Headlight Bracket Availability

[mr_maxime]

I just got some new sealed beam LED headlights but they dont fit inside the bracket. I already modified them for my previous headlights but this will require significant modification to work. DMC appears to sell this as a package so I can't tell how easy it will be to get replacements in case it is needed. Should I go ahead and start chopping?

http://imgur.com/a/INo80

[mr_maxime]

Here's a quick comparison of the brightness and beam pattern. One of my semi sealed housings got broken and after dealing with melted HID fuses and the shit beam pattern I decided to try these ones out.
https://imgur.com/a/0sZnu

The brightness of the LED messes with the white balance so it appears darker around it.

[tommyrich]

I don't mean to second-guess your approach, but I bought these a few months ago (H4 sealed beam equivalent)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EATLUEM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and added these LED H4 replacements

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FS0QOYC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am pleased that they provide excellent illumination and do not require any modification of the headlight bucket. They do, however, require rewiring from the sealed beam configuration to the H4 configuration (I think swap of 2 wires).

It was almost by accident that I found these. I bought them because they were "Glass" and had the OEM look. but they just happen to fit perfectly.
Tom

[mr_maxime]

Well I could easily get some LED H4 bulbs, but I'm not pleased with the light pattern with the semi-sealed 4x6 headlights.

These are the ones I got https://www.genssiled.com/index.php/product/genssi-4x6-led-projector-demon-drl-eyes-headlight-chrome/

[WHO1DMC]

What is the heat output? Is it enough to damage "aka warp" the fascia.
Even though most people would do the reinforcement when you have it all disassembled.

Just a thought.
Dave B.

[mr_maxime]

Reinforcement is done. h4 is properly wired. All I need to do is chop the bucket up to get the headlight in and splice a spade terminal into the marker lights for the demon eye.

I just don't want to destroy the bucket and risk not being able to take it back to stock in case they are too valuable.

Another comparison side by side. Switched from the original comparison cause of wiring.
https://i.imgur.com/8UHq1mC.jpg

[DMC-Ron]

I don't mean to second-guess your approach, but I bought these a few months ago (H4 sealed beam equivalent)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EATLUEM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and added these LED H4 replacements

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FS0QOYC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am pleased that they provide excellent illumination and do not require any modification of the headlight bucket. They do, however, require rewiring from the sealed beam configuration to the H4 configuration (I think swap of 2 wires).

It was almost by accident that I found these. I bought them because they were "Glass" and had the OEM look. but they just happen to fit perfectly.
Tom

These look like a good solution. Did you replace all four headlamps? Any chance of some photos? Beam pattern before and after?
Ron

[tommyrich]

I will try to get a comparison picture...Below are some pictures showing how the headlight fits into the bucket (snugly.)
What I liked is that the lenses look stock-ish.
Tom


533235332253321
53324

[mr_maxime]

Well after cutting the bucket to fit and putting the headlights back on, I noticed a major mistake... I cut the high beam bucket. I didnt realized the notches varied.
https://i.imgur.com/IkYbFwT.jpg

[mr_maxime]

Also, these still didn't sit perfectly. I had to take the front fascia off to get them to sit properly.

https://i.imgur.com/6tcQPtF.jpg?1

[Shep]

I should note I did the same thing you're doing when I upgraded to angel eyes, which have since been swapped out once or twice already. Buckets got cut, they're really only there to fully support the stock headlights, and if you're not using them...

Might be worthwhile to try and fabricate your own buckets and brackets. Don't know what the "mistake" you refer to is, did you not get two sets? I can't imagine it would look good at all with just one set of headlights swapped.

As long as no screw holes are touched, and everything is still solid enough to not bend, you're fine. There's a TON of metal that can come out without sacrificing anything really. (As for part value, I wouldn't bother worrying about it. It's not a commonly requested part, and there's enough parts cars out there to grab one from if you screw up too badly).

[mr_maxime]

I should note I did the same thing you're doing when I upgraded to angel eyes, which have since been swapped out once or twice already. Buckets got cut, they're really only there to fully support the stock headlights, and if you're not using them...

Might be worthwhile to try and fabricate your own buckets and brackets. Don't know what the "mistake" you refer to is, did you not get two sets? I can't imagine it would look good at all with just one set of headlights swapped.

As long as no screw holes are touched, and everything is still solid enough to not bend, you're fine. There's a TON of metal that can come out without sacrificing anything really. (As for part value, I wouldn't bother worrying about it. It's not a commonly requested part, and there's enough parts cars out there to grab one from if you screw up too badly).

