Best battery cut off switch?

[Redsquall]

I've currently got the big red plastic key switch. It pokes the passenger seat preventing it from going back all the way. What's the slickest setup do that the seat goes back and I can still reach over and turn it off?

[Chris 16409]

Here's what I did. I made an aluminum bracket that I attahced the swtich to. Then I bonded the assembly to the floor of the battery compartment. The brand of switch I went with is Pollack. See below.

54742

54743

Here's an example:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/291751788564

[DMC-81]

Here is the one I got:

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=53832&d=1507251985

$7 or less on eBay. Here's an example:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/311845505780

I put it on the recommended negative post to hide it but others have installed it on the positive side for easy access.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=53833&d=1507252055

[Redsquall]

Thanks guys!

[David T]

Spend a little bit more and get the one like Chris got but get it with a removable plastic key. Gives you more security, you can remove the plastic key and no one can make the car work even if they find the battery master switch. For the bracket, make it bigger and stick it under the battery to hold it in place, that way you don't have to bond it to the car permanently. If you don't want to lose the radio presets every time you shut the switch off, wire the power from the fuse in the fuseblock to the hot side of the master switch. Add an in-line fuse to the radio. I have seen where some owners drill a hole and let the plastic key protrude through the cover and the carpet so it is easier to turn the switch on and off and remove the key.

[Delorean Industries]

I was taking with rob the other day. He has a bunch of brackets to mount a rotary style switch available still. Worth looking into for sure.

[Trstno1]

I ended up going a bit of a different route with my battery cut off switch. Since I don't smoke and didn't want to constantly be in my battery compartment I replaced the cigg lighter with a latching power switch that controls a heavy current latching relay/isolator that connects the battery to the car. Now all I have to do to connect my battery is press a switch. Very easy and looks good. Also a very easy way to not drain my battery while at car shows with the doors open.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I ended up going a bit of a different route with my battery cut off switch. Since I don't smoke and didn't want to constantly be in my battery compartment I replaced the cigg lighter with a latching power switch that controls a heavy current latching relay/isolator that connects the battery to the car. Now all I have to do to connect my battery is press a switch. Very easy and looks good. Also a very easy way to not drain my battery while at car shows with the doors open.

I did the same.

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?10918-Latching-Battery-Relay

[DMC-Ron]

I ended up going a bit of a different route with my battery cut off switch. Since I don't smoke and didn't want to constantly be in my battery compartment I replaced the cigg lighter with a latching power switch that controls a heavy current latching relay/isolator that connects the battery to the car. Now all I have to do to connect my battery is press a switch. Very easy and looks good. Also a very easy way to not drain my battery while at car shows with the doors open.

Looks like a nice setup. Do you have links or info on the battery cut-off switch and the latching power switch.

Thanks, Ron

[DMC-Ron]

I did the same.

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?10918-Latching-Battery-Relay

Dave,
I was looking at your thread. Do you have a model number or link for the latching battery switch you used and is the latching mechanism impervious to road vibration?

Thanks, Ron

[Bitsyncmaster]

Dave,
I was looking at your thread. Do you have a model number or link for the latching battery switch you used and is the latching mechanism impervious to road vibration?

Thanks, Ron

I'm pretty sure this is the relay I have. I think you can find it cheaper.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Intellitec-RV-Motorhome-01-00055-000-Battery-Disconnect-Relay-Solenoid/192356635472?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.M BE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908110712%26meid%3D888f58 9e7c614c3483b7d9a77c6d318f%26pid%3D100677%26rk%3D3 %26rkt%3D30%26sd%3D162624722716&_trksid=p2385738.c100677.m4598

You apply coil power one way and it latches on, then apply coil power the other way (swap the 12 volts and ground) and it latches off. So you could control it with a DPDT momentary switch (center off). I made an electronic controller so I could use a simple SPST push button and kill the engine first.

I've never had a problem with vibration. It's a "solenoid" type so no springs like in a relay that hold the contracts.

