Cooling fan help

[DMC3165]

I think one of my fan motors is on its way out. Unfortunately at this time I am using the car daily and I have no spare right now. It's an intermittent problem so I'm running on borrowed time but have to address it right away. The setup is original. stock fans and wiring.

I have two general questions about this. If i just want to replace the motors can it be done in the car or does the radiator and everything have to be removed. Also in a pinch I live near a local speed shop that sells all kinds of goodies like electric cooling fans and such. Has anyone tried doing something like this as opposed to a vendor setup? I have a metal radiator so mounting them shouldn't be a problem, however i would prefer just to replace the failing motor.

Suggestions?

[Cory W]

Have you tested the fan? If you connect it directly to a battery, does it turn?

Have you checked the connectors at the Fan Fail relay box? If they get loose, you'll have intermittent fan operation on one, either, or both fans.

To answer your questions, it can be done in the car, front end jacked up. You need to remove the sway bar links on the crumple tube for fan clearance. I've also removed all four rad support brackets (and supported the rad/condenser with jack stands) to get the shroud out.

If you're replacing ONE fan, and are buying new, you should consider Toby and Misty's fans (http://www.delorean-parts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=DPNW&Product_Code=K4001DP-A&Category_Code=9475). They're great, and a pair sell for about $15 more than one OEM style fan (http://www.delorean.com/store/p-7104-fan-with-adapter.aspx). Plug & Play. Uses original shroud.

A speed shop may or may not have something that works, and likely requires hacking up your front harness a bit to make it work (bye bye connectors)

[DMC3165]

I believe one of the motors is burning out. the wire insulation on one motor is burnt and the wires were very hot. The other motor seemed ok but the insulation near the housing is pulled back and the copper cores are exposed. So if i get motors i will replace both.

Dave Mckeen's awesome little Fan fail module alerted me to the problem when the dash light started flickering. It's Something every D owner should consider picking up.

[DMC3165]

Does anyone know if the electric spray they sell in auto parts stores would be good for the fan motors. I'm not sure what its called but its advertised for starters and alternators.

[Chris 16409]

Hey Chris if you want some "free" original fans to keep your car running, I've got a set I took out of my car. If I can get them in a Flat Rate Box it would either be $15 or $11 to ship depending on the box.

[DMC3165]

Hey Chris if you want some "free" original fans to keep your car running, I've got a set I took out of my car. If I can get them in a Flat Rate Box it would either be $15 or $11 to ship depending on the box.

Thanks Chris, that's a very generous offer and I appreciate it.

There's a member here that has a set about 2 hours away. I contacted him yesterday but i'm still waiting to hear back. I'll give him the weekend but if I don't hear back maybe we could do something next week.

[Chris 16409]

Chris,

Did you ever hear back from the other guy?

[DMC3165]

Yes I did. I picked them up Sunday so I'm good. Still running my old ones on a wing and a prayer until this weekend when I have time to change them. But thanks again anyway.

[Canon20DFan]

Gosh, the wires shouldn't be hot. That's a sign of increased resistance in the wires or the ground or the fan. If you're going to be in there anyway, you should get the low-amp fans already suggested and clean the grounds at the front. You don't want a fire!

Also take a voltmeter and see what kind of voltage the fan wires are giving you now...it could help you pinpoint the problem.

[DMC3165]

One of the motors is on its way out. My grounds were all replaced when the car was reconditioned 12 years ago. I like the idea of low amp fans but I'm not a big fan of the DeLorean aftermarket. My OEM units lasted 30 years and 52000 miles. I'll stick with those. If the other ones go i'm inclined to just replace the motors with Bosch units.

With any luck hopefully the fuse will blow before the motor catches fire. In the interim I'm trying not to use them.

[dmc6960]

I'm not a big fan of the DeLorean aftermarket.

DeLorean aftermarket products from any of the DMC affiliates and PJ Grady are of good and supported quality. I have DMCNW's replacement cooling fans, running them nearly daily for 5 years now, not a single problem.

