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Bitsyncmaster
09-08-2011, 06:39 PM
It's been 2 or 3 weeks since I have started my car. I've been so busy with the storms and building inventory. I went to start it tonight. Fuel pump primed but with the key to start there was nothing but the door open light and radio light went out with the key to start.

Stuck my battery charger on and just for the hell of it tried to start it and it started. Charger is showing 8 amps (it's a 10 amp charger). If the battery was dead it should take 5 hours to charge it. I guess I can let it sit a few days after it is charged and see how quickly my charger turns off. Maybe it's time for a new battery. It's a yellow top about 5 years old.

I am going to check that battery ground terminal that people have been finding has come unsoldered.

Jonathan
09-08-2011, 10:36 PM
Maybe it's time for a new battery. It's a yellow top about 5 years old.

The 5 year old battery part is about as far as I would look. Replace it with a new one and do the same in another 5 years. Problem solved (IMHO).

AdmiralSenn
09-09-2011, 01:12 AM
I'd have it tested before you replace it - most chain auto stores will do it for free.

And yes, definitely check your cables. Replacing mine made a HUGE difference in how the starting circuit works.

sdg3205
09-09-2011, 01:18 AM
If/when you get it tested make sure they use LEAD terminals.

If they test with with the steel bolts it will read as needing replacement.

Bitsyncmaster
09-09-2011, 04:54 AM
The fact it started the instant I put the charger on suggests a bad connection somewhere. The battery did read a little low with no load on it, about 12.0 volts. I guess the battery could have had an internal problem. It's funny it had the power to prime the pump but no click of the starter solenoid. I don't have any relays to hear them click.

Maybe it will do it again today and then I could trouble shoot it.

I was using the the radio when I was out of power at my house. I had left it on when I removed the key. The antenna and radio also worked before trying to start it.

David T
09-09-2011, 10:18 AM
The Optimium batteries do not fail like ordinary batteries. I agree the battery is probably the problem but they also seem to fail intermittently so testing it may not show it as bad. Since it is 5 years old it should be replaced anyway. I would not replace it with another Optimum. Cleaning all of the "big" connections can't hurt.
David Teitelbaum

TTait
09-09-2011, 11:54 AM
I got yellow tops because they were the best available . After going through two of them (the yellows were good for about 18 mos each) I gave up.

I'm running mid-grade batteries from interstate in both D's now - so far so good. I personally am done with those things. I'd say save your money and buy a battery cut off switch with the savings.

rddmc
09-09-2011, 02:34 PM
I have a yellow Optima with a cut off switch, it is about two years old. I bought it primarily because it is sealed and hopefully will eliminate the fume issue below the rear deck.

Rod
10921

David T
09-09-2011, 09:13 PM
Too many stories of the Optimas failing prematurely for no good reason. Sometimes paying more for new technology is not a good idea. The ordinary lead-acid batteries seem to be fine as long as you take care of them and do not deep cycle them or allow them to go dead or freeze. As for the fume issue, stick a hose on it and put the other end into the rubber elbow in the wheel well. If you do not use the car regularly use a Battery Tender for 1 day each month. A battery master switch is also a good idea. What I am also doing now is if I know I am going to use the car, the night before I put the battery charger on so I know the battery is full. This way if the alternator dies I have a full battery to try to get home on. Also helps the alternator so it doesn't have to work so hard.
David Teitelbaum

Bitsyncmaster
09-10-2011, 01:49 PM
Rather than use my battery charger, I charged the battery with my lab power supply. That lets me set constant voltage and constant current and has digital meters showing both.

I don't think my battery was very low on charge so I have to try to find the intermittent problem. I will still keep an eye on my battery with my lab supply. I just made up a charging connection via a cigarette lighter plug.

The battery draws no current at or below 13.3 volts with a full charge. I charged it with 14.0 volts and could see the current drop from 5 amps to 1.4 amps in less than one hour. It held at that 1.4 amps so I assume that is fully charged. I will run the same test on my other cars but those don't have optima batteries.

Bitsyncmaster
09-10-2011, 06:10 PM
My daily driver (2005 Malibu) charges (full charged) at 1.7 amps at 14.0 volts and drops to 0 amps at 13.1 volts. Not sure if that relates to battery condition. But if your going to keep a trickle charger on it the best would probably use a regulated voltage of about 13.0 volts.

Bitsyncmaster
09-11-2011, 09:50 AM
Found the problem. Well most likely caused the problem. The pin for starter relay signal was pushed out of the relay socket. I replaced the pin anyway because this was one of those double wire crimps but one wire was cut off with the starter modification.