Rajay (BAE) turbo rebuild stupid question

[RamblinDMC]

I'm in the process of attempting to rebuild the Rajay (BAE) turbo for #2203. I'm to the last screw that I have to remove so that the compressor housing can come off. However. I can't do that because the oil feed line 90 degree fitting is in the way. I cannot remove it because the fitting hits the housing. How do I get around this? Am I overlooking something really simple here?

-Jayce

[Delta DeLorean]

I'm in the process of attempting to rebuild the Rajay (BAE) turbo for #2203. I'm to the last screw that I have to remove so that the compressor housing can come off. However. I can't do that because the oil feed line 90 degree fitting is in the way. I cannot remove it because the fitting hits the housing. How do I get around this? Am I overlooking something really simple here?

-Jayce

Hello
Yes , it is easy, the oil feed line is not one part, but two. That is way there are two places where you can put a wrench on it. If you turn the fitting loose you will find that the 90 degree part can turn free. And that you can take the elbow of. Then you can take the lower part out, using a socket to turn it would be easy.
Put a large screwdriver inside the 90 degree elbow, so you don't damage the threat against the housing when you undo the top fitting.

[RamblinDMC]

Got it, thanks!

Now I'm at the part where I have to remove the compressor nut. Any tips on doing that?


-Jayce

[SS Spoiler]

Looking good Jayce...

[FABombjoy]

Now I'm at the part where I have to remove the compressor nut. Any tips on doing that?
Typically they're reverse threaded, so that's an important tidbit :D

You definitely want to use as perfectly sized wrenches as possible. I would clamp the center section in a vice so you can focus on getting good leverage.

Depending on your personal beliefs regarding assembly balancing -vs- component balancing, you might want to mark orientation so it can be reassembled in the same orientation.

What style carbon seal do these Rajay turbos use? Is it a single encapsulated or a multi-piece seal integrated into the backplate?

[RamblinDMC]

I know next to nothing about different kinds turbochargers. I have never owned a turbo equipped car before. Hopefully, assuming I don't break anything, I'll be changing that soon!
Once I finish this rebuild, I'll do a write up here on the forum documenting the whole process. There's very little info out there on rebuilding this turbo.

[David T]

I know next to nothing about different kinds turbochargers. I have never owned a turbo equipped car before. Hopefully, assuming I don't break anything, I'll be changing that soon!
Once I finish this rebuild, I'll do a write up here on the forum documenting the whole process. There's very little info out there on rebuilding this turbo.

You really should send it out to be rebuilt. The housings may need work, the impellers may need work, and there is no way you can balance it. This is not just a simple unbolt and bolt on kind of job.

[RamblinDMC]

You really should send it out to be rebuilt. The housings may need work, the impellers may need work, and there is no way you can balance it. This is not just a simple unbolt and bolt on kind of job.

I didn't want to spend the money to have it rebuilt, and plus this is a learning experience. I'm an engineering student who also works for GM and I'm not afraid of a challenge. It will balanced locally when I'm done rebuilding.



I was told the same kind of thing when I was rebuilding my transmission shift governor-computer. In the end, I fixed it for $7 when everyone else told me to just spend the $300 for a new one from DMC.

[FABombjoy]

You really should send it out to be rebuilt. The housings may need work, the impellers may need work, and there is no way you can balance it. This is not just a simple unbolt and bolt on kind of job.
If there's no obvious damage I wouldn't be too concerned about balance.



I didn't want to spend the money to have it rebuilt, and plus this is a learning experience.

Right on! My own T3 was "professionally rebuilt". I had to re-rebuild it because the professional screwed up the carbon seal installation in a manner that isn't obvious unless you have specific experience in draw-through turbo setups (like the BAE). The "professional" also installed a compressor wheel that was interference fit to the turbine shaft which was a pleasant discovery.

The important question is: Why are you rebuilding it?

