Adding aftermarket radio, Looking for switched and constant 12V power.

[Nuclearbacon]

I want to place an add-a-fuse onto two circuits in the fuse block to add my low draw aftermarket radio.

Looking at our lovely diagram...

http://i528.photobucket.com/albums/dd329/nuclearbacon2008/DeLorean%2010588/Electrical/Fuseblock.jpeg

I see Fuse 11 labeled as "Radio Clock, Power windows, Gear selector lamp"

I see Fuse 17 as Cigar Lighter and Clocks.

I'm thinking that my windows only work when the key is on, and the cigar lighter works always, So fuse 11 would be my switched, and Fuse 17 would be my constant?

The two clock labels are throwing me off.

This is the radio I'm installing. The RetroSound Model 3. Customize-able buttons etc, I chose black on black with black. It should look really incog in the dash.

It has Bluetooth, no CD player, Two USB inputs (iPod, iPhone, or USB Flash Drive), 2 Aux inputs, 32 million colors for the display, super simple. A 32gb flash drive under the dash and I'm set.

http://i528.photobucket.com/albums/dd329/nuclearbacon2008/DeLorean%2010588/Electrical/RetroSound.jpeg

http://i528.photobucket.com/albums/dd329/nuclearbacon2008/DeLorean%2010588/Electrical/RetroSound%20Model%203.jpg

Thoughts, comments, concerns? Thank you!

[Gregadeth]

The stock wiring already has one constant 12v and one switched behind the radio (green and purple wires, can't remember which is which) and they are both fused. All you need is an adapter to go from the original connector to the new wiring of the aftermarket radio.

[Morpheus]

The purple wire is constant 12v and the green/white wire is switched 12v if your factory wiring hasn't been altered.

You will definitely want to check the inline fuses on both wires when installing a newer, more modern head unit. The stock inline fuses are 5A, but most newer head units pull 10A on the constant lead. So, double check your new HU documentation and verify the voltage and change out the fuse on the purple wire to match it if necessary.

Alternately, you could run a new (fused of course) power lead directly to the battery and just use the stock switched lead for power sensing (on/off).

[OverlandMan]

I'd like to know how you end up liking that radio once you get it the install completed. I've eye-balled those in the past.

[Nuclearbacon]

The stock radio connector was long gone. All I have are erroneous old speaker connections which I've gutted. I can pull constant power from the purple wires, I'll probably run a new switched as I mentioned from my above plan.

Total custom job over here :)

[opethmike]

I love the retro look of that radio. Will fit in real nicely with the rest of the interior.

[DMCMW Dave]

Don't use an "add-a-Fuse". The fuse block is already pretty marginal. Find a source and solder-tap or lug it.

[Nuclearbacon]

Don't use an "add-a-Fuse". The fuse block is already pretty marginal. Find a source and solder-tap or lug it.

Roger wilco.

Ill look for the green/white for switched. The radio has an inline 15A fuse built into the wiring which is nice. I'll make sure all power is fused.

[Shep]

If you want the original harness, one of the clubs has them on their site. It's an extension, so you get both ends in one convenient foot-long package. I'll look.

EDIT: Fort Worth (http://dfwdmc.com/store_parts.html). $12.95 -- do yourself a favor and wire the speakers separate from the harness. Otherwise you'll need a common ground adapter from Crutchfield.

[Nicholas R]

If you want the original harness, one of the clubs has them on their site. It's an extension, so you get both ends in one convenient foot-long package. I'll look.

EDIT: Fort Worth (http://dfwdmc.com/store_parts.html). $12.95 -- do yourself a favor and wire the speakers separate from the harness. Otherwise you'll need a common ground adapter from Crutchfield.

Last I heard, someone ordered one of these but never ended up getting it. Not sure if that is actually currently available.

This is the thread: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?15402-Is-the-DFW-DMC-Delorean-sales-site-a-fraud&highlight=harness

[Shep]

Wat. Geez guys, get on the ball. Update the page or ship...

I have one and won't be using it. The connectors are fairly standard, even DigiKey has them. But if you want, I can send it your way. I think I labeled the wires individually even. Hit me up via PM if you're interested.

