SpecialTAuto New Battery Ground Cables

[Chris 16409]

I was perusing Hervey's web site the other day and I came across his new battery ground cables:

http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/delorean-battery-ground-wir.jpg

These two cables replace the single original one. The longer cable goes from the battery's negative terminal to a bolt on the transmission. The shorter cables goes from that same bolt to the original grounding spot which is next to the trailing arm bushing. This new set up sounded like a good idea, so I ordered a set of the cables.

When I removed the original ground wire, I inspected it to see if it was bad. If you look at the pictures, you can see why a new ground cable is in order. The frame terminal pulled off very easily, and you can see some stray wires on the battery terminal end.

It doesn't take very long to install the new wires. The tricky part may be removing the original ground cable because you need to remove the bolt which also attaches the trailing arm bushing plate. If you haven't done this before, these bolts are usually double nutted. One of the nuts is welded onto the frame, and the other is a free spinning one. If you don't remove the free spinning nut first, you are liable to snap the bolt off. I recommend doing this on wheel ramps so the weight of the car is on the suspension. The bolt in question will come out and will go back in easier.

When you route the new ground cables, the shorter one will interfere with the passenger air deflector plate (trailing arm cover). To fix this, I cut a new "gap" in the plate to accommodate the cable. It worked out well. Even if you don't get this new upgrade, I suggest you check your ground cable for wear, and at least replace it with a NOS one.

[Mike C.]

Chris,

Im glad you installed this, because I have it sitting in my living room right now. Was going to install it next weekend. Question for you: The new mounting terminal - where did you run it to? I remember the website saying to run it to a transmission bolt or something like that.

[Chris 16409]

Hey Mike I'm attaching some pictures of the installed cables. The cables attach to the transmission bolt closest to the "end cap." I tried another bolt in the middle of the transmission, but the shorter cable didn't reach back to the frame. The other pictures show how the cables are routed once the air deflector plate is installed. You can see my modification of the plate to allow the shorter cable through. The brass mounting stud goes to the negative terminal of the battery. Hope this helps.

[Mike C.]

EXCELLENT pictures! Thanks Chris! That will definitely help alot!

[DeloreanJoshQ]

I installed these yesterday. They are very high quality. However due to the shortness of the two cables, I had limited choices on how to route and connect them. I ended up running from the battery to the transmission mounting bracket and from there to the trailing arm bushing retainer. However, if both of the cables were little longer, I could have run them cleaner through the heater hose hole above the frame so that I wouldnt have to run them under the frame with the parking brake cable and also cut/modify the existing hole in the trailing arm shield/air deflector so it can be reinstalled....
I'd like to see pics and instructions of where and how they are suppossed to be routed and connected from Hervey.
Also, after thinking about it, are two cables really necessary? If you connect to either the trailing arm or transmission they two are grounded to each other anyway. Clearly, connecting to the transmission is the way to go at the bracket..the rest of the chassis is then covered along with the drivetrain....

Just my two cents on this product...

[DeLorean03]

I have bought this as well and will be installing around July 15th. Auto transmission for me, and as I understand there are two different kits depending on the transmissions. So, does the battery cable go to the frame, and then the other wire go from the frame to the transmission? Just wanted to ask those who have already made the install.

[DMC02766]

Wow I havent seen that on his site before.. guess I need to go there more often! When I was trying to figure out some issues going on with mine I tracked down the frame terminal bolt and it was rusted something terrible- I ended up replacing it with a stainless one. Good tip to check that!

[Chris 16409]

So, does the battery cable go to the frame, and then the other wire go from the frame to the transmission? Just wanted to ask those who have already made the install.

I installed this on my manual transmission. Here's what you do:

-Remove the original ground wire going from the battery to the frame (bolt that holds the trailing arm bushing plate on)

-Take the longer of the two cables and run it from the negative terminal on the battery to the transmission. Use the bolt that's closest to the front of the car.

-Run the shorter wire from the same bolt of the transmission back to the original frame mounting spot.

