Refinishing the Sunshade Louvre

[dn010]

I'm reaching the point where I'll be ready to refinish my upper "sunshade louvre". It has a broken rib that still needs attention (I'll be calling soon, Rob!), and a few other spots that need help. I want something I can do HVLP- I don't want a rattle can, and of course I don't want to have to do this again anytime soon (I need a paint that will last!). Most of what I am reading here is 5 years old - is the consensus still SEM? The factory paint shined up quite nicely, is that the same result with the SEM paint?

Thoughts?

[mluder]

The SEM paint has a bit of a "texture" to it. That said, a couple of washes sort of knocks that down.
About 4 years ago I used SEM rattle can on mine and it's held up quite well.

Cheers
Steven

[Dangermouse]

I think I am right in saying that the louvres came "au naturel" from the factory i.e. Not painted.

[dn010]

Can you elaborate? Is it like a Gel coat kind of thing?


I think I am right in saying that the louvres came "au naturel" from the factory i.e. Not painted.

[Dangermouse]

I think it was just polished fiberglass. But it does seem to fade over the years, like the side louvres on the B posts.

Previous owners use Back to Black or ArmorAll to blacken them up and those tend to leave a gel coat on it and make it harder to paint.

[Drive Stainless]

Gloss black louvers for the win!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DllwuLYs5Tc

[BladeBronson]

I feel the same about gloss black as I do about vertical videos. :)

[DMC-81]

I had mine professionally painted with SEM black, but the shop recommended and did a satin clear coat for durability. I was really happy with the result. Here's a picture of the louver and fascia when I reinstalled them:

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=38680&d=1450582826

[PJ Grady Inc.]

I think I am right in saying that the louvres came "au naturel" from the factory i.e. Not painted.

No they are all painted. The fiberglass underneath is white as you will discover if yours is ever scratched or damaged. If you inspect all of the side edges you're likely to see some white spots where the paint is worn through.
Rob

[Dangermouse]

Aha. So I was wrong. I wonder where I got that idea?

[nkemp]

I heard somewhere that if you are going to spray the louvres spray from a distance to get the right texture. Normally you'd want a wet coating on the surface. To get near the original texture, you don't want the wet look. By spraying farther from the surface, it has time to dry a bit and not flow.

Probably best to practice on something else and on the bottom of the louvre before doing the top. Too far and it won't adhere, too close and it will flood, too close and it will coat to heavily.

As far as removing the whiting/fading/oxidising/etc ... I had moderate luck with Back to Black but I have really good luck with a hydrocarbon based SS spray cleaner applied to the louvres first and followed with B2B. The cleaner removes the white. The B2B enhances and protects it.

YMMV but it is worth experimenting first (just don't use any silicone based products as they mess with paint adhesion)

[Gfrank]

I personally like flat black tractor paint, think it’s the case tractor stuff I use. Comes out more a semi gloss then flat and is rather durable. Paint my tubs the same

[DavidProehl]

Aha. So I was wrong. I wonder where I got that idea?

Not sure, but I must have read it from the same source! I thought for sure they weren't painted and that was why they absorbed Back to Black and other silicon based products.

Now that Rob mentions it though, mine has a small chip on the top edge and sure enough, it is white. I should have put 2 and 2 together on my own on this one.

[dn010]

I knew they had to be painted and that is what sparked me to ask for clarification earlier. Mine has cracks and chips that show white under, same with the under body. The only thing I could think from that comment was possibly a gel coat like a boat has. Nonetheless, thank you for the comments. I'm not looking for full gloss but not flat so I guess maybe a semi gloss. I didn't know these had a texture at all, mine seems completely smooth. I used to use tire shine on this to get it some what shiny, if I could find a paint to do that, it would be great.

[painterdave72]

I just refinished mine after fixing some minor stress cracks.. sem makes a texture coating to use before the trim black. .comes out looking pretty damn close to factory in my opinion.. also matches the mirrors very well.

[Max]

Not sure, but I must have read it from the same source! I thought for sure they weren't painted and that was why they absorbed Back to Black and other silicon based products.


I've definitely read the same somewhere also.

[Dangermouse]

3 against 1 must mean this Grady chap is wrong. What would he know anyway only being it the game for almost 40 years. Jonny come lately. ;)

We all must have read the same thread on here before because Rob is right, the cracks are white.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

3 against 1 must mean this Grady chap is wrong. What would he know anyway only being it the game for almost 40 years. Jonny come lately. ;)

We all must have read the same thread on here before because Rob is right, the cracks are white.

I have to wipe behind my ears every day! That being said I have about 20 lightly damaged sunshades in my back storage room and every one is bleeding white. I've repaired many more and never came across a black resin one. The source is a neophyte.
Rob

[cdrusn]

I spray can painted a rustoleum flat black on my sunshade the same time I did the trunk, engine compartment and door jams then painted them all the same time with a matte finish clear coat from auto zone using a harbor freight hvlp gun. Easy and they all come out the same. Maybe I will also do the rocker panel cover and windshield trim too. :race: