Auto, 81, Grey, W/ Windshield Antenna Wanted

[iOutatime]

Hey everyone! Had plans to purchase VIN 05870 from DMC Midwest come March, but found out today from Mike that it sold. So I'm back to square one. :(
I'm looking for an late 81' with a windshield antenna and grey interior. I'd prefer an automatic and <50,000 miles if possible. The reason being the traffic in my area would make it a nightmare to shift in and out of gears constantly and I've only ever driven a manual once and I couldn't live with myself if I tore up a transmission. And as for miles, well.. who doesn't want low miles, am I right?

[Gregadeth]

FYI It's the early 81s that had the windshield antennas. Good luck either way.

[iOutatime]

FYI It's the early 81s that had the windshield antennas. Good luck either way.
D'oh! Sorry about that. I had a brain fart there for a second. :8ball:

[Mark D]

Are you actually looking for a car with a windshield antenna, or just a car that does not have the front RH fender mounted antenna? There were three main locations for the antenna during production. In chronological order:

1. Cars up to VIN 2710 had the windshield antenna
2. Due to radio reception/quality issues the antenna moved moved to the RH front fender for better reception.
3. For aesthetic reasons, the antenna was moved to the LH rear quarter panel hidden next to the evap/emissions canister inside the pontoon. This seems to be the most popular version today since it is power retracting and does not spoil the look of the car when not in use. People add the rear power antenna to cars that originally had the windshield antenna for better reception and on cars that originally had the fender mounted antennas to improve the look of the car.

Most of the early cars in the VIN range with windshield antennas had black interiors. Grey interior was not available as an option until later in the VIN range (with exception of some 600 series VIN test cars). From the VIN list linked here (http://www.dmcnews.com/faq/img/news/n_vinlst.pdf) it looks like the first production grey interior car with auto transmission was VIN 2436. If you scroll through the between 2436 and 2710 (where the windshield antenna production ended) nearly all of them are black interior cars. The listing is not 100% complete, but looks like there could be less than a dozen cars built with the windshield antenna, grey interior, and auto transmission.

If you're seeking this exact combination you are probably better off buying a later production car where grey interior/automatic cars were common and with the antenna in the rear quarter panel location. At that point you could buy one of the new reproduction antenna windshields http://store.delorean.com/p-9751-windshield-wantenna.aspx and have it installed to replace the standard windshield.

If you're interested in more of the rolling production changes there is some good info here:
http://www.dmctoday.com/showthread.php?1823-The-Illustrated-Guide-To-Running-Production-Changes

[iOutatime]

Are you actually looking for a car with a windshield antenna, or just a car that does not have the front RH fender mounted antenna? There were three main locations for the antenna during production. In chronological order:

1. Cars up to VIN 2710 had the windshield antenna
2. Due to radio reception/quality issues the antenna moved moved to the RH front fender for better reception.
3. For aesthetic reasons, the antenna was moved to the LH rear quarter panel hidden next to the evap/emissions canister inside the pontoon. This seems to be the most popular version today since it is power retracting and does not spoil the look of the car when not in use. People add the rear power antenna to cars that originally had the windshield antenna for better reception and on cars that originally had the fender mounted antennas to improve the look of the car.

Most of the early cars in the VIN range with windshield antennas had black interiors. Grey interior was not available as an option until later in the VIN range (with exception of some 600 series VIN test cars). From the VIN list linked here (http://www.dmcnews.com/faq/img/news/n_vinlst.pdf) it looks like the first production grey interior car with auto transmission was VIN 2436. If you scroll through the between 2436 and 2710 (where the windshield antenna production ended) nearly all of them are black interior cars. The listing is not 100% complete, but looks like there could be less than a dozen cars built with the windshield antenna, grey interior, and auto transmission.

If you're seeking this exact combination you are probably better off buying a later production car where grey interior/automatic cars were common and with the antenna in the rear quarter panel location. At that point you could buy one of the new reproduction antenna windshields http://store.delorean.com/p-9751-windshield-wantenna.aspx and have it installed to replace the standard windshield.

If you're interested in more of the rolling production changes there is some good info here:
http://www.dmctoday.com/showthread.php?1823-The-Illustrated-Guide-To-Running-Production-Changes

Oh yes! If that's the case I have no problem purchasing a later car with an automatic/grey interior and converting it to a windshield antenna. I know it seems counter intuitive, but I hear the new windshield DMC sells increases reception as well there being much stronger FM signals these days, plus I just personally prefer that look. I know front-side passenger antenna cars have a hold in the stainless and would like to avoid that. If you or anyone can point me in the right direction to a car with a grey interior, automatic, and a rear antenna, I'd be more than happy to take a look! Thanks again, Mark.

[Jonathan]

Oh yes! If that's the case I have no problem purchasing a later car with an automatic/grey interior and converting it to a windshield antenna. I know it seems counter intuitive, but I hear the new windshield DMC sells increases reception as well there being much stronger FM signals these days, plus I just personally prefer that look. I know front-side passenger antenna cars have a hold in the stainless and would like to avoid that. If you or anyone can point me in the right direction to a car with a grey interior, automatic, and a rear antenna, I'd be more than happy to take a look! Thanks again, Mark.

Do you honestly listen to the radio a lot? I can understand not wanting the front fender antenna, but the rear power one is out of the way when you don't need it and better for reception than the windshield integrated one.

There are two gray interior automatics on eBay right now. One at $30k and one at $35k. Both need attention. The $30k has some carbureted mess going on. The $35k one has some interior portions in a mess, but otherwise ok. Mechanical is better it seems.

[iOutatime]

Do you honestly listen to the radio a lot? I can understand not wanting the front fender antenna, but the rear power one is out of the way when you don't need it and better for reception than the windshield integrated one.

There are two gray interior automatics on eBay right now. One at $30k and one at $35k. Both need attention. The $30k has some carbureted mess going on. The $35k one has some interior portions in a mess, but otherwise ok. Mechanical is better it seems.

I wouldn't say I listen to the radio a lot, but I do tend to power it on and play my own music. I think I see the listings. The one from Evolve Motors looks like trouble waiting to happen unless they knew what they where doing (which I doubt). The one from GatewayClassics seems to be much better, but I'd still have DMC take a look at it if I were to get it. Looks like the front is starting to show signs of bowing. What did you mean by the interior being in a mess? I don't see any photos of the inside.

[Jonathan]

I wouldn't say I listen to the radio a lot, but I do tend to power it on and play my own music. I think I see the listings. The one from Evolve Motors looks like trouble waiting to happen unless they knew what they where doing (which I doubt). The one from GatewayClassics seems to be much better, but I'd still have DMC take a look at it if I were to get it. Looks like the front is starting to show signs of bowing. What did you mean by the interior being in a mess? I don't see any photos of the inside.

If you scroll down a little bit on the eBay ad for that car listed in Houston (without the carb), you'll see a link for "full item description." It pulls up a longer description of the car and a pile more photos.

Tell you what? How about as a little game to test your knowledge or learn more about the cars, you look at those pictures and you tell me what you see? What appears to be missing, or not quite right, or needing attention? Start with the interior pics and include the engine bay or other areas if you feel like it. I see a few things, but you'll need to ultimately be able to spot things on your own. Lets see how you do.

[Ron]

Tell you what? How about as a little game to test your knowledge or learn more about the cars, you look at those pictures and you tell me what you see? What appears to be missing, or not quite right, or needing attention? Start with the interior pics and include the engine bay or other areas if you feel like it. I see a few things, but you'll need to ultimately be able to spot things on your own. Lets see how you do.
Maybe a "what all's lacking Delorean owners" game in the General Section would be better??
(Do you see? ;-)

[iOutatime]

If you scroll down a little bit on the eBay ad for that car listed in Houston (without the carb), you'll see a link for "full item description." It pulls up a longer description of the car and a pile more photos.