[DMC3165]

DeLorean aftermarket products from any of the DMC affiliates and PJ Grady are of good and supported quality. I have DMCNW's replacement cooling fans, running them nearly daily for 5 years now, not a single problem.

Just a personal preferance based on experience. Not intended to offend anyone.

I try to keep my car as close to stock as possible. If I venture away from OEM parts its usually whatever Grady recommends but my car's lasted this long the way it is. I prefer leaving well enough alone.

[jawn101]

Just a personal preferance based on experience. Not intended to offend anyone.

I try to keep my car as close to stock as possible. If I venture away from OEM parts its usually whatever Grady recommends but my car's lasted this long the way it is. I prefer leaving well enough alone.

Fair enough for sure. But replacing the OEM fans is one place that's definitely worth considering a compromise - the inrush current those draw is really, really high. You'd keep the entire electrical system healthier as well as the car cooler by considering the modern alternatives. My 0.02 of course, there are definitely different schools of thought on reconditioning a car :thumbup:

[DMC3165]

Well what a bitch that was! I had no idea it would be a ginormous pain in the ass to change those fans. Anyway it's done and incredible thanks to my brother for helping me do this.

I would say for someone who doesn't feel like taking a whole bunch of nuts, bolts, screws, the sway bar and just about everything else in the front off all while trying to leave the radiator in the car and then playing a contortionist with the fans to put them back in, DON'T!

On another note being it was such a pain, Yes you guys were right,I should've put new low power fans in or at the very least installed new OEM motors. That sucked A** and i'm not looking forward to doing that again. Oh well every things a learning experience.

I was trying to get away cheap, but my grandfather has a great saying about stuff like this "Cheap is expensive and temporary is permanent"..........Think about it!

:banghead:

[DMC3165]

Ok just this afternoon I washed my car and went for a drive. A short time later the fan fail light stated flickering again. I think the problem is in the wiring but where????? Front looks ok the harness by the washer bottle looked good. Am I missing something?

[Cory W]

Take out whatever you have in the two fan relay spots (factory jumper wires? Relay module?) and see if the wires are in place or have pushed down. Also check the wire connections to make sure everything is tight.

How long has it been since you replaced the relays, btw? This may be a sign.

[Farrar]

Two fan relays?

Farrar

[Bitsyncmaster]

You can try to measure the voltage up at each fan when they are running. You may need to use a needle to get your meter leads connected.

[Cory W]

Two fan relays?

Farrar

I know my Joe Cool replaced the two lower left spots. Ergo, check both (just to be safe) ;)

[Farrar]

I know my Joe Cool replaced the two lower left spots. Ergo, check both (just to be safe) ;)

DOH! Forgot about Joe Cool. Brain fart -- sorry!

Farrar

[DMC3165]

Where is the fan relay located? I can't find it on the diagram for the relay compartment. I know where the blue fan fail relay is but not real sure about the other one.

The light only starts to flicker after the fans have Been on 15-20 minutes and does seem to do it more while accelerating and not while idling or with ignition off.

Also not sure if this is related or not. But my console clock periodically defaults back 12:00 for no apparent reason. And honestly I have not actually watched this happen just glanced down and noticed the time was off. My thinking is some kind of electrical issue that might tie the two together? Let me know what you guys think.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Fan Relay is right beside the fan fail.

You may have a bad clock or an electrical problem. Any other weird faults?

[DMC3165]

Fan Relay is right beside the fan fail.

You may have a bad clock or an electrical problem. Any other weird faults?

No others I can think of. Is the fan relay the same as the lambda relay? I have an extra Bosch relay that was in the lambda slot before I replaced it with the solid state unit.

[Bitsyncmaster]

No others I can think of. Is the fan relay the same as the lambda relay? I have an extra Bosch relay that was in the lambda slot before I replaced it with the solid state unit.

No don't use your old lambda relay. It is not rated for those high currents and has a different configuration. You can swap one of your headlight relays with the fan fan relay to test it.

[DMC3165]

Ok thanks Dave, i'll try that.

[Farrar]

I know where the blue fan fail relay is

The Fan Fail Module is not a relay.

Farrar

[DMC3165]

The Fan Fail Module is not a relay.