An even importanter question: Would you be interested in a set of BAE intake adapters that are set up for improved PCV and water injection? :D

[David T]

If you are doing it for the challenge and the learning experience that's great. And as long as you have planned to have it balanced. If you see no damage to the housings or the impellers you are probably OK but the damage isn't always obvious. I assume you are rebuilding because you see oil on the air output side. Make sure you have the right kit. Because the BAE is a "Pull Through" the turbo is subjected to vacuum as well as positive pressure so you must have the correct kit of parts and they must be installed correctly. In general I do advise not to rebuild the turbo, it often isn't economical because they will charge almost as much just to balance it.

[RamblinDMC]

If there's no obvious damage I wouldn't be too concerned about balance.




Right on! My own T3 was "professionally rebuilt". I had to re-rebuild it because the professional screwed up the carbon seal installation in a manner that isn't obvious unless you have specific experience in draw-through turbo setups (like the BAE). The "professional" also installed a compressor wheel that was interference fit to the turbine shaft which was a pleasant discovery.

The important question is: Why are you rebuilding it?

An even importanter question: Would you be interested in a set of BAE intake adapters that are set up for improved PCV and water injection? :D


What should I look out for when installing the carbon seal as it pertains to the BAE turbo/draw through setups? Is it not just as simple as installing it in the correct orientation? Any help is gladly appreciated.
I'm rebuilding it because it is leaking oil around the compressor housing and it smells of burnt oil. Also, from my understanding it was burning oil. There is no shaft play or damage to the impellers and housings. I'm also rebuilding it for the learning experience. It seems I always have to be occupied with a little project after work/school. :)
Last year I purchased the setup from SS Spoiler (Thank you again!) and I'm just now getting around to refurbishing the components for installation on my car.

I'm currently taking Thermodynamics and all the practice problems on turbines got me thinking of this project. Additionally, I've always wanted to enter into the foray of turbocharging and why not go all out? :)

For now my goal is to just get the turbo installed on the car, later I'll be doing some mods to modernize the setup.

[FABombjoy]

What should I look out for when installing the carbon seal as it pertains to the BAE turbo/draw through setups?
I've never taken a Rajay apart, but Garrett used either an "encapsulated" seal which is a sealed unit that is pressed in/out of the backplate, or a multi-piece seal that is integrated into the backplate. The press in/out type need to be pressed in with Loctite 515 or they will continue to draw oil around the seal. The type with a seal, spring, etc won't have this extra air channel and shouldn't require any special precautions or sealant.


I'm rebuilding it because it is leaking oil around the compressor housing and it smells of burnt oil. Also, from my understanding it was burning oil. There is no shaft play or damage to the impellers and housings.
My opinions, based on my own experience with building a T3 draw-through setup:

Aftermarket turbo cars with oil in the intake are almost always due to problems with the drain setup. Oil needs to leave the turbo ASAP and with no restriction. I can't believe DMC/BAE kits didn't leak oil into the compressor housing from day one. Every BAE setup I've seen has the center section clocked at 4:30 instead of 6. I've also seen BAE drains hoses with J traps. The drain hose is 5/8" (-10AN) which is the bare minimum for this size of turbo. The turbo is fairly low mount which doesn't give you much room for error. If you have any positive crankcase pressure the drain could slow down or back up.

The BAE drain location on lower crankcase dumps right into the oil deflector tray, another negative for a clear drain path.

If you have no shaft play and something isn't obviously wrong on the inside, you should consider tweaking the drain setup to be more optimal ( to further your studies :) )

Full disclosure: I've never examined a Rajay turbo up close. Maybe they have some kind of angled / funneled drain or are unusually tolerant of oil pooling. I'd certainly be curious to see some real high res pics of one disassembled.

[David T]

What should I look out for when installing the carbon seal as it pertains to the BAE turbo/draw through setups? Is it not just as simple as installing it in the correct orientation? Any help is gladly appreciated.
I'm rebuilding it because it is leaking oil around the compressor housing and it smells of burnt oil. Also, from my understanding it was burning oil. There is no shaft play or damage to the impellers and housings. I'm also rebuilding it for the learning experience. It seems I always have to be occupied with a little project after work/school. :)
Last year I purchased the setup from SS Spoiler (Thank you again!) and I'm just now getting around to refurbishing the components for installation on my car.