Tell you what? How about as a little game to test your knowledge or learn more about the cars, you look at those pictures and you tell me what you see? What appears to be missing, or not quite right, or needing attention? Start with the interior pics and include the engine bay or other areas if you feel like it. I see a few things, but you'll need to ultimately be able to spot things on your own. Lets see how you do.

My apologies, I didn't see any other photos under the full description as on my phone it just loaded a blank page. I see what your saying now that I can view it on my computer. Here's what I can see to my untrained eye:

*For it being an 81' car, the driver side is an 83' styled door as told by the door handles.
*The headliner on each door seems to be missing.
*The seats seem to have been re-dyed I believe.
*There what looks to be an aftermarket/replacement windshield wiper stalk.
*After removing the dash cover, that binnacle is going to be a challenge. Either getting a donor, recovering it, or a fiberglass reproduction.
*Besides the cracked dash, it look like they tried to tape some parts of it?
*It has what looks to be an aftermarket set of window control and rear defrost switches.
*The T panel interior carpeting look like it might be sagging.
*Different sets of tiers with the caps looking a little weathered.
*Engine bay looks a little dirty with some weathering to the stickers, but all 3 are present.
*Has been upgraded to the stainless steel reservoir, but no signs of a cover over the water pump.
*Looks to be stock R12 AC and is missing the jump start lead cover box.
*The under body looks to be a little rusty and the car seems to be sitting at stock height.
*And the front fascia looks like it might be starting to get some "eye brows". You can either try the heat gun trick or swap the entire fascia for a fiberglass one.

Is there anything I might have missed?..

[dn010]

Interesting to me, that they show the car with later style door pull straps, and then later below those photos show pictures of the car with the earlier style...
There also appears to be a ripple in the passenger side crumple tube which is not a good thing at all.

[iOutatime]

Interesting to me, that they show the car with later style door pull straps, and then later below those photos show pictures of the car with the earlier style...
There also appears to be a ripple in the passenger side crumple tube which is not a good thing at all.

I think it's safe to say they're wanting $35k for a $20k car (at best). The prices vary wildly with DeLoreans from what I've seen, but there's a few (mostly on eBay) who charge Ferrari prices for a car that's been sitting in a barn and has never had it's fluids drained since 1992. In those cases, your looking at least a minimum $10k to put into the car. The common saying is "Buy a car for 20, put 10 in. Buy a car for 10, put 30 in". Hence why I think my price range of $30k-$40k is a good range for someone looking to get started with a mechanically sound car and learning as things fall off.

Hopefully if I can find a car by August, I can take it to DCS and this year have something in common with the owners and show me demonstrations of what I should work on. I've been doing my research, attending club meets, and meeting one-on-one with owners for the better part of 3 years now, so this year I want to pull the trigger and start living the dream (or nightmare to some lol).

[Jonathan]

Maybe a "what all's lacking Deloran owners" game in the General Section would be better??
(Do you see? ;-)

Sure. Go ahead and move these last few posts over to a new thread if you like.

You want to spell DeLorean correctly in the title, or was that part of your game??

[Jonathan]

Nice job!

*For it being an 81' car, the driver side is an 83' styled door as told by the door handles.

Yea, pull strap on the passenger door is the early style and the driver's door has the pull strap built in. This car is VIN 6010 and those pull straps changed at VIN 5992 to 5993. Not likely that it came from the factory with one of each, but you never know. That'd be a first I'd say!

*The headliner on each door seems to be missing.

I see them there, but the fabric is due for a change. If they were not there at all, you would see right to the stainless (and cave paintings underneath typically).

*The seats seem to have been re-dyed I believe.

Yea, that's some sort of abysmal two-tone ugliness. Or three tone maybe since they look a bit yellow on the shoulders.

*There what looks to be an aftermarket/replacement windshield wiper stalk.

Good call. And it's bent forward too. Likely out of the reach of your finger with your hand still on the wheel. More often see the left side stalk bent from your knee, but this one got bonked on the right it would appear. Those wiper/stalk assemblies were $150 via DMCH last time I checked.

*After removing the dash cover, that binnacle is going to be a challenge. Either getting a donor, recovering it, or a fiberglass reproduction.
*Besides the cracked dash, it look like they tried to tape some parts of it?

Cracked dash and cracked binnacle. The dash isn't so bad, but the binnacle is hard to miss.

*It has what looks to be an aftermarket set of window control and rear defrost switches.

Right. Hard to tell what is going on there. One too many dummy switches. Not sure what is what or whether the windows work or not. That'd be a follow-up thing either in person or asking the seller.

*The T panel interior carpeting look like it might be sagging.

Likely same age and fabric as the ones on the doors.

*Different sets of tiers with the caps looking a little weathered.

You mean the rubber or the steel? Looks like it could be both. Hard to see close enough, but they might have a mix of the two different rim spoke styles.

http://support.delorean.com/kb/a82/delorean-wheels-the-many-differences.aspx

*Engine bay looks a little dirty with some weathering to the stickers, but all 3 are present.
*Has been upgraded to the stainless steel reservoir, but no signs of a cover over the water pump.
*Looks to be stock R12 AC and is missing the jump start lead cover box.

I think they have the two vacuum lines on the cold start valve reversed. Not sure what that would do to the engine operation?
Yea, bulkhead connector cover is missing. Not the end of the world, but not the cheapest part in the world either to go buy a replacement for.
That cover over the water pump is part of the throttle spool recall. The deice shield isn't there and no telling if the other aspects are done either. The front end suspension recall may or may not be done either.
Engine bay light switch looks like it isn't working.

*The under body looks to be a little rusty and the car seems to be sitting at stock height.
*And the front fascia looks like it might be starting to get some "eye brows". You can either try the heat gun trick or swap the entire fascia for a fiberglass one.

[Ron]

Sure. Go ahead and move these last few posts over to a new thread if you like.

You want to spell DeLorean correctly in the title, or was that part of your game??
I was partially playing a game. That was a typo. I meant "Delorean".

I almost always spell it "De Lorean" and there is a reason I didn't....Now you have two clues.
(Do you see it now? ;-)

[Ron]

Aw, come on -- He played your game...
(And played well too! ;-)

[Jonathan]

<-- No idea what is being asked of me here??? Whatever your clues were, Ron, they went miles over my head. Sorry.

[Ron]

lol sorry, I know it's way out there and was going to ask Mason if he wanted me to clean up his thread. But then he did so well playing before I had a chance to ask.....

If you want to play- It's a puzzle/joke (lame as it may be ;-). Recall your game had him searching, for flaws. Now it's your turn to do the same, except I can't tell you what to search for w/o giving it away. But I am certain you will know when you find it. All you need is right there in my first post.
(If he doesn't mind meanwhile...)

[Shep]

Maybe a "what all's lacking Delorean owners" game in the General Section would be better??
(Do you see? ;-)Oh god it's been forever since I saw one of those!!! I know how I'm spending my weekend: catching up on nostalgia! :partyhat:

[Ron]

Oh god it's been forever since I saw one of those!!! I know how I'm spending my weekend: catching up on nostalgia! :partyhat::thumbup:Congratulations!

And my hat is off to you for not giving it away.

[Jonathan]

Very nice looking car here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1983-DeLorean/232644962408?hash=item362ab86868:g:escAAOSwWktabBM 6&vxp=mtr

VIN 15918, automatic, gray interior, no fender antenna, 1,600 miles. Price is up there though at $56k. No frame pics that I could see. Would have expected to see the engine wiring harness be routed "under" the W-pipe and not over it for a car made this late. Would be interested to know if it sells for close to this amount.

[Flicky]

VIN 15918, automatic, gray interior, no fender antenna, 1,600 miles...


I'm going to say it is very unlikely that this was originally purchased, or is currently in the hands, of a car collector. No collector I know would ever let a rusty relay bracket or exhaust stay like that on their car. The driver door, where the driver's arm would be, has too much filth on it to actually be a 1,600 mile car. I'm still trying to figure out how the DeLorean mileage game works. While I'm sure the angle drive died at that point, and it hasn't seen much driving in the last 30 years with them tires; I'm willing to bet that it was driven as a secondary sports car for the first 4 or so years of it's life.

