Separating condenser hose from evaporator?

[jangell]

I decided to replace the AC system before tuning and test driving my 3.0L swap, and I’m starting by removing the three hoses.

I’m stuck on the one from the evaporator to the condenser. I got the nut off with a crows foot wrench, which was surprisingly easy. But I can’t actually get the hose to separate from the evaporator. The nut on the evaporator freely spins (with a wrench, anyway) and spins the attached threads with it, so it’s not friezes in place. I just cannot get the hose to release. I even tried prying with a pry bar against the accumulator fo leverage, but it will not budge.

Is there some trick to disconnecting this line?

Thanks!

— Joe

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180127/d8f21eccd96a03fe551eaea2680b618d.jpg

[DMC5180]

Are you replacing the hose and the evaporator or just hose?


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[jangell]

I’m going to convert to R134. I plan in replacing everything, but I wanted to keep the hose ends in case I have them made locally or need them for core swaps. I’m pretty sure everything in here is original. This weekend I’m just trying to get the hoses out.

I guess I could try to cut it out on the evaporator side, but I’m really curious about how to get these apart.

— Joe

[DMC5180]

I’m going to convert to R134. I plan in replacing everything, but I wanted to keep the hose ends in case I have them made locally or need them for core swaps. I’m pretty sure everything in here is original. This weekend I’m just trying to get the hoses out.

I guess I could try to cut it out on the evaporator side, but I’m really curious about how to get these apart.

— Joe

The Evap tube is aluminum, the hose fitting steel

If you can, carefully apply heat to the male nut. A heat gun or carefully placed propane torch flame. Put wet rags around the peripheral area. For protection.

If, you are going 134a, I prefer the modern barrier hose kit system supplied from DPI.

I also upgraded to the quieter Sanden SD7H15 Compressor.



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[jangell]

Worth a shot — thanks.

I just tried hitting it with a MAP torch briefly, before I realized how close the pressure switch harness was. A bit of melted rubber smell from that, but no damage. Might be worth trying again with more fire protection in there.

I also tried a heat gun, but it didn’t seem to do much I think I’m heating up the steel as much as the aluminum due to the space constraints. I might give it another try tomorrow. At worst, I’ll give up and cut it out. An A/C shop a few years back thought I had a leak at the evaporator anyway, which is why I’m doing all this in the first place (“while I’m in there...”)

But it should just come out, right? I just want to make sure I’m not missing something, like a lock or a spring release or something.

I’m definitely going to install barrier hoses. I don’t want to have to to keep recharging it all the time. I’ll be getting a compatible compressor as well, as I need something that works with the belts on the 3.0L engine.

Thanks!

— Joe

[DMC5180]

Worth a shot — thanks.

I just tried hitting it with a MAP torch briefly, before I realized how close the pressure switch harness was. A bit of melted rubber smell from that, but no damage. Might be worth trying again with more fire protection in there.

I also tried a heat gun, but it didn’t seem to do much I think I’m heating up the steel as much as the aluminum due to the space constraints. I might give it another try tomorrow. At worst, I’ll give up and cut it out. An A/C shop a few years back thought I had a leak at the evaporator anyway, which is why I’m doing all this in the first place (“while I’m in there...”)

But it should just come out, right? I just want to make sure I’m not missing something, like a lock or a spring release or something.

I’m definitely going to install barrier hoses. I don’t want to have to to keep recharging it all the time. I’ll be getting a compatible compressor as well, as I need something that works with the belts on the 3.0L engine.

Thanks!

— Joe

Use a wet rag to cool the steel tube.
You can also try some penetrating oil where the joint is.

Its just corrosion between the two causing them to be stuck together.

Frankly, there is no reason to try and save the steel hose ends. Try to put small vice grip up on the steel in the expanded diameter area.

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[Andrew]

There is no need to replace the evap coil when converting the system to 134a. They don't wear out. Frankly replacing the evap is a real PITA, thus, there is no reason that you shouldn't try to save it. Also the stock condenser provides good results with 134a. For example, On 5052 I'm running 134a in an otherwise stock system and I get 42 degrees at the vents.