[DeLorean03]

I installed this on my manual transmission. Here's what you do:

-Remove the original ground wire going from the battery to the frame (bolt that holds the trailing arm bushing plate on)

-Take the longer of the two cables and run it from the negative terminal on the battery to the transmission. Use the bolt that's closest to the front of the car.

-Run the shorter wire from the same bolt of the transmission back to the original frame mounting spot.

Thank you, sir!

[stevedmc]

Also, after thinking about it, are two cables really necessary?

No but I like the idea of reduncancy. I installed Hervey's ground wire about a month ago and am very happy with the results. My old wire seemed fine upon inspection but after installing the new ground wires I noticed my volt gauge reading about one volt higher.

[Farrar]

Perhaps it's time for a ground bus, Steve? ;)

Farrar

[stevedmc]

Perhaps it's time for a ground bus, Steve? ;)

Farrar

What I have now seems to be working fine but what Bill has done is pretty dang impressive. Are you planning to do this soon?

[Farrar]

What I have now seems to be working fine but what Bill has done is pretty dang impressive. Are you planning to do this soon?

I have the cable and terminals but nothing else. You need a special crimp tool for that size of cable, but Bill said he had success soldering the terminals on. So I will need heat-shrink plus all of the necessary hardware for installation. I will probably tackle this project the next time I have the center console removed.

Farrar

[content22207]

what Bill has done is pretty dang impressive.

The idea comes from railroad locomotives, which are frame neutral. They have a bus from the hood to the cab into which every negative is tied (negatives are not attached to the frame -- in fact there is a ground fault relay that will trip if any negative voltage is detected on the frame. Trips for positive shorts too).

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Morpheus]

...what Bill has done is pretty dang impressive.

What has Bill done?

[Farrar]

What has Bill done?

Bill has created an uninterrupted ground line made almost exclusively of 4AWG battery cable from the engine to the radiator fans. There are pics in another thread; root around for them. It's a joy to behold.

Farrar

[Chris 16409]

I've seen the pictures of Bill's ground wire set up. It looks like it takes a while to do since he taps into all those bundles of black ground wires. There must be a dozen of those all around the car. Bill do you solders all of those connections? Is is bad to use the cables that already have the terminals crimped on?

[Morpheus]

Does that setup create a ground loop or audible whine through the radio? I had run a long ground from my HU to the battery on my previous car and could not get rid of the alternator whine.

[Farrar]

I had run a long ground from my HU to the battery on my previous car and could not get rid of the alternator whine.

Not even with a choke or two?

Farrar

[stevedmc]

Does that setup create a ground loop or audible whine through the radio? I had run a long ground from my HU to the battery on my previous car and could not get rid of the alternator whine.

Nope.

Edit: I am refering to Hervey's gound cables. I can't speak for Bill, but I have seen his radio antenna pop up while driving. This leads me to assume he listens to the radio.

[outatym2001]

Thanks Chris of Fresno for starting this thread and posting pics.
I finally attached the two new black Ground Cables and Brass Fitting from John Hervey onto the side of my manual transmission.
I made sure to have this installed before hooking up my two amps to run my sub woofer and speakers (someday).

Please see my six install pictures below.

[jawn101]

Thanks Chris of Fresno for starting this thread and posting pics.
I finally attached the two new black Ground Cables and Brass Fitting from John Hervey onto the side of my manual transmission.
I made sure to have this installed before hooking up my two amps to run my sub woofer and speakers (someday).

Please see my six install pictures below.

Wow, that's an interesting way to do it. Isn't that post the battery terminal? I just pulled one of the transmission case bolts (nearest to the nose cone) and put the ground cables under it, then used that brass post to screw into the battery.

[KMC-DMC]

Thanks Chris of Fresno for starting this thread and posting pics.
I finally attached the two new black Ground Cables and Brass Fitting from John Hervey onto the side of my manual transmission.
I made sure to have this installed before hooking up my two amps to run my sub woofer and speakers (someday).

Please see my six install pictures below.

Thanks for the pics. I have the kit and will be doing this soon.

Kevin

[DeLorean03]

Please see my six install pictures below.

Thank you for such a thorough picture set. Well done!