There's a few other sites like Eastern Beaver that carry the connectors too (the one with the beaver riding the motorcycle). Or was it British Wiring I'm thinking of?

[Nuclearbacon]

Wat. Geez guys, get on the ball. Update the page or ship...

I have one and won't be using it. The connectors are fairly standard, even DigiKey has them. But if you want, I can send it your way. I think I labeled the wires individually even. Hit me up via PM if you're interested.

There's a few other sites like Eastern Beaver that carry the connectors too (the one with the beaver riding the motorcycle). Or was it British Wiring I'm thinking of?

I really appreciate it! The PO had done...something to the original wiring harness. I found the female end back there but all cut up. So I removed the added wires going to the speakers and I will be wiring the speakers directly with new wiring to the radio. I'll be looking for the Green/White wire for switched power (didn't get a chance yesterday) behind the radio, and I'll be running constant 12v from the purple wire (with a fuse inline on both)

I also purchased an antenna extension cable to connect to the power antenna for AM/FM signal, and I found all the wiring for that too (disconnected behind the driver seat) I'll be wiring that up and see if the antenna goes up! (I hope so, I totally want that look, otherwise I'll be replacing that)

The radio is now sitting in its home, waiting for wiring! I'm on the radio tonight and tomorrow night (like broadcasting, not standing on a radio), so I won't be able to mess with it maybe until Friday. Saturday I'm going to be messing with the AC system too, and bleeding the brakes. FUN!!!!!! :)

Going back to my original idea of the add-a-fuse, the reason I felt the add-a-fuse would be ok, was because I was adding it to a circuit that exists already, but isn't used. I hardly ever use my cigar lighter, and I don't have a clock. So I was literally just using the fuse-plug as a receptacle and running the same rating out of it. But! If the fuse block is as bad as people say (mine is in fine condition, no melty friends, and all new fuses and relays from 2011 DMC) I'll just tap into a wire. My idea was instead of finding switched wires and constant wires, I'd come straight off the fuse block. I totally get why not to do it and doubling up, I just figured I was re-purposing a non-used part. my $0.02

Thank you all for the responses. I learn something every day! I love this forum!

[Shep]

Sure thing! PM me your address, I'll get it sent out soon. Need to grab it from my old house, won't be able to until Friday evening, but definitely will send it your way!


I'll be wiring [the power antenna] up and see if the antenna goes up! (I hope so, I totally want that look, otherwise I'll be replacing that)Save replacement, they can be rebuilt rather easily. Usually needs a bit of lubricant on the sections. Once disassembled, WD-40 the shafts, wipe with paper towels until clean, let dry, wipe again, then use silicone lubricant and smother it on there. Something like this stuff (https://www.wd40specialist.com/products/silicone-lubricant/) from WD-40's "professional" line. I've been using that approach on my 3D printers with excellent results.

I've always been a fan of "fix it to better-than-replacement quality". A little elbow grease can literally save you thousands on these cars. Heck, saved myself $30 by re-soldering a cheap Chinese power supply that had terrible solder joints, some even missing (there was arcing and an almost-fire on my soldering desk when I first turned it on, to put it that way). After fixing it, that sucker will last for 30 years or more, well beyond the six months Chinese factories make them for.


I'm on the radio tonight and tomorrow night (like broadcasting, not standing on a radio)Aww... :frown: The visual was so appealing too...


Going back to my original idea of the add-a-fuse, the reason I felt the add-a-fuse would be ok, was because I was adding it to a circuit that exists already, but isn't used. I hardly ever use my cigar lighter, and I don't have a clock. So I was literally just using the fuse-plug as a receptacle and running the same rating out of it. But! If the fuse block is as bad as people say (mine is in fine condition, no melty friends, and all new fuses and relays from 2011 DMC) I'll just tap into a wire. My idea was instead of finding switched wires and constant wires, I'd come straight off the fuse block. I totally get why not to do it and doubling up, I just figured I was re-purposing a non-used part. my $0.02Add-a-fuse is great for low power circuits like dash cams and such. Not so much for radios where the entirety of the sound is powered straight from that fuse tap. Frankly, I'd almost argue a tiny amplifier would do wonders. Nothing beefy, heck 100W would be overkill to me, just something small that can give you both better sound quality and a valid excuse to hook up straight to the battery.