[Citizen]

I ended up going a bit of a different route with my battery cut off switch. Since I don't smoke and didn't want to constantly be in my battery compartment I replaced the cigg lighter with a latching power switch that controls a heavy current latching relay/isolator that connects the battery to the car. Now all I have to do to connect my battery is press a switch. Very easy and looks good. Also a very easy way to not drain my battery while at car shows with the doors open.

I like this, A LOT.

But, since I'm using my cigarette lighter port for a dual USB outlet, I wonder if a second, matching hole could have been drilled out to accommodate the new battery cut off switch that you did?

Right now, I'm using the inexpensive, green knob style battery cut off in the battery compartment, to cut off power for overnight garage stays. I also have one of the dummy console switches rigged up to interrupt the door-lights circuit, so that I can easily turn off power for a shorter term, like at car shows. Works great!

Thomas

...

[Trstno1]

Looks like a nice setup. Do you have links or info on the battery cut-off switch and the latching power switch.

Thanks, Ron


The switch was:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L4EAMYY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The high current battery isolator solenoid was:

https://www.amazon.com/Current-Solenoid-Contactor-Batteries-Isolator/dp/B076HD7MZ5

[DMC-81]

^ I think Trstno1 wins for best battery cutoff switch. That is really elegant and easy to use! :hihi:

[DMC-Ron]

I'm pretty sure this is the relay I have. I think you can find it cheaper.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Intellitec-RV-Motorhome-01-00055-000-Battery-Disconnect-Relay-Solenoid/192356635472?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.M BE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908110712%26meid%3D888f58 9e7c614c3483b7d9a77c6d318f%26pid%3D100677%26rk%3D3 %26rkt%3D30%26sd%3D162624722716&_trksid=p2385738.c100677.m4598

You apply coil power one way and it latches on, then apply coil power the other way (swap the 12 volts and ground) and it latches off. So you could control it with a DPDT momentary switch (center off). I made an electronic controller so I could use a simple SPST push button and kill the engine first.

I've never had a problem with vibration. It's a "solenoid" type so no springs like in a relay that hold the contracts.

Dave,
I like the fact that it is latching. This removes the concern with a power-to-maintain relay where inadvertent interruption of the coil circuit could drop out the battery with the alternator still in operation. There's probably enough inherent capacitance in the car's wiring system so it's not an issue, but you would be depending (hanging) on the voltage regulation of the alternator and the quality of the DC output to avoid damage to electronic components. Then again, maybe we don't have much that's sensitive in a DeLorean.

Ron

[Shep]

Spend a little bit more and get the one like Chris got but get it with a removable plastic key. Gives you more security, you can remove the plastic key and no one can make the car work even if they find the battery master switch. For the bracket, make it bigger and stick it under the battery to hold it in place, that way you don't have to bond it to the car permanently. If you don't want to lose the radio presets every time you shut the switch off, wire the power from the fuse in the fuseblock to the hot side of the master switch. Add an in-line fuse to the radio. I have seen where some owners drill a hole and let the plastic key protrude through the cover and the carpet so it is easier to turn the switch on and off and remove the key.Not to backtrack too much, but I always found this kind of logic as a sort of "cat and mouse" game with endless security measures before your car is basically one big Fort Knox-approved locking mechanism. Lock your doors, get a tilt-based audible alarm, mount the tilt sensors to the doors themselves. Done deal. Basically, avoid thinking how to stop every last angle and just get into the mindset of a thief.

If a thief wanted to steal your car quickly, they'd give up as soon as the alarm goes off and would run off (and do -- my neighborhood has seen a rash of car break-ins and you can hear them running for the hills when they blare). But if they were determined, they'd just secure the louvers and tow it away by the back wheels. Then probably replace the louvers later after losing them on the nearest highway on-ramp. Or, even quicker, give the car a jump and drive off before you realized they just drove off without a functional battery. Remember, you technically can drive without a functional battery at all, but seriously don't ever do that, damage can be extensive and usually wreaks havoc on anything electrical ever.