I'm currently taking Thermodynamics and all the practice problems on turbines got me thinking of this project. Additionally, I've always wanted to enter into the foray of turbocharging and why not go all out? :)

For now my goal is to just get the turbo installed on the car, later I'll be doing some mods to modernize the setup.

If there are no signs of oil leaking internally and there is no end play or run-out, it probably doesn't need to be rebuilt. If all of your leaks are external it is either a gasket or a fitting or a hose leaking. The reasons to rebuild are the bearings are worn (indicated by run-out and end play) causing the seals to leak. When it gets bad enough the impellers touch the housing causing damage to the housings and the impellers. Clean it up and reseal the external oil connections and you are probably OK. Use Never Seize on all of your exhaust hardware and new gaskets. When running a turbo you should replace the oil and filter more often and use a synthetic oil that can take the higher temperatures. You must use the highest octane fuel you can find and be very alert to any detonation. Don't let the boost go over 5 lbs. Never let the motor run too lean or with too much timing advance. Do you have the BAE docs? Make sure your install is as correct as you can make it at least initially. This set-up has no intercooler. It is not meant for it to be "on boost" continuously. Consider a boost gauge and an A/F gauge. There is no knock sensor to retard the timing to protect the motor so be careful. For optimal operation you should wrap the exhaust plumbing to the turbo and the turbo with heat wrap. Make sure nothing is close to the exhaust plumbing or the turbo like wiring of fuel or anything else, that stuff gets HOT! Make sure the distributor is set up correctly per the BAE docs.

[RamblinDMC]

If there are no signs of oil leaking internally and there is no end play or run-out, it probably doesn't need to be rebuilt. If all of your leaks are external it is either a gasket or a fitting or a hose leaking. The reasons to rebuild are the bearings are worn (indicated by run-out and end play) causing the seals to leak. When it gets bad enough the impellers touch the housing causing damage to the housings and the impellers. Clean it up and reseal the external oil connections and you are probably OK. Use Never Seize on all of your exhaust hardware and new gaskets. When running a turbo you should replace the oil and filter more often and use a synthetic oil that can take the higher temperatures. You must use the highest octane fuel you can find and be very alert to any detonation. Don't let the boost go over 5 lbs. Never let the motor run too lean or with too much timing advance. Do you have the BAE docs? Make sure your install is as correct as you can make it at least initially. This set-up has no intercooler. It is not meant for it to be "on boost" continuously. Consider a boost gauge and an A/F gauge. There is no knock sensor to retard the timing to protect the motor so be careful. For optimal operation you should wrap the exhaust plumbing to the turbo and the turbo with heat wrap. Make sure nothing is close to the exhaust plumbing or the turbo like wiring of fuel or anything else, that stuff gets HOT! Make sure the distributor is set up correctly per the BAE docs.


Thanks for the info. I'm fully aware of the dangers of turbocharging. I'm going to play it safe and keep the boost low. I do have the BAE docs and a used distributor configured for the turbo. I am planning to install a boost gauge along with an AFR gauge. In the near future, after I graduate college and start working, I also plan on converting the engine to EFI+electronic ignition so that I have more control. It may also be a good idea to mount a drip tank with a small pump under the turbo. But I'm getting ahead of myself. Right now the task at hand is rebuilding the turbo itself. :) I appreciate everyone's input and help so far. Tonight I'm going to try to remove the compressor nut.

[FABombjoy]

It may also be a good idea to mount a drip tank with a small pump under the turbo.
I upsized to 3/4" hose and ran straight into the side of the pan, and clear tubing showed this was enough, although I may graft on a 300 to 500mL vented drip tank for really really cold mornings. I'm also redoing PCV to ensure crankcase pressure is never an issue again.

I desperately did not want to run a scavenge pump as it seemed like another thing to go wrong :D

[David T]

I upsized to 3/4" hose and ran straight into the side of the pan, and clear tubing showed this was enough, although I may graft on a 300 to 500mL vented drip tank for really really cold mornings. I'm also redoing PCV to ensure crankcase pressure is never an issue again.