I've used heat on the evaporator connections to get them apart, but if you use a torch be extremly careful as the fuel lines and tank are extremly close. Make sure to have a fire extinguisher or better yet a hose at the ready. It's better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it!

[DMC5180]

I agree, their is no reason to change Evaporator unless it has a leak or damaged Orifice tube pipe ( the one you are trying to get apart now )

You should at the very least drop the Blower motor out. Stick your phone up in the opening and take a photo of the Evaporator. You are looking too see how much debris has been deposited in there over the years.

Mine had quite a bit of ground up leaves and crud. The previous owner parked it outside a lot and had tall oak trees in his yard.


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[FABombjoy]

damaged Orifice tube pipe
Depending on your AC setup or how comfortable you are with deviating from stock, there are external orifice tube repair options, too.

Even damaged the orifice may still work, too. My tube is all gouged up (my own fault) but the O rings on the valve must have seated well enough as it cools without issue and doesn't freeze up.

[DMC5180]

Depending on your AC setup or how comfortable you are with deviating from stock, there are external orifice tube repair options, too.

Even damaged the orifice may still work, too. My tube is all gouged up (my own fault) but the O rings on the valve must have seated well enough as it cools without issue and doesn't freeze up.

My original was somewhat buggered up and had internal pit corrosion. I replaced it back in 2009.
A job I never wish to do again.


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[jangell]

I should have remembered that location of the fuel lines and tank before trying the MAP torch. I have fire extinguishers handy. I also have a couple of fiberglass fiber blankets; I might try to secure some of them around the whole area to keep some of the heat off, along with some wet rags, before I try again tomorrow.

I'll wrap a cold rag around the steel pipe to cool it down while heating up the , too -- that's a good idea. If all else fails, I'll try vice grips as suggested.

As for why I'm replacing the evaporator: The last time the car was on the road (a few years ago now), it was running through an entire charge of R12 in about 3 months. A local A/C shop put in dye and recharged it, but couldn't find any problems, so they theorized that there was a leak at the evaporator. My entire A/C system is probably original, and I already have half of the interior out (including the center console and radio), so if I'm going to do the evaporator, I might as well do it now. The whole system has been exposed to air for at least 3 years now, too (although that probably just means the orifice tube and accumulator need to be replaced, if I understand things properly). I'll do the heater core too, although I kind of wish I hadn't filled the coolant system already. Oh well. My condenser has some warped aluminum near near the pipes (someone torqued the hose wrong at some point), and two of the mounting tabs are broken, so I figure it's not a bad idea to replace it as well.

On another note, I don't suppose anyone has any 3.0L mounting brackets for an A/C compressor, do they? My engine is only an engine, and didn't come with a compressor, and the 2.8L brackets won't fit on the 3.0L valve covers. I suppose I could always fabricate something, if it comes to that, and if eBay is a bust...

Thanks again!

-- Joe

[FABombjoy]

A job I never wish to do again.
Haha, that's why when I gouged the inside of the tube, I was willing to try some "alternative therapies" before proceeding into HVAC surgery.

[DMC5180]

3.0L uses a direct bolt onto rocker cover configuration

Here is Farrar’s

3.0L engine swap
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=24478&share_tid=14051&share_pid=218915&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdmctalk%2Eorg%2Fshowpost%2Ephp%3F p%3D218915&share_type=t


Also the hose end fittings from DPI are 90 deg elbows so you wouldn’t need to space it up aa high as Farrar’s is.

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[jangell]

3.0L uses a direct bolt onto rocker cover configuration

Here is Farrar’s

3.0L engine swap
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=24478&share_tid=14051&share_pid=218915&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdmctalk%2Eorg%2Fshowpost%2Ephp%3F p%3D218915&share_type=t


I was looking at the valve cover today, and noticed that those four bolt holes looked a lot liken they might line right up with the holes on the compressors I was looking at. That saves me a lot of trouble. Good to know about using spacers so the A/C lines will clear the filler, too.

Thanks!