Is it weird to anyone else that DeLoreans almost always try to play the low mileage game? Almost all other collectible old cars have stopped with that. With the only exception I've found is car's that aren't actually collectible but go to auction as something special. Like a 1989 LaBaron convertible with 300 miles I saw the other day.

[81dmc]

Advice to potential buyers of 1981's, especially the early ones: Look closely at the door gaps. If the the rear gap is raised or the roof is not straight, the doors are likely bent like a taco.

Also, all those eBay cars are way overpriced! :jawdrop: My car was a lot cleaner than that one from gateway, and I paid around $20k for it in 2013.

[iOutatime]

Advice to potential buyers of 1981's, especially the early ones: Look closely at the door gaps. If the the rear gap is raised or the roof is not straight, the doors are likely bent like a taco.

Also, all those eBay cars are way overpriced! :jawdrop: My car was a lot cleaner than that one from gateway, and I paid around $20k for it in 2013.

Indeed. I'm a strong believer that there are good cars still for $30k out there (maybe even a few under $30k). Low mileage is nice, but not a requirement. I care more about how many miles are on the car itself rather than the odometer. I hope to find one before DCS this summer, but it depends on how much my credit union is willing to give me. If the money ain't there, it ain't there. At least I tried and I'll try again next year and the year after that if I have to.

[DMCMW Dave]

My car was a lot cleaner than that one from gateway, and I paid around $20k for it in 2013.

Collector car pricing, including DeLoreans, has changed (upwards) quite a bit in the last 5 years.

[iOutatime]

Collector car pricing, including DeLoreans, has changed (upwards) quite a bit in the last 5 years.

Oh hey Dave! Just got back from watching the Super Bowl and got a reply from you on the thread I made.
I agree with you on the pricing. I doubt it could go much higher in the next few years, but I figured I best grab one now before something drives up the price. I've got money in stocks, perfect credit, and a full time job, but I'm also single, in college, and young so I've got my pros and cons. Here's to wishing on a star the bank gives $30k and says "go crazy, kid." :rofl: I could get a co-signer, but I doubt my parents would like the idea of their young son buying a "sports car" while in college.

It will purely be a Spring/Summer time car and stowed away (probably at DMC MW) for the winter. Hell most of the ones I've seen in my price range so far need some work done to them to get them back to somewhat stock. The most I'd do is a stainless steel reservoir and some gas lines and small things as such. This is something I want to keep with my family and teach my child how to maintain and hope he/she has a love for the car the same way I do on those summer evenings with colors of orange and red filling the sky and the low connection to the road. I can one day pass it down and leave a copy of my will in the glove box dictating what to do and not to do to the car with a mixtape of my favorite driving songs. Maybe they'll do the same and make it a tradition haha!

In the end if I can get it, you can bet your ass I will try. But if the money ain't there, it ain't there. And I'll be trying again next year and the year after that until I can get one of these cars for myself...

[David T]

As a general rule, I don't think it is a great idea for someone so young (and in collage) to get into debt for a car that is not even a daily driver. What happens if an expensive repair comes up, you don't have the money to fix it, and you still have to keep paying the bank every month for a car that doesn't work! Now you start looking to sell it to bail out of the debt but the car isn't going to sell for enough to wash out the balance of the debt. I suggest you wait til you can better afford it. Another good reason to sell is that soon you will have a family and the Delorean isn't a good family car. I know I will get "flak" about this opinion, some do have a Delorean even with these circumstances. Better to save up for a house, THAT will go up in value, not a car. Go take a look at the thread in the open forum about apartment dwellers.

[SamHill]

Concentrate on your friendships and studies in college. Cars-- any cars -- can and should be deferred.

[Jonathan]

I doubt it could go much higher in the next few years...

Then wait. If the oldest financial advice out there is to buy low and sell high, then buying now when the values are at their highest is a bad decision.


As a general rule, I don't think it is a great idea for someone so young (and in collage) to get into debt for a car that is not even a daily driver


Concentrate on your friendships and studies in college. Cars-- any cars -- can and should be deferred.

Agreed and agreed. These cars are about a lot more than just the money.

I think Michael said something similar recently about it taking more than just money to happily own one of these cars. Something more valuable than money that is. Time, interest, passion, perseverance, stubbornness, individuality or some combination of those.

Successfully owning a DeLorean has very little to do with simply having the money. Unless of course the money is in short supply. Then it's the only thing that matters and it'll likely sink your ship before you even get it out of port.

[iOutatime]

Sorry I haven't been on the thread as of recent. School and work tend to come in waves so I have to put my focus towards them. I appreciate all the support and worry about my purchase of a DeLorean (both privately and publicly). However much I do want this car, school and work are my priorities :).


If the oldest financial advice out there is to buy low and sell high...

Here's how I see things from a financial perspective: The current price for DeLoreans has gone up quite a bit in just the last 5 years. As much as young people such as myself would hate to be dictated to, allow me to do it to myself for just a second. 6 months out of university, I get to start paying back my student debit. My BFA degree in Graphic Arts and Commercial Film will be lucky to find me a consistent job, but that's what I get for being raised to do what you love for a living. My minor in Marketing will probably be the only thing that saves my ass. Then I get to mortgage a house or maybe I just stay single and live out my life in a studio apartment. If I go that route, then maybe I might be able to revisit this dream in my forties. If I ever am blessed enough to find me a girl, I get to raise a family. But I can kiss this dream goodbye or wait until I'm 74 with arthritis and the car is somehow $80K+.

I apologize if I come off as rude. But from the perspective of what my parents and friends from a suburban lifestyle tell me, it seems quite bleak. I have investments in stocks that I have been fortunate enough to see consistent benefits from. While this is not a form of stable income, I'm positioning myself to be a full-time student and worker this year as well. Ron (an administrator here) was kind enough to share some personal experience on how he came to acquiring one of these cars and has confidence in me as well. I honestly don't know where the price of the car will go. But if we can all agree on that current prices are inflated to some degree, then what, how, and when do prices begin to correct? Will we need to see some sort of event or will time just eventually take it's course?


I think Michael said something similar recently about it taking more than just money to happily own one of these cars. Something more valuable than money that is. Time, interest, passion, perseverance, stubbornness, individuality or some combination of those.

Now here's things from my perspective: The heart I put forth to wanting to learn about this car I think is something I don't need to go into detail about. I don't think many kids at 17 and 19 were making road trips to DCS and again this year at 21. I'm a person who learns from experience and I've been grateful enough to have those in my DeLorean community teach me things and point me in the right direction. I hope to one day pass that information on to my children and have them enjoy the car in their own special way such as I did. No matter which way I decide to get my car, I know there's a world of work that will catch up with me sooner or later. My best approach I believed to be is to find a car within $30-40k as most completed cars are around that price and manage each problem(s) as they come.

The DeLorean is a very emotional thing to me from a personal and design perspective. We as humans do tend to act on emotion, but I do try to keep the real world in mind. That is why I am taking caution and time with this search. If the money doesn't work, I will wait. If the car doesn't work, I will wait. I have as much patience as the car will need to have the fiances and mechanics match as best they can.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I had to wait till I was 55 years old to get my car. With my daughter working and married and my son in his last year of collage that was when I could afford to get my car. I'm glad I made the move than because cars were $15 to $20 K.

I would not think prices will drop. But think of it this way. You will be able to sell your car for at least what you paid for it so you really have your dream car that will only cost you maintenance cost.

[Shep]

You have your head and heart in an amazing and right place kid. Wow, I don't think I've ever seen a prospective buyer with so much controlled enthusiasm since, well, ever really. I am highly impressed.