I desperately did not want to run a scavenge pump as it seemed like another thing to go wrong :D

If the turbo is being flooded by oil, one possible solution is to put a restrictor into the feed hose to reduce the amount of oil going to the turbo. If crankcase pressure is a problem you may have too much blow-by because you blew a piston from too much boost. Using multi-grade synthetic oil you should not have cold starting problems. If it is that cold stay off the boost till the motor gets up to operating temp.

[FABombjoy]

If the turbo is being flooded by oil, one possible solution is to put a restrictor into the feed hose to reduce the amount of oil going to the turbo.
Normally a journal bearing turbo should not need a restrictor. A ball bearing turbo perhaps. However on a PRV engine might be a good idea.

With a -AN4 feedline I tested cold/hot pressures at orifice sizes of .030, .045, .060. Even at .030 I measured 10psi/RPM. You won't really find any published specifications, though, other than a rule of thumb of at least 10psi/1000RPM.


If crankcase pressure is a problem you may have too much blow-by because you blew a piston from too much boost.
You say this a lot, like in practically every turbo thread on this forum. Do you have pics of a blown piston? Have you ever pulled down and analyzed a turbo motor for the failure mode? I've only found a single photo of a damaged piston in some Legend docs. In that case it was a broken #2 ringland, but they were testing as high as 14psi (sometimes on otherwise stock engines) and the failure conditions were not explicitly stated. Suffice it to say they were learning and probably not being gentile about it.

Crankcase ventilation system is barely adequate on a stock PRV, completely lacking any sort of cross ventilation. Blowby needs to be dealt with correctly, especially when turbocharged. Both Island and BAE don't even have check valves on the PCV orifice valve. I would really love to see some bona-fide failure data.

[David T]

Normally a journal bearing turbo should not need a restrictor. A ball bearing turbo perhaps. However on a PRV engine might be a good idea.

With a -AN4 feedline I tested cold/hot pressures at orifice sizes of .030, .045, .060. Even at .030 I measured 10psi/RPM. You won't really find any published specifications, though, other than a rule of thumb of at least 10psi/1000RPM.


You say this a lot, like in practically every turbo thread on this forum. Do you have pics of a blown piston? Have you ever pulled down and analyzed a turbo motor for the failure mode? I've only found a single photo of a damaged piston in some Legend docs. In that case it was a broken #2 ringland, but they were testing as high as 14psi (sometimes on otherwise stock engines) and the failure conditions were not explicitly stated. Suffice it to say they were learning and probably not being gentile about it.

Crankcase ventilation system is barely adequate on a stock PRV, completely lacking any sort of cross ventilation. Blowby needs to be dealt with correctly, especially when turbocharged. Both Island and BAE don't even have check valves on the PCV orifice valve. I would really love to see some bona-fide failure data.

I have seen it. One of our club members had one that blew the ring lands. I have discussed it in detail with one of the original builders of the Island Turbo kit too. I have heard from the founder and owner of Legend Industries, Fred Dellis on that exact subject. It happened a lot which is one reason the turbos have a bad rap. Part of the problem was trying to get just a little bit more power and cranking up the pressure. Part of the problem was the way the pressure is controlled. Part of the problem is that there is no blow-off or safety system to keep the pressure from getting to high. The stock pistons are cast, not forged and can't take much abuse. If you need any confirmation about the dangers of over-boost talk to Mark Levy or Rob Grady. While the ventilation system on the PRV could use some improvement, it works till you blow a piston.

[FABombjoy]

I'm not sure how to have a real discussion on this subject when presented with platitudes, 3rd party anecdotes, etc. Hastily engineered homebrew turbo kits (with no fuel tuning and no timing control) are not representative of what is possible today. If you're going to pop into every single turbo thread and respond with regressive statements I'm not sure how we can further discourse on the subject.

[David T]

I'm not sure how to have a real discussion on this subject when presented with platitudes, 3rd party anecdotes, etc. Hastily engineered homebrew turbo kits (with no fuel tuning and no timing control) are not representative of what is possible today. If you're going to pop into every single turbo thread and respond with regressive statements I'm not sure how we can further discourse on the subject.