-- Joe

[DMC5180]

See edit too my previous post

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180127/44b3790a603547f38b8502fca94aad12.jpg

DPI hoses

My compressor uses Vertical port configuration instead of the Original horizontal configuration. I liked it better that way.

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[DMC-81]

Hi there,

Here's a picture of the inside of the fitting in case that helps visualize what is in there:

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=54156&d=1508374315

I agree with the advice. Penetrating fluid, gently and with caution, heat the aluminum evaporator pipe, and cool the metal pipe on the hose ( perhaps using ice cubes?). I've had good luck with the heat and cooling technique on the DeLorean, especially the exhaust. Here's an example just this week on my DD Hemi project. I wanted to remove an OEM dust shield from my old harmonic balancer as apparently the new ones never come with one, and you generally destroy the ring trying to remove it:

Old ring, new balancer:
55192

New balancer with old dust ring installed:
55193

In this case, I put the old balancer in the freezer overnight ( much to my wife's chagrin) and then heated the ring a bit and pried it off.

I use a micro butane torch for these delicate jobs:
https://www.harborfreight.com/butane-micro-torch-63170.html

You shouldn't need much heat.

Good luck.

[jangell]

Thanks for the pic -- it does help me understand what's going on in there. I usually like to take things apart after I have the replacement so that I can get a better idea of how everything goes together, but I don't have them yet.

I'll try the heat-and-cold trick tomorrow. I could try oxyacetylene, but that's a bit overkill here. Although I am wondering if the ability to get a more focused flame would be outweighed by the much greater heat. I'm guessing I stick to MAP. That and I don't want to actually melt the aluminum, which I'd probably do with oxyacetylene.

-- Joe

[Ron]

I don't remember the numbers, but MAPP burns hotter than Propane and it burns roughly 3 times aluminum's melting point.

I'd suggest PB Blaster and the most important part, patience.

[DMC5180]

Thanks for the pic -- it does help me understand what's going on in there. I usually like to take things apart after I have the replacement so that I can get a better idea of how everything goes together, but I don't have them yet.

I'll try the heat-and-cold trick tomorrow. I could try oxyacetylene, but that's a bit overkill here. Although I am wondering if the ability to get a more focused flame would be outweighed by the much greater heat. I'm guessing I stick to MAP. That and I don't want to actually melt the aluminum, which I'd probably do with oxyacetylene.

-- Joe

Yeah, we’re only talking 200-300 degrees. Aluminum expands quickly and you cook some of the corrosion too. But it can also melt the orifice tube. The trick is to heat it quickly, get them apart and quench the fittings right away with wet rags.

Acetylene is fine, you just feather the flame at a distance or use a small welding tip.

If you go to the beginning of Farrar’s 3.0L thread there are more pictures and details about the A/C compressor including the QD head swap that was done.


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[Ratrace427]

You are just fighting corrosion and "O" ring stickage. That hose just slides in there with the plastic orfice tube first. Did you try twisting the hose with a pair of channel locks at the strong flared section? No More than the cost of the orfice tube and hose i would order new. Does your low pressure compressor hose come out the side of the accumulator/dryer or from the bottom? If its the bottom then you are going to change the low pressure hose from the compressor as well. That is a early vin issue and i hope you dont have that to worry about.

I think your biggest concern is the other 1 1/16" size accumulator nut. That is the big pain in the rear. Like stated before the dis-similar metal corrosion has done its job there for sure. Also soak the condenser lines before taking any lines off of it.

I had to buy a small set of oxygen and acetylene bottles and heat the 1 1/16 size nut connection till i melted one flat on the accumulator before the darn thing broke loose.

I would order a snap-on brand line wrench crows foot for this. WHATEVER YOU DO DONT ROUND OFF THE EVAPORATOR NUT. It will want to round off, just step back relax and try something different.

This is a job for an advanced level wrench turner. You will have a feeling of accomplishment when you get done.

[jangell]

I have an early ‘81 (VIN 767) with the hose coming out of the bottom of the accumulator. I plan on upgrading to the 82-83 style and adding a high pressure switch, as well as converting to R134. I’ve been talking with DMC MW about getting everything to do this.

