opethmike
11-06-2017, 03:01 PM
Between being a horsepower & torque addict, and my PRV starting to show minor signs of rot, I am in the middle of doing an LS4 swap.
I am doing a collaborative effort with Mr. Schattenkirk for my swap. He has provided me with the "hard" parts for this, and is providing technical input as I go along. By 'hard parts', I mean the following:
Motor mounts
Transmission mounts
Flywheel
Transmission to engine adapter plate
Starter adapter
Basically, the custom parts that have to be made in order to put an LS4 into the DeLorean.
So why an LS4, instead of the LS1? A few reasons - 1. It is much cheaper than the LS1 to buy used. 2. The front accessory drive is quite a bit flatter, allowing for easier fitment.
The LS4 is down on power by about 50 horse compared to the LS1, but we're still talking 300+ stock, which is quite gnarly in a light car with shitty handling like the DeLorean. I'm also a damned maniac, and have installed a fairly gnarly camshaft into my LS4 motor.
Our aim with this project is to try to do the swap as simply as possible, to show that you don't have to be a genius to pull it off. Let me be 100% perfectly clear - "as simply as possible" does not mean simple, and certainly not what anyone would call cheap! Simply as possible refers to without the need for welding, minimal wiring modifications, minimal frame modifications, etc.
As far as expenses go, once I have completed the swap, I expect to be somewhere around the $9,000 territory.
I am going to use this thread as a sort of documentation of the process, so that in the future if someone else wishes to do the swap, they will hopefully find as many answers to their questions as possible right here. I am going to show quite a few pictures, talk about each step as I do it, and, probably to my own regret, will track the expenses here as well.
I will not be providing any detail on the removal of the PRV motor. For one thing, my setup was EFI with cams/exhaust, so my process was slightly different from stock. Also, removing the PRV is documented in the workshop manual, and frankly, is simple enough that you should be able to figure it out without a manual. If you can't, you probably shouldn't try this swap :)
So, here's a breakdown of the entirety of the project:
Remove PRV - done
Prep work on car
Repair fuse #1 wire, run add-a-fuse to a power distribution stud
Remove Megasquirt & associated wiring
Test fit motor mounts and drill holes for motor mount supports
Cut shifter linkage frame hole
Send shifter rod to Josh for re-work
Find and fix all cracked epoxy and rust issues on frame
Transmission
Disassemble for input shaft coupler & inspection
Re-assemble with new gaskets, etc
Grind bellhousing for pressure plate clearance
Fuel system
Use existing pump and get dual stage bypass fuel pressure regulator. Make proper AN hose.
LS rebuild
Grind block for starter clearance
Strip down exterior completely
Install DoD delete kit & cam kit
Install new oil pan
Clean-up and reassemble exterior, with carb manifold & carb
Transmission & engine
Install clutch assembly
Install adapter plate
Mate transmission & engine
Install starter
Install re-worked shifter linkage rod
Mount assembly into car; line up transmission mounts first, then motor mounts
Fill engine oil
Install shift linkage and adjust
Hook up reverse light switch
Rebuild axles
Install axles
Fill transmission oil
Hook up clutch slave cylinder and bleed
Fuel system
Hook up fuel filter & carb, test that fuel gets to carb
Cooling system
Re-arrange hard pipes to passenger side
Install coolant temperature sensors (one for DMC gauge, one for MSD box)
Hook up water pump feed and return hoses
Hook up heater core feed and return hoses
Vacuum and fill system
Front accessory drive
Install modified steering pump
Install alternator
Install A/C compressor
Install tensioner
Install drive belt
Exhaust
Install exhaust manifolds
Install oxygen sensors
Electrical
Alternator
Ignition box, including all sensor connections
Carb choke
Starter
Otterstat
Ignition box to tach signal converter to tach wire
Oil pressure gauge
Oil level warning light sender
A/C compressor
Coolant temperature sender
Oxygen sensors
Coil packs & wires
Engine ground
Exhaust
Install mufflers
Pipe manifolds to mufflers
Startup test
Hook up battery
Unhook ignition coils
Crank car several times to build up oil pressure
Hook ignition coils back up
Start engine
Run engine up to temperature
Make adjustments to carb's idle circuit as necessary
Air conditioning
Make and run custom hoses
Vacuum system
Fill system
Re-assemble engine cover, fascia, louvers
Here's the sticker shock section. I am not including what I paid for the hard parts, because that's a private transaction, and will likely vary in the future based on changes that may need to be made. I also do not wish to speak for Josh.