I have been referring to the way the original turbo systems were set up. If you want to talk about what can be done to improve them then you are correct, quite a lot. Today we have systems that can control all of the operating parameters very precisely. That wasn't available back when these turbo systems were designed and installed. Now we can control timing, boost, fuel, and auxiliary systems any way we want. Big improvement. It would mean eliminating the K-Jet fuel system but that's just the price of progress. A big undertaking for any individual though. One of the most important things you can improve is the way boost is controlled. Next would be controlling timing and then fuel. Is that the direction you are going in? You would need to use something like a Mega Squirt and program it for turbos. That means a full-blown EFI and engine management system. A BIG project.

[opethmike]

Sorry Dave, but a good EFI system is not THAT big of a project.

[FABombjoy]

Even without full blown EFI, there are interim solutions for programmable ignition, as well as programmable KJet control.

[David T]

Unless you have done a few, it is a big project for most people. As for a piecemeal solution, for what you will spend and the time it will take, IMHO it isn't worth it. And after all of that time and work the different systems won't "talk" to each other. No, the way to modernize the car is to do a full-blown EFI, especially if you want to do the turbos right.

[opethmike]

Really? Because I hadn't done one before, and it only took me a few weeks to put it together and get it tuned well through all usage of the car.

I really wish you would stop talking about things you don't actually know about Dave. That 15 minute lecture you gave me at a DMA event about ruining my car by going EFI was plenty enough, but you're still going.

[RamblinDMC]

My plan is a full electronic fuel injection + electronic ignition setup + forged internals so I can turn up the boost.
But that's all going to happen well after graduating GT. For now, I just want to get the turbo installed. I'm not concerned about making a ton of power right now.


I really don't plan on ever selling this car, I have a lot of plans for it :)

[David T]

My plan is a full electronic fuel injection + electronic ignition setup + forged internals so I can turn up the boost.
But that's all going to happen well after graduating GT. For now, I just want to get the turbo installed. I'm not concerned about making a ton of power right now.


I really don't plan on ever selling this car, I have a lot of plans for it :)

Then just get the BAE set-up to work as good as you can keeping it as "stock" and original as you can. Keep the boost to 5 lbs or below and you should be OK. Sorry you got caught in the cross-fire between me and Mike, as you can see, doing conversions can bring out strong emotions in some people. One point to mention with the BAE set-up. It is a single turbo system as opposed to the Island Turbo system which is 2 smaller turbos. With the BAE kit you will notice more turbo lag since you are using a larger turbo with more inertia, it takes just a little longer to build up boost. It is also prone to overshoot so you have to watch the pressure and not exceed your upper limit. Before experimenting with control systems you may want to try putting in a blow-off valve. Replacing the cast pistons with forged ones will get you some more boost but all you are doing is moving further down the failure chain. The next point of failure will be the transaxle input shaft. You are going to have to get the one piece shaft. Next you are going to need an intercooler.

[FABombjoy]

With the BAE kit you will notice more turbo lag since you are using a larger turbo with more inertia
You'd think the two kits would take different approaches to spark control. And yet they don't.

What if I told you that I can make 6psi by about 2600 RPM on a 60 trim turbo, which is what the Rajay is?


It is also prone to overshoot so you have to watch the pressure and not exceed your upper limit
Probably because the BAE wastegate is too small and sits perpendicular to exhaust flow. I haven't had the chance to measure it, but it looks undersized to me. I'm running a TiAL 38mm WG and boost control is spot-on. The lower the boost level, the larger the wastegate.


Before experimenting with control systems you may want to try putting in a blow-off valve
On a draw through turbo? Why, so you can introduce another boost leak? Fix the WG if you have boost creep, don't introduce yet another disparate control system.


Replacing the cast pistons with forged ones will get you some more boost
There are a lot of factory turbo motors running cast pistons. For example, most models of WRX. Late model WRX started having ringland issues and those turned out to be... the tuning!


The next point of failure will be the transaxle input shaft. You are going to have to get the one piece shaft. Next you are going to need an intercooler.
No way, you'll pop the heads off the block before you break an input shaft. 300lb/ft is the accepted safe margin (although clearly not a steadfast rule), so you're looking at doubling the amount of air into the motor to make that kind of power. Legend had commissioned new head gaskets and bolts to go with pistons.