I tried oxyfuel with my small welding tip, and managed to start a very small fire in the plastic or whatever it is where the evaporator pokes through the firewall. It was quickly put out with wet rags, once I managed to stuff them in there. I think I’ll skip anything more than a heat gun going forwards, especially after I spotted the fuel lines and saw just how close they are.

I tried channel lock pliers and vice grips to twist the wide part of the hose near the connector, but it’s still solidly in place.

I also tried to disconnect the hose at the bottom of the accumulator, without much success. I’m covering everything with Kroil (and picking up some PB Blaster; the Kroil isn’t a spray), and I’ll try again next weekend after it has had time to sit. If that still doesn’t work, I’ll cover everything with PB Blaster and try again the next day.

Since I plan on replacing the entire AC system, including the evaporator and condenser, I might just resort to cutting everything out rather than spending the time to carefully disconnect the old hardware. I’ll give it a few more tries before giving up. Its a bit of an unusually luxury to be able to just destroy these bits and tear them out without worry. The evaporator box is expendable as well, due to the high likelihood of a leak there.

I did get the bottom hose off the compressor, so at least something is going well.

Thanks again everyone!

— Joe

[Ratrace427]

i disagree with replacing the evaporator. That took me hours....HOURS to change, but i had a leak. I would however check for a leak with a sniffer before thinking its toast. With a evaporator leak you would usually loose your charge very fast unlike a hose and "O" ring leak which would be a slow leak down. With a evaporator being a crack in a piece of metal the freon rushes out. You are on the right path using wet rags but also rap them with several layers of foil. You will not get this done without acetylene however. You most likely will need some extreme heat. I know this sounds scary but the heat/fire can be directly applied to the area really fast then removed before anything else gets hot. A heat gun applies heat slow and in-directly, getting everything hot.

This sucks that you also have a early vin with the old style accumulator. You wont be able to get the suction hose ran down the length of the car without cutting it in two. I cut it where it would be hidden, under that shield back by the rear end frame bolt. Some owners bolt them together but i used a hose barb with hose clamps. Hose barbs are at the end of every connector anyways so adding a fancy pressed on threaded coupler seems like to much for the job. I just did all of this last summer and it is still fresh on my mind. Give me a call if you want. I will PM you

[DMC5180]

I was going to suggest using Kroil. Its my favorite penetrating oil. Glad to here you already had some on hand.

Why is the Evaporator box expendable? Yes, New Evaporators are available, but the box/housing not so much. In fact you really want to take great care when dismantling it. Based on my experience of removing it. Do not even try to separate the two halves until it is completely out of the car.

Sadly there is no detailed procedure spelling out the HVAC housing removal. You just need take it a step at a time and investigate.

Things that I recall doing.

Remove blower assembly, there are fasteners up inside that hold it to the under side of the dash.

Remove glovebox insert.

I don’t recall if it was necessary to remove the Air Recirculating door assembly before the housing is out.

Remove the Center duct housing assembly. This also gives you access to the defroster ducting for its removal.

Disconnect the Vacuum servos lines.

I think there’s a support bracket under the housing with a couple fasteners.

Disconnect the temperature control cable.

Drop the blower resistor out of the housing, if the connector is heat corroded too it. You can deal with it after things are in the open.

This is most of what I can remember doing.

There maybe more but this is what I can recall from doing it 9 years ago.

Also the black sticky caulking is readily available at most auto parts stores.

Its a 3M product known as black strip caulk.


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[Ron]

^I agree -- Save the evaporator (where is, if it is at all possible)...
Since you are going to wait until the weekend to actually try it, hit it with the PB when you come in each day to keep it wet.
If all else fails, I would cut the hose end off (the hose shops have the fittings) leaving enough to peel it out...

[SS Spoiler]

It is possible to remove the evaporator core from
beneath the dash. I did this 28? years ago when I could
still maneuver my body into impossible places. Take the
seat out for more room. Mine wasn't leaking but I twisted
those same fittings clean off not knowing the nut was not
happy about turning. Like Dave Swingle says your not going
to get all those screws back in place on the box joint....

have fun

[jangell]

i disagree with replacing the evaporator. That took me hours....HOURS to change, but i had a leak. I would however check for a leak with a sniffer before thinking its toast. With a evaporator leak you would usually loose your charge very fast unlike a hose and "O" ring leak which would be a slow leak down. With a evaporator being a crack in a piece of metal the freon rushes out.

A few years back (last time the car was in the road) I had my AC recharged, and within 3 months it was empty. I brought it back to the AC shop, and they recharged it again and put dye in the system. When I came back to check for leaks, the shop couldn’t find anything. He guessed the leak was at the evaporator. That’s why I’m planning on replacing it. I’d rather do everything now, even if it’s a PITA, than have to spend even more time do it later.


You are on the right path using wet rags but also rap them with several layers of foil. You will not get this done without acetylene however. You most likely will need some extreme heat. I know this sounds scary but the heat/fire can be directly applied to the area really fast then removed before anything else gets hot. A heat gun applies heat slow and in-directly, getting everything hot.

I’ll try next week after I’ve let the penetrating oil soak in and failed to simply pull it free. Using foil sounds like a good idea to protect the fiberglass and other plastics and harness.


This sucks that you also have a early vin with the old style accumulator. You wont be able to get the suction hose ran down the length of the car without cutting it in two. I cut it where it would be hidden, under that shield back by the rear end frame bolt. Some owners bolt them together but i used a hose barb with hose clamps. Hose barbs are at the end of every connector anyways so adding a fancy pressed on threaded coupler seems like to much for the job. I just did all of this last summer and it is still fresh on my mind. Give me a call if you want. I will PM you

You mean the hose from the accumulator to the compressor? Yeah, I figured I’d just cut that in half to pull it out, and then I’ll convert to the later style. I don’t actually have the shields on my car (not sure I ever had them), so I don’t have to worry about them.

I’ve done so much with the engine swapnoverbtheblast few years that some of these things seem almost simple by comparison. :)

Thanks for the offer to call you — if I get stuck again next weekend, I may well take you up on that.

— Joe

[DMC-81]

I have an early ‘81 (VIN 767) with the hose coming out of the bottom of the accumulator. I plan on upgrading to the 82-83 style and adding a high pressure switch, as well as converting to R134. I’ve been talking with DMC MW about getting everything to do this.


Cool. Here's my thread on refurbing and updating my early system in case it helps. I realize that you are upgrading the accumulator and converting to R134, but perhaps other aspects will help:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?15632-Refurbing-a-Very-Early-A-C-System&highlight=Refurbing+early

[jangell]

I was going to suggest using Kroil. Its my favorite penetrating oil. Glad to here you already had some on hand.

Unfortunately, the Kroil I have is in the form of a can that you pour onto the part, and it's 3/4 empty and I couldn't get it into a position that I could get it onto these parts. I wound up getting some PB Blaster and liberally coated all of the fasteners with it, but I do like Kroil.


Why is the Evaporator box expendable? Yes, New Evaporators are available, but the box/housing not so much. In fact you really want to take great care when dismantling it. Based on my experience of removing it. Do not even try to separate the two halves until it is completely out of the car.

Sorry, terminology problem from me mostly learning as I go. I mean the evaporator CORE is expendable, since I plan on replacing it, but the BOX I intend to keep.


Sadly there is no detailed procedure spelling out the HVAC housing removal. You just need take it a step at a time and investigate.

Things that I recall doing.

Thanks for the tips. I've been Googling around a bit seeing what I could find. I already have the center console, radio and knee pads out (while trying to chase down an electrical issue that was nowhere near there, and after I had just reinstalled it all). I had seem that the globe box and blower motor have to come out, and the hot/cold air mixer door, that support brackets you mentioned, and the passenger seat (which I had out recently as well, of course, and then put back in) for easier access and carpets so you don't ruin them with coolant from the heater core.

I seen anything about the vacuum servos or defroster ducting. Removing all this will be useful practice for me, since I want to replace the vacuum system with electric actuators with the goal of putting in a more moaner climate control mechanism with a thermostat and possibly separate passenger/driver temperatures (mostly as a project, not because there's a specific need to do it, since the vacuum controls work fine).


