View Full Version : Wanted OEM radiator ducting
Drive Stainless
09-30-2017, 03:45 PM
Anyone have one in good or repairable condition?
Bitsyncmaster
09-30-2017, 05:27 PM
Do you mean the fan shroud?
SS Spoiler
09-30-2017, 05:31 PM
Iv'e been running without a radiator shroud for ten years.
Three core radiator, and Toby's fans , no overheating problems.
Drive Stainless
09-30-2017, 05:44 PM
Part 105506
I am reaching the 220 temperature mark while on the highway on hot days, but not when in stop-and-go traffic.
Part 105506
I am reaching the 220 temperature mark while on the highway on hot days, but not when in stop-and-go traffic.
I got one that's beaten up and cracked. Looks like ass. I can take pics, but honestly, I would be uncomfortable selling it for more than $80 without feeling like I ripped someone off given the DMCH guy (http://store.delorean.com/p-9672-radiator-duct.aspx) sells for $181
Drive Stainless
10-04-2017, 09:27 PM
I got one that's beaten up and cracked. Looks like ass.
Sounds like typical damage caused by train horns, yes?
Sounds like typical damage caused by train horns, yes?What's your vendetta dude?
Drive Stainless
10-04-2017, 10:00 PM
What's your vendetta dude?
Just saying hello. :)
Just saying hello. :)It's been six months dude, let it go... The shroud was demolished by the PO, no need to be an ass about it
Drive Stainless
10-04-2017, 10:21 PM
It's been six months dude, let it go...
Train horns transcend time and space. Here is a scientific illustration showing what happens to the universe when someone *toots* a train horn:
https://img.purch.com/w/660/aHR0cDovL3d3dy5zcGFjZS5jb20vaW1hZ2VzL2kvMDAwLzAyOC 81MTAvb3JpZ2luYWwvc2h1dHRlcnN0b2NrXzI1MDE2MDM1Lmpw Zw==
Since Matt's clearly not wanting a sale here (why does this thread exist again?!)
ANDREW, clean out your inbox, I tried responding to your latest and got a full message.
Drive Stainless
10-05-2017, 11:50 PM
Since Matt's clearly not wanting a sale here (why does this thread exist again?!)
ANDREW, clean out your inbox, I tried responding to your latest and got a full message.
Post pics!
HAHA yeah right like I'd ever sell to you after that stunt. Nice try Ed B, nice try...
Drive Stainless
10-06-2017, 06:33 AM
Then get lost!
ritztoys
10-15-2017, 02:49 PM
Part 105506
I am reaching the 220 temperature mark while on the highway on hot days, but not when in stop-and-go traffic.
My car doesn't have the radiator duct. What I notice is above 3000 rpms the cooling system begins to get hot, everything is perfect in my cooling system w/new coolant.
Does this ducting solve that issue?
I have no other issue with my cooling system in stop & go traffic either, just a small issue I would like to solve.
When I reduce my speeds (rpm) the issue goes away. :dunno:
I don't see the problem(s). The boiling point of the coolant is ~257° F (125° C), if you have a 50/50 mix and a 15 psi cap.
ritztoys
10-16-2017, 08:47 AM
I don't see the problem(s). The boiling point of the coolant is ~257° F (125° C), if you have a 50/50 mix and a 15 psi cap.
I guess I should have been more specific, In all highway speeds my cooling system operates as it should, even in traffic. But when I'm traveling at highway speeds, with the engine rpms at or above 3000. (I do have an automatic transmission) The gauge begins to start showing higher temps.
So my question is does this ducting help or hinder the efficiency of the cooling system?
(My little voice says that maybe the increased rpms 'pumps the coolant quicker than normal and doesn't get the chance of proper cooling also?)
I guess I should have been more specific,... Me too lol
Most engines are "warmed up" at 145F, but you want it to be at least 180F for the lubrication system and combustion..., 195F for those with O2 sensors. Most have the fan(s) come on at ~200F, but a stock DeLorean otterstat turns them on at ~220F (according to the gauge, a POS imho. Check this as there are replacements using different values). From here, the fan(s) should keep it below 230F.
So for a D, !95F to 220F is the "normal" range. >230F is where most indicate excessive heat via gauge/alarm.
I'd suggest verifying the gauge reading by taking the cap off, warming it up fully, then shooting the coolant in the tank directly with a laser thermometer. If they are close and it has always shows <230F, I wouldn't worry about it...especially since you (two) say you don't have problems at mid-low speeds and that is where the ducts/shrouds are needed - you don't really need fans at high speeds...
BUT, I'd install the ducts for mid-low speeds, and GP, anyway - Without question if driving in the hotter areas.
Bitsyncmaster
10-16-2017, 01:40 PM
I think the stock otterstat is 96 C on and 88 C off. That would be 204.8 F and 190.4 F
ritztoys
10-16-2017, 03:11 PM
Me too lol
Most engines are "warmed up" at 145F, but you want it to be at least 180F for the lubrication system and combustion..., 195F for those with O2 sensors. Most have the fan(s) come on at ~200F, but a stock DeLorean otterstat turns them on at ~220F (according to the gauge, a POS imho. Check this as there are replacements using different values). From here, the fan(s) should keep it below 230F.
So for a D, !95F to 220F is the "normal" range. >230F is where most indicate excessive heat via gauge/alarm.
I'd suggest verifying the gauge reading by taking the cap off, warming it up fully, then shooting the coolant in the tank directly with a laser thermometer. If they are close and it has always shows <230F, I wouldn't worry about it...especially since you (two) say you don't have problems at mid-low speeds and that is where the ducts/shrouds are needed - you don't really need fans at high speeds...
BUT, I'd install the ducts for mid-low speeds, and GP, anyway - Without question if driving in the hotter areas.
Thanks Ron, I'll perform those temperature checks when I take my D out again. I'm guessing the PO had a mechanic remove it from some kind of minor damage, I installed a 3-row bass/copper Radiator.
When I first got my car, the original leaked at the regular places we all have seen. Luckily for me I live in the mid-west were the temps are getting close to those perfect driving days here during the fall season.
I think the stock otterstat is 96 C on and 88 C off. That would be 204.8 F and 190.4 F
That's close for a D gauge lol
Now that the thread is thoroughly hijacked, who can hook Matt up? :devil:
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