[Shep]

Found 'em: Eastern Beaver (https://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/110_Connectors/110_connectors.html) (Ctrl-F for "9 position")

British Wiring does NOT carry it, but does carry other DeLorean connectors (most notably the "church steeple" kind used in the doors and in the front turn signals).

[Nuclearbacon]

Amazing! Ok check it out. I believe this is my black ground wire (bottom left) and the green/white switched power right?? (right hand side?) Both have white connectors.

http://i528.photobucket.com/albums/dd329/nuclearbacon2008/DeLorean%2010588/Electrical/Green-white%20and%20black.jpeg

Can someone confirm? My battery is out of the car :)

[Shep]

Okay, crap, I cannot for the life of me find the harness anywhere. I'm kinda mad at myself, I wanted to pick up some door lenses too and failed to find them either. Meanwhile all the sellable parts I have are still there...

Anyways, here's a thought too: since you're completely redoing the stock sound system, and the original harness lets you do at most six speakers (assuming GND, ACC, 12V are the first three and all three separate grounds) with fairly low gauge wiring, I've seen some guys pick up run-of-the-mill Metra harnesses, both "reverse" (car's end) and forward (radio's end), and simply splice the wiring into it.

My personal favorite for the task, the metra 7*-1761. The 71-1761 (http://www.metraonline.com/part/71-1761) is the end that splices into the car and plugs into the radio, the 70-1761 (http://www.metraonline.com/part/70-1761) is the end that you would attach to the new radio. Found on my Dad's 1993 Jag and also on my 2015 Impreza, and is labeled "1987-up Toyota/Scion, so it's seen widespread continual use across a variety of manufacturers and the wire gauge is thick enough to not be restricting either. It won't power a sub, but it will most definitely be plenty to deafen you with the woofer mids if you so choose (the radio you got won't deafen you, but should sound awesome truth be told).

They're available from a variety of places, honestly, eBay + PayPal and you'll find it dirt cheap. Best Buy wants $17 each for them, I've seen far lower elsewhere.

EDIT:
Oh, and if you later want to add a sub to the system, that wiring setup, as long as you wire it the same as the Metra harness is labeled, will let you put aftermarket "under-seat" Subaru guys there. Can be found for $50 to $100 a pop on eBay. I have one myself, it doesn't sound bad actually, and is an 8" sub. Flat guy, the plugs are an "in-line" style, so no splicing required. Other manufacturers might have other options too.

[Nuclearbacon]

Great idea! I'm kinda... already doing that ... sorta. The RetroSound gives me a wire output (like the metra) and then I'll just run new speaker wire, connect ground, constant, and switched, and the radio has pre-outs for everything if I want to expand. I have a beefy sound system in my 2.65rs Subaru that I built, this is just going to be some tunes. I should be able to implement my plan this weekend... as well as bleeding the brakes and possibly redoing the AC.

[Shep]

Relevant schematic (https://i.imgur.com/xlQjMoD.png) (I7 and J7 for radio).

Black is usually ground, yes. Best way to tell: multimeter set to measure ohms, touch one of the fenders and the other probe on the wires. Fenders are grounded under the bonnet's "slam padding" (there's a term for that stuff, I don't know it offhand though), so it will measure continuity.

EDIT: Also look here for searchable versions: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?17-DMC-12-color-wiring-diagram

[David T]

The body panels are grounded by bonding wires to each other and eventually to the frame. Don't count on it though, those bonding wires corrode to the point that they no longer connect. Best to test at the battery negative terminal to verify ground connections. While it is true black is ground for the wiring harness, don't trust that. Very common for someone to add or modify things and use black wire and not necessarily for grounds. There is a grounding point right by the radio on the metal frame under the console. If you are adding a more powerful radio the best advice is to run a separate ground wire just for that. The rule-of-thumb is that the ground wire should be at least as heavy as the power lead. If you are running a new, thicker wire to power the radio then you should be doing the same for the ground. If I was doing this to my car I would run that bigger ground wire to the metal frame of the console and then back to the battery.