Also the black sticky caulking is readily available at most auto parts stores.

Its a 3M product known as black strip caulk.

I'll hunt it down. I think I have some of that in my garage, actually, but I never knew what it was called. Thanks!

-- Joe

[jangell]

Cool. Here's my thread on refurbing and updating my early system in case it helps. I realize that you are upgrading the accumulator and converting to R134, but perhaps other aspects will help:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?15632-Refurbing-a-Very-Early-A-C-System&highlight=Refurbing+early

Great -- thanks! I stumbled onto this thread in my earlier searches, too, and thought I should get that tool you used for the orifice tube as well, and it's only $12 (part 27004) on Amazon. The step-by-step photos you have are going to be a great help.

I also found this page (http://delorean6575revisited.blogspot.com/2013/08/resurrecting-r12-ac-system-and.html) when I was googling around, but unfortunately all the images links are broken.

I haven't tried disconnecting the evaporator from the accumulator yet -- just the hose from the evaporator to the condenser at the evaporator, plus the other end of that hose that I successfully disconnected from the condenser today. I hosed it all down with PB Blaster for an attempt next weekend, after I get the aforementioned hose loose... I also got the impression that the evaporator/accumulator connection might be easier from the trunk after removing access cover, but I haven't taken that off yet (it's another piece that I JUST put back in a few weeks ago, too).

And while I'm here, does anyone have any recommendations for a compressor for a 3.0L car? Apparently at some point I did some and decided a Sanden SD709 or SD7H15 (I think they're the same thing; mentioned in this thread (http://dmctalk.org/archive/index.php/t-2089.html)) compatible is what the 3.0L needs, but I'm not sure about brand, or if there are differences I need to worry about, or anything like that.

Thanks again!

-- Joe

[DMC5180]

3M strip-calk p/n 051135-08578. (Black)

Comes in 12” peel apart strips. Blue box.


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[dn010]

Along with cork tape for the job you'll also want to buy some foam tape to replace your now non-existent old foam on/in the heat/ac box.

I have done this job twice now - if there is any reasonable way, do try to save the existing evaporator; you can flush it out etc. Once you're removing the dash you'll wish you had salvaged it.

The first time I did this, I removed the entire dash and entire box. The latest time, I removed the dash and only half the box, leaving the heater core in place and connected to the cooling system saving a ton of time that would otherwise be spent draining, refilling, bleeding, etc. Be careful removing your dash & bannicle, if it is old and brittle you may crack things, you can also tear up your A-post trim removing the dash if you're not careful. If the dash is old and sunburned, now is the perfect time to fill cracks & spray them down with vinyl paint and make them look new.

Cork tape on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049MM5BM
Foam tape on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SYQ3VNA

There is more than enough of each tape to complete the job.

[jangell]

I thought the top of the dash and the binnacle were two of the few things that didn't have to come off, and that it was mostly the center console, center stack various passenger side elements that had to be removed. I want to do some custom dash work, so learning how to remove all that won't be a horrible thing to do, even if it is a PITA.

Unfortunately, after 33 years of being garaged, I started storing the car outside, and in the first year of constant sun exposure the binnacle finally cracked. I'll be replacing that at some point too (not just now, though). The dash itself is still intact (for now...).

I admit that I did just fill the coolant system as I got ready to test the 3.0L conversion, although I haven't actually bled it yet, so I only have to do 90% of the coolant work for the heater core. :) Of course, I've taken off the rear fascia three times since I put it back on due to mistakes I made with some wiring in the tail lights, and the center console out twice more, and took out the relay strips again. That's the problem with doing a bunch of things and then trying to test them all at the same time (mostly it was other things to do while I waited for engine swap parts).

Thanks for the links -- I've added both to my Amazon cart.

-- Joe

[Andrew]

I thought the top of the dash and the binnacle were two of the few things that didn't have to come off, and that it was mostly the center console, center stack various passenger side elements that had to be removed. I want to do some custom dash work, so learning how to remove all that won't be a horrible thing to do, even if it is a PITA.

