Just bought an 83, Lots of questions

[Fanatic]

I just bought an 83 and it has issues. I'm sure I'll have to replace the clutch master and slave, the new fuel pump was installed by idiots, and more issues. I can't wait to get it road worthy.

[Fanatic]

53428

[Fanatic]

There is a yellow wire that has been cut from the plug and is missing, nothing is hooked up to the original sending unit, there is a plug on the new sending unit that isn't being used, and a mystery purple wire tapped to whatever is inside the ball of electrical tape. Real quality work.

[Michael]

Not a stock pump unit. Maybe one of the new ones that DMC sells but I doubt it. Is this car carbureted by any chance?

[David T]

Upon finding that kind of repair you can expect more "creative" type repairs. Chopping things up to install non-standard parts is going to make fixing it correctly more challenging. If the car has not been driven in a long time expect to rebuild the brake and clutch systems, struts, tires, battery, wiper blades, fluids and filters at least. Pull the fuel pump out, drain whatever is still in there and wipe the tank out with Acetone till it is clean.

[Fanatic]

The car is still injected. The previous changed the stainless lines that run to each injector also. It runs like crap. Not sure if its old gas or what. The coolant fans are always running, the heater fan doesn't work, power windows don't work, etc.

[opethmike]

The car is still injected. The previous changed the stainless lines that run to each injector also. It runs like crap. Not sure if its old gas or what. The coolant fans are always running, the heater fan doesn't work, power windows don't work, etc.

If they coolant fans are always running, my guess is that the previous owner hard wired them to run all of the time. That's done by jumpering the connections to the otterstat. The otterstat is a small sensor in the coolant hard pipe on the driver's side of the motor. It has two wires running to it. It turns the fans on when the coolant is hot enough. The one in there likely doesn't work, which is why it would be jumpered.

[Fanatic]

The pump is from Deloreanautoparts, they opted out of the sending unit and rigged it up, apparently.

[Nicholas R]

This is the purveyor of that part: https://www.deloreanautoparts.com/index.html

[Delorean Industries]

Be careful if you run car like this. The fuel lines should have quick disconnects but apear to be on fitting without barbs.

[Michael]

This is the purveyor of that part: https://www.deloreanautoparts.com/index.html

Well if it's running that crap you can be sure the rest of the P.O. repairs are hack jobs as well

[Dangermouse]

Is it a car that had been running recently or did the PO try a few things to get it running (after a long storage perhaps) and then gave up and sold it on?

[Jonathan]

It's also possible the PO rewired the cooling fans to an on/off switch and that switch is inadvertently switched to on at the moment. Look for any non-stock switches around the centre console area or near the steering wheel.

Actually, what might be a good idea, and along the lines of what Josh recommended too, would be to slow down on your initial use of the car until you go through the systems (electrical, but not just the electrical system) and compare what is there to what was supposed to be there. The consensus over time I've seen from other owners is that it's better to get PO wiring creativity returned to how it was supposed to be early on than to let it be as is and deal with new mysteries every other time you drive it. It will save you time and money in the long run IMO.

[Andrew]

It's also possible the PO rewired the cooling fans to an on/off switch and that switch is inadvertently switched to on at the moment. Look for any non-stock switches around the centre console area or near the steering wheel.

Actually, what might be a good idea, and along the lines of what Josh recommended too, would be to slow down on your initial use of the car until you go through the systems (electrical, but not just the electrical system) and compare what is there to what was supposed to be there. The consensus over time I've seen from other owners is that it's better to get PO wiring creativity returned to how it was supposed to be early on than to let it be as is and deal with new mysteries every other time you drive it. It will save you time and money in the long run IMO.

Congrats on your purchase! In addition to what others have said, I would recommend doing a complete inspection of all critical systems. Remove all 4 wheels and check the brakes, check the cooling hoses, as one failed hose will leave you stranded. Check the belts, and replace the alternator / wp belt, or at the very least carry a spare belt.

With regard to the cooling fans, a popular modification has been to replace one of the dummy switches in the center console with an on/off switch. It's actually a nice feature to be able to turn the cooling fans on manually. Also if the A/C compressor is engaged, the cooling fans will run, so check that as well.

As far as the poor running is concerned, check for vacuum leaks and/or dislodged spark plug wires, It's certainly possible that PO knocked something loose.

[Fanatic]

You guys are awesome. I'm a member of a BMW forum, and a Mustang forum and I have never had this many responses so fast. The previous owner is a car flipper. He purchased the car from the original owner to sell. I bought the car from him. His "mechanics" aren't fit to work on a Schwinn, everything the did was crap. I will be looking everything over and replacing what is needed before driving. I will keep everyone updated. I didn't have a chance to mess with it today because I was painting a hood. FYI the vin ends in 6620.

[Jonathan]

Right on. Yea, we're good like that here in the DeLorean world. You have to be a bit nutty to join voluntarily, but we all did the same, so the more the merrier.

Here's a bundle of diagrams to help you sort out what the wiring should look like:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?40-All-Wiring-Schematics

The first post has a pile of easy-to-read diagrams that simplify each sub-system. Towards the end of that first page (6th post or so) is the general lay-out of the fuse and relay area behind the passenger seat. There is also a really nicely done colour wiring diagram for the whole car, which is very thorough, but can be hard to read until you get familiar with it.