Josh Schattenkirk LS swap hard parts
flywheel
adapter plate
motor mounts
transmission mounts
slave cylinder spacers
throwout bearing
various high-grade nuts and bolts
DPNW input shaft coupler $200?
Custom brackets/hoses for Miata brakes $375
Wilwood calipers from Flying Miata $550
Banjo bolts + ends for brakes $37
Two Ford Esort rear hubs $85
Two Miata front rotors $45
SBC motor mounts $90
Plug wires $80
Oil pan, pickup, windage try $275
Carb conversion kit $1,100
DoD delete kit $415
Big cam kit $777
Motor, freight shipped $1,300
Cam & crank sensor, head bolt thread chaser, oil pump o-ring, harmonic balancer $220
Trunion bearing set $160
Head refurbishing $460
Exhaust manifolds $300
Fuel delivery parts $450
dual stage pressure regulator, fittings, hose
Throttle linkage kit $35
There is definitely room for cost reduction in the above list, such as the refurbishing of the heads, the DoD delete, and the big cam kit. But I want to do this swap as complete as possible upfront, to my personal tastes.
One thing that may interest folks is that I am using a carb and MSD box for this swap. Why would I use comparatively archaic engine management compared to the GM EFI & ECU setup? A few reasons - 1. The EFI setup creates some challenging packaging issues for the swap. The carb manifold eliminates those challenges. 2. A carb and MSD ignition controller GREATLY simplify the amount of wiring that needs to be done for the install. 3. Learning experience; I've never done much with carbs before.
So, let's get rolling with some posts & pictures.
I am doing a collaborative effort with Mr. Schattenkirk for my swap. He has provided me with the "hard" parts for this, and is providing technical input as I go along. By 'hard parts', I mean the following:
Motor mounts
Transmission mounts
Flywheel
Transmission to engine adapter plate
Starter adapter
Basically, the custom parts that have to be made in order to put an LS4 into the DeLorean.
So why an LS4, instead of the LS1? A few reasons - 1. It is much cheaper than the LS1 to buy used. 2. The front accessory drive is quite a bit flatter, allowing for easier fitment.
The LS4 is down on power by about 50 horse compared to the LS1, but we're still talking 300+ stock, which is quite gnarly in a light car with shitty handling like the DeLorean. I'm also a damned maniac, and have installed a fairly gnarly camshaft into my LS4 motor.
Our aim with this project is to try to do the swap as simply as possible, to show that you don't have to be a genius to pull it off. Let me be 100% perfectly clear - "as simply as possible" does not mean simple, and certainly not what anyone would call cheap! Simply as possible refers to without the need for welding, minimal wiring modifications, minimal frame modifications, etc.
As far as expenses go, once I have completed the swap, I expect to be somewhere around the $9,000 territory.
I am going to use this thread as a sort of documentation of the process, so that in the future if someone else wishes to do the swap, they will hopefully find as many answers to their questions as possible right here. I am going to show quite a few pictures, talk about each step as I do it, and, probably to my own regret, will track the expenses here as well.