Unfortunately, after 33 years of being garaged, I started storing the car outside, and in the first year of constant sun exposure the binnacle finally cracked. I'll be replacing that at some point too (not just now, though). The dash itself is still intact (for now...).

I admit that I did just fill the coolant system as I got ready to test the 3.0L conversion, although I haven't actually bled it yet, so I only have to do 90% of the coolant work for the heater core. :) Of course, I've taken off the rear fascia three times since I put it back on due to mistakes I made with some wiring in the tail lights, and the center console out twice more, and took out the relay strips again. That's the problem with doing a bunch of things and then trying to test them all at the same time (mostly it was other things to do while I waited for engine swap parts).

Thanks for the links -- I've added both to my Amazon cart.

-- Joe

The dash pad and binnacle do not need to come out. No access advantage will be gained from removing them as the underbody that the dash bolts to remains in the way of the HVAC box.The center console, glove box liner, and the passenger side knee pad need to come off. Having had the interior apart, I can attest to the fact that spending a couple bucks on a set of gear wrenches (or at the very least a 10 mm) with a flex head is a wise investment :-)

[jangell]

Great — that lines up with the other information I’ve found about what to take apart. Luckily, I have a whole bunch of wrenches of different lengths and shapes from when I did the engine swap. At one point I had to use a series of adaptors to get the transmission bolts out. Hopefully I’ll have the right once’s for his, or be able to assemble something. I even have a set of gear wrenches.
Thanks

— Joe

[jangell]

After sitting for a week with penetrating oil, I was able to clamp vice grips onto the stubborn line, and after a few hard twists it actually spun, and I was able to pull it free! Thanks everyone for the help.

I also got the lower hose off of the accumulator, and started draining the radiator (have to do that anyway for the heater core) and dropping it and the condenser, which I'll also be replacing (not the radiator, though; that's already new-ish). Next weekend I'll remove the trunk access and see about separating the evaporator from the accumulator, and then the next week I can start putting the new parts in.

Thanks again!

-- Joe

[DMC5180]

As I recall the heater core does not drain all that well.
You may want too blow the core out with low pressure air or cap the brass tubes. When I disconnected the lines from the core, I found the brass tubes partially collapsed from beings over tightened at some point, possibly the factory.


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[jangell]

Good to know -- thanks. I'm planning on removing the passenger side carpet to keep the mess to a minimum, just in case.

-- Joe

[DMCMW Dave]

When I disconnected the lines from the core, I found the brass tubes partially collapsed from beings over tightened at some point, possibly the factory.

I've seen that often enough that I tend to agree. Doesn't really seem to cause problems, but apparently someone at the factory was pretty aggressive on those particular clamps.

[ritztoys]

Sorry for this OT question, I figured you guys with the experience who have had your ac/heater box out or partially disassembled could help me here.

My heater/ac temperature control is 'stuck' in ac mode, currently my center console is removed as well as both seats.

Does the 'control door' inside the heater/ac box rest against foam or other sealing material? (that this door could be stuck too?)

I have penetrating oil on the cable to be sure it isn't the problem(rusted in place?)

Do you guys think I can fix this without removing the heater/ac box?

Any suggestions would be appreciated, thanks.......

[DMC5180]

Are you saying the control is Stuck as in it doesn’t move period? It should be noted that the knob can be installed on the shaft in 6 positions. Perhaps the shaft all the way Hot but the knob is positioned to point Cold. Trying to move it to Hot would make you think it is stuck In Cold.


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[ritztoys]

DMC5180,

Thanks for your reply. Yes, it is stuck period! I understand that it can be mounted in six positions, but I can clearly see that nothing is moving to the point I can almost twist the radio console in its' mounting.

I try to use the control knob as well as 'pulling'(with long nose needle-nose pliers) on the cable leading to the heater/ac door lever .......and nothing moves! The gear assembly in this control is at its' maximum position, so I can see I'm pulling in the correct direction as opposed to 'pushing' this cable control. (if stuck in heater mode)

This is why I suspect either the cable is rusted in place or the heater/ac door is stuck internally?

