Bosch iBooster Retrofit

[81dmc]

Seeing as the ibooster is capable of standalone operation, I'm deciding to retrofit my car for the hell of it.

I was able to buy one from a Tesla for about $80 on ebay, so I could not resist...
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4655/39356048915_4b46fd61d9.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/22XL3cv)

So I went ahead and drilled new holes into the brake booster mounting bracket and did a test fit.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4705/39356059035_b446404020.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/22XL6cZ)
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4674/26381556468_b21386009e.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/GcfnBS)
Very tight, but it fits perfectly.

More to come, but first I need to find the connectors...

[Patrick C]

Nice work! Keep us posted!

[Josh]

This is so cool, love seeing stuff retrofitted like this to modernize the car.

[vwdmc16]

That's a neat set up.

Curious how different that will feel.

[81dmc]

After doing a bit of thinking, I came to the conclusion that some other EVs equipped with adaptive cruise must use an ibooster. Sure enough, after looking on TechAuthority, I found that the 2017 Chrysler Pacifica PHEV uses an ibooster. So now I have the pin outs and part numbers for the connectors.

For the ecu connector...
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4705/40297331812_e93f0aa658_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/24oWmNY)

For the pedal sensor connector...
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4767/38532560660_33127222c2_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21GZrQ9)

The pedal sensor connector and its pins are easily found on Mouser, as it is manufactured by TE Connectivity. The large ecu connector, however, is a Bosch part which is very difficult to find. However, after looking deeper, I was able to purchase the pins from Nexus Electronics and the housing from Aliexpress in China.

More to come once I get everything together.

[81dmc]

Just cut the bubble flares off my lines and reflared them to inverted double flares. I'm using an m10 1.00 on the line. And since the Tesla master uses m12 1.00, I ordered two adapters from ebay (https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F33 1631059832).

[81dmc]

The ibooster has been installed. The wiring is just tapped into 12v for testing, and I will eventually run everything correctly.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BlNXzb3vg9s

The hydraulics are still disconnected until this weekend. Will make another video once everything is fully functional.

[81dmc]

Well today I received the m12 to m10 adapters. I quickly installed and bled the system using Valvoline DOT 3 and 4.

Unfortunately, the 2017 Chevy Volt reservoir is just a tad too tall. So either I will modify the access cover, or I will remote mount a reservoir using an adapter from a Honda CR-V.

Here's a couple pics of it installed. The wiring is only temporary, as the connector housing has not shipped yet from China.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4668/39552318845_3aabeda6c9_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/23g6YpP)
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4631/40448548911_f192f7064c_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/24Ciook)

Now when it comes to the feel, all I can say is WOW! With everything together, the car now brakes as effortlessly as a modern sports car. No hard pedal. No jamming brakes in emergency situations. And this is all with the original calipers...

Here's a poorly made video of an emergency braking test.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hQCT059Rckk

[powerline84]

Dude this is badass....someday when my completely brand new brake system needs returbed I may go this route.

[oudevolvo]

The pedal sensor connector and its pins are easily found on Mouser, as it is manufactured by TE Connectivity. The large ecu connector, however, is a Bosch part which is very difficult to find. However, after looking deeper, I was able to purchase the pins from Nexus Electronics and the housing from Aliexpress in China.
More to come once I get everything together.
Wow, great job, impressive. Thanks for sharing. Now I want this in my Volvo Amazon too. Hope you can help me out by sharing some more details.
What is the part number of the big ECU connector or perhaps even, do you have the links for purchasing the housing and crimp pins?
Thanks in advance.

[81dmc]

Wow, great job, impressive. Thanks for sharing. Now I want this in my Volvo Amazon too. Hope you can help me out by sharing some more details.
What is the part number of the big ECU connector or perhaps even, do you have the links for purchasing the housing and crimp pins?
Thanks in advance.

No problem! Here's the info I gave to another asking the same question via PM.




Midsize pin for connector This pin needs to be trimmed to fit. I couldn't find the correct one.:
https://m.ebay.com/itm/Bosch-BDK-2-8...S/132378925515


Large pin for connector:
https://nexelec.com/BOSCH-1928498807/


Small pin for connector:
https://nexelec.com/BOSCH-1928498705/


And finally, the connector:
https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32706325552.html

[jangell]

This is really cool. I'd also like to do it at some point, but I have a few questions:

Did you wind up sticking with the Chevy Volt reservoir, or going with another solution?

You said you re-flared the brake lines. I'm curious what is involved with that, or if you could just get adaptors (I mean, since you had to get M10 to M12 adaptors anyway...).

Do the stock brake lines happen to reach the iBooster as-is, or did you have to fabricate them to get them to where they needed to be?