There are also links on here to most of the manuals, including the owners manual (glovebox manual), workshop manual, parts manual, concours guide (to help identify non-stock items) and a couple others. Most owners benefit from buying a paper copy of the main binders/manuals and you can get that from your favourite vendor. There is also a glovebox guide PDF file that Rob Grady and others made to help you in a pinch if you breakdown on the side of the road. Mostly has some tricks to diagnose and get yourself limped home safely if needed.

You can definitely feel free to post photos of your car, engine bay, fuse and relay area, suspension or anything else you're wondering about. There is no shortage of us on here that seem to quite enjoy looking at these and offering free advice or assessments. Another strange symptom of the DMC virus. I think I check this website more than my favourite sports team sites all combined, lol.

[opethmike]

Ahem, I'm the only awesome one in this thread.

Listen to Jonathan, he knows these cars. Don't listen to Dave T, he just quotes workshop manuals.

[Lwanmtr]

Also, depending where you are, get to know your 'localish' dmc vendor...they can also help with some things too

[Fanatic]

I'm in Wisconsin. I don't think there is a local vendor.

[DaraSue]

I'm in Wisconsin. I don't think there is a local vendor.

What part of Wisconsin? DMC Midwest is in the Chicago area, and if you've got some cash to spare it might be worth trailering it down there and having them take a look. I too bought from a car-flipper (maybe the same one) and getting it inspected before attempting a 1400 mile trip home probably saved me at least one tow truck call.

[Fanatic]

I'm capable of completing repairs, but thanks. The seller's name is Alex and lives in Memphis. He's a lying POS. The car was totally not as described.

[Lwanmtr]

Ouchie...that sucks

[David T]

If you didn't overpay then you aren't in too bad of a position if you can do a lot of the work yourself. The parts are not overly expensive and most repairs are not difficult once you know what to do and how to do it. We can help with what to do, how to do it, and where to get parts. It doesn't all have to be done at once. To get started replace all of the fluids and filters, check the date codes on the tires and battery. Get the Workshop Manual and if you need them, struts. You should move this post or start a new one in the General Discussions.

[DaraSue]

I'm capable of completing repairs, but thanks. The seller's name is Alex and lives in Memphis. He's a lying POS. The car was totally not as described.

Not the same guy I bought from. Ugh, sorry you got hosed. Hope the repairs turn out not to be too bad :(

[opethmike]

most repairs are not difficult once you know what to do and how to do it.

So... how would you know?

[SamHill]

When did Bill take over Opethmike's account?

[Jonathan]

The car was totally not as described.

This would have been an accurate way to describe my own car when it arrived in 2007.

My car needed a lot of work. Most things were small to medium in size, but with such a long, long list of deficiencies, it got pretty overwhelming at times.

Whether you look at it as overpaying for the condition of the car you actually got, or feeling duped because you didn't get the car you were lead to believe you were getting, the first couple years can be nothing short of an emotional roller coaster (for me at least they were).

You're in the right place to get help figuring it all out. That's as much for technical support as it is the motivational kind. For as many hours as I spent on the phone or email with Dave at DMCMW talking car fixes, I spent double that easily talking to Julee about me fixes. Ask when you need help, that's what we're here for (most of the time anyway... sometimes we just like to get on each other's nerves a little, hehe).

[Chris 16409]

Here is a picture of my pump. This is how I have it all set up. Josh is right, it's best to have the quick fuel line connectors. Also there is a proper plug harness you can get:

53497

53499

53498

[Fanatic]

Thanks for the great posts. I will get the pump taken care of after I replace the hydraulic clutch components and brake parts.

[David T]

Even if you got a "nice" car, you should expect to find a LOT of "issues" with any 30 + year old car. You can whine that the PO should have told you about it but in the end it is on YOU, the buyer, to ascertain the condition of the car. Sometimes the seller is deceitful by lying, other times by omission. As a buyer you cannot believe a seller's descriptions, you should check it for yourself. Unless, in the Bill of Sale, a seller makes a representation of a condition, you cannot hold him to anything. The general rule is you are buying it "As Is, and Where Is". In the Bill of Sale the only representations commonly made are the mileage, the ownership, the price, and the VIN.

[Fanatic]

Duh! This is common practice for any car. I bought the car online from over a 1000 miles away and the seller purposely lied about the condition. I got a fair price so I'm not too upset. I have my own shop and rebuild transmissions for a living so I am more than capable. I'm just not familiar with the quirks of this vehicle. I was simply warning others because the seller claimed he sold other Deloreans and may sell more in the future.

[Fanatic]

I don't whine, I suck it up and fix other idiots' mistakes, on a daily basis. That's what I do and the Delorean is no different. I knew it would have issues. I'll handle them.I'm also a bodyman I can share info on restoration of parts that many will find useful. I see a lot of people on this forum painting over rust with spray can paint, big no-no. I have access to a powder coating company too, which I will be using as well.

[Fanatic]

I'm also looking for the two interior A-pillar trim pieces. Does anybody have these? The windshield must be removed to install these?

[Michael]

I'm also looking for the two interior A-pillar trim pieces. Does anybody have these? The windshield must be removed to install these?

No, you can remove the pieces without removing the windshield. I took my DS out several years ago to fix a warp. If I recall, it just snaps in place using metal clips pushed on the plastic tabs (again it's been awhile) and if I am correct, those tabs are most likely prone to break after 30 years so be gentle.

As far as the previous posts go, let's just say DT has a firm grasp on the obvious.

[Delorean Industries]

Only early cars can be serviced this way. All late cars are glued beneath the glass. Windscreen needs replaced for this.

