replaced. The crank and con rods must be measured. A complete gasket set and rebuild the heads.All of the accessories (water pump, oil pump, alternator) have to be rebuilt or replaced. It might be less expensive to buy a good used motor or maybe even a Stage 11 if you want more performance. Before you commit to getting parts and machine work you need to price stuff up and decide what to do. If you have to rework a lot of parts and/or replace a lot of parts it gets expensive enough that it can be cheaper to just get another motor. There are enough used motors around that you can get a deal. With people doing engine swaps there are motors out there to be had with much less than 100,000 miles. At the worst you may have to do a head job.

[txdmc]

Thanks for the reply! Yes I figured that I'm going to get a new piston liner set from DMC Europe.


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