The point of a battery cutoff switch is to completely disconnect the battery, usually for safety or storage reasons. But while allowing the parasitic drain to remain while cutting off everything else makes it a security measure, several aftermarket alarm offerings already include battery cutoff options -- including Wings-A-Loft -- and this becomes redundant. The removable key guys are for those mounted externally, usually for NHRA dragged vehicles like hotrods and such where physical security is not all that great to begin with (roadsters don't have roofs and I've seen many of these that drag). The physical construction of these hotrods are simple in nature and would be VERY easy to steal and make serious cash on quickly given their lack of VIN's also. The ones that can't be removed are usually meant for the cars that simply aren't street legal anymore and are trailered to events, so there's no need to go all out and secure that guy, or for guys that don't really have a need for the extra security measure.

(Last bit explained to me by the more knowledgeable guys at Summit Racing when I used to work there by the way, they really know their stuff).

EDIT:
Also, gotta ask: why light up the battery cutoff switch? Glare on the dashboard alone would drive me nuts, especially at night. Heck if I'm not sure if I got power at a car show, I look at my doors. Lights on? Got power. No lights? Power's off. If it was an RGB kind of guy that could hold for like 5 seconds red or green based on "off" or "on" respectively, that would make sense, but I don't know. You guys are mounting your switches in areas where one errant press can disconnect it. I'd be much more at ease with it mounted where most OBD-II ports are mounted nowadays, out of sight but well within reach!

[David T]

I like the simple, mechanical switch with the removable key. I use it not so much for security as much as shutting the whole car off when I am at a show or when I park the car in the garage to eliminate parasitic drain. The removable key gives me the option to use it as a security device if I need it but any determined thief will just bypass it easily. That is once he can find it! As for the determined thief, they aren't going to mess around and will just tow the car away as quickly as possible as you said. That's why we have insurance. I suppose you could also get LoJack if you are that paranoid about losing the car. An alarm isn't going to stop a determined car thief but the LoJack will help you recover it. As for a remote, latching master relay, that is just complicated and unnecessary. And the consequences of actuating it when the car is running must be considered especially if you can do it inadvertently. I guess you can add a circuit so you can't actuate it if the motor is running but that just adds to the complexity! And we all know what happens when you increase complexity, you increase the possibilities of failure.

[Shep]

Security as a bonus is never a bad thing! KISS is great, agree 100% with you there. Latching relays might be useful for the less physically capable (I have multiple owners in mind there where bending is a serious problem), but without that, get a proper one.

That said, I'd be afraid I'd lose the key myself! :(

[Bitsyncmaster]

Security as a bonus is never a bad thing! KISS is great, agree 100% with you there. Latching relays might be useful for the less physically capable (I have multiple owners in mind there where bending is a serious problem), but without that, get a proper one.

That said, I'd be afraid I'd lose the key myself! :(

Wait till you see mine in operation. My push button switch sits in the indent that was used for the dash rheostat. Even then you have to hold it down for one second to shut down the engine and power. Mine even shuts the engine down before shutting down the battery.

[Shep]

Wait till you see mine in operation. My push button switch sits in the indent that was used for the dash rheostat. Even then you have to hold it down for one second to shut down the engine and power. Mine even shuts the engine down before shutting down the battery. While you're driving?! Cargo in front of the shifter is my big concern, my Mom's purse once set off my Awooga horn (did it for kicks, nobody got the reference and it's been removed as a result) for a solid 10 seconds while sat it on button mounted exactly there. Frantic for sure, but killing the engine would be even worse in my book as you lose the power brakes.

Discreet switching for something that important is key, it's the passengers that I don't trust on that.

[Bitsyncmaster]

You have a few power brake operations after the engine dies.

[Shep]

You have a few power brake operations after the engine dies.I'm not against the function at all, it's actually very clever and I didn't know latching relays existed before this thread, but it's reminiscent of the Death Star's self-destruct weakness to me. Driver's footwell (think: OBD-II ports, or even hood release) would be far safer. If it's accidentally pressed there while driving, you probably deserve it for putting it so close to your legs. While not driving, it's still convenient enough to access readily.