[Domi]

Yes, thanks for these pictures to helps us to connect these ground wires, helps a lot :aniclap:

[Kenny_Z]

I bought a set of these from Autozone in the lengths I wanted. I went from battery to transmission (same location you have) then from the engine off an exhaust support bolt to the passenger side frame ground next to the engine. I had an extra cable so I grounded the alternator to that frame ground as well.

[outatym2001]

You are all welcome regarding the pictures I posted.
After having an email conversation with John Hervey it was explained to me the Brass Fitting attaches to the Battery at the Negative threaded socket.
And the two Negative Cables are supposed to connect to existing bolts on the transmission where they can be torqued properly.
DeLorean Workshop Manual page A:03:05
Torque Figures
Manual Transmission
Half Casing Bolts
Diameter 8 mm 22 1/2 lb. ft. - 31 Nm
Diameter 10 mm 37 lb. ft. - 50 Nm

Automatic Transmission
Half Casing Bolts
Diam 8 mm 22 1/2 lb. ft. - 31Nm
Diam 10 mm 32 lb. ft. - 44 Nm

I already have two perfectly good stainless steel bolts and washers attached to my battery and I don't see a reason for the Brass Fitting except for where i attached it onto the side of the manual transmission.
I think my idea is pretty ingenious. Only time will tell if what I did will last.
I honestly believe after having driven my DeLorean for approximately 85,000 miles (136,794 kilometers) in eleven years my electrical system charges better and starting the engine is more instantaneous since installing the cables. I'm glad I installed them.

[1batt4u]

Hey Mike I'm attaching some pictures of the installed cables. The cables attach to the transmission bolt closest to the "end cap." I tried another bolt in the middle of the transmission, but the shorter cable didn't reach back to the frame. The other pictures show how the cables are routed once the air deflector plate is installed. You can see my modification of the plate to allow the shorter cable through. The brass mounting stud goes to the negative terminal of the battery. Hope this helps.

I am ready to install John Hervey's ground cables.

I am a little confused with a few things. I know about one cable going to the battery, but the other end of it goes to the transmission mount on my car. You put it on the transmission itself. You connected the other cable to it as well. Where does the other cable go to?? Which other cable do I replace? Is it the one that sits on the chassis right around the coolant bottle and goes right by the ignition coil area??

[Delorean Industries]

I am ready to install John Hervey's ground cables.

I am a little confused with a few things. I know about one cable going to the battery, but the other end of it goes to the transmission mount on my car. You put it on the transmission itself. You connected the other cable to it as well. Where does the other cable go to?? Which other cable do I replace? Is it the one that sits on the chassis right around the coolant bottle and goes right by the ignition coil area??

It is alright to run an additional cable to your transmission. I would not recommend not having one to the stock location though as well.

[1batt4u]

Other than the battery cable, is this the other ground cable I replace with John Hervey's new ground cables??

13181

[jawn101]

Other than the battery cable, is this the other ground cable I replace with John Hervey's new ground cables??

13181

No. The second cable he provides is additional to the stock design.

You run one from the battery to the transmission. The other one goes from the same bolt on the transmission to the stock ground location, on the bracket for the passenger side TAB.

[1batt4u]

No. The second cable he provides is additional to the stock design.

You run one from the battery to the transmission. The other one goes from the same bolt on the transmission to the stock ground location, on the bracket for the passenger side TAB.

Ok, sort of got it! I definitely know from battery to transmission bolt, then the other one from the same bolt on the transmission to........ little confused which bracket you mean. Can you or someone here post a picture??

[jawn101]

Ok, sort of got it! I definitely know from battery to transmission bolt, then the other one from the same bolt on the transmission to........ little confused which bracket you mean. Can you or someone here post a picture??

The stock location. Do you not already have a ground cable installed?

https://store.delorean.com/images/Category/large/5-3-0.jpg

One of the bolts holding #27 to the frame, passenger side (I believe it was the forward most one) is the stock ground location.

[danicaB]

Great post, surely it helps. Thanks for sharing the pictures as well.

[1batt4u]

Now I understand!! was a bit confused!!!

I actually started on this, but can not remove that bolt on #27!!! :evil3: Don't understand why it is so hard!!