All I can say here is: don't rush the purchase itself. If you see one you like, we can comb over it with a fine tooth comb, both remotely (pics) and locally, and you'll have a VERY informed purchase. Not like mine, which basically required a full resto on top of way too high "running" pricing. But I wouldn't trade it for the world.

Also a tip: DeLoreans are dude magnets, not chick magnets, so don't expect many females to be interested. (With Michael being the exception -- did you see his hood alignment recently?) That said, I got married after I bought mine, and it was our wedding limo, so don't give up! (Yes, bulky wedding dresses do in fact fit, amazingly enough.)

[iOutatime]

You have your head and heart in an amazing and right place kid. Wow, I don't think I've ever seen a prospective buyer with so much controlled enthusiasm since, well, ever really. I am highly impressed.

All I can say here is: don't rush the purchase itself. If you see one you like, we can comb over it with a fine tooth comb, both remotely (pics) and locally, and you'll have a VERY informed purchase. Not like mine, which basically required a full resto on top of way too high "running" pricing. But I wouldn't trade it for the world.

Also a tip: DeLoreans are dude magnets, not chick magnets, so don't expect many females to be interested. (With Michael being the exception -- did you see his hood alignment recently?) That said, I got married after I bought mine, and it was our wedding limo, so don't give up! (Yes, bulky wedding dresses do in fact fit, amazingly enough.)

You left me in "Aww" when I read your post. Thanks Shep :blush:

Names Mason btw. I've wanted the car since I was 6. My grandmother had a neighbor down the street that owned one until he passed away a few years later and the family took it. I'd see it parked out in his driveway seeing the old guy clean it. He was kind enough to let me sit in. I'd always think of it as a silver bullet, it just looked so damn cool. :biggrin: It was after seeing that car did he let me barrow his VHS copy of BTTF and then I was hooked. I figured getting into the community I'd have to prove myself that I wasn't some BTTF fanboy that just wondered in. But once you get pass the pop-quizzes, then people are quite accepting to a young guy like me.

I haven't hear about Michael's hood. I do recall at DCS 2016 in Springfield that someone had some girl sit on his hood, he found her on social media and she had it as her Facebook banner. She left a dent in it and I heard most people kindly messaged her how bad it was for the hood and not to do it without permission. She kept the banner, but tried blocking everyone who messaged her. As a Millennial, I apologize for our lack of common courtesy.

There is a car... actually two cars that I have in mind. One with some miles and one with a brand new engine. Both are in my price range... I'm not even joking. I wouldn't mind posting them here, but for the sake of privacy, I don't want to put anyone out there (plus you never show your cards in a game of poker :wink:). I would like to get the communities thoughts though. I can PM them to you if you'd like to look?

[SS Spoiler]

Marty Maier live across the river in Alton Ill.

[Shep]

Feel free to PM me!

I don't know if I'm a Millennial or a Gen X'r, somewhere in between. Born in May 1990, I have attributes of both.

BTTF for me too, I saw it and went "it's amazing how much work they put into the cars" to my Dad at the mall scene, just BS'ing the wind I think the saying goes. He goes "what do you mean?" and I went "Well the way the doors go up instead of out" and he told me "they made them like that, it's a DeLorean". Within the next probably five seconds, as he's explaining there was a company in the 80's that made it, my attention went to the famous movie line.

History had me hooked far more than the movie, but a fan of both. It does help greatly when every fill up I have someone asking me "where's the flux capacitor?" (current favorite retort: "in 1985!") as I can greatly appreciate how they came to know the car more than I did. You'll get a LOT of BTTF fans, but that's a good thing. I think without BTTF, DeLoreans would have faded from popularity and into obscurity rather quickly. Universal Studios milking the cash cow every now and then keeps fresh blood in the DeLorean ecosystem, but whether it's good fresh blood, some on here debate that.

[iOutatime]

Feel free to PM me!

I don't know if I'm a Millennial or a Gen X'r, somewhere in between. Born in May 1990, I have attributes of both.

BTTF for me too, I saw it and went "it's amazing how much work they put into the cars" to my Dad at the mall scene, just BS'ing the wind I think the saying goes. He goes "what do you mean?" and I went "Well the way the doors go up instead of out" and he told me "they made them like that, it's a DeLorean". Within the next probably five seconds, as he's explaining there was a company in the 80's that made it, my attention went to the famous movie line.

History had me hooked far more than the movie, but a fan of both. It does help greatly when every fill up I have someone asking me "where's the flux capacitor?" (current favorite retort: "in 1985!") as I can greatly appreciate how they came to know the car more than I did. You'll get a LOT of BTTF fans, but that's a good thing. I think without BTTF, DeLoreans would have faded from popularity and into obscurity rather quickly. Universal Studios milking the cash cow every now and then keeps fresh blood in the DeLorean ecosystem, but whether it's good fresh blood, some on here debate that.

Born August of '96. Like I said, I was 6 years old so once he let me what his tape, the time machine was all I could think about. I started doing my own research on the car itself when I was... 11? I think it could be good blood. You just have to plant the seed in the back of their mind that, "the car is real and one day... you can own one". That will get them hook, line, and sinker. :deedledee:

Stay on for a minute. I'll PM you the cars.

[ritztoys]

Mason, keep your focus.......school, family, future wife, personal goals. You will get that car some day, I promise.

Here's how my seed got planted. When these cars were coming into the automotive world, I thought "What a beautiful car, wait a minute, designed by an Italian, and it's made in Ireland......" (Well I'll never be able to own one) But that 'seed' was planted and growing, I just didn't know it.

My love for this car was so strong I made a R/C scale model of it using a BTTF body, that was three years before the real one came into my life.

Then I saw an ad in a local paper,' DeLorean for sale, sacrifice $$ ', I had some money saved and combined with my tax returns, it was time to buy my dream car!

I now have enjoyed my car for over 25 years, you will have that opportunity too some day...............keep watering that seed!

[Jonathan]

No worries about coming off as rude, Mason, you weren't. There are far worse things than sticking to something you believe whole heartedly in and not letting the experiences of others affect what direction you're headed.

If your heart, or gut, passionately wants one of these cars, then it'd be foolish for me or anyone else to tell you otherwise.

There is no shortage of engineers, or other technically brilliant people, on here and in the DeLorean community. Coming from my own experiences, in life and with the cars, sometimes it's better to follow your own intuitions and not think so much about things. Certainly not to try and do your thinking from the perspective of someone else, family, friend or other.

They aren't walking in your shoes, you are, and while their experiences and advice about life can be respectfully listened to, their advice doesn't need to be taken. And there's nothing rude about doing so.

[OverlandMan]

It will purely be a Spring/Summer time car and stowed away (probably at DMC MW) for the winter.


I highly suggest having a garage where you can store it and work on it when it needs maintenance and repairs. After all, it is 40 year old technology. Buying a pristine example won't necessarily mitigate the exposure to common issues that plague these cars.

I also highly recommend financing only what you must and paying cash for everything else. Different stroke for different folks, but that's my 2 cents.

I badly wanted a DeLorean when I was in college too. Patience, saving money, and an understanding wife helped me realize that dream a decade later. Good luck to you!

[Shep]

Responded by email Mason! Too much to go over in PM format, hope that's okay!

While I would agree on the garage, it is for entirely separate reasons. Seeing a 30-foot long tree branch fall on my parents' tennis court and fracture much of the concrete for the umpteenth time is a simple reminder of just how fragile a car can be by comparison. Not to mention it's a pretty valuable car compared to most cars that are street-parked, and higher theft risk. Also that door seals often go bad, and rain seeps in (an issue I would surely face a lot already if I parked outdoors).

And perhaps more simply: don't you want to work on your car when it's still pouring rain outside? Or dark? Or freezing? A garage with electrical outlets provides that capability. Lights, ambient heaters (careful where you point it!), even a fan do wonders for extending the usable work time.

