Ripping into the doors - fixing various things

[wfox2506]

Going through my doors thoroughly and running into lots of PO probs.

Firstly, the connecting rod to the driver side exterior lock is mangled. Anyone know where the factory bends are supposed to be? Pics? The pics I found appear straight and that can't be right. I want to get it perfect or else I risk listening to rattles inside the door on the road.

http://store.delorean.com/p-9469-rod-door-lock-lh.aspx
http://store.delorean.com/p-9469-rod-door-lock-lh.aspx

Also has anyone sourced replacements for all the white plastic pivot bushings used throughout the latch mechanism?

[David T]

You can use the one in the other door as a guide to straighten out the bent one but it is the mirror image. It probably got bent up from the DPO trying to adjust it. If you are going in that deep you should remove the latches and clean and relubricate them so they operate easily. The old grease makes them stick and not work smoothly. To replace the plastic parts you can try a large auto store, many have an assortment of plastic parts you might be able to use.

[Jonathan]

Don't know if these pics will help or not. From inside my driver's door a couple seasons ago. I don't recall the rods being bent on mine, intentionally or otherwise. Although I wasn't really in there looking for that specifically.

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DMC Houston also put a video together explaining how the door internals work and it might help you figure your rods out...

http://support.delorean.com/kb/a89/overview-of-the-internals-of-the-delorean-doors.aspx

[wfox2506]

Thanks for the pics. I wound up buying a replacement rod when I realized the PO glued the turnbuckle in place (wondered why it wouldn't turn even though the counter nuts were gone).

So far everything is actually going really well. Just waiting on parts at the moment...

I'm installing Wings A Loft as well--got everything in and working but the door launch actuator is sticking. It pulls the door latch but then doesn't relax to let it return and I have to push it back by hand. Anyone know what causes this? Seems like the actuator is getting sustained voltage for too long instead a pulse. Double checking my wiring today.

[wfox2506]

Fixed the WAL actuator. Screws were slightly too tight, causing some binding.

Moving on to replacing and adjusting the toll window. Nightmare situation. To keep it simple, the glass comes up and hits the front section first, then pushes the glass to the rear as it rises. As it's forced back, the front guide is also forced back bending and contorting it. It is adjusted as far back as it can go and I'm not satisfied with it.

I am considering heating up the window carrier enough to slide the carrier forward some, since I can't adjust the guides any further. Any input?...

[Jonathan]

Fixed the WAL actuator. Screws were slightly too tight, causing some binding.

Moving on to replacing and adjusting the toll window. Nightmare situation. To keep it simple, the glass comes up and hits the front section first, then pushes the glass to the rear as it rises. As it's forced back, the front guide is also forced back bending and contorting it. It is adjusted as far back as it can go and I'm not satisfied with it.

I am considering heating up the window carrier enough to slide the carrier forward some, since I can't adjust the guides any further. Any input?...

Perhaps take some photos and video maybe even of the inside of the door as the window is going up and down to better help us see what it is it is doing. Your description is good, but I am having a hard time visualizing.

[wfox2506]

I bought new window motors and I am test fitting them now. Looks like things are going together much better now. Just one issue.

The elbow bracket that needs to be bolted to the grab handle bracket will not line up. I do not want to bend anything so I want to check first if anyone else has had to make some bends.

[Fox2506]

I bought new window motors and I am test fitting them now. Looks like things are going together much better now. Just one issue.

The elbow bracket that needs to be bolted to the grab handle bracket will not line up. I do not want to bend anything so I want to check first if anyone else has had to make some bends.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171111/6e0508dda37ad74f28e9b711d81c9a41.jpg



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[DMC-81]

I bought new window motors and I am test fitting them now. Looks like things are going together much better now. Just one issue.

The elbow bracket that needs to be bolted to the grab handle bracket will not line up. I do not want to bend anything so I want to check first if anyone else has had to make some bends.

It looks like the welded nut/ tab on the window tube is at an extreme angle. Something is not right. I seem to recall that I had that same problem during installation. Is the motor already fastened in your picture?

I found that I needed to bolt the elbow tab first, then attach the motor with the Z tabs as shown in the below picture, then the window carrier. I needed to slightly bend one end of one of the Z tabs to make the motor fit without causing undue tension on the tube.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=39170&d=1453171442

[wfox2506]

I got a screw into the elbow and let it pull the tab into place. Now the end of the tube is pressing on the drop glass so I think it's putting tension on the mechanism. I think I'll have to pull the whole thing and bend the tab some. Perhaps they have some inconsistencies in where they place that tab.

[Fox2506]

Alright I got it in.

I hoped the new motor would relieve this issue but I took a video to show what the old motor and now the new one both did. They push on the outer skin when the window is closed causing a bulge. I’ll bet most installs are doing this..

https://youtu.be/wiGixppz4MM


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[painterdave72]

I reached in my doors and bent the tube slightly enough to not do that.. .just be sure to wear gloves...lol