I absolutely appreciate the Legend story and what they were able to accomplish with the technology at the time, but they weren't using some sort of magic tech or crashed-ufo-recovered-technology.

This is the formula, an extremely common formula used by engine builders everywere:
1: Add air
2: Add fuel
3: Upgrade what breaks

Legend also had some ideas that have not aged well, like using a knock detector to reduce boost pressure. Well yah, if you're going to make boost adjustments based on knock (not pre-knock like a modern system, for real full-on knock) of course you're going to need forged pistons.

But this discussion has been had before
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?4940-Re-Curve-Distributor-for-Forced-Induction&p=70875&viewfull=1#post70875

I was able to address the points in #6 in a programmable and reasonably predictable manner. It doesn't have to be EFI or nothing.

[RamblinDMC]

The overall plans I have for my car do include intercooling, and a manual trans conversion at some point.

This is what I've been calling my "10 Year Plan"

-Rebuild and Install BAE Kit
-Install EFI and Electronic Ignition
-Install an Intercooler
-Wait Several Years to Save Up Money For Next Steps. :/
-Separate body and frame
-Rebuild Engine W/ Forged Internals
-Fix rusty areas in frame + paint
-Manual Trans Conversion

These are all big steps.
And everyone has told me to just buy a manual car. However there's two reasons why I don't want to do that. 1, I'm attached to this car in particular and 2, I like doing things the hard way. :)

And good news, I have finally fully disassembled the Turbo and I have installed all of the new parts from the rebuild kit into the bearing housing. Today I'm taking it to get balanced.

Pictures to come...

[David T]

The overall plans I have for my car do include intercooling, and a manual trans conversion at some point.

This is what I've been calling my "10 Year Plan"

-Rebuild and Install BAE Kit
-Install EFI and Electronic Ignition
-Install an Intercooler
-Wait Several Years to Save Up Money For Next Steps. :/
-Separate body and frame
-Rebuild Engine W/ Forged Internals
-Fix rusty areas in frame + paint
-Manual Trans Conversion

These are all big steps.
And everyone has told me to just buy a manual car. However there's two reasons why I don't want to do that. 1, I'm attached to this car in particular and 2, I like doing things the hard way. :)

And good news, I have finally fully disassembled the Turbo and I have installed all of the new parts from the rebuild kit into the bearing housing. Today I'm taking it to get balanced.

Pictures to come...

Installing a turbo into an automatic takes a lot more effort to get it right than on a 5-speed. You have the shift points to deal with and there are only 3 of them compared to the 5-speed. You also have the torque convertor which multiplies the torque. You also have to get the vacuum advance set up to conform to the shifting and the build-up of boost. An EFI system would make all of that easier. I also think you need to reset the order of your "10 Year Plan". If you are doing all of this on a tight budget I would forget the turbo for now and concentrate on getting the basic car in order. If you don't have a donor car with a 5-speed, getting all of the parts to do the conversion can be a challenge. While the conversion can be done it isn't practical. A lot of "bits" for the shifting mechanism and the pedal box. That is why you don't see many done. Faster, cheaper, and easier to just buy and sell 2 cars.

Legend was regularly breaking input shafts after they did cams and pistons and upped the boost. I don't recall Fred saying he had trouble with heads. Strange since Lotus is pushing 350 HP through essentially the same transmission. They had to go with a double-clutch plate set-up to do it! You also have to remember Legend was trying to create a turbo set-up that DMC could warranty for a while. Tuning can go a long way to keeping the pistons from breaking but they didn't have EFI back in the late 70's-early 80's.

[FABombjoy]

Legend was regularly breaking input shafts after they did cams and pistons and upped the boost
If that's true, it's probably because they swapped to sintered copper/bronze discs while waiting for uprated Renault clutches to arrive. I'm sure they chattered like an sob could easily contribute to shock damage.

They also had been delivered cars featuring "no less than three different types of input shaft splines". Their relined metallic clutch was a 10 spline and there is probably a good reason that Renault stopped making 10 spline input shafts.