On the tennis court, before anybody goes "Shep's parents must be rich!", it would barely constitute a "barn find parts car" by any standard -- they bought the property with it already in disarray, it's been unusable for 30 years by now. Net is shot, the poles for said net are more rusted than a DeLorean frame ran through every Ohio winter since manufacture, the crank mechanism froze up a decade ago, the surface is uneven, flaky, and covered in black crap, and it's sunk enough to be very unlevel. But the concrete is over a foot thick from the parts that are exposed, so that's a serious amount of energy slammed into a brick wall there.

[iOutatime]

Thank you all so much for the support and advice. I'm glad to get my friends and family's thoughts, but hearing it from owners whom have gone about acquiring their cars in different ways really sheds some light on the matter.

I haven't been posting much to my thread, but I've been keeping my eyes and ears open to any new listings that appear on the inter-webs. I've politely introduced myself to a few sellers and explained to them that I'm a young guy and in no rush to get the car. The first car I was offered met all my original requirements, but after seeing some photos and talking with the seller (whom flips cars for a living), he had a 'ghetto' DeLorean lots of soft rust under the body, hadn't driven it in almost a year, and was asking far too much for what it would take to restore it. Next, an owner of a certain black/auto DeLorean (I don't know if I should give names for privacy reasons) message me about his car. First off, I had never seen any D look that good since Matt Farah's. It had a black interior, but the whole engine was getting replaced and has had all it's work done by DPI Josh. I feel blessed just to have him message me, even after I explained myself to him. I honestly don't care if it's a black interior car, I'm willing to put up with that for the sake of the car and a new zero mile engine! He said it will be until Spring before it's ready to drive and I haven't offered a price yet. I want to make sure that I can live up to his standards and what he has put into that car.

Lastly, there has been a seller who is offering a fair price (compared to what I've seen so far) for a grey/auto with only 11k miles. He even has all the original paper work, owners manuals, window sticker, and newspaper articles too! I got to speak with him recently, and the story goes that his father brought it new back in '81. He, "walked into the dealership, kicked the tiers, and said he'd take it." He also owns a Mercedes and a BMW from the time as well. He, "was never really a car guy, but he took care of it and took it out every month to give it some exercise. He had passion for that car and saved every service record for it as well as newspaper clippings he'd come across." He passed away in 2014 and passed it to his son, who he and his son have no real need for as it's taking up space in the garage and would like to see it go to a good home.

I told him I would want to come out and see the car this Spring Break (March 11-17), but he is out in Maryland. I told him I would probably fly or drive down there, but I would also prefer a seasoned veteran to scope out the car as well. He says he "had someone check the car and offer him $25k for it", but turned it down as he felt he could get more for it. Flying a round trip there and back to St. Louis is $400+ and driving by myself will be about 13 hours. I would still like to go and I don't need someone to be down there with me at the same time, but it would be nice to have an intermediate to communicate what will need to be done with the car while I'm there. He's driven it a for a bit since his dad's passing 4 years ago, so I don't think there was any fluids left in the car while it sat. The car has everything stock from what I can tell, and I know the first thing I'm gonna do is get stainless gas lines and a reservoir, but I know there are many other things that could be wrong. Both me and him seem fine with taking our time with this and he seems glad a young guy like me has so much passion for the car (even dropped a few knowledge bombs on him while on the phone lol).

This is the car I would like to pursue at this time. I don't think its ever been cataloged online, but the VIN is 05742. Perhaps someone on here has already checked it out? If anyone knows someone is in the Maryland area, please send them my way. If anyone would like to see photos, here's an album: https://imgur.com/a/qsBHE

Hope to hear back from someone soon and everyone have a blessed day. Finger's crossed this ones a keeper... :)

[Shep]

Just checking, did my email come through on your end? Hoping it didn't hit any spam filters. Good to hear an update, but I've had issues recently and it's always good to know for my own sanity.

Interesting that the windshield VIN plate is painted black that late into production, I thought they were unpainted by the 700's from what I was told, I've never really stopped to check. I always wondered how you guys with later cars put up with the extra glare from it too. Anyone know if there's a cutoff point, or if all of production is like that?

Although that story om the Maryland car sounds all too familiar... where have I heard it before? Caretaker passes, son takes possession, sells a few years later, thinks he can get more for it...

Oh yeah... my car :mecry:

You're going to want to test drive. Period, don't leave anything to chance, it's an easy precaution to spot pressing problems, and will give you a great feel for how it handles too. Having a Russian tow truck driver named Vlad call you halfway across the country and say in broken English "it's smoking" is not something you want to have happen to you. I swear it took me thirty times to understand "bad gas" with his thick accent and background wind noise.

(I was very much still on the pain killers for my wisdom teeth removal when all that happened by the way, there's a reason my specific purchase was so sudden and largely stupidly executed -- it does make for great "don't do what I did" advice though)

[iOutatime]

Just checking, did my email come through on your end? Hoping it didn't hit any spam filters. Good to hear an update, but I've had issues recently and it's always good to know for my own sanity.

Interesting that the windshield VIN plate is painted black that late into production, I thought they were unpainted by the 700's from what I was told, I've never really stopped to check. I always wondered how you guys with later cars put up with the extra glare from it too. Anyone know if there's a cutoff point, or if all of production is like that?

Although that story om the Maryland car sounds all too familiar... where have I heard it before? Caretaker passes, son takes possession, sells a few years later, thinks he can get more for it...

Oh yeah... my car :mecry:

You're going to want to test drive. Period, don't leave anything to chance, it's an easy precaution to spot pressing problems, and will give you a great feel for how it handles too. Having a Russian tow truck driver named Vlad call you halfway across the country and say in broken English "it's smoking" is not something you want to have happen to you. I swear it took me thirty times to understand "bad gas" with his thick accent and background wind noise.

(I was very much still on the pain killers for my wisdom teeth removal when all that happened by the way, there's a reason my specific purchase was so sudden and largely stupidly executed -- it does make for great "don't do what I did" advice though)

Hey Shep! Yup. I got your email and gave it a good look through. I appreciate the inside advice as well. :wink:

Update about that Maryland DeLorean. The guy sent me more photos of the engine and under body I requested and the frame seems pretty good. I've added the new photos to the Imgur album here if you wanna look: https://imgur.com/a/qsBHE
We've set a date to meet up. I've booked a flight out to visit him on March 14. Arrive at 11:20am and have a flight scheduled to leave at 5:30pm the same day. Hopefully the weather can be nice for just that one day. He says its never been out in the rain or snow and the pictures seem pretty nice.

Big question is: What would you recommend I focus on when inspecting the car for myself? I was going to go over the things I would need to do to the car when I meet with him like LEDs, stainless gas lines, etc.., but I'm sure there are many things that would go over my head. Like checking the torsion bar or signs of leaks. And god forbid if there's a cesspool of junk sitting in the 'Valley of Death'. If anyone else can think of suggestions, PLEASE throw them out!

[OverlandMan]

, but after seeing some photos and talking with the seller (whom flips cars for a living), he had a 'ghetto' DeLorean lots of soft rust under the body,

What do you mean "soft rust under the body"? The panels are stainless and the underbody is fiberglass. Did you mean the frame?



Big question is: What would you recommend I focus on when inspecting the car for myself? I was going to go over the things I would need to do to the car when I meet with him like LEDs, stainless gas lines, etc.., but I'm sure there are many things that would go over my head. Like checking the torsion bar or signs of leaks. And god forbid if there's a cesspool of junk sitting in the 'Valley of Death'. If anyone else can think of suggestions, PLEASE throw them out!


Have you already read James Espy's book The Illustrated Buyers Guide to DeLorean Automobiles? I would recommend that as a reference on what all to look for when inspecting a car. From my experience, the following items/areas should be properly sorted:


fuel system - some components are pricey and the stock Bosch K-Jet system doesn't like to sit for long periods of time
frame rust - these cars usually rust in the same places so look for trouble before purchasing
trailing arm bolts - you'll want to inspect these before doing any significant driving
lower control arms - also need inspecting
electrical gremlins - aside from cooling fan recalls, make sure this area is sorted. inspect the fuse box for melting and wires for discoloration. also look for PO wire hacking
interior trim - the interior pieces are expensive and some NLA and/or very hard to find
transmission - IIR, you're looking for an auto so make sure you drive it and ensure it drives and shifts normally
engine - check for the usual (any kinds of smoke from the exhaust, leaks, etc.)


