Wires to Door [Moved From How To Guides]

[Cummil2]

Looking for a method to run new wires to the door if possible , If not I am looking for a spare wire to install Dort popper/actuator?

[DeLorean937]

I know that Tobys kit lets you use the ground connection in the locking harness for that application but in order to do that you have to remove the T-Panel and run a wire through there up the door which would be a pain. Easiest way if I remember correctly is there is a female connector in the harness in the door, close to the mirror under the door card, that was going to be used for heated mirrors (Green/White I think) that was never put into production. You could use those wires and use them since they are running in the door already just not used. It would require you removing the T-Panel and getting into the roof harness that is sealed between the doors.

[Cummil2]

I know that Tobys kit lets you use the ground connection in the locking harness for that application but in order to do that you have to remove the T-Panel and run a wire through there up the door which would be a pain. Easiest way if I remember correctly is there is a female connector in the harness in the door, close to the mirror under the door card, that was going to be used for heated mirrors (Green/White I think) that was never put into production. You could use those wires and use them since they are running in the door already just not used. It would require you removing the T-Panel and getting into the roof harness that is sealed between the doors.

thank you , Will try this

[Rich]

.....Easiest way if I remember correctly is there is a female connector in the harness in the door, close to the mirror under the door card, that was going to be used for heated mirrors (Green/White I think) that was never put into production. You could use those wires and use them since they are running in the door already just not used....

About this wiring suggestion - any comments from vendors or those who've done a popper mod?

Do I recall that the light green/white (LGW) wire that feeds the (missing) driver mirror heater is the same LGW wire that also feeds the mirror adjust switch? If so then will the mirror switch still work if the feed end of that wire gets redirected to the output side of the popper remote relay?

Or are there two LGW wires in the driver's door fed from two different places upstream of the door hinge boot such that the mirror switch can keep its stock connection?

[Cummil2]

About this wiring suggestion - any comments from vendors or those who've done a popper mod?

Do I recall that the light green/white (LGW) wire that feeds the (missing) driver mirror heater is the same LGW wire that also feeds the mirror adjust switch? If so then will the mirror switch still work if the feed end of that wire gets redirected to the output side of the popper remote relay?

Or are there two LGW wires in the driver's door fed from two different places upstream of the door hinge boot such that the mirror switch can keep its stock connection?

Do these wires terminate in the roof or fuse box

[BLWNAWY]

I know that Tobys kit lets you use the ground connection in the locking harness for that application but in order to do that you have to remove the T-Panel and run a wire through there up the door which would be a pain. Easiest way if I remember correctly is there is a female connector in the harness in the door, close to the mirror under the door card, that was going to be used for heated mirrors (Green/White I think) that was never put into production. You could use those wires and use them since they are running in the door already just not used. It would require you removing the T-Panel and getting into the roof harness that is sealed between the doors.

Not quite, but close. As the originator of the first and I believe only remote door opener kit ever successfully marketed, now sold by Toby as "Wings Aloft", let me clarify that a bit. If, only If, you replaced your door lock solenoids with actuators, you can use the black former solenoid ground wire. Accessing it is easy - just remove the vertical carpeted panel held in place by the net hooks. At each end of that panel you can find the wiring that goes up toward the roof and to the doors. From the door side of the wiring plugs there, remove the black wire that does not have a colored band around it. Connect your remote opener leads to that wire and inside the doors connect the former ground wire to your new opener actuators. Check continuity with a meter, as often you will find that the black wire on one side of the car leads to the opposite side door.

If you did not upgrade to door lock actuators, it is a little more difficult. Remove the rear headliner, T-top panel, and the access cover under it. If you check the plugs inside the roof box below that cover, you will find yellow/white wires that come up from the doors but don't connect to anything in the other side of the plugs. You will need to run your remote opener leads up to these plugs through the same hole as the existing door loom. Find the same yellow/white wires in the door and use them, again checking continuity with a meter.

I designed my kits in the late 80's/early 90's so I may be a little fuzzy on the details after so many years. Also, others may have come up with better ways since then. I recommend just buying Toby's kits and following his detailed instructions. Go to www.delorean-parts.com.

Darryl T
formerly Specialty Automotive

[Rich]

Do these wires terminate in the roof or fuse box

According to the wiring diagram the LGW wires in both doors come from Fuse 9. And one of them supplies the mirror switch as well as the (missing) left mirror heater. According to my reading of the wiring diagram.

Fuse 9 is powered by the AUX relay (which is why the mirror switch, which is also on that wire does not work with ignition sw. OFF).

Again, I think if you set up the LGW wire in the driver's door to only deliver voltage when you pop the door then the same wire can't run the mirror switch and the mirrors the rest of the time. Try testing it out before you go cutting anything or wait for somebody here to confirm it will work somehow.

If the poppers came from a D. parts vendor then ask them for the best options.

Forum: Does anybody know if modifying the driver mirror heater wire works to trigger a door popper without losing the mirror switch function?

[BLWNAWY]

According to the wiring diagram the LGW wires in both doors come from Fuse 9. And one of them supplies the mirror switch as well as the (missing) left mirror heater. According to my reading of the wiring diagram.

Fuse 9 is powered by the AUX relay (which is why the mirror switch, which is also on that wire does not work with ignition sw. OFF).

Again, I think if you set up the LGW wire in the driver's door to only deliver voltage when you pop the door then the same wire can't run the mirror switch and the mirrors the rest of the time. Try testing it out before you go cutting anything or wait for somebody here to confirm it will work somehow.

I believe all LGW wires are hot when the key is on. As noted you can't re-purpose the one to the doors without losing the mirror function. You need to use the yellow/white or black wires as explained above.

[Rich]

I believe all LGW wires are hot when the key is on. As noted you can't re-purpose the one to the doors without losing the mirror function. You need to use the yellow/white or black wires as explained above.

Thanks, that was the confirming info I was looking to get before the OP got too far down the path of just repurposing the LGW (mirror heat and mirror switch) wire.