[EdR5150]

The bolt that holds the retaining plate on? If I remember correctly, that bolt threads into the frame, and there might be a jam nut behind the frame. Some cars have the jam but, and some don't. I've heard some people break the bolt trying to get it loose, not knowing the jam nut is there.

[deloumis]

The bolt that holds the retaining plate on? If I remember correctly, that bolt threads into the frame, and there might be a jam nut behind the frame. Some cars have the jam but, and some don't. I've heard some people break the bolt trying to get it loose, not knowing the jam nut is there.

Yeah mine didn't have the nut, on the opposite side it did have a nut. I ended up breaking both bolts on the driver side and none on the passenger side. I removed them to replace the TABs' bushings so in your case you don't have to remove all bolts.

[1batt4u]

The bolt that holds the retaining plate on? If I remember correctly, that bolt threads into the frame, and there might be a jam nut behind the frame. Some cars have the jam but, and some don't. I've heard some people break the bolt trying to get it loose, not knowing the jam nut is there.

I just snapped it off!!! Sucks!!

[1batt4u]

Reading the earlier posts, was I supposed to jack up the car a bit? I have the rear wheels on ramps.

[EdR5150]

Yikes! Sorry I didn't reply sooner (28 mins?). Hopefully the head snapped clean off, and you can bring the bolt out from the other side. Jacking the car up would take some weight off the trailing arms. Probably not a bad idea, but I'm not sure if it's necessary. The vendor should have provided some instructions... but that's another topic.

[1batt4u]

Is it ok to put a S/S bolt there, since the battery cable will be bolted on there?

[EdR5150]

If it were me, I would use steel (not stainless) since it'a a better conductor. Plated steel would be best to avoid corrosion. If that new cable grounds in two spots instead of this one spot, that maybe stainless is ok. Either way, use some anti seize.

[1batt4u]

How to get the rubber piece on the body after new wire installed? An easier way to get it on?

[1batt4u]

Anyone know how to remove the snapped bolt??

Was fighting all day, but nothing!!

REALLY need help with this!!!

[DeLorean03]

Hey everyone,

Sorry to bring up old threads, but I created a quick (and shaky) video of what I did to install the cables. I'll take some photos for reference so everyone can clearly see what I did. Enjoy!

http://youtu.be/O82Mn2jhyRs


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O82Mn2jhyRs&feature=youtu.be

[Domi]

Nice video, thanks for sharing ;)

[sdg3205]

Would there be any benefit to running a ground from the alternator bolt to the transmission bolt (where it meets the cable from the battery) then on to the frame as usual? Just curious. Perhaps the stock ground from the block to the lower cross member is enough for back there, but I've heard that bolt can corrode or get dirty over time and build resistance.

[Kenny_Z]

I run a cable from the alternator's (GM alternator) ground to the engine block side of the engine to frame connection. Probably not needed but I had an extra cable so I figured it couldn't hurt.

[DeLorean03]

I will admit, since I did this - my car takes....man...maybe 0.5 a second to crank now. It is nearly instantaneous. My car has always cranked fast, strong, and well - but now - it almost seems like it has more power when the engine turns over - like it's not so hard on the battery now. Definitely worth taking the time to do, and it's not so bad if you do the same setup I did (as an auto trans owner). Thanks again, Kenny, for the help!


Would there be any benefit to running a ground from the alternator bolt to the transmission bolt (where it meets the cable from the battery) then on to the frame as usual? Just curious. Perhaps the stock ground from the block to the lower cross member is enough for back there, but I've heard that bolt can corrode or get dirty over time and build resistance.

Kenny actually suggested something similar to this before I installed the wire end on my exhaust bracket. I was considering installing the cable end on the alternator's pivoting bolt - the one that connects the top of the alternator to the rest of the engine block (for me, it is a 17 mm). I didn't really want to go through the trouble of doing a job with a socket and a wrench - one in each hand and cranking down on the grounding wire there - so I opted for the exhaust bracket.

Although, if you did install a ground there at the laternator pivoting bracket, you'd never "wonder" if your alternator had a good ground ever again.