That's really just a starting point. I'm sure I'm omitting some things. Read that book if you haven't already. I wouldn't worry too much about the torsion bars unless there's something obviously wrong. As for the VOD, that's going to be pretty much impossible to inspect without taking a bunch of stuff apart. You might be able to sneak a camera down in there somehow but I wouldn't be able to tell you how. For me personally, the fuel system was always my pain point (replacing components, buying special tools, adjusting dwell, starting issues, and so on).

[Shep]

Don't go over mods with a seller. Let them think you'll keep it a time capsule and not touch a single item. This is just global major purchase advice. Cars, houses, boats, etc.

If those fuel lines aren't stainless, find out what they are. If he says rubber, buy a set of stainless ones and bring it with you, you don't want to lose the car to a fuel fire on its maiden voyage. Just drive it to a nearby convenience store or something, park around back, do the swap. Easy peace of mind. It's not going to blow up in the first few miles. Travel a couple hundred across states though by an owner that never got it up to temp... you'd be surprised how quickly gasoline evaporates to put it that way.

Can you check torsion bars? Usually struts fail every so often and require replacement. Torsion bars rarely fail, and when they do, they go boom. Big boom -- it's constant tension, after all. If the doors are struggling to stay open on their own, it's the struts 99 times out of 100. That's about as regular maintenance as an oil change, just less frequent, for colder climates like Ohio.

Forgot to mention: never, EVER trust a car flipper with DeLorean anything period. They don't know shit about DeLoreans and that's how they make money. So that guy that said he had two, don't trust anything he sells, you will run into so many problems, I can't count how many friends and family get screwed by those guys. The only one I trust around here emphasizes a short-term warranty for the cars to say if something happens, you oay a deductible, they pay the rest. Personally netted about $4,000 for a Civic transmission failure across three cars through them.

Also remember, if someone sees sentimental value in the car, you may not be able to get a close up look at the car yourself without him upping the price (which he's already warned you of -- "I think I can get higher" if I read right). If you view it from the mechanical side, might run into a price jump, be careful with how obvious you're being around it.

But also keep in mind, if it's a low mile car, and it was taken care of properly for those miles, the issues I faced you won't. Mine sat for probably 3-5 years before coming my way, and had so many issues therein it was honestly cheaper (and safer) to gut it and start fresh with damn near everything. It was a "while you have everything apart" type of deal, which this last round at DPI is accomplishing too. I'm just glad I paid upfront when I still had a job and also did so when Josh thought it was way less work. Saving a TON on labor by a miscalculation!

[iOutatime]

Don't go over mods with a seller. Let them think you'll keep it a time capsule and not touch a single item. This is just global major purchase advice. Cars, houses, boats, etc.

If those fuel lines aren't stainless, find out what they are. If he says rubber, buy a set of stainless ones and bring it with you, you don't want to lose the car to a fuel fire on its maiden voyage. Just drive it to a nearby convenience store or something, park around back, do the swap. Easy peace of mind. It's not going to blow up in the first few miles. Travel a couple hundred across states though by an owner that never got it up to temp... you'd be surprised how quickly gasoline evaporates to put it that way.

He says that he or his dad have never done anything with the car besides general maintenance, so I assume they would be the stock rubber lines. I'm not driving the car home yet until the weather clears up sometime in May or June. I'll just be going down there to test drive and inspect it, but when I do drive it home, I'll definitely be sure to do the swap. I think the most I'll do with the car is drive it in the suburbs and highway if possible as a stress test.


Forgot to mention: never, EVER trust a car flipper with DeLorean anything period. They don't know shit about DeLoreans and that's how they make money. So that guy that said he had two, don't trust anything he sells, you will run into so many problems, I can't count how many friends and family get screwed by those guys. The only one I trust around here emphasizes a short-term warranty for the cars to say if something happens, you oay a deductible, they pay the rest. Personally netted about $4,000 for a Civic transmission failure across three cars through them.

The car flipper guy always seemed a little off to me. It wasn't until he sent me pictures of the car in it's current condition did I decide to look elsewhere. He never had two DeLoreans, he said this was his first and only had it for about a year. The only three sellers I've been in contact so far are him, the perfect DPI car, and this Maryland car.


Also remember, if someone sees sentimental value in the car, you may not be able to get a close up look at the car yourself without him upping the price (which he's already warned you of -- "I think I can get higher" if I read right). If you view it from the mechanical side, might run into a price jump, be careful with how obvious you're being around it.

But also keep in mind, if it's a low mile car, and it was taken care of properly for those miles, the issues I faced you won't. Mine sat for probably 3-5 years before coming my way, and had so many issues therein it was honestly cheaper (and safer) to gut it and start fresh with damn near everything. It was a "while you have everything apart" type of deal, which this last round at DPI is accomplishing too. I'm just glad I paid upfront when I still had a job and also did so when Josh thought it was way less work. Saving a TON on labor by a miscalculation!

When he said someone came out to inspect it, they gave him an offer of $25k and he felt his $35k offer was fair. While talking to him on the phone and explaining my position from where I stand, I mentioned preferring it around $30k as to upkeep the car from where it currently stands and even possibly use that money to transport it across states. He didn't say no to the idea... but he also didn't acknowledge it. Hopefully I've planted the seed :wink:

When I go to meet him, I'll be sure not to mention mods or upgrades. Hell, in a perfect world, I would like to keep everything as a time capsule. He even has all that paperwork so why not pitch it as keeping the car in mint condition. I just need to be able to hold a conversation with him when around the car and I don't know what to bring up. I could probably ask him again about his dad and the history of the car, but I don't want him getting sentimental over it. I could just go out there have fun and be casual, but I don't want him to think I'm just some kid wasting his time. I'm trying to figure out that right balance of kindness and positivity with seriousness and professionalism.

I want to leave him feeling as impressed as you did Shep when you first replied to my post, knowing that I have my head and heart in the right place..

[iOutatime]

What do you mean "soft rust under the body"? The panels are stainless and the underbody is fiberglass. Did you mean the frame?

Yes, I was referring to the frame. My apologies.


Have you already read James Espy's book The Illustrated Buyers Guide to DeLorean Automobiles? I would recommend that as a reference on what all to look for when inspecting a car. From my experience, the following items/areas should be properly sorted:


fuel system - some components are pricey and the stock Bosch K-Jet system doesn't like to sit for long periods of time
frame rust - these cars usually rust in the same places so look for trouble before purchasing
trailing arm bolts - you'll want to inspect these before doing any significant driving
lower control arms - also need inspecting
electrical gremlins - aside from cooling fan recalls, make sure this area is sorted. inspect the fuse box for melting and wires for discoloration. also look for PO wire hacking
interior trim - the interior pieces are expensive and some NLA and/or very hard to find
transmission - IIR, you're looking for an auto so make sure you drive it and ensure it drives and shifts normally
engine - check for the usual (any kinds of smoke from the exhaust, leaks, etc.)


That's really just a starting point. I'm sure I'm omitting some things. Read that book if you haven't already. I wouldn't worry too much about the torsion bars unless there's something obviously wrong. As for the VOD, that's going to be pretty much impossible to inspect without taking a bunch of stuff apart. You might be able to sneak a camera down in there somehow but I wouldn't be able to tell you how. For me personally, the fuel system was always my pain point (replacing components, buying special tools, adjusting dwell, starting issues, and so on).

I have read a good portion of the book while I was up at DMC MW. I should have brought a copy while up there, but I've been meaning to do it for awhile now. Nows a good a time as any, so it's off to Amazon I go! :burnout:

In the meantime, would you mind elaborating on some of those points? Do you have any photos, videos or references I could look for online? I've a very visual person, so if I know what to look for, I'll keep my eyes peeled.