I'm also wondering about the pedal travel sensor; what did you do for that? I see you mentioned the connector, but I don't see anything about the sensor itself.

I'm also curious about how you wired the connector to the car. It looks like the four wires for the travel sensor, and I guess all the "Fused B+" wires go to 12v, and the two ground wires to ground... and that's it? I assume the ignition control/start is to make sure your foot is on the brake when you start the car, similar to the start inhibit relay on automatic DMCs. And the rest looks like CANbus pins.

Thanks!

-- Joe

[jangell]

Responding to myself: I googled re-flaring and found out that double flare kits are inexpensive, and that it's pretty easy to bend brake line into whatever shape you need, as long as you're careful not to crease them or to bend them so far that they tear open. So that answers that bit. :)

-- Joe

[81dmc]

This is really cool. I'd also like to do it at some point, but I have a few questions:

Did you wind up sticking with the Chevy Volt reservoir, or going with another solution?
I stuck with it for now, but it is unfortunately too tall. If I can eventually get my hands on a reservoir from a model 3, I will change it to that. (It is lower profile)



You said you re-flared the brake lines. I'm curious what is involved with that, or if you could just get adaptors (I mean, since you had to get M10 to M12 adaptors anyway...). AFAIK, no one sells the necessary adapter to avoid reflare. Only way is the double flare and use the m10 to m12 adapter.



Do the stock brake lines happen to reach the iBooster as-is, or did you have to fabricate them to get them to where they needed to be? I replaced the front brake line that comes from the tee fitting because it is accessible. As for the rear, I reused it, but it is tight! At least too much for my comfort. Going to replace that when I lift the body for the engine swap...



I'm also wondering about the pedal travel sensor; what did you do for that? I see you mentioned the connector, but I don't see anything about the sensor itself. The travel sensor is integrated into the booster. You just have to wire it up to the big connector.



I'm also curious about how you wired the connector to the car. It looks like the four wires for the travel sensor, and I guess all the "Fused B+" wires go to 12v, and the two ground wires to ground... and that's it? I assume the ignition control/start is to make sure your foot is on the brake when you start the car, similar to the start inhibit relay on automatic DMCs. And the rest looks like CANbus pins. All fused b+ pin are for 12v constant. The "run/start control output" is the 12v switched output wire from the ignition switch. I recommend using the run position 12v output. Chryslers diagrams have a weird name for switched 12v...

[oudevolvo]

No problem! Here's the info I gave to another asking the same question via PM.
Thanks! I managed to get my hands on an iBooster with the original ECU connector still attached.
That one has part number 1928405762
If anyone is interested, here is the datasheet for that family
https://gs-gsconnector-us.resource.bosch.com/media/1928A00508.pdf
There appear to be three types:
57711
Looking at those images the key-ing on the side is different.
So actually I'm quite surprised the 1928405763 from Aliexpress actually fits.
Good to hear that it does!

[81dmc]

I know other vehicles have different keying, but the connector found on Aliexpress will work for sure with the Gen 1 Tesla ibooster.

[jangell]

I stuck with it for now, but it is unfortunately too tall. If I can eventually get my hands on a reservoir from a model 3, I will change it to that. (It is lower profile)

Cool, good to know.


AFAIK, no one sells the necessary adapter to avoid reflare. Only way is the double flare and use the m10 to m12 adapter.

No problem -- I didn't realize how common and straight-forward reflaring is. Doesn't seem like much of a problem.


I replaced the front brake line that comes from the tee fitting because it is accessible. As for the rear, I reused it, but it is tight! At least too much for my comfort. Going to replace that when I lift the body for the engine swap...

I need to redo my brakes more fully at some point (weird thing where the first press of the pedal is soft, but works, and the next press is hard; after ~20 seconds of driving again, it resets and does the soft-then-hard thing again), so I was thinking of installing the iBooster at the same time.

I guess that rear line runs between the body and the frame? That sounds like fun... And I just replaced my A/C lines, too.

But the real question now is how you found an iBooster for $80 :) -- the ones I see on eBay are in the $700 range. It seems these are only used on the autopilot-capable Teslas, and a simpler (but larger) $200 one is used on basic package.


The travel sensor is integrated into the booster. You just have to wire it up to the big connector.

Ah, I see -- I'm guessing those wires were probably part of a larger Tesla harness, which is why it wasn't included with the booster. Makes sense. I was surprised it wasn't wired internally until I realized they literally just took two off-the-shelf parts and combined them into the same package.


All fused b+ pin are for 12v constant. The "run/start control output" is the 12v switched output wire from the ignition switch. I recommend using the run position 12v output. Chryslers diagrams have a weird name for switched 12v...

The "output" name threw me off for the switched 12v. I guess the 12v constant is so that you get the booster even if the car is off, and the switched tells it that it can do more active communication over CANbus or whatever.