I will not be providing any detail on the removal of the PRV motor. For one thing, my setup was EFI with cams/exhaust, so my process was slightly different from stock. Also, removing the PRV is documented in the workshop manual, and frankly, is simple enough that you should be able to figure it out without a manual. If you can't, you probably shouldn't try this swap :)
So, here's a breakdown of the entirety of the project:
Remove PRV - done
Prep work on car
Repair fuse #1 wire, run add-a-fuse to a power distribution stud
Remove Megasquirt & associated wiring
Test fit motor mounts and drill holes for motor mount supports
Cut shifter linkage frame hole
Send shifter rod to Josh for re-work
Find and fix all cracked epoxy and rust issues on frame
Transmission
Disassemble for input shaft coupler & inspection
Re-assemble with new gaskets, etc
Grind bellhousing for pressure plate clearance
Fuel system
Use existing pump and get dual stage bypass fuel pressure regulator. Make proper AN hose.
LS rebuild
Grind block for starter clearance
Strip down exterior completely
Install DoD delete kit & cam kit
Install new oil pan
Clean-up and reassemble exterior, with carb manifold & carb
Transmission & engine
Install clutch assembly
Install adapter plate
Mate transmission & engine
Install starter
Install re-worked shifter linkage rod
Mount assembly into car; line up transmission mounts first, then motor mounts
Fill engine oil
Install shift linkage and adjust
Hook up reverse light switch
Rebuild axles
Install axles
Fill transmission oil
Hook up clutch slave cylinder and bleed
Fuel system
Hook up fuel filter & carb, test that fuel gets to carb
Cooling system
Re-arrange hard pipes to passenger side
Install coolant temperature sensors (one for DMC gauge, one for MSD box)
Hook up water pump feed and return hoses
Hook up heater core feed and return hoses
Vacuum and fill system
Front accessory drive
Install modified steering pump
Install alternator
Install A/C compressor
Install tensioner
Install drive belt
Exhaust
Install exhaust manifolds
Install oxygen sensors
Electrical
Alternator
Ignition box, including all sensor connections
Carb choke
Starter
Otterstat
Ignition box to tach signal converter to tach wire
Oil pressure gauge
Oil level warning light sender
A/C compressor
Coolant temperature sender
Oxygen sensors
Coil packs & wires
Engine ground
Exhaust
Install mufflers
Pipe manifolds to mufflers
Startup test
Hook up battery
Unhook ignition coils
Crank car several times to build up oil pressure
Hook ignition coils back up
Start engine
Run engine up to temperature
Make adjustments to carb's idle circuit as necessary
Air conditioning
Make and run custom hoses
Vacuum system
Fill system
Re-assemble engine cover, fascia, louvers
Here's the sticker shock section. I am not including what I paid for the hard parts, because that's a private transaction, and will likely vary in the future based on changes that may need to be made. I also do not wish to speak for Josh.
Josh Schattenkirk LS swap hard parts
flywheel
adapter plate
motor mounts
transmission mounts
slave cylinder spacers
throwout bearing
various high-grade nuts and bolts
DPNW input shaft coupler $200?
Custom brackets/hoses for Miata brakes $375
Wilwood calipers from Flying Miata $550
Banjo bolts + ends for brakes $37
Two Ford Esort rear hubs $85
Two Miata front rotors $45
SBC motor mounts $90
Plug wires $80
Oil pan, pickup, windage try $275
Carb conversion kit $1,100
DoD delete kit $415
Big cam kit $777
Motor, freight shipped $1,300
Cam & crank sensor, head bolt thread chaser, oil pump o-ring, harmonic balancer $220
Trunion bearing set $160
Head refurbishing $460
Exhaust manifolds $300
Fuel delivery parts $450
dual stage pressure regulator, fittings, hose
Throttle linkage kit $35
There is definitely room for cost reduction in the above list, such as the refurbishing of the heads, the DoD delete, and the big cam kit. But I want to do this swap as complete as possible upfront, to my personal tastes.
One thing that may interest folks is that I am using a carb and MSD box for this swap. Why would I use comparatively archaic engine management compared to the GM EFI & ECU setup? A few reasons - 1. The EFI setup creates some challenging packaging issues for the swap. The carb manifold eliminates those challenges. 2. A carb and MSD ignition controller GREATLY simplify the amount of wiring that needs to be done for the install. 3. Learning experience; I've never done much with carbs before.
So, let's get rolling with some posts & pictures.