[Michael]

Only early cars can be serviced this way. All late cars are glued beneath the glass. Windscreen needs replaced for this.

Josh, is it just the covering that's underneath the glass or part of the panel itself? I do remember using a thin blade to carefully tuck my covering back into place under the glass, but that was it.

[Delorean Industries]

Josh, is it just the covering that's underneath the glass or part of the panel itself? I do remember using a thin blade to carefully tuck my covering back into place under the glass, but that was it.

Not the backing just the material is stretched and glued halfway across the windscreen surface. When the glass is installed urethane covers this edge and the exposed fiberglass.

[Lwanmtr]

I've been talking with Toby about the A pillars myself, since mine are seriously warped and need replacing...getting them out (at least on mine), I had to cut the vinyl (that hadnt already peeled out) along the window edge to get them out.....getting new ones in might be a challenge, since they are bonded under the windsheild...and taking the windsheild out is a risky thing cause you could end up breaking it.

[Michael]

I've been talking with Toby about the A pillars myself, since mine are seriously warped and need replacing...getting them out (at least on mine), I had to cut the vinyl (that hadnt already peeled out) along the window edge to get them out.....getting new ones in might be a challenge, since they are bonded under the windsheild...and taking the windsheild out is a risky thing cause you could end up breaking it.
I used a heat gun to straighten mine

[Lwanmtr]

I started with a heat gun on mine but one is severely warped and it was being obstinant..lol...I may revisit them later, just to give me something to do until I can get the parts I need to move forward on other parts

[opethmike]

No, you can remove the pieces without removing the windshield. I took my DS out several years ago to fix a warp. If I recall, it just snaps in place using metal clips pushed on the plastic tabs (again it's been awhile) and if I am correct, those tabs are most likely prone to break after 30 years so be gentle.

As far as the previous posts go, let's just say DT has a firm grasp on the obvious.

DT = Dream Theater?

[Fanatic]

I have a glass guy that can remove the glass for me at my shop, no biggie. I think if he breaks it that he would replace it for free. Is there anything else that should be replaced when the glass is out?

[Lwanmtr]

Definately make sure he'll replace it for free..Delorean windsheilds arent cheap...hehe. Bonded glass is always iffy on any car to remove.

As for anything else to fix while its out, I dont know..A pillars are the only thing I know about..but someone else with a longer history might know.

[David T]

I would suggest against removing the glass for any reason other than replacement. Even for an experienced glass shop, there are certain precautions that must be taken to hold the roof in position during curing. Glass is not always in stock, it is expensive and so is the shipping, especially if it arrives broken. If you have a car with the vinyl under the glass just cut it loose. I also thought when I bought my car I knew what I was doing, having worked on cars for many years. I quickly learned Deloreans have some unusual "quirks" that must be understood to service them properly. Metric hardware but not everywhere, a French, Swedish drivetrain, a Lucas electrical system, a German fuel injection system, the unique doors system, etc. Multiple recalls, many mods and improvements to make the car more reliable, there is a lot to learn. This forum is here to do that, all you have to do is ask. BTW, the glass is VERY susceptible to damage if you strike the edge. As long as it is in the car it is protected. If you happen to have an early car with the windscreen antennae, they are NLA so don't break it! You cannot replace it.

[louielouie2000]

If you happen to have an early car with the windscreen antennae, they are NLA so don't break it! You cannot replace it.

DMC-Texas had these reproduced a number of years ago. Or have their reproductions been depleted?

http://http://store.delorean.com/p-9751-windshield-wantenna.aspx (http://store.delorean.com/p-9751-windshield-wantenna.aspx)

[Michael]

I would suggest against removing the glass for any reason other than replacement. Even for an experienced glass shop, there are certain precautions that must be taken to hold the roof in position during curing. Glass is not always in stock, it is expensive and so is the shipping, especially if it arrives broken. If you have a car with the vinyl under the glass just cut it loose. I also thought when I bought my car I knew what I was doing, having worked on cars for many years. I quickly learned Deloreans have some unusual "quirks" that must be understood to service them properly. Metric hardware but not everywhere, a French, Swedish drivetrain, a Lucas electrical system, a German fuel injection system, the unique doors system, etc. Multiple recalls, many mods and improvements to make the car more reliable, there is a lot to learn. This forum is here to do that, all you have to do is ask. BTW, the glass is VERY susceptible to damage if you strike the edge. As long as it is in the car it is protected. If you happen to have an early car with the windscreen antennae, they are NLA so don't break it! You cannot replace it.

I was going to mention the radio antenna, then I remembered the title of this thread

[David T]

When I write posts I try to write to the general audience, not just the original poster. I wanted to mention about the antennae because at some point in the future someone may read these posts and not have an '83. It is also possible an '83 could have an early windscreen but I doubt it. They all should have been used by then but if any were left over they certainly would have used it. The '83's were what I call the "Put Together's". Whatever they had left, they used it to put them together! The were assembled with no regard to the running VIN changes.

[opethmike]

When I write posts I try to write to the general audience.

That's a fancy way of saying "I didn't actually read the thread."

Wouldn't it be much more productive to, you know, comment on the specific topic at hand? And not just babble to increase your already enormous post count?

[BladeBronson]

I've been noticing these posts from opethmike directed toward David T for a while. What's the story here? From the outside looking in, opethmike seems to just be an asshole that doesn't give David T any respect. It seems to be entirely one-sided, although I admit that I haven't read all the posts on this board. I'm really hoping that they're good friends and this just just how they tease each other.