[Max]

After seeing this thread last night I really like the power switch idea but would it be possible to hide it beneath one of the dummy switches and that way there's no chance of accidentally knocking it?

[Bitsyncmaster]

After seeing this thread last night I really like the power switch idea but would it be possible to hide it beneath one of the dummy switches and that way there's no chance of accidentally knocking it?

You could put it anywhere. You could use two switches that have to be pressed at the same time if you want "bullet proof".

[Bitsyncmaster]

I'm not against the function at all, it's actually very clever and I didn't know latching relays existed before this thread, but it's reminiscent of the Death Star's self-destruct weakness to me. Driver's footwell (think: OBD-II ports, or even hood release) would be far safer. If it's accidentally pressed there while driving, you probably deserve it for putting it so close to your legs. While not driving, it's still convenient enough to access readily.

Mine is connected to the inertia switch which is why I made it kill the engine first. And since the inertia switch kills the battery, there is no need to have it kill the fuel pump ground. So almost no current is in the inertia switch and my fuel pump is hard wired to ground.

[Shep]

Max, dummy switch can be a good cover over the button itself. Wondering if someone more savvy can rig up a hinge so it flips up to expose a button beneath it (haven't figured out how to 3D print hinges for high heat yet). Would protect against peering eyes and accidental use.


Mine is connected to the inertia switch which is why I made it kill the engine first. And since the inertia switch kills the battery, there is no need to have it kill the fuel pump ground. So almost no current is in the inertia switch and my fuel pump is hard wired to ground.Okay lost me on that one, inertia switch, what? I don't know what that does beyond cause headaches and car lockouts at times if memory serves, how's the circuit laid out with the relay?

Maybe my angle is that having it able to kill the battery with the key in even ACC seems a bit counterintuitive if it's so readily accessed.

[Max]

Max, dummy switch can be a good cover over the button itself. Wondering if someone more savvy can rig up a hinge so it flips up to expose a button beneath it (haven't figured out how to 3D print hinges for high heat yet). Would protect against peering eyes and accidental use.

Exactly what I had in mind :) I'll let you know if I come up with a clever way of doing it.

I saw this similar cut off switch on youtube - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xkOUh9x8-xI

He's using this solenoid - https://www.amazon.com/Cole-Hersee-24200-Latching-Solenoid/dp/B001FQMZQU

I'm thinking about getting the same one, would love to know what you guys think. Does it actually need to be specifically a "latching" solenoid? Is the function the same as yours Dave? (Sorry - I'm totally new to all this)

[Bitsyncmaster]

Okay lost me on that one, inertia switch, what? I don't know what that does beyond cause headaches and car lockouts at times if memory serves, how's the circuit laid out with the relay?

Maybe my angle is that having it able to kill the battery with the key in even ACC seems a bit counterintuitive if it's so readily accessed.

I made a circuit board with a micro which monitors the inertia switch and the user push button and then drives the latching relay either on or off and also shuts on or off one AUX relay.

[David T]

If you are looking for a sneaky way to start the motor, on a car I used to own, (not a Delorean) I added a momentary contact, push button switch hidden near the E-Brake so you couldn't see it. You had to push it as you turned the key to run the starter motor. If you didn't push it as your turned the key, the starter motor wouldn't work. It just interrupted the starter circuit. A thief would just think there was something wrong with the car never thinking there was a hidden switch. Thieves don't want to spend any more time trying to steal a car then necessary, more time to be caught in the act. Anything you can do to slow them down increases the chances they will leave the car. Or you can hide a magnetic switch and you have to place a magnet in a certain place to activate it. That is even more sneaky since there is nothing to see.

[Shep]

Starter motor cutoff is probably how I'd angle the "battery cutoff" of anti-theft systems now that you mention it. Speaking of which, I need to figure out where I put that aftermarket smart key system... Perfect tie-in! No smart key, no starter motor. I like that, thanks! :)


I made a circuit board with a micro which monitors the inertia switch and the user push button and then drives the latching relay either on or off and also shuts on or off one AUX relay.Oooohhh, so the inertia switch kills the engine and the Micro connects the dots, okay. That's actually... wow that's kinda genius.