[OverlandMan]

Yes, I was referring to the frame. My apologies.

I have read a good portion of the book while I was up at DMC MW. I should have brought a copy while up there, but I've been meaning to do it for awhile now. Nows a good a time as any, so it's off to Amazon I go! :burnout:

In the meantime, would you mind elaborating on some of those points? Do you have any photos, videos or references I could look for online? I've a very visual person, so if I know what to look for, I'll keep my eyes peeled.

Here's additional details to the best of my knowledge & experience:


fuel system - if your prospective car has not been modified and is running the stock Bosch K-Jetronic fuel system, the first thing I would do is get a service manual. https://store.delorean.com/p-9201-workshop-manual.aspx In here, you're going to find details and procedures on how to work on the entire car including the fuel system. The fuel system in these cars uses a continuous flow mechanical injection system, which is not EFI like modern fuel injection. There are many components to the system which are necessary to perform specific functions (ie: cold starting, holding rest pressure, adjusting mixture during warm-up, etc.). The system also uses relatively high pressure so it is extremely important to ensure all components are leak-free. If the car still has its original fuel lines installed, this should be addressed immediately for safety sake. I had an minor engine fire and can speak first hand to this topic. This fuel system does not like to sit and was never designed with Ethanol in mind. If the car has been sitting for any significant period of time, you should not attempt to start the car prior to taking some things apart and servicing/replacing where needed. If a mixture adjustment is necessary, a special tool called a dwell meter is required. Any time you undo a connection, it is necessary to replace the copper crush washers before reconnecting. Finally, some of the fuel system components are not cheap. Here are some examples: fuel distributor $400-$500, Warm-up-regulator $200+, Fuel line set $300, DMCH fuel pump & sender $400+, and so on. I put over $2k into my fuel system. There's plenty of information on all of these topics here on this forum if you search around.
frame rust - my car was/is rust free on the frame so I never had to deal with this but from the pics and stories I've seen, the most common rust point is the engine cradle area, specifically internally where the tow hooks are welded.
trailing arm bolts (TABs) - the original TABs will bend and eventually break over time with use. These are on the rear suspension where the trailing arm attaches to the frame. You can't really inspect these without taking them off. This is just one of those jobs you need to prepare yourself for.
lower control arms (LCAs) - the original LCAs are made from thin-ish steel, which can bend and break over time and use. You can inspect these for damage pretty easily by looking under the front of the car on both sides.
electrical gremlins - ever heard of "Lucas"? They're a British automotive electrics manufacturer responsible for many of the switches, wires, breakers, and controls in our cars. They're not exactly known for their reliability. In addition, the cooling fan system was a factory recall, which many owners have since improved upon the recall. You can inspect the relays behind the passenger seat to see if this has been addressed.
interior trim - the insides of our cars are very special and most if not all of the trim pieces are not being reproduced. As a result, if anything is sub-par on the prospective car inside, you'll have to hunt down used trim pieces. Occasionally someone makes a run of repro trim parts. Some of the more expensive trim parts include the binnacle $400-$500, reproduction molded carpet set $800, & seat covers $700.
transmission - I have an automatic and have not had any issues, yet; however, my car has not seen many miles in the past few years due to repairs. Based on context clues from this site and other resources, it would seem the auto transmission is a bit more fragile than the manual-shift gearbox. I believe the most common failure is the shift computer governor, which you can read more about here: http://support.delorean.com/kb/a69/automatic-transmission-shifting.aspx
engine - nothing really specific to the DeLorean here except maybe noting the odd-fire configuration being outside the norm. White smoke means coolant in the combustion chamber. Blue smoke means its burning oil in the combustion chamber. Black smoke and running like crap means its running too rich. These aluminum PRV engines do have occasional issues with block rot on the top of the block in the VOD. The symptoms are going to be losing oil through the rot hole(s). Depending on the severity, the VOD may eventually spill over and onto the ground below. Coolant buildup in this area is relatively common over time and not a huge concern unless there is a significant leak. Most owners clean their VODs one or more times during their stewardship.


Again, do a search here on any or all of these topics and you'll find pics and additional information to assist you with your pre-purchase inspection. If you have another owner close by, I would recommend buying he/she some beer and food and taking them along to help out. If you were in the Dallas area, I would help you in-person.

Buy that book and a service manual if you're serious about buying one of these cars.

[Shep]

Adding to points above (all very good ones by the way!)

Automatic transmission: I know DPI sells a new reproduction transmission governor, typically a failure of it would make it shift very strangely. If you see RPM's not at all match speed in a very strange manner (as an example, redline at 2 MPH dropping to idle at 5 MPH from a stop light), transmission reauires a rebuild and valve body usually also needs work. I say this with two cars' worth of experience in failures, the second of which is my DeLorean. (We tried to avoid cleaning the valve body at the time as the weather was amazing and I was horribly impatient. Still worth it.) It feels like what you would expect to see if you were in a stickshift and somebody was dicking with the clutch. It's a very odd experience, but the engine responds normally throughout (remember that when the car finally "catches", RPM's will drop due to load, not to it being an engine problem).

Frame rust, that car flipper's frame was around the left tow hook as I spotted before, but another area to be VERY careful of is the suspension mounts around the engine. Sometimes rust will be patched insufficiently down below only for it to creep up above. I have seen some nasty rust in that area, holes in the frame even, and it supposedly "drives just fine". For now, anyways...

If there's one thing visits to DPI have taught me, it's how DeLoreans met their end in ways that could have been prevented. On one total loss, the top of the shock tower had a rust hole big enough for two or three fingers to fit through on one, DPI told the guy he would not work on it unless he was able to repair it. Didn't even make it to the highway before busting the shock absorber through the frame at that railroad crossing, I think even through the fiberglass as well. Combine that with undercarriage damage like mad from scraping, and a "daily driver" insurance value, it was a goner. (In the owner's defense however, that particular crossing from DPI to I-76 is one hell of a bump, even the big rigs go over it at 2 MPH, and I myself hate it in ANY car.)

Seat covers are available readily, just to clarify that part, upholstery shops can easily do it and will. Vendors work with you on fabric selection and color. Other parts, guess I haven't been here long enough to see a reproduction interior part, but that one's on my radar to tackle under Raccin. It's why Raccin is here, if no one else will do it, I will. Don't expect any timely manner though, I just finished moving yesterday and now need to find where I put all my projects. Not to mention 2-3 years and only now tangible results on one smaller item.

LCA, I have damaged ones if you want pics of what a bent-out-of-shape one looks like. I have a lot of failed parts from my own car I'm sitting on waiting for someone to need it, occasionally I find someone and sell it to them. This is in that category, but it's also good for reference pics.

Fuel system, you haven't run into this yet, but wait till you see a carb or an EFI! These guys can be religious about it, but not always (I'm DPI brand EFI now and agnostic :p ), sometimes coming along with engine swaps (I think the DeLorean was a rare one to use the mess that is K-Jet), but those have dedicated sub-forums somewhere here for them.

[iOutatime]

Adding to points above (all very good ones by the way!)

Automatic transmission: I know DPI sells a new reproduction transmission governor, typically a failure of it would make it shift very strangely. If you see RPM's not at all match speed in a very strange manner (as an example, redline at 2 MPH dropping to idle at 5 MPH from a stop light), transmission reauires a rebuild and valve body usually also needs work. I say this with two cars' worth of experience in failures, the second of which is my DeLorean. (We tried to avoid cleaning the valve body at the time as the weather was amazing and I was horribly impatient. Still worth it.) It feels like what you would expect to see if you were in a stickshift and somebody was dicking with the clutch. It's a very odd experience, but the engine responds normally throughout (remember that when the car finally "catches", RPM's will drop due to load, not to it being an engine problem).