[Fanatic]

Ha! You guys are entertaining! I'm also gauging interest in getting some stainless or aluminum gas tank cover plates made. If anybody is interested in one, let me know. I'm taking the plate over to my machinist tomorrow. We're still discussing what material to use. I'm not sure if I believe that an aluminum cover reduces gas temperature. I'd like to see some hard evidence of that. Anybody know where I can get the A-pillar trim pieces, besides crappy ones from eBay?

[Lwanmtr]

I think the A pillars are still available from DMC vendors...same with the fuel tank closing plates.

[dn010]

They are indeed still available from DMCH but pricey, I replaced mine a few years ago when I replaced my cracked windshield. I too would recommend against removing the windshield if you don't have to, $450 + shipping just to replace the A pillars is quite the expense - I'm surprised a shop would agree to risk that kind of money to remove it for you. As already stated, you will also need a jig to hold the roof at the proper spec when the new windshield is installed. If you don't get it correct, you'll have issues with the doors.


I think the A pillars are still available from DMC vendors...same with the fuel tank closing plates.

[opethmike]

I've been noticing these posts from opethmike directed toward David T for a while. What's the story here? From the outside looking in, opethmike seems to just be an asshole that doesn't give David T any respect. It seems to be entirely one-sided, although I admit that I haven't read all the posts on this board. I'm really hoping that they're good friends and this just just how they tease each other.

Well, I certainly am an asshole, I can't argue that. The story is that at numerous DMA events Dave has harassed me in person about my choices for my car, talked down to many members of the club (his behavior is why several younger owners have left the grou) and never apologized and made it clear he doesn't intend to.

[BladeBronson]

Ah, so a real grudge. Well, it's not a good look for either of you, so why not just stop?

[dn010]

I'm just glad I finally know what the hell the story is here!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[dmc4087]

Ah, so a real grudge. Well, it's not a good look for either of you, so why not just stop?

X2

[David T]

I actually don't remember any such event. If I disparaged him I apologize for it but I truly don't remember. It would seem he holds a grudge though so it must have been traumatic for him. Too bad and he should try to get over it and move on. It just serves as a distraction to the group.

[81dmc]

If you happen to have an early car with the windscreen antennae, they are NLA so don't break it! You cannot replace it.

Just for early cars, but the windshield with antenna is now available. Bought one directly from DMCH and installed it myself about a year ago. Definitely like it better than the low quality power antenna...

[David T]

Th factory started with the windscreen antennae because the insurance companies were pushing for them because car washes would damage the extending-retracting antennas. DMC quickly found out (like all other car manufacturers did) that unless you were in a big city near the transmitters you could not get a good signal. The problem is the signal is "polarized". That means it is transmitted in the vertical plane and the windscreen antennae is in a horizontal plane. That makes it VERY inefficient. By switching to first the manual vertical and eventually the powered vertical antennae, the radio was able to get a much stronger signal. A strong signal is necessary for the radio because they are very cheap and don't have a high signal-to-noise ratio. Modern radios are much better and can work with weaker signals. Today there are a LOT of options. You can use bluetooth to sync sources, satellite, C/D's, Pandora, all kinds of different ways to get stuff. Not like in 1981 where your choice was AM, FM, or a cassette. The new aftermarket choices are astounding in their capabilities. You can do almost anything. For more info check out Crutchfield.com for ideas. Of course if you are considering upgrading the radio you must also consider better speakers and rewiring the car.

[DMC-81]

I actually don't remember any such event. If I disparaged him I apologize for it but I truly don't remember. It would seem he holds a grudge though so it must have been traumatic for him. Too bad and he should try to get over it and move on. It just serves as a distraction to the group.

David,

That is an unfortunate story about the events at DMA for Mike and the other younger owners. It's good that you finally apologized.

As I read Mike's account, this quote came to mind on why many people don't just "get over it".

53555

[81dmc]

Th factory started with the windscreen antennae because the insurance companies were pushing for them because car washes would damage the extending-retracting antennas. DMC quickly found out (like all other car manufacturers did) that unless you were in a big city near the transmitters you could not get a good signal. The problem is the signal is "polarized". That means it is transmitted in the vertical plane and the windscreen antennae is in a horizontal plane. That makes it VERY inefficient. By switching to first the manual vertical and eventually the powered vertical antennae, the radio was able to get a much stronger signal. A strong signal is necessary for the radio because they are very cheap and don't have a high signal-to-noise ratio. Modern radios are much better and can work with weaker signals.

Well, when I first purchased my car and had the windshield replaced by DMCFL, I lost the original, built in a antenna for an autozone-grade retractable antenna. The reception of course was awful. I had an accident a few years later when I replaced my roof box with Ed's stainless replacement. So I cut out the windshield and drove over to DMCH. After a talk with Stephen Wynne, I found out they had finally reproduced the windshield with antenna. Fast forward a year, and the reception is arguably better than the ugly retractable antenna that I tore back out.

The following is taken from here. (http://store.delorean.com/p-9751-windshield-wantenna.aspx)

The exact point in which the factory stopped fitting the cars with windshields that had embedded antennas is somewhere around VIN 2700, but we know there are lots of cars still out there with their original "antenna" windshields... We artfully improved the layout of the embedded wire and used a modern material for said wire to improve radio reception, too!