The mistake I made is not realizing that the low beam and high beam buckets are actually different. There is a larger notch in the upper left corner of the high beam for it to sit in. Didn't make much overall difference but I had to widen the notch because I ended up mixing up the buckets on the passenger side.

[Shep]

The mistake I made is not realizing that the low beam and high beam buckets are actually different. There is a larger notch in the upper left corner of the high beam for it to sit in. Didn't make much overall difference but I had to widen the notch because I ended up mixing up the buckets on the passenger side.I still don't know that I follow. I went one at a time, making sure the one fit, then moving to the next. But in any case, glad it worked! Got pics of the light output? Been eyeballing LED 4x6 units for a long while, it's hard to find something that looks good on the DeLorean front end though.

[mr_maxime]

I still don't know that I follow. I went one at a time, making sure the one fit, then moving to the next. But in any case, glad it worked! Got pics of the light output? Been eyeballing LED 4x6 units for a long while, it's hard to find something that looks good on the DeLorean front end though.

I had two buckets out at once, so they ended up getting swapped. if you look you'll see a number marked at the top of each bucket.

Pic in this post, left is LED and right is old HID http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?15650-Headlight-Bracket-Availability&p=224464&viewfull=1#post224464

[Shep]

I had two buckets out at once, so they ended up getting swapped. if you look you'll see a number marked at the top of each bucket.

Pic in this post, left is LED and right is old HID http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?15650-Headlight-Bracket-Availability&p=224464&viewfull=1#post224464Ooohhh, okay, I'm with you now.

Sorry, misspoke on the "light output" part, do you have a 3/4 shot from the front? Want to see what they look like installed, but off.

[ed uding]

We Delorean Europe
did start a new production of the L and R headlight bracket.
They are ready, and in transport the The Netherlands right now.
In 8 weeks we have 500 sets back on stock.
The tail lights are next in line.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10212305923434769&set=pcb.10212305924314791&type=3&theater
Ed
www.delorean.eu

[Shep]

The tail lights are next in line.Meaning? Are you reproducing the OEM ones? If so, request: make versions where the lenses are all clear. Can't convey enough how much I hate the red on mine with my LED bulbs.

EDIT: I should note I bought a completely faded set from a guy in Canada, so there's no amber left, just cloudy aftermath. Always wanted the red gone too.

[cis6409]

We Delorean Europe
did start a new production of the L and R headlight bracket.
They are ready, and in transport the The Netherlands right now.
In 8 weeks we have 500 sets back on stock.
The tail lights are next in line.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10212305923434769&set=pcb.10212305924314791&type=3&theater
Ed
www.delorean.eu


That's fantastic news great to hear ed , thanks for the heads up !:)

Cheers
Shane

[MML]

What are these made from, Ed? Is it mild steel?

I would love some made from a material that won't rust. I find that paint scrapes off over time and the rust starts again.

[SpudMurphy]

What are these made from, Ed? Is it mild steel?

I would love some made from a material that won't rust. I find that paint scrapes off over time and the rust starts again.

he recently put a post on facebook saying that they are NOT stainless steel as the cost was prohibitive.

Mine were pretty much ok - hardly any rust but I had to modify the buckets to fit UK spec H4's.

Red oxide, black paint and a coating of wax should make them last another 35 years .. and by then stainless ones should be available? :)

[Shep]

Link to his Facebook? Wondering what he's said about the taillights.

https://i.imgflip.com/1w6yxe.jpg

[SpudMurphy]

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10212305923434769&set=pcb.10212305924314791&type=3&theater

Quote ... "The new ones are a copy of the stock ones, no stainless.Stainless shoot pump up the price a lot, it is a lot of tooling. the 4 buckets are not the same, they have there own shape. as you can see on the stock one it has marks like RH1 RH2 so you can not mix it."

... and back in my day there were no computers :-)

[Shep]

Damn, needs me to log in to see more, and I don't have one... Ed, taillight clarification?

Also Mr. Maxime, got pics of the front with the headlights off? Interested to see how they look.

[mr_maxime]

https://i.imgur.com/buEQrgL.jpg?1

[Shep]

Wow that's slick! You've convinced me it looks great! My turn to do this soon! :)

[mr_maxime]

Look for them on ebay. got them much cheaper

[SS Spoiler]

Are you doing some body work?

[Shep]

I mean, it IS the LFF. High price alone is enough to try it...

That said, good god man, who the hell swirled it? Slap that bastard upside the head, do you do donuts on the highway? No? Then don't sand donuts on straight grain. Both look like rubbish and are an inconvenient eyesore. Sand with the grain. *insert Darren's Shipping Wars clip here*

How do the headlights look when they're on, same angle?