Farrar

Gottcha, that was more or less a language screw up on my part.

[Farrar]

Gottcha, that was more or less a language screw up on my part.

No problem! I just wanted to be sure everyone knows. I don't know what would happen if someone put a normal relay in that socket.

Farrar

[Bitsyncmaster]

No problem! I just wanted to be sure everyone knows. I don't know what would happen if someone put a normal relay in that socket.

Farrar

It would not hurt anything but you would not have working fans.

[Chris 16409]

Hey Chris, are you running the original blue Fan Fail Module or Dave's solid state alternative? If you're running an original fan fail unit, you should remove it. DMCH doesn't support this anymore. They are notorious for failure. If I've missed something with you setup then disregard.

[DMC3165]

I have Dave's replacement solid state unit.

I was at Grady's today for an unrelated problem. He gave me an OEM fan relay to test that theroy and it made no difference. So back to square one I guess.

One thing I did notice was with the fan fail light on both fans are on? So something else maybe? A short somewhere? This is driving me nuts.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I have Dave's replacement solid state unit.

I was at Grady's today for an unrelated problem. He gave me an OEM fan relay to test that theroy and it made no difference. So back to square one I guess.

One thing I did notice was with the fan fail light on both fans are on? So something else maybe? A short somewhere? This is driving me nuts.

How long is the flash? How often?

You can program the current compair to off. Then it just checks that each fan is drawing more than 2 or 3 amps each.

[DMC3165]

How long is the flash? How often?

You can program the current compair to off. Then it just checks that each fan is drawing more than 2 or 3 amps each.

Oddly enough it was giving me 2 short flashes followed by a break and 2 flashes again. But it was intermittent, not a constant event. That's why I assumed it was a short somewhere like a loose or wet wire. After changing the fan relay this afternoon it was intermittent at first and then the light was on solid the whole time when the fans were on. That's when I peaked underneath to see if the fans were on or not and they were. So tomorrow I will put back in my bosch relay and try to reset the fan fail unit?

Is there another device in the car which also works that light? Near the washer bottle? Maybe that has gone bad? Until recently all those circuits have been disconnected for many years. Maybe I should just put the "Y" jumper back in for a little while? I like the idea of having the light working but if finding the fault is going to be a wild goose chase maybe it would be simpler to just put it back how it was.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Oddly enough it was giving me 2 short flashes followed by a break and 2 flashes again. But it was intermittent, not a constant event. That's why I assumed it was a short somewhere like a loose or wet wire. After changing the fan relay this afternoon it was intermittent at first and then the light was on solid the whole time when the fans were on. That's when I peaked underneath to see if the fans were on or not and they were. So tomorrow I will put back in my bosch relay and try to reset the fan fail unit?

Is there another device in the car which also works that light? Near the washer bottle? Maybe that has gone bad? Until recently all those circuits have been disconnected for many years. Maybe I should just put the "Y" jumper back in for a little while? I like the idea of having the light working but if finding the fault is going to be a wild goose chase maybe it would be simpler to just put it back how it was.

Sounds like it is sensing different powers of each fan. If you follow my instructions for programming the fan fail (on my web site) you can get it to not be as sensitive on current compare or even shut off the current compare.

[DMC3165]

Thanks Dave, will give that a try later on today.

[DMC3165]

Reprogramming the fan fail unit has solved my flickering light. Thanks for the help.

My question now is what is going on? Are the motors drawing uneven amperage or is something else wrong? The replacement motors I installed are used OEM units but the flickering light was the same before I changed them.

Suggestions?

[Bitsyncmaster]

Reprogramming the fan fail unit has solved my flickering light. Thanks for the help.

My question now is what is going on? Are the motors drawing uneven amperage or is something else wrong? The replacement motors I installed are used OEM units but the flickering light was the same before I changed them.

Suggestions?

If you can measure the voltage at each fan it would tell you if you have a bad connection which would cause a mismatched current. The current sensors I use are pretty accurate but you could also measure each current. Trouble is measuring current greater than 10 amps (most meter max) and getting test leads to handle the current.