Anyways, I have no intention of highjacking this thread any further. I'm just trying to correct the information for new owners of early vin cars.

[Jimmyvonviggle]

My car has a windshield antenna with VIN 3028

[Nicholas R]

My car has an original windshield antenna and the reception is pretty bad. I was about to go to the trouble of installing the retractable antenna in the rear, when I decided to give this a shot: https://www.amazon.com/Stereo-Amplified-Antenna-Universal-Vehicle/dp/B01KFFRZZW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1506092267&sr=8-6&keywords=FM+car+antenna

For $10 I figured it was definitely worth the gamble. Every now and then I get a little static coming in, but it's a huge improvement. I have one installed in my Opel GT as well. Both cars have them stuck up underneath the dash out of sight. You'd never know they were there. I still tell people at shows about the windshield antenna as a piece of trivia, even though its not actually in use.

What a bizarre tangent for this thread to take, especially considering it's specifically for an '83.

[Fanatic]

Trying to rebuild my rear brake calipers. The outer seal was too tall to fit in the groove of the piston. I cut the seals down to fit into the groove, ruined one. I'm not sure if my pistons have been replaced or the kit is wrong. Part #Centric 143.90002. Sucks, I can't just run to NAPA and grab a kit. I called those idiots and told them it was a 1983 Delorean and the moron asks "Who makes that?". Just once I would like to get revenge on parts store idiots. Those retards have screwed me so many times and there is no repercussion for them. I ordered a kit from DMC Midwest, double the price. It better be right.

[Lwanmtr]

I would think as long as they're the stock calipers, the kit otta be the right one.

[Fanatic]

I don't think my rear calipers are Girling. I didn't notice the G marking on the caliper.

[DMC-81]

I don't think my rear calipers are Girling. I didn't notice the G marking on the caliper.

Can you post a picture of your calipers, or do they look similar to this?

53561

53562

[Fanatic]

I'll post pics tomorrow. Yes, they look similar if not identical. I did notice that the piston seal seamed a bit loose when installed on the caliper body. When you install the retaining ring a small amount of rubber bunches up as if the diameter of the seal is too big for the caliper.

[David T]

It is possible the pistons were replaced with non-stock pistons and the stock seals will no longer fit properly. If the kit you get from DMCMW doesn't fit you will have to replace the pistons. Never a good idea to modify brake parts to try to make them fit. Should take this to another thread about brake calipers.

[DMC-81]

I'll post pics tomorrow. Yes, they look similar if not identical. I did notice that the piston seal seamed a bit loose when installed on the caliper body. When you install the retaining ring a small amount of rubber bunches up as if the diameter of the seal is too big for the caliper.

OK. Yes, the retaining ring and the seal should be a precise fit to the caliper body (and to the piston) similar to this:

53563

(If the pistons look odd/different, I replaced them with the stainless steel versions. They are exactly the same size as the stock ones.)

[Fanatic]

The car is in the middle of my shop. I'm not going to wait to move it. I can always redo the calipers when I have them coated this winter. I simply cut the rubber seal to fit into the groove of the piston. It wasn't a major modification. I know exactly what I'm doing, as I rebuild transmissions all day. David T, you are an annoying know-it-all. Don't post on my threads again. I see why other members can't stand you.

[Fanatic]

DMC-1 I know my retaining rings and seals didn't look as nice as yours. The rubber was bunched up in one spot and the ends of the retaining rings didn't meet perfectly like yours. Who made calipers for these cars besides Girling?

[DMC-81]

DMC-1 I know my retaining rings and seals didn't look as nice as yours. The rubber was bunched up in one spot and the ends of the retaining rings didn't meet perfectly like yours. Who made calipers for these cars besides Girling?

If I'm not mistaken, the rear calipers were also used on a 1980's Jaguar, but the piston size was smaller. I don't know if Girling also made those.

If you haven't seen it, here is a parts crossover list: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?932-Parts-Crossover-List and here is a thread specifically about brakes: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?2754-Compatible-brake-caliper-cross-reference

Honestly though, with few exceptions, I've had better luck buying most parts from a Delorean vendor. But, I recommend doing some research on them on this forum as some are hit and miss. I bought my seal kits from a Delorean vendor. I'm sure the ones from DMC will be right, given stock calipers.

Some parts are just as easily obtained at an Auto Parts store.

[Rich_NYS]

Here are pics of my rears when I rebuilt them, there's a pretty good view of the seal & ring:

535735357453575

[David T]

When I post I don't know the OP's capabilities. In general it is not good practice for anyone to modify brake parts as a general rule. This is an open forum and anyone can post to any thread once you are a member. It is up to the reader if he wants to read any particular post. No one "owns" a thread except the moderators. This kind of thread is best placed in the "general" section anyway where most of the technical stuff is. Over here the rules are a bit looser as to what is posted.

[Fanatic]

Thank you again, David T. for your valuable insight and expert advise. Here is a pic of the piston that I removed from my caliper. The seal that was installed had a smaller lip that fit in the groove perfectly. The seals that came in the Centric kit have a bigger lip that I had to cut down to fit into the groove.53584

[DMC-81]

Those pistons look good...there is no pitting. They almost look stainless. Here is a picture of mine before installation if you want to compare the profiles.

53585

[Fanatic]

Ha! I soaked everything in rust soak, stuff works great. Too bad you can't get a measurement on the groove. I'll measure mine tomorrow.

[Rich_NYS]

A few more pics from when I rebuilt my rear brakes.