[mr_maxime]

... I sanded the lff lol.

The LFF is damaged mostly beyond repair and I'm using it as a test piece for polishing the rest of the car. Hard to tell from this angle but it's mangled above the marker light with rust formed in the damage.

[Shep]

The LFF is damaged [-snip-] beyond repairFixed that for you.


I'm using it as a test piece for polishing the rest of the car. Hard to tell from this angle but it's mangled above the marker light with rust formed in the damage.What did you use, steel wool? Man you're better off replacing it and working on your technique on store-bought aluminum at this point. Put the palm sander away, polished DeLoreans come with zero shortcuts and zero compromises. You've got a palette of terrible tools you're using to do a job that literally only needs sandpaper and patience to do. Word to the wise: when doing any kind of experimental work, rule #1 is never, EVER start on the most expensive example as a test piece. (EDIT: I should note that I went against this myself and destroyed no less than 10 taillights to get exact measurements out of them. They were garbage, and now they're NLA. The joys of blowing through dough without realizing it...) It's why every bottle of wood stain says to test "on an inconspicuous area first" -- if it goes badly, no one will notice. That on the other hand... I was on mobile before, SS spotted it immediately from a near-side profile.

The LFF hovers around $5,000 by the way -- every other panel to date goes around $1,000 (maybe higher if DMCH jacked their prices up again, but certainly not $5,000). If you can find a vendor willing to fix it up, do so now. Don't even think you can fix that kind of damage, you might even need to find out when Chris Nicholson will be in town and have him do it cheap ("X" hoods cost $5,000 to fix through DPI and was more expensive than replacing, Chris said $500 would do it, just to give an example of how amazing Chris is. I'm serious, hunt him down on a tech day that he makes an appearance repairing stuff and get in super-ass early. Your wallet and your car will thank you.)

Proper mirror-polished DeLoreans (which I have seen, and you can vary the amount of shine / luster by how fine of a grit you choose) use sandpaper on flawless panels. Emphasis is key there, if there's a ding, a tiny hairline scratch, even a speck of dust, it will show up in the end result, and will take easily hours to work out. It also helps to have stainless that has never been worked on before to get the maximum thickness possible. The thinner you have it, the less of a "sanding budget" you have to whittle away at. But they always, always sand with the grain. Never away. To demonstrate what the difference is, grab a crappy 2x4 that you don't care about and will throw away. Get large-grit sandpaper. 80 or lower if you have it. On the one side, sand it a bit lengthwise, with the wood's grain. On the other side, perpendicular to the grain. You'll aptly notice how quickly going against the grain leaves serious scratches in the wood. Same applies for metal.

I will also note that the actual "mirror finish" DeLoreans are insanely expensive to repair any bodywork on too. Tiny scratch? $1,000 from every vendor in existence. All sanding labor costs right there, you can't skimp on it. Polished doesn't look bad, and cuts that cost down dramatically as there's less grits involved. But that said, yeah you can do amazing with what you have once you get that LFF fixed! Chris Nicholson is your guy. Pretty much 90% of the people here can tell you that.

[mr_maxime]

To be 100% clear about this, the PO was involved in a literal fender bender which resulted in body filler being applied over the damage and the entire car painted. I sent pictures of the damage to PJ Grady and Soundkillr. Both said that the damage was already very bad and that Chris Nicholson might be able to fix it. I've already polished parts of the car by hand, but it was only after I figured I'd be replacing the LFF that I decided to try a flap disc for stainless on it.

[Shep]

Okay yeah that changes a lot then. I thought it was fine before and you went "oh what the hell". Clearly not the case. Wait, you removed the paint yourself? Hell, just saying "it was painted" was enough in my book.

I've never seen a painted car come out well the first time (EDIT: as in "remove paint, done" is never a thing it seems). But damn have I seen a lot or formerly-painted DeLoreans that are more beautiful than mine (Kenny Z with "Red" comes to mind)

Honest question: how's it look without the grain?

[mr_maxime]

Yes, I removed the paint myself. I bought a delorean with the goal to mirror polish it, so I like it without the grain.

[Shep]

Yes, I removed the paint myself. I bought a delorean with the goal to mirror polish it, so I like it without the grain.You ought to make a thread in Custom Mods on it. This is the first I've seen a painted one go straight to mirror polish. Most guys bring painted to stainless for the cost savings, or take an already-stainless guy and mirror polish it. I've not seen both in one go yet :hihi:

[mr_maxime]

I had a thread going but it got ruined by Photobucket

[Shep]

I had a thread going but it got ruined by Photobucket

Imgur. Unlisted. That's what I use.