Clutch stuck? Pedal will not depress - Suggestions?

[hillbillysims]

This the car that just came out of 34yrs of dry storage. Brakes and everything seem to be working properly. But the clutch pedal just will not depress.

Now I will say I have NOT tried to force it hard. I know they are heavier than a modern clutch from what I hear, but I've pressed on it semi-hard and no movement.

Is this something that would likely pop-free with a little harder pressure or are there other concerns or damage that could occur by doing that?

I guess being slammed together for 34yrs could have just caused it to bind

[dn010]

This the car that just came out of 34yrs of dry storage. Brakes and everything seem to be working properly. But the clutch pedal just will not depress.

Now I will say I have NOT tried to force it hard. I know they are heavier than a modern clutch from what I hear, but I've pressed on it semi-hard and no movement.

Is this something that would likely pop-free with a little harder pressure or are there other concerns or damage that could occur by doing that?

I guess being slammed together for 34yrs could have just caused it to bind

The clutch system is hydraulic - if it is the pedal that will not go down, your clutch master cylinder is likely seized.

[David T]

Don't even try to force it. Figure on rebuilding the brake system, clutch hydraulics, cooling system, fuel system, struts, weatherstripping, tires, wiper blades, battery, recalls, and electrical system updates. Once you get the car to drive you will find other items to fix like window motors, speedometer, door adjustments, antennae, etc. It is possible the clutch mechanism itself is stuck. If it is rusted up enough you may have to remove the transmission and clutch and clean it up to make it work. That's why any estimate is only an estimate, it is impossible to know exactly what needs to be done to a "sleeper".

[dn010]

...He is asking why the clutch pedal won't go down...

[David T]

...He is asking why the clutch pedal won't go down...

The short answer, the master cylinder for the clutch is probably seized.

[Josh]

Having sat that long, I am surprised the brakes are also not seized. Sounds like you need new clutch hydraulics.
The stock clutch line is plastic, it is a highly recommended update to switch it out to a stainless line as well.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

The short answer, the master cylinder for the clutch is probably seized.
Much more likely the disc is seized to the pressire plate and flywheel. Sometimes it can be forced free by bump starting but you need a running engine to do that. Even then it will likely chatter afterward and need replacing. I'm flying into San Jose Monday and going on to Vacaville. Perhaps I could take a look and advise you better if there's time. You're in Brentwood correct?
Rob Grady

[hillbillysims]

Hey PJ. I’m a couple hours south of there near chattanooga. Sure appreciate that offer though. That’s kinda what I was thinking too... seized plates.


Much more likely the disc is seized to the pressire plate and flywheel. Sometimes it can be forced free by bump starting but you need a running engine to do that. Even then it will likely chatter afterward and need replacing. I'm flying into San Jose Monday and going on to Vacaville. Perhaps I could take a look and advise you better if there's time. You're in Brentwood correct?
Rob Grady

[dn010]

Hey PJ. I’m a couple hours south of there near chattanooga. Sure appreciate that offer though. That’s kinda what I was thinking too... seized plates.

If you cannot press the clutch pedal down or if you don't even have hydraulic function, you will have no way of knowing that the clutch/plate is seized unless you put it in neutral and try to roll it and find it wants to turn the engine. This isn't a clutch system that uses a cable or manual linkage. It is a hydraulic system and without hydraulics/fluid/operating master and slave cylinders- you cannot do much of anything.

EDIT: Disregard the neutral comment.

[hillbillysims]

Im able to put it in neutral... and it rolls free without attempting to turn motor



If you cannot press the clutch pedal down or if you don't even have hydraulic function, you will have no way of knowing that the clutch/plate is seized unless you put it in neutral and try to roll it and find it wants to turn the engine. This isn't a clutch system that uses a cable or manual linkage. It is a hydraulic system and without hydraulics/fluid/operating master and slave cylinders- you cannot do much of anything.

[dn010]

I am sorry, brain dead moment, in neutral it will roll regardless. You will still need to get a functioning hydraulic clutch system in order to see what is going on.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

The fact that you can't press the pedal down probably means the hydraulic system is holding pressure therefore the plate is frozen. On very early cars the T/O bearing has no plastic sleeve and it can rust to the clutch tube with the same effect. I just pulled the transmission on a 500 series car with this exact problem. I have never seen a frozen master cylinder but once you get it free I guarantee your hydraulic cylinders will start leaking under these circumstances.
Rob

[dn010]

He has a 10,XXX vin- in order to rule out the clutch MC, couldn't he just pop the plastic clutch line off to see if he gets fluid to push through? Probably make a mess but then you'd know where the problem is. Agreed even if nothing is frozen 34 year old cylinders along with the throw out bearing will probably need to be replaced so I guess it doesn't really matter which one is the issue.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

He has a 10,XXX vin- in order to rule out the clutch MC, couldn't he just pop the plastic clutch line off to see if he gets fluid to push through? Probably make a mess but then you'd know where the problem is. Agreed even if nothing is frozen 34 year old cylinders along with the throw out bearing will probably need to be replaced so I guess it doesn't really matter which one is the issue.

The master has a resevoir check/cut off seal to keep fluid from backing up into it when the clutch is depressed. When that fails the pedal goes to the floor but the clutch doesn't release. In that instance taking off the cap is not a good idea. That is not the case here. The only time I've seen this was to my previous garage queen!
Rob

[Ron]

$.02
Remove the slave cylinder bleeder (since they can be clogged after sitting a long time, etc.) and try it.
If the pedal will then move, remove the slave cylinder and see if its piston is seized up.
If the slave is ok, it's probably clutch kit time.
If the pedal will not move, remove the line at the master cylinder and try it.
If the pedal will now move, the line has a problem.
If the pedal will not move, pull the MC....

[David T]

My $0.02 If the fluid looks dark and thick the hydraulics are shot. Replace the master cylinder, the slave cylinder and the plastic clutch line. If the pedal still won't move the clutch is coming out.

[Ron]

He has a 10,XXX vin- in order to rule out the clutch MC, couldn't he just pop the plastic clutch line off to see if he gets fluid to push through? Probably make a mess but then you'd know where the problem is. Agreed even if nothing is frozen 34 year old cylinders along with the throw out bearing will probably need to be replaced so I guess it doesn't really matter which one is the issue.
I missed ^this^ somehow...

I have to say that's what I would wind up doing instead because I am lazy and if the clutch has to come out, it ALL would anyway.