Centric kit on an OEM piston:

53605

Pitted OEM pistons, I might still have one of these if you need a measurement:

53606

OEM piston compared w/ a crossover piston:

53607 53608

[Fanatic]

Yes, measure the groove

[Rich_NYS]

Yes, measure the groove

1/8"

[Fanatic]

I measured the groove in the piston and it is 3.4mm tall. I also included a pic of the original seal with a smaller lip on the inside compared to the Centric seal with a taller lip. If the stock 53621and replacement pistons' grooves measure 3.4mm then Centric kit is incorrect and fluid will seep past the seal.

[Fanatic]

I used a digital calipers to measure the groove height.

[Rich_NYS]

I don't have a digital caliper, I used a ruler.

I'll get a metric measurement & post a pic. The pics you posted look like the dust boots....I don't think that has anything to do with sealing the piston against the bore.

This is what matters for sealing the piston:

53622

[Rich_NYS]

I don't have a digital caliper, I used a ruler.

I'll get a metric measurement & post a pic. The pics you posted look like the dust boots....I don't think that has anything to do with sealing the piston against the bore.

This is what matters for sealing the piston:

53622

mm

53623

[Fanatic]

Yes, it is the dust boot. The boot is incorrect for the piston. The original seal fits in the groove perfectly. The Centric doesn't.

[DMC-81]

Yes, it is the dust boot. The boot is incorrect for the piston. The original seal fits in the groove perfectly. The Centric doesn't.

Yeah, I agree. I looked up your Centric part number and for Summit at least, it had 122 European applications including the Lotus Esprit, but no Delorean. :(

[Fanatic]

I just received the rebuild kit from DMC Midwest and the dust boots are correct. I found the Centric part # on an older DMCTalk discussion.

[Fanatic]

Are there a rebuild kits available for the brake master cylinder and the clutch slave cylinder? I purchased new but I would like to rebuild my originals for backups.

[David T]

It is getting harder and harder to get kits and the cross-references are getting old and they are drying up. Literally. A lot of the stock is NOS and is getting too old to use. Try Special T, he still had them. if your old cylinders are pitted they can be sleeved. Check with White Post.

[DMCVegas]

It is getting harder and harder to get kits and the cross-references are getting old and they are drying up. Literally. A lot of the stock is NOS and is getting too old to use. Try Special T, he still had them. if your old cylinders are pitted they can be sleeved. Check with White Post.

Very true. But keep this in mind: Special T does have *some* good parts, but be very careful with the stuff he sells. Some of the parts he sells might actually fit, but they don't actually function as intended. The Brake Master Cylinder being a good example as the DMC part has a specific output bias for our car's weight distribution, and his cross referenced part does not. I replaced my brake hoses with SS Braided lines, and of course had better brakes. However, after that I replaced my old M/C with one of Special T's cross over units meant for an Audi, and the car just didn't feel right after that. The Brake and Clutch M/C units available from vendors right now are, if I'm not mistaken, reproductions built to spec for our cars. There are other parts too, but the Brake M/C is one that I can speak about from personal experience.

However, if things ever got really bad, any good hydraulic shop should be able to rebuild our units no problem. But I think we're probably a long ways away from such dire straights.

[Michael]

Before you buy one thing from Special T, I would advise you to do a search here about his business practices. The guy is a cess pool of bad customer service, berating his customers, and if you ever wondered how he got his name "Special T"...that's a whole new level of low life assholeness that only he could dive too. For the absolute lowest of lows you can't do any worse in the DeLorean community than Special T.

[David T]

That "Biasing cylinder" (the wrong one) was also sold by other vendors so Special T wasn't the only one pushing that cross/reffed one that wasn't correct. While there are some customers that had problems with Special T, many others are very happy with him. I think we can all agree he could improve his customer service. He does offer an alternative to the DMC vendors. He is still a valuable asset to the Delorean community. Just be cautious like you should with ANY vendor (and patient).

[Michael]

That "Biasing cylinder" (the wrong one) was also sold by other vendors so Special T wasn't the only one pushing that cross/reffed one that wasn't correct. While there are some customers that had problems with Special T, many others are very happy with him. I think we can all agree he could improve his customer service. He does offer an alternative to the DMC vendors. He is still a valuable asset to the Delorean community. Just be cautious like you should with ANY vendor (and patient).
Get a room

[Fanatic]

Yes, I've heard about him and I actually called him about my fuel pump wiring. He started to get an attitude and I gave it right back. He was cool after that but I'm cautious about ordering from him. Has anyone gotten recovered seats/interior from him?

[81dmc]

Yes, I've heard about him and I actually called him about my fuel pump wiring. He started to get an attitude and I gave it right back. He was cool after that but I'm cautious about ordering from him. Has anyone gotten recovered seats/interior from him?

Honestly, forget John Hervey, and don't purchase any part from him expecting quality. If you want some proof, do a search and look for the "easy rider" suspension kits that have had the collar collapse. Hell, I even have his carpet set, and the carpet is actually coming apart in areas due to poor quality materials. So, if you only want to do the job once, call up a different vendor.

[David T]

What it comes down to is that some of the parts/services/supplies, that he sells are not what you would expect to be quailitywise. Others are better than what the other vendors sell. He has no NOS so all of his stuff is new stock. For the most part, the parts he just buys and sells are excellent, the stuff he makes or modifies or rebuilds, not so good but the fuel system stuff he does if fine. He offers an alternative to the other vendors ad his prices are competitive.