[Shep]

Max, latching solenoid means no parasitic current draw with the engine off. Once it flips, current is done. Latching is a key word there, otherwise it requires current to stay on, or even to stay off. Neither one is good as it kills the battery faster. Latching avoids the current draw after the button is pressed.

By the way, I do have a switch that might be of interest. It looks like a toggle switch, but is centered normally, and momentarily holds each direction. That would allow you to send current "on" or "off" rather easily without wondering which state it's in. One of the daves can give the name, momentary toggle maybe? Can't remember, mine's board mount though.

Battery cutoff switch, stay near the battery itself. Relays, buttons go anywhere that's reasonable!

[Bitsyncmaster]

Yes a latching "relay" stays in the on or off position without any power applied to the control coil.

My "relay" you reverse the 12 volts and ground to the coil to get it to latch the other way. You could control that coil connection with a double pole switch with a center off position. You wire the switch (6 terminals) so one position powers one way and the other reverses the voltage. Then return to center off so no power is applied to the coil. So you would want a spring loaded DPDT switch with center off. I think my relay coil draws 3 amps when powered.

[David T]

Max, latching solenoid means no parasitic current draw with the engine off. Once it flips, current is done. Latching is a key word there, otherwise it requires current to stay on, or even to stay off. Neither one is good as it kills the battery faster. Latching avoids the current draw after the button is pressed.

By the way, I do have a switch that might be of interest. It looks like a toggle switch, but is centered normally, and momentarily holds each direction. That would allow you to send current "on" or "off" rather easily without wondering which state it's in. One of the daves can give the name, momentary toggle maybe? Can't remember, mine's board mount though.

Battery cutoff switch, stay near the battery itself. Relays, buttons go anywhere that's reasonable!

That would be called a 3 position, momentary contact, center off toggle (and the # of poles, usually between 1 and 3). Other factors would include current and voltage ratings.

[Ron]

(I have multiple owners in mind there where bending is a serious problem)

54847
I used one of these on our rescue truck. It's by "Battery Doctor".
The cheapest I see right now is $78.44 @ Amazon Prime (Half the price and 5 times the warranty ;-)
Note it comes with 2 fobs :deviltail:

===================

$.02
If parasitic drain is the only problem (and you give up ;-) I'd suggest a solar powered minder instead...
(Harbor Freight, any marina, ...)

[Shep]

The Daves (can we start a band named that please?) are right on the money, DPDT was the one term I was after (I have a DPST, but sounds like you need the DT, that's short for "Dual Pole, Single Throw" in my case, i.e. two available positions, one circuit connected with each position, the DT expands that to two separate circuits), the other was "momentary", that means when you let go, it returns back to center.


54847
I used one of these on our rescue truck. It's by "Battery Doctor".
The cheapest I see right now is $78.44 @ Amazon Prime (Half the price and 5 times the warranty ;-)
Note it comes with 2 fobs :deviltail:

===================

$.02
If parasitic drain is the only problem (and you give up ;-) I'd suggest a solar powered minder instead...
(Harbor Freight, any marina, ...)
OOOHH!!! OOOHH!!! Relevant XKCD!!! What a time to be alive

https://imgs.xkcd.com/comics/solar_panels.png
https://xkcd.com/1924/

Just posted a week ago :D

Solar power is far better utilized to power a fan to vent the oven known as the "interior". Like the Prius did after Aptera went under and they could claim it as "innovative" because Aptera wasn't going to be around long enough to enforce its patent on the issue.

All seriousness, if THAT'S the approach I take, I'll be the guy with four key fobs and two cars and no reason to hold onto any of them. It's no wonder my actual keys go on a completely different keyring anymore. All while my scoliosis steadily gets worse and I have trouble bending myself. (Scoliosis and Parkinson's are what the members I was referring to have, some I only know by rough location and have never met nor spoken to. 4 degrees of Kevin Bacon kind of thing.)

