Replacing Rear Flex Brake Lines

[ritztoys]

Fellow Owners,
Are there any tricks or additional suggestions to replacing these lines? I have been able to remove/replace the LR Flex line, but the one on the RR is a major PITA to reach much less remove.(there are 2 cooling lines and an A/C line here @ this location)
I've removed the 'splash panel' and was able to remove the Flex line from the trailing arm fixture, but the other end...........impossible!
Any suggestions to remove any additional parts(s) would be very helpful. My hands are killing me! :ohcrap:

[David T]

Fellow Owners,
Are there any tricks or additional suggestions to replacing these lines? I have been able to remove/replace the LR Flex line, but the one on the RR is a major PITA to reach much less remove.(there are 2 cooling lines and an A/C line here @ this location)
I've removed the 'splash panel' and was able to remove the Flex line from the trailing arm fixture, but the other end...........impossible!
Any suggestions to remove any additional parts(s) would be very helpful. My hands are killing me! :ohcrap:

If you have removed the locknut and the hose is stuck in the frame, just get a hammer and pound it out. Since you are replacing it, it doesn't matter if you damage it.

[ritztoys]

If you have removed the locknut and the hose is stuck in the frame, just get a hammer and pound it out. Since you are replacing it, it doesn't matter if you damage it.
Hello David,
Thanks for your reply, I don't think I can 'swing' a hammer in the cavity (inside frame located next to transmission) Yes, all fasteners have been removed, the Flex line is very tight in it's holding place(hex holder) other than hopefully getting Vise Grips to reach, I hope to wiggle it out. There's just so little room there, for tools much less my hands!

I miss spoke before, the right side(on the frame) has all the cooling lines right under this location, making any work there very frustrating.

Would removing said cooling lines make this job any easier? Or can they flex enough to get out of the way?

[Mark D]

I had a hard time with the flex lines where they mounted to the trailing arms...that thin metal was too easy to bend and the epoxy liked to crack. I ended up using a big C clamp and a stack of washers to press the fittings out.

The other end of the flex line through the frame I just hammered out after cutting the end of the flex line short up to the fitting. I think using a hammer tends to be a pretty common method and unless you're a total caveman with your technique you should be able to avoid damaging any paint around the fitting. If you tap the opposite end from the sides a few times first that can help loosen it up and expand the hex shaped cup that is welded to the frame.

From what I saw on my car it looked like the frame epoxy was somewhat soft when the flex lines were installed and the hex portion of the fitting was squashed down into the epoxy as it finally cured.

[ritztoys]

I had a hard time with the flex lines where they mounted to the trailing arms...that thin metal was too easy to bend and the epoxy liked to crack. I ended up using a big C clamp and a stack of washers to press the fittings out.

The other end of the flex line through the frame I just hammered out after cutting the end of the flex line short up to the fitting. I think using a hammer tends to be a pretty common method and unless you're a total caveman with your technique you should be able to avoid damaging any paint around the fitting. If you tap the opposite end from the sides a few times first that can help loosen it up and expand the hex shaped cup that is welded to the frame.

From what I saw on my car it looked like the frame epoxy was somewhat soft when the flex lines were installed and the hex portion of the fitting was squashed down into the epoxy as it finally cured.

Thanks Mark,
The Flex line "bolts" came out OK on my trailing arms, but the attachment point to the frame has been very frustrating to remove said lines.

On the drivers side I was able to attach a Vice Grip on the metal part and wiggle back and forth(with penetrating oil) and finally came out.

The passenger side has all those cooling hoses(right under this location) where the Flex line attaches to the frame.

Is there really enough room to "swing" a hammer inside the area where the Flex line attaches to the rigid brake line?

I don't think I could get a deep C Clamp in there to push out the metal end of the brake line, what do you guys think?(haven't tried this yet, just thinking of ways to get it out)

[John U]

Worked every time for me

[ritztoys]

Worked every time for me
Thanks John,
Looks like a very useful tool, although I have removed the 'swing arm end' of the brake flex line, where this would have been great to use.

My issue is removing the end from the frame center mounting. Several have said to use a hammer (in this cavity) to knock out the end of the flex line.

I've had to rest for a few days to heal from 'thin-skinned' bruises, will attempt to swing a hammer in the cavity soon.

[Chris4099]

Is there really enough room to "swing" a hammer inside the area where the Flex line attaches to the rigid brake line?


I had a similar issue. What I did both on my D and another during a tech session was to put the nut back on, but only a few threads. This gives you a large surface to hammer against. I then took a large wrench and put the open end against the nut. This allowed me to swing the hammer below the car against the wrench which then transferred the blows to the line fitting. Took a lot of hammering, but they eventually came out.

[John U]

I though you were referring to the other end.
Not sure how I removed it....probably have blocked out that traumatic memory!