[DMC5180]

It would be pretty weird to have rust in that relatively short cable. But anything is possible I guess. Can you unmount the rotary control mechanism and fish it out the Passenger footwell area too get a better look to see if it is jammed in some way?


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[ritztoys]

It would be pretty weird to have rust in that relatively short cable. But anything is possible I guess. Can you unmount the rotary control mechanism and fish it out the Passenger footwell area too get a better look to see if it is jammed in some way?


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The only reason I mentioned rust is, I can see the lower cable(next to the door lever) with rust between the cable sheath and its' attachment to the lever.

I'll take your suggestion to heart and remove said mechanism to check for any kind of binding. I don't think the 'gear assembly' is at fault as it does try to rotate, meshing with the smaller gear from the control knob shaft.

This check may take a few days to complete, temperature is in the teens today, garage isn't very friendly when its' this cold!

Until then I'll keep applying penetrating oil to cable and the rotate point of the heater/ac door lever where it exits from the heater/ac box bottom. (hard place to work in, but what isn't a hard area to work in on this car?)

My other question hasn't been answered yet, does the "control door" rest against any kind of foam, rubber or other sealant, which it could stick against?

[jangell]

I got the accumulator out completely today. Surprisingly, the nut to the evaporator came off quite easily, which was nice. I also got the coolant lines off the heater core while I was there.

I wound up giving up on the condenser and cutting off the upper hose, which is fine since I'm replacing it anyway. It turns out only one of the four brackets that secure it to the radiator were still attached, and the last one was about to give out.

I also pulled off the shield protecting the fuel tank, just in case I needed access there (I don't think I do, but it was pretty dirty under there). I managed to break all but one bolt along the front edge, but the bolts along the two other sides came out easily. Of course, since this shield slides under another piece of meta at the frontl, I still can't actually remove it from the car because it's stuck on what's left of those broken bolts. I'm probably just going to put it back up and re-install the bolts along the other two sides (and the one good bolt on the front edge). I seriously doubt there is any chance that it's going to come loose while driving.

All I have to do now is remove the old compressor hoses from under the car, and that's it for the exterior. All my replacement parts are arriving this week, and then I can tackle actually getting the evaporator out next weekend.

One thing that I did find curious was two metal lines that appear to have been cut and crimped right at the edge of the shield. Anyone know what these are? I haven't tried tracing them back yet, but I couldn't find them in the manuals. It's the two brass-looking ones that are zip-tied to the coolant pipe.

55306

Thanks!

-- Joe

[DMC5180]

Those lines look like they were an attempt to the re-route the heater lines.

Is your car an Auto or Manual?


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[jangell]

Auto.

-- Joe

[DMC5180]

Possibly an attempt at running a separate transmission cooler to the front of the car.


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[jangell]

Makes sense. Zip ties aren't actually factory for this sort of thing. I do have PJ Grady's heat exchanger things wrapped around my transmission pipes for a similar reason, but I never thought to try running a dedicated cooler/radiator setup.

If I trace the lines and find out where they go, I'll report back. Thanks.

-- Joe

[David T]

Looks like copper pipes, definitely not original. Could be for the heater, fuel, or transmission. I would remove them. As for the evap coil, I would do everything possible to try not to have to replace it. R & R ing that heater box is one of the biggest jobs you can do on a Delorean. If you don't munch up the ends of the pipes, make a hole in the pipe trying to replace the orifice, and the coil isn't leaking, you should use the old coil. Test it, flush it out and seal it up till you can finish the rest of the A/C system. if you do have to replace the evap coil you should rebuild/replace EVERYTHING in the heater box so you never have to go in there again. To remove the heater box you have to remove just about all of the interior to do it.

[DMC5180]

Makes sense. Zip ties aren't actually factory for this sort of thing. I do have PJ Grady's heat exchanger things wrapped around my transmission pipes for a similar reason, but I never thought to try running a dedicated cooler/radiator setup.

If I trace the lines and find out where they go, I'll report back. Thanks.

-- Joe

If the lines just end up Doing a Trombone U-turn, I’d say it was an attempt at a trans cooler. That is the Cold return side from the radiator they are tied to.


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