Every winter, I am my own kill switch. I just unbolt my goddamn battery myself and put the exposed terminal in rubber. There. Done. Come summer, when I go to drive for the first time, if I miss it, I'll take the daily for a day and remember to go through the pre-spring checklist. (Which I don't have, so really I just bolt it on and go faster because I'm late after trying to figure out why it wouldn't start.)

[DMC-Ron]

So taking inspiration from this thread and particularly Dave's suggestion of the latching battery disconnect coil, I just finished adding an electric battery disconnect. Previously, I had a manual disconnect that required me to reach into the battery compartment to disconnect or connect the battery. Since I always disconnect the battery after I finish driving, the manual disconnect was inconvenient. I'm excited that I can now connect and disconnect right from the drivers seat.

I did take just a slightly different slant by installing the disconnect as an accessory to the battery. Pictures are better than words so here is my early work fitting the disconnect relay to the battery:
55602

Here's the finished battery with the control wiring:
55603

I found this ON(momentary)-OFF-ON(momentary) reversing toggle, perfect for the latching relay (note the cheap connectors shown here were just for testing):
55604

Made a bracket for the switch out of spare aluminum angle:
55605

Here's the finished switch. The angle mounts to the hood release bracket:
55606

Finally, here's the battery with relay tucked into the battery compartment:
55607

Generally happy with the way it turned out. Looking forward to jumping in the car and connecting the battery from the driver's seat. We're slated to have several days of nice driving weather.

Ron

[Bitsyncmaster]

So taking inspiration from this thread and particularly Dave's suggestion of the latching battery disconnect coil, I just finished adding an electric battery disconnect. Previously, I had a manual disconnect that required me to reach into the battery compartment to disconnect or connect the battery. Since I always disconnect the battery after I finish driving, the manual disconnect was inconvenient. I'm excited that I can now connect and disconnect right from the drivers seat.

I did take just a slightly different slant by installing the disconnect as an accessory to the battery. Pictures are better than words so here is my early work fitting the disconnect relay to the battery:
55602

Here's the finished battery with the control wiring:
55603

I found this ON(momentary)-OFF-ON(momentary) reversing toggle, perfect for the latching relay (note the cheap connectors shown here were just for testing):
55604

Made a bracket for the switch out of spare aluminum angle:
55605

Here's the finished switch. The angle mounts to the hood release bracket:
55606

Finally, here's the battery with relay tucked into the battery compartment:
55607

Generally happy with the way it turned out. Looking forward to jumping in the car and connecting the battery from the driver's seat. We're slated to have several days of nice driving weather.

Ron

Nice work and good ideas.

[David T]

You should consider a switch cover or some kind of interlock so you can't accidentally shut the battery off when the motor is running. That would not be good for the alternator if the battery got disconnected while it is charging.

[DMC-Ron]

You should consider a switch cover or some kind of interlock so you can't accidentally shut the battery off when the motor is running. That would not be good for the alternator if the battery got disconnected while it is charging.

Good point David. I should have included a photo showing a closeup of the toggle switch safety cover:
55612

The photo above shows the spring loaded safety switch with the safety cover lifted allowing access to the toggle. While driving it covers the toggle so any inadvertent bump will not activate the switch.

Ron

[Shep]

Help me understand the wiring there: when the cap is closed, is the battery engaged or disengaged? Would be better if cap closed = battery engaged and operational in my mind, if you bump the switch, the cap itself ensures it will remain functional. It is, after all, a quick-disengage cap on that switch. You can move the switch by closing the cap. Visual indicator for industrial use is where the red ones see wide use as a kill switch for machinery.

[DMC-Ron]

Help me understand the wiring there: when the cap is closed, is the battery engaged or disengaged? Would be better if cap closed = battery engaged and operational in my mind, if you bump the switch, the cap itself ensures it will remain functional. It is, after all, a quick-disengage cap on that switch. You can move the switch by closing the cap. Visual indicator for industrial use is where the red ones see wide use as a kill switch for machinery.