[chris williams]

Another thumbs up for this product, just installed it (TAB's trailing arms Etc Out) so not to bad a job. Before I had to rev the car a bit to get the voltmeter to read above 11v now reads 13+ volt from initial start up rather than having to 'blip' the throttle. So must be an improvement somewhere!
Chris

[novadmc]

just finished installing this myself.
35846

I routed the cables in such a way that they wouldn't sit below the transmission. In doing so, the way they went, i had to trim a few inches off the splash guard when reinstalling it to make room for the cables. A piece of silicone hose covers them where they lay against the coolant pipe (no pressure on the pipe, just touching it) to prevent rubbing/wear of the pipe or the wires.

[Chris 16409]

That looks similar to the way I routed mine. I'd like to get a new positive battery cable as well.

[Timebender]

Reviving this thread- as I have the same cables from Hervey and this helps a lot. I thought the short one went from the bulkhead connector (where my engine is grounded to along with another ground going down from there and somewhere).
So now I know kind of what to do. Instead of wrestling with the cable at the TAB, can I run that anywhere else, like someone mentioned to the frame section under the coolant bottle, or where else might be good?

[Josh]

Reviving this thread- as I have the same cables from Hervey and this helps a lot. I thought the short one went from the bulkhead connector (where my engine is grounded to along with another ground going down from there and somewhere).
So now I know kind of what to do. Instead of wrestling with the cable at the TAB, can I run that anywhere else, like someone mentioned to the frame section under the coolant bottle, or where else might be good?

You can run a ground to anywhere on the frame.

[Timebender]

I figured as much, but wasn't sure if it had to be at the TAB.

[Morpheus]

What gauge are the stock positive/ground cables to the battery? If one were to replace them, would it be a good idea to go up a size?

[Josh]

I feel that 2 guage is plently. You could get away with 4 gauge too.

I ran 0 Gauge in my car, totally overkill. The wires are also a pain to route as they are so thick. The terminals are also huge. not worth it.

[Bitsyncmaster]

What gauge are the stock positive/ground cables to the battery? If one were to replace them, would it be a good idea to go up a size?

The stock battery cables are 2 AWG I think. Our cars used metric wiring which is a little different by naming the strands of wire rather than a standard AWG. I agree 4 AWG would work fine as long as your battery is good and not below freezing. But 2 AWG would be better with less voltage drop.

[n_tensetuning]

Does anyone know where the brass fitting from hervey/specialtauto comes from?
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=12547&d=1345027336


It looks like a Battery Bolt extender like the Autocraft 30300..... but I looked at the local parts stores and they are 3/8-16 thread that fit batteries and NOT the M10-1.50MM hole on the tranny..
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/autocraft-battery-bolt-extender-side-mount-30300/6280471-P?searchTerm=battery+bolt+extender

For those that used Hervey/specialtauto's brass fitting on the tranny, did it not screw in easily?


Thanks
Dave M

[Bitsyncmaster]

Does anyone know where the brass fitting from hervey/specialtauto comes from?
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=12547&d=1345027336


It looks like a Battery Bolt extender like the Autocraft 30300..... but I looked at the local parts stores and they are 3/8-16 thread that fit batteries and NOT the M10-1.50MM hole on the tranny..
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/autocraft-battery-bolt-extender-side-mount-30300/6280471-P?searchTerm=battery+bolt+extender

For those that used Hervey/specialtauto's brass fitting on the tranny, did it not screw in easily?


Thanks
Dave M

I would just use a steel or stainless stud or bolt. Brass can not use much torque on threads. Just clean the aluminum case where the terminals contact.

[n_tensetuning]

Thanks Dave.

I was thinking of just using an M10-1.50mm bolt in place on the tranny.... but was curious about the brass battery bolt extender used on tranny..... I'm pretty sure that anyone that used it ended up cross threading since the typical battery bolt extenders are mostly all 3/8 -16tpi.

they are very close, the 3/8" bolt is about 0.019" smaller and the pitch's are very close so the 3/8 -16 bolt will thread in the 10mm x 1.5 but a 10 x 1.5 bolt will not fit the 3/8