[Roberto]

Suggest that you put some grease in there when replacing hose to make it easier to remove next time.
52459

(image is upside down)
Robert
Belfast

[David T]

By the time you will be replacing the brake lines again that grease will have dried up and hardened. All it will do is attract dirt and moisture. Forget the grease.

[ritztoys]

I had a similar issue. What I did both on my D and another during a tech session was to put the nut back on, but only a few threads. This gives you a large surface to hammer against. I then took a large wrench and put the open end against the nut. This allowed me to swing the hammer below the car against the wrench which then transferred the blows to the line fitting. Took a lot of hammering, but they eventually came out.
Thanks Chris4099,

I'll keep that option in mind, when I attempt removing that last nut and the end of flex brake line into the side of the chassis.

Thank-you all owners for your suggestions, this is really an easy car to work on! (I just keep telling myself this to get through it)

[ritztoys]

The other end of the flex line through the frame I just hammered out after cutting the end of the flex line short up to the fitting. I think using a hammer tends to be a pretty common method and unless you're a total caveman with your technique you should be able to avoid damaging any paint around the fitting. If you tap the opposite end from the sides a few times first that can help loosen it up and expand the hex shaped cup that is welded to the frame.

Fellow Owners,
First of all, I conquered this project, finally! :bigclap: Thanks for your suggestion Mark D.

Here's how this went.........'Splash pan' must be removed or you'll be talking loudly to yourself! Then pull away from the frame the A/C return line(which rests on top of the heater hoses), then get 'channel lock' pliers to grab the metal part of the flex line coming out of the frame side(between all those hoses), spray penetrating oil on the connection and 'wiggle' those pliers for the next several hours!!

I also did use my caveman abilities and hit this connection from the outside(before attaching pliers) with 1/2 socket extensions from below, in front, and from behind. This helped loosen the "hex fitting" around the brake line and I was eventually able to use my hands and finally remove this flex brake line.

I'm so damn happy, brake system has been rebuilt and no more caliper 'hanging up'.

[Mark D]

Hey that's great to hear you got the old fittings hammered out and the rest of the brake system rebuilt. Hope you're enjoying the nice smooth stops :wrenchin:

[ritztoys]

Hey that's great to hear you got the old fittings hammered out and the rest of the brake system rebuilt. Hope you're enjoying the nice smooth stops :wrenchin:

My brakes are really good now, but I ask the question; I have Herveys MC on my system, should I get my old original one rebuilt and replace with the new original?

[DMC-81]

My brakes are really good now, but I ask the question; I have Herveys MC on my system, should I get my old original one rebuilt and replace with the new original?

I originally bought Herverys M/C but when I learned the proportioning in that unit is 50/50, I bought a new original one which is 68/32 (rear/front). My rationale was, aside from maintaining the original engineering, our cars are not known for having a strong front suspension. I found this video of the front end in action. Notice the flex under braking:

https://youtu.be/CMHO4Aydk04

So, I didn't want to increase the braking using a M/C unit that was designed for a Saab or something like that. I think that unit would be good once the front end is strengthened with new LCA's and outriggers, etc.

That's just my opinion.

[ritztoys]

I originally bought Herverys M/C but when I learned the proportioning in that unit is 50/50, I bought a new original one which is 68/32 (rear/front). My rationale was, aside from maintaining the original engineering, our cars are not known for having a strong front suspension. I found this video of the front end in action. Notice the flex under braking:

https://youtu.be/CMHO4Aydk04

So, I didn't want to increase the braking using a M/C unit that was designed for a Saab or something like that. I think that unit would be good once the front end is strengthened with new LCA's and outriggers, etc.

That's just my opinion.

Thanks for your opinion, I value your information as you have, been there, done that!

I won't be replacing my LCA's or the outriggers for a little while, based on your experience I'll replace Herveys M/C with an original. That video is kinda scary, stay away from 'chuck-holes'.

[Nuclearbacon]

Crows foot!!! They literally saved me when replacing all my brake lines. I was able to set the crows foot, then get my ratchet in there and pop!

[ritztoys]

Crows foot!!! They literally saved me when replacing all my brake lines. I was able to set the crows foot, then get my ratchet in there and pop!

I saw that this was going to be a horrible "cussing session", so I went to Harbor Freight and purchased 'crows feet'. Those tools were worth every penny, I got both types for <$25 total.

Now after completing that brake job all is well, with new tools!

My motto is; "Any excuse to buy a new tool"

[Nuclearbacon]

"any excuse to buy a new tool"

exactly!

[BadCompany]

A brake line wrench style crows foot is what I used.....worked great....

[ritztoys]

A brake line wrench style crows foot is what I used.....worked great....

A very good tool, yes. Although there are a few places in this brake rebuild where this wouldn't fit for nothin'. This is why I purchased both styles of "crows Feet", one to really grab the brake line, the other to easily remove said brake fitting.