Frame rust, that car flipper's frame was around the left tow hook as I spotted before, but another area to be VERY careful of is the suspension mounts around the engine. Sometimes rust will be patched insufficiently down below only for it to creep up above. I have seen some nasty rust in that area, holes in the frame even, and it supposedly "drives just fine". For now, anyways...

If there's one thing visits to DPI have taught me, it's how DeLoreans met their end in ways that could have been prevented. On one total loss, the top of the shock tower had a rust hole big enough for two or three fingers to fit through on one, DPI told the guy he would not work on it unless he was able to repair it. Didn't even make it to the highway before busting the shock absorber through the frame at that railroad crossing, I think even through the fiberglass as well. Combine that with undercarriage damage like mad from scraping, and a "daily driver" insurance value, it was a goner. (In the owner's defense however, that particular crossing from DPI to I-76 is one hell of a bump, even the big rigs go over it at 2 MPH, and I myself hate it in ANY car.)

Seat covers are available readily, just to clarify that part, upholstery shops can easily do it and will. Vendors work with you on fabric selection and color. Other parts, guess I haven't been here long enough to see a reproduction interior part, but that one's on my radar to tackle under Raccin. It's why Raccin is here, if no one else will do it, I will. Don't expect any timely manner though, I just finished moving yesterday and now need to find where I put all my projects. Not to mention 2-3 years and only now tangible results on one smaller item.

LCA, I have damaged ones if you want pics of what a bent-out-of-shape one looks like. I have a lot of failed parts from my own car I'm sitting on waiting for someone to need it, occasionally I find someone and sell it to them. This is in that category, but it's also good for reference pics.

Fuel system, you haven't run into this yet, but wait till you see a carb or an EFI! These guys can be religious about it, but not always (I'm DPI brand EFI now and agnostic :p ), sometimes coming along with engine swaps (I think the DeLorean was a rare one to use the mess that is K-Jet), but those have dedicated sub-forums somewhere here for them.

Well the one thing I hope I don’t do is take the car around his neighborhood and then on the highway, only to have it all go up in flames or the engine drop out on me. If I mention any mods to him, it will be those gas lines. Well have to do that if I buy the car in May and drive it back across states (probably just head North a bit and stop at DPI). If you have photos of LCA or ANYTHING else Shep, Id love to take a look and study them. Add some notes if you’d like and email them to me what to watch out for.

[OverlandMan]

If I mention any mods to him, it will be those gas lines.

Replacement K-Jet fuel lines aren't really a mod but rather a maintenance item. The braided stainless sheath is just a cosmetic portion of the neoprene core below it.

[Shep]

Replacement K-Jet fuel lines aren't really a mod but rather a maintenance item. The braided stainless sheath is just a cosmetic portion of the neoprene core below it.Fuel lines are the only thing some (i.e. concours guys) consider "mods" that I would bring up with a seller. Even then, it isn't always "stainless or bust!", I thought someone had silicone lines but could be mistaken.

Maybe more straightforward approach come to think of it: ask when they were last replaced, and at what mileage. They're fairly consistent in lifespan, being rubber, but if they've been replaced recently enough, there's no real point to replacement now vs.when you get back home. Remember, these cars are from 1981, and I have seen million-mile cars that routinely swapped them out as a maintenance item (the late Jacko comes to the forefront of my mind there, that was something he did back in the day), they're not as urgent as most make it out to be. If they're rubber and recent, inspect visually for cracking.

Rubber ages just sitting, that's why the fuel lines are of the utmost importance, and tires too. My car's original tires for example are near worthless, despite having only 4,641 miles on them -- dry rotted rubber leads to cracking and it does NOT hold up to pressure. I think a concours guy offered me $45 as a generous offer once, but they would go in a stash or something, and would be tubed on the inside for safety (like bike tires or dragsters). In other words, the tires become cosmetic rather than functional.

[OverlandMan]

Fuel lines are the only thing some (i.e. concours guys) consider "mods" that I would bring up with a seller. Even then, it isn't always "stainless or bust!", I thought someone had silicone lines but could be mistaken.

Maybe more straightforward approach come to think of it: ask when they were last replaced, and at what mileage. They're fairly consistent in lifespan, being rubber, but if they've been replaced recently enough, there's no real point to replacement now vs.when you get back home. Remember, these cars are from 1981, and I have seen million-mile cars that routinely swapped them out as a maintenance item (the late Jacko comes to the forefront of my mind there, that was something he did back in the day), they're not as urgent as most make it out to be. If they're rubber and recent, inspect visually for cracking.

Rubber ages just sitting, that's why the fuel lines are of the utmost importance, and tires too. My car's original tires for example are near worthless, despite having only 4,641 miles on them -- dry rotted rubber leads to cracking and it does NOT hold up to pressure. I think a concours guy offered me $45 as a generous offer once, but they would go in a stash or something, and would be tubed on the inside for safety (like bike tires or dragsters). In other words, the tires become cosmetic rather than functional.

I had a pinhole in one of my original lines, which caused a fire. Therefore I see fuel lines as a safety-related maintenance item regardless of what concours opinions are.

[iOutatime]

Marty Maier live across the river in Alton Ill.

Sorry it took me days to reply to your post! I know Marty. I've been in his group for about 3 years now. I've been digging around and I found the group photo that I took with my phone and tripod in front of Jake's car when we all went down to Micah Fryman's place for the day. I don't think it's hard to find me. Just look for the guy under the age of 20. :rofl:

55557

(Don't worry. I cleaned his fender afterwords so there were no smudges on the car lol.)

[Jonathan]

If you have photos of LCA or ANYTHING else Shep, Id love to take a look and study them. Add some notes if you’d like and email them to me what to watch out for.

Photos and info of a variety of things here: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?10336-Assorted-helpful-technical-photos

Most Knowledge Base articles also have photos or diagrams as well: http://support.delorean.com/KB/browse.aspx

[iOutatime]

Hey y'all. I've got another car that I'm going to check out in March that's actually WAY closer to me than the Maryland one. I'm still going to Baltimore to inspect that car, but this one's much closer to home (about 4 hours) and seems to be in even better condition. Anyone in the area available to come and take a look?

[Shep]

I had a pinhole in one of my original lines, which caused a fire. Therefore I see fuel lines as a safety-related maintenance item regardless of what concours opinions are.The only two reasons period to leave it rubber are 1) for concours or 2) buying scenario where the car has rubber and it's old/rotted rubber, purely as a disposable "get me to a swappable location" part even then.

I know coolant hoses come in silicone, I thought fuel lines did too but could be wrong. If they did, you could certainly get far more use out of silicone fuel lines than stainless, and it looks more stock too being black. On a complicated buy, it would hold you over. But again, stainless isn't expensive already, I don't know that the worry is worth the cost at that point.

[Bitsyncmaster]

The only two reasons period to leave it rubber are 1) for concours or 2) buying scenario where the car has rubber and it's old/rotted rubber, purely as a disposable "get me to a swappable location" part even then.

I know coolant hoses come in silicone, I thought fuel lines did too but could be wrong. If they did, you could certainly get far more use out of silicone fuel lines than stainless, and it looks more stock too being black. On a complicated buy, it would hold you over. But again, stainless isn't expensive already, I don't know that the worry is worth the cost at that point.

The OEM rubber was just a cover over the "plastic" lines. There was someone offering real rubber lines but have not seen much about that anymore. Silicone does not work with fuel or oil.

The new lines are some sort of "plastic" so it may be a better material that lasts longer than OEM. Again the SS is just a cover.

[FABombjoy]

The KJet hoses in the engine bay appear to be PTFE. The new ones probably are as well.

The hoses at the accumulator and fuel pump seem to be a different material, some kind of more traditional rubber fuel hose. It has a reinforcement braid and the outer jacket loves to peel off.

I used flared aluminum tube and Eaton PTFE hose & fittings for my EFI setup. Not a good place to "sort by price: lowest first" :D