Shep, very astute observation. I modified the safety cover (cap). Normally these caps hold a toggle switch in a specific position when closed. I routed out some material in the safety cover so that the toggle switch would remain in its neutral center position with the safety cover closed.

I hope I answered what you were asking. If not, here is a more detailed general description but I think you already know all this:


So the relay is a latching relay. In this version the coil terminals are [I] and [S]. If you momentarily put +12 at [I] and neg at [S] the relay will connect the battery. When the voltage is removed from the coil terminals, the relay remains in its last state (connected to the battery) because it is latching. No power is required to keep the battery connected. When you momentarily put neg at [I] and +12 at [S] (reverse the polarity) the relay will disconnect the battery. Again, the relay latches so no power is required to keep the battery disconnected.

The toggle switch I selected is an [ON(momentary) - OFF - ON(momentary)] switch, meaning that the toggle is spring loaded to return to the center position and you flip it up or down to provide a momentary electrical connection. The safety cover flips down over the toggle and prevents it from being "toggled" either direction. When you want to connect or disconnect, you lift up the safety shield (it's spring loaded and will stay up when lifted). You then have access to the switch to connect or disconnect the relay. When you're done you flip the safety shield back over the toggle to prevent any accidental activation.

Hope this helps.

Alan Shepard needed this for the explosive bolts.

Ron

[Shep]

Shep, very astute observation. I modified the safety cover (cap). Normally these caps hold a toggle switch in a specific position when closed. I routed out some material in the safety cover so that the toggle switch would remain in its neutral center position with the safety cover closed.Do you have a picture of the switch when the cap is closed? I absolutely love this idea, and though I don't have a use for it yet, I'll see if I can modify a switch that same way so I can pull it out of a parts box when I come up with a use for it later. This is absolutely brilliant.

(Also blame me for reading too fast and glossing over the part where the switch itself had to be swapped out underneath the cap, which was obvious if not outright stated previously and I missed it)


Alan Shepard needed this for the explosive bolts.What does my gramps have to do with this? ;)

(Seriously though, that is his name, if only slightly misspelled -- no relation)

[David T]

Switch covers like the one used are used commonly by the military to prevent inadvertent activations. You would not want to accidentally fire explosive bolts at the wrong time. The theory is it takes two purposeful acts done in the proper sequence to activate the switch. Reduces the chance of bumping the wrong switch and, makes that particular switch more important. In some cases opening the switch cover can set off an alarm.

[DMC-Ron]

Do you have a picture of the switch when the cap is closed? I absolutely love this idea, and though I don't have a use for it yet, I'll see if I can modify a switch that same way so I can pull it out of a parts box when I come up with a use for it later. This is absolutely brilliant.

(Also blame me for reading too fast and glossing over the part where the switch itself had to be swapped out underneath the cap, which was obvious if not outright stated previously and I missed it)

What does my gramps have to do with this? ;)

(Seriously though, that is his name, if only slightly misspelled -- no relation)

Shep,
In my original post 36, photos 3, 4, and 5 show the switch with the safety cover closed. The followup post 39 shows the switch with the safety cover lifted.

Ron

[BABIS]

here's my approach with the battery latching relay:

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/922/zghleM.jpg

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/923/NnCBmD.jpg



the relay is controlled by the keyless entry remote (2 buttons required to unlatching operation, 1 to latch)

[Michael]

66004

[CFI]

66004

Ha! Love it. I have a battery disconnect but I’ve never needed it.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I've seen some solid state battery relays from $150 to $500. I'm concerned about the inductive spikes from the starter causing a failure of these. But I would guess that $500 one has found a way to fix that.

[mark w]

I use one of these. it serves as a switch and protection of the circuit from the battery to the starter.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MMH22A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[kinvilje]

This is what I installed. Great for parking lots if you are worried about your car’s safety. I just reach behind the carpet (behind the passenger seat) and flip the switch.

[Drive Stainless]

Here's my video from 7 years ago, which is not exactly the same as it is today.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xkOUh9x8-xI