[Nuclearbacon]

I have grounding wire twice the gauge as my power wire. I will run a new ground to the metal in the car and test. I will test the green/white for 12v switched and report back!

[Shep]

Oops, typo on my part, should read "easy way to tell", not "best way" -- best way is, of course, right at the ground terminal, even with the battery removed. More or less, if it's a known good ground, it becomes quite easy to have that guy there.

Unless of course you like wires, in which case insulated alligator clip to the ground terminal and to a single wire that you connect to your multimeter. Can be a bit of a bear though.


If I was doing this to my car...Adding my approach: I'd skip any and all line-level audio output from the radio entirely. Keep it signal level, go to a dedicated amp that connects directly to the battery. Far easier to do this when the battery is so easily accessible to itself and the radio, and when you have the most convenient route for running wires right underneath that ashtray / shifter knob (I've abused the hell out of that one actually). That said, I'm a bit of an audiophile, so I do strive for more clarity in the sound, which necessitates a good amp by default. Or a super expensive radio. But that's just me.

Grounding wire should match for the radio. In and out ideally matches. There's an electrical reason for this, I'm not well versed in the area where wire width and length come into play, but the Daves on this forum are and should be able to clarify that one.

[Nuclearbacon]

The RetroSound is IN! It works great! Sound out of my front speakers is perfect, my rears are destroyed. I have new 4x10 speakers but the path to get to the old ones is rediculous! Especially since they taunt you with them being SO close yet you have to remove the entire side of the car. Ugh. When the rears bug me enough I'll dive in.

Ok pros of the RetroSound:
-looks stock
-looks STOCK (does not look like a radio to steal)
-I have a huge flash drive under the dash with ALL my favorite music and ability to plug in my iPhone and my girlfriends ipod/iPhone.
-their customer service! I had an issue where I broke one of the stalks and the receiving plug in the radio. They took care of me! It was totally my fault too.
-install was easy (with your help!)
-simplicity of display.
-color matched to your dash lights!

Cons:
-its custom so it takes a while to get everything to fit how you like
-the buttons slightly stick so I'll have to loosen up the stalks and adjust them, but should be fine after
-no cd player(who cares!)
-I'll try to think of others (maybe cost? But it wasn't that expensive compared to most radios)

I have a second radio that I purchased when I thought I fubar'd the first one. It's on it's way, all it needs is black knobs and a black faceplate. ...if anyone is interested. I'll be posting it in the for sale section when it arrives.

This weekend the new antenna will go in!

I am SO stoked! Thank you all!

[Shep]

Great to hear it! "no CD player" is a feature these days, nothing wrong with that. They're called "multimedia" players as they focus more on USB than old technologies. They don't do flip-outs screens by chance, do they?

For rear speakers, don't bother replacing the 4 x 10's. As ypu pointed out, they are impossible to replace and sound awful by default. Way too short and wide to give any good sound. Some guys do 6 x 9's in the rear parcel shelf (which *can* sound good with the right cone material to minimize distortion), others do 6.5" there too. Somw do kick panel 6.5" mounts. Parcel shelf guys mount on the rear firewall inside, ask a local audio shop for advice. They're a dying breed, guaranteed you'll get deals from them anyhow.

Whatever you do, avoid the DMC Cal kick panels like the plague. Their sub boxes get rave reviews, but I have the kick panels on me and they are shit. They are designed like tweeter enclosures with a 6" cutout on both sides, a minuscule amount of air inside anyhow, and those perforated metal strips normally used to mount tweeters. It's like they were designed to be an answer to the question "how do we make the car sound worse?". They at least tried to spare me from my decision by jerry-rigging one box out of five torn-up ones and lots of duct tape, so can't talk too much smack, but there is just no good that can ever come of that design seriously.

If DMC Cal happens to read this:.giving it only one exposed side, more internal air volume, and increase the hole to 6.5" while allowing "oversized" i.e. 7" woofers on request. Bam, zero to hero in a few simple changes. Porting that badass would make it a beast. Oh, and angle it up guys, I don't go to concerts that play music at shoe-level. Pointing it straight out assumes I have a head unit that knows what "sound height" means.