I would not take anyone's recollections as any form of evidence regarding transmission strength. The data available via 30+ years of motor swaps and modern turbo conversions is far more useful.

[David T]

If that's true, it's probably because they swapped to sintered copper/bronze discs while waiting for uprated Renault clutches to arrive. I'm sure they chattered like an sob could easily contribute to shock damage.

They also had been delivered cars featuring "no less than three different types of input shaft splines". Their relined metallic clutch was a 10 spline and there is probably a good reason that Renault stopped making 10 spline input shafts.

I would not take anyone's recollections as any form of evidence regarding transmission strength. The data available via 30+ years of motor swaps and modern turbo conversions is far more useful.

Part of the problem is the roll pin in the coupler they used to increase the length of the input shaft. No need to take my word for it, you will find out for yourself. I am trying to give you the benefit of my knowledge and experience, It is with 30 + year old technology but nonetheless it is worth something. I see no need for anyone to repeat the mistakes of the past but you are certainly welcome to repeat history if that is what you care to do.
As I see it the PRV is not the way to go. Problem is the transaxle. it severely limits your choices. If I wanted to increase the power, one swappable choice is the Lotus V-8 and Renault transaxle that Lotus modified. With it you get the 2 turbos and the GM EFI all in one piece. Of course the drivetrain is worth more than the rest of the car! Another way to go is the way Mark Levy did it with a Nissan engine I believe. It worked out well for him but it took a lot of customization.

[RamblinDMC]

Installing a turbo into an automatic takes a lot more effort to get it right than on a 5-speed. You have the shift points to deal with and there are only 3 of them compared to the 5-speed. You also have the torque convertor which multiplies the torque. You also have to get the vacuum advance set up to conform to the shifting and the build-up of boost. An EFI system would make all of that easier. I also think you need to reset the order of your "10 Year Plan". If you are doing all of this on a tight budget I would forget the turbo for now and concentrate on getting the basic car in order. If you don't have a donor car with a 5-speed, getting all of the parts to do the conversion can be a challenge. While the conversion can be done it isn't practical. A lot of "bits" for the shifting mechanism and the pedal box. That is why you don't see many done. Faster, cheaper, and easier to just buy and sell 2 cars.

Legend was regularly breaking input shafts after they did cams and pistons and upped the boost. I don't recall Fred saying he had trouble with heads. Strange since Lotus is pushing 350 HP through essentially the same transmission. They had to go with a double-clutch plate set-up to do it! You also have to remember Legend was trying to create a turbo set-up that DMC could warranty for a while. Tuning can go a long way to keeping the pistons from breaking but they didn't have EFI back in the late 70's-early 80's.

The basic car itself is 100% the way I want it to be, it's absolutely show quality. I've spent the past two years restoring the car myself to original condition after it had sat in a garage for 20 years.
I've had the kit in my possession for over a year, and I've been putting it off to complete other aspects of the car. Now that those are done, it's time for some upgrades. :)
My turbo conversion is something to help set my car apart from others.

I'm not super concerned with making a ton of power right now, I just want to get the turbo mounted up without any leaks/issues. Then I'll work on the shift points.
As of right now, yes I'm on a tight budget, but in about a year and a half I'll hopefully be working full time as a development engineer at General Motors. That's when I'll start on the whole EFI/intercooler/frame separation thing.

If I have to get a donor/parts car for my conversion, that's fine too. Or I'll just take my time collecting the necessary parts. I'm in no rush to complete all of this. It's a "10 Year Plan" after all. I know all of this is not going to be easy, but if it were easy, it wouldn't be worth doing. I could certainly just sell my DeLorean and buy a C5 or C6 Corvette, it'd be faster and more reliable. But I'm sure we all agree a DeLorean is way cooler and worth the time/frustration.

[opethmike]

I could certainly just sell my DeLorean and buy a C5 or C6 Corvette, it'd be faster and more reliable. But I'm sure we all agree a DeLorean is way cooler and worth the time/frustration.

My solution to that problem is that I own both, lol

[RamblinDMC]

My solution to that problem is that I own both, lol

Haha not a bad idea!