[Michael]

What it comes down to is that some of the parts/services/supplies, that he sells are not what you would expect to be quailitywise. Others are better than what the other vendors sell. He has no NOS so all of his stuff is new stock. For the most part, the parts he just buys and sells are excellent, the stuff he makes or modifies or rebuilds, not so good but the fuel system stuff he does if fine. He offers an alternative to the other vendors ad his prices are competitive.

In other words, eat through a pile of shit and there might be an Oreo cookie in the middle for you to enjoy.

[dn010]

What it comes down to is that some of the parts/services/supplies, that he sells are not what you would expect to be quailitywise. Others are better than what the other vendors sell. He has no NOS so all of his stuff is new stock. For the most part, the parts he just buys and sells are excellent, the stuff he makes or modifies or rebuilds, not so good but the fuel system stuff he does if fine. He offers an alternative to the other vendors ad his prices are competitive.

Wow...

Hervey's parts are cross referenced off the shelf, marked up, numbers ground off crap that are manipulated to fit but are WRONG parts. His fuel system stuff is fine? Then why does his marine sender not include a low fuel light function? Why did my fuel boot from him crack into a million pieces after one week of being installed? Its almost as if he just takes an original part, heads to the parts house, goes in the back and sees what the closest match is and then starts to sell that as the "alternative". Competitive pricing- $99+Shipping&Hassle "Identical in fit form and function" fuel pump from him is $49 with free shipping on ebay.

Do yourself a favor and stick with the known good parts that are guaranteed to fit from the usual vendors, NOT Special T/Hervey/DAP - who by the way, could have gotten me killed or my car destroyed worse than it was with his bullshit "close enough" parts like his old ball joints that failed on me while driving or the above mentioned fuel boot that leaked gas all over when I went to fill up.

It's bad enough the DeLorean community has to deal with his parts - imagine the Mercedes or Porsche community buying an "alternative" radiator, fuel system or shocks from him. At least with them, he stuck to only offering fuel distributors.

[SamHill]

Parts that were okay: metal resevoir tank, fans and radiator.
Not okay: Water Pump assembly, general business practices and service.

I've read this comic book before. Not bashing; I would just do a single order at a time.

53699

[DMCVegas]

I've read this comic book before. Not bashing; I would just do a single order at a time.

53699

Good luck with that. My Kafkaesque John Hervy adventure was over a single water pump I purchased from him.

He kept asking me when the core was going to arrive, and I kept e-mailing him the tracking number for the package with the delivery date and how someone at his address signed for it. Not my problem if his one-man operation cannot locate it, I show it as delivered, and I'm not there to help go through his house to find his stuff. I of course am nice as can be while telling him this in so many words that I don't know where the boxes in his house are.

Pump he sends me is defective. Squeals and appears to be leaking from the weep hole. I send it back. To his credit he sends another. But there is a teeny-tiny hiccup...

Pump he sends is lost in transit when the UPS truck carrying it is hit by a train. I cannot make this up. Me and Marty McFly are the only people to have DeLorean parts get destroyed by a train. I ask UPS where the package is and they tell me it's gone. After wrecks like this they just write everything off as a loss and toss stuff. Nothing I can do as I am the recipient, but the sender needs to file the claim with UPS. I e-mail John where my package is, and he says it's in transit. Mmm-hmm. I call him and tell him that it is not in transit, and that it's been lost and how that loss has occurred. We have a fun little go round of "What am I supposed to do?" about my replacement pump. Because of course we have to. The concept of how given that I am neither the driver of the UPS truck, nor the engineer of the train involved with the wreck of the ol' 97 here and thus not responsible for the loss of the package is lost on him at first. I explain that he needs to contact UPS as the shipper and file a claim. That is when I discover that the package may not exactly have been insured when it was shipped. That is a shame, but it is not my fault. He tells me that he still hasn't received my original core. I tell him the tracking number for the core to verify it arrived. He acknowledged he "must have it somewhere". He eventually agrees to send me a replacement pump as an act of "goodwill". This pump does work.

Not having learned my lesson, I did order an oil sender unit a little while later that had to be returned since it was leaking. Again, to his credit he sent out a replacement. But not before asking me if I still owed him a core for a water pump....because he couldn't remember... ಠ_ಠ

[Michael]

Well at least your got your Oreo cookie

[DMC-81]

Well at least your got your Oreo cookie

:hysterical:

Not to pile on, (no pun intended), but I agree with avoiding this vendor. I could fill up this thread with stories, but here's one on a recent product that was supposed to be one of the "good" or "unique" ones:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?15130-DAP-clutch-bleeder-(new-and-improved)

As a value conscious person, I was initially lured by the prices soon after I bought the car. It ended up costing me more in shipping the shoddy products back, and buying the correct one anyway. Not to mention the pleasure of dealing with John when you call him back. I still have a box of his crap that I never bothered to return. I quickly learned to do research/ask questions on parts here and elsewhere before you buy.

Even when you do your research (as in my case with the bleeder) there is a high risk of getting burned.

My advice: just stay away.

[SamHill]

Good luck with that. My Kafkaesque John Hervy adventure was over a single water pump [1000 word essay]ಠ

Way to misrepresent my position. I'm the guy rolling my eyes ironman style whenever one of his supporters chime in with 'come on guys, one man shop' stuff. All I'm saying is that if you insist on getting screwed, do it over one part, not ten. But stop screwing yourself over a perceived 10% savings anyway. If you are Mr. Super value you'll do better with Steve Rice's x ref list.

[Fanatic]

What's the best way to clean the injectors. All of mine are plugged somewhat. I was considering soaking in Berryman's

[DMCVegas]

Way to misrepresent my position. I'm the guy rolling my eyes ironman style whenever one of his supporters chime in with 'come on guys, one man shop' stuff. All I'm saying is that if you insist on getting screwed, do it over one part, not ten. But stop screwing yourself over a perceived 10% savings anyway. If you are Mr. Super value you'll do better with Steve Rice's x ref list.

Well then if I failed to comprehend your sarcasm, then I do genuinely apologize. So I am sorry. I also agree that if you're truly trying save money, cross reference lists would be preferable. Because that's pretty much what John's entire business model appears to be: Stock up on cross referenced parts from the lists that might work (*cough* lower ball joins *cough*), and then sell them all at a mark-up.



As a value conscious person, I was initially lured by the prices soon after I bought the car.

You know, the prices absolutely were a great way to bring people in, and definitely caught my attention as well. The thing however was that John took the time to advertise everything that he has, and because of that he can drum-up the hype over "performance" parts that he showcases. Seeing his complete catalog of items, along with the ease of navigation is what makes his stuff so attractive. Example: Air Conditioning.

Hervy advertises everything on a single page for his stuff, and really hypes up everything by making the entire page a one-stop-shop for the topic. He's pimping "performance parts" out such as brand new A/C lines, new compressors, even talks about R-134a conversions, and even has all of the little stuff there that you as a DIY'er might miss. This kinda makes it seem like "advice" almost. But again, all you have to do is scroll since everything is on a single page.

DMCH unless you see a specific notice, is only selling NOS stuff. Which when it comes to rubber parts isn't very conducive to positive consumer perception of their products (not accusing anything, just stating it is the public's perception). Plus they are old-fashioned in many respects. If it's something that desperately needs an upgrade (like an auto trans computer), sure, we'll get new stuff. But if the old works, there isn't really an improvement. Such as the staunch use of R-12. This gives much preferability to the image of John's "performance" parts.

The organization of their store utilizing DMC's original Parts Catalog as a template is brilliant. Navigating, however, it is frustrating. The home page doesn't have a link to all of the parts categories. You have to use the drop down at the top. Clicking "Home" simply takes you back to that same landing page where you STILL have to click on the drop downs to get where you're going. God forbid you need to use the "Search" function. It has gotten better, but it's not always accurate, and it's clunky as all hell. First thing is that you have to "click" to activate it. Don't click and start typing. No. Click, wait for the animation to complete, and then you must click a second time inside of the text box to start typing. And the sorting process is a bit slow. Worse yet, their site is in desperate need of some serious housekeeping in areas when it comes to either NLA parts, mislabeled kits, and entirely missing sections that are either perpetually under construction or are for vendors only. Who knows.

P.J. Grady is like Aladdin's Cave: There's lots of cool treasures inside, but you wouldn't know it since you can't see inside because not everything is listed on their site. You can't exactly hold Rob as a proverbial hostage on the phone while you interrogate him on what all they have. Such as how Rob can reuse your A/C hose fittings to sell you a brand new set of barrier hoses, and who knows what other cool toys and products he sells. But unless it comes up in a thread where someone mentions what items he has, or Rob himself comments, we never know what parts he has for sale.

[DMCVegas]

What's the best way to clean the injectors. All of mine are plugged somewhat. I was considering soaking in Berryman's

You need one of these:

https://mercedessource.com/store/cis-gas-fuel-injector-spray-pattern-tester-and-nozzle-cleaner

[Lwanmtr]

You need one of these:

https://mercedessource.com/store/cis-gas-fuel-injector-spray-pattern-tester-and-nozzle-cleaner


Is there something like that that doesnt cost $180?

[DMCVegas]

Is there something like that that doesnt cost $180?

If you're handy enough and into fabrication, sure.

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/DieselInjectorTester

Just swap out the pressure gauge for a 100psi unit and use a fitting/steel injector line for the K-Jet injectors.

[David T]

What's the best way to clean the injectors. All of mine are plugged somewhat. I was considering soaking in Berryman's

You can try running a can of Techron in a full tank of fuel. If the injectors aren't too bad that can help. The only way to really clean and test the injectors is to use the injector cleaner/tester shown in the Workshop Manual. Soaking them or using an ultrasonic cleaner can't clean them. You might be able to find a Volvo dealer that has one or you can send them out to your favorite Delorean vendor. Figure on buying a set of injector seals too. The old ones get hard and leak vacuum. You will also need some new copper seals when you reinstall the injectors.

[Fanatic]

Removed and cleaned out my gas tank today. It was full of rust chunks. I also replaced the fuel filter and changed the hoses on the coolant pipes. I had my buddy send the injectors through his ultra-sonic cleaner. I then put them in carb-cleaner soak. They've been in there for 4 days now. Should be good.

[Lwanmtr]

Cool...sounds like your on you way to getting her running.

Gas tank is a bit of a pain to clean out, but worth it.

[Fanatic]

Yeah, it ran before but barely. The gas tank removal and cleaning was easy. I wedged it out from above with a 2x6. I dumped a gallon of orange cleaner in it and filled it with water. I sloshed it around and let it sit for two hours. I drained it, rinsed it out, and dried it out- clean as new.