The pinout looked complicated at a glance, but it sounds like it's actually rather simple. I'm guessing all the "fused b+" pins are just to get enough current for the electric motor over the normally thin wires.

Thanks!

-- Joe

[oudevolvo]

An update from my end. Off topic, please let me know if you mind, then I'll delete my update.
I managed to install the iBooster in my car.
58222

I do have a question as well. How did you implement the brakelines? What layout do you use?
I've been told that the Tesla Model S master cylinder might step down in diameter for the rear, which leads my source to believe they use a Front/Rear circuit split (rather than X-split).

[Robmac123]

It certainly looks like a neat solution. I'm curious about the fluid volume and balance of the master cylinder front to rear. It looks like the master cylinder is part of the iBooster so I wondered if it is adjustable for front to rear bias anyhow and how the volume of fluid it moves would 'fit' the Delorean's calipers.
Master cylinders aren't generally regarded as universal fit items, as far as I'm aware, and I'm assuming that the Delorean would need a different front to rear bias to a Tesla or to a normal front engined car (I don't know what the weight distribution is in a Tesla).
I just wondered if the front brakes would tend to lock up when used in a Delorean due to having so little weight up front, if the iBooster is delivering the same front/rear bias as it does in the donor Tesla ?

[81dmc]

An update from my end. Off topic, please let me know if you mind, then I'll delete my update.
I managed to install the iBooster in my car.
58222

I do have a question as well. How did you implement the brakelines? What layout do you use?
I've been told that the Tesla Model S master cylinder might step down in diameter for the rear, which leads my source to believe they use a Front/Rear circuit split (rather than X-split).
Works fine as a front/rear split system. No idea what the Tesla uses. I believe there is no diameter change however. It really feels like a 50/50 system from road experience. The fittings on the master are M12 inverted flare. If you have smaller brake lines that use an m10 nut, buy the adapter that I used (m10 inverted flare to m12 inverted flare). I had to reflare my bubble flare lines, but it was well worth it.


It certainly looks like a neat solution. I'm curious about the fluid volume and balance of the master cylinder front to rear. It looks like the master cylinder is part of the iBooster so I wondered if it is adjustable for front to rear bias anyhow and how the volume of fluid it moves would 'fit' the Delorean's calipers.
Master cylinders aren't generally regarded as universal fit items, as far as I'm aware, and I'm assuming that the Delorean would need a different front to rear bias to a Tesla or to a normal front engined car (I don't know what the weight distribution is in a Tesla).
I just wondered if the front brakes would tend to lock up when used in a Delorean due to having so little weight up front, if the iBooster is delivering the same front/rear bias as it does in the donor Tesla ?
Master cylinder is not part of the ibooster assembly. It is just a new design from bosch. I've seen them coupled with vacuum boosters too. No adjustment, unless you want to mount a bias block.

However, from my experience driving my car, the combo feels great with stock calipers. The front doesn't really lock up sooner than the rear (tested on wet roads), and the car is an absolute pleasure to drive in the city now. My leg is no longer in pain after awhile.

I mean, you could argue that the fluid volumes aren't perfect, but then again what is? These cars are engineering headaches in stock form!:)

[Robmac123]

Sounds like it's worked well. I would have expected issues with the bias.

[Gadget]

Hi guys, thank you all for the information shared in this tread. I'd like to ask some questions for those who may be able to answer.

Has anyone hooked their iBooster brake assist up so as they have assist without engine running? Or were you concerned about flattening battery?
Is anyone able to confirm the Amperage of the iBooster? And is this current draw closer to linear or exponential as pedal is depressed?? - And/Or relative to torque effort on the pedal/master cylinder??

Does anyone know if there is software or a means of re-mapping the pedal assist available to us? Obviously the manufacturer of car/model that the iBooster each of us has used will be different in several ways and the iBooster and the assist will be different as a result of the parameters set. Some Tesla's were recalled recently due to poor braking performance and the iBooster's were re-mapped to correct this at the expense of a little reclaimed momentum to recharge their batteries; however, this process might only be hands-on access for Bosch employees and Car manufacturer's technicians at the moment.

I am thinking about purchasing a generation 2 iBooster as the brake assist is higher, the unit is lighter and the different shape/dimensions are still suitable to my particular chassis. I noted recently that the generation 2 iBooster appears to use a different 4 pin plug, but the larger of the two appears to be the same.
Does anyone have any experience or remarks on the generation 2 unit? I'm assuming it function just the same in 'standalone' or 'fail-safe' mode as has been pointed out here.

I'm wondering if anyone has confirmed the terminals and connector part numbers for the generation 2 iBooster? That would be excellent.
What about a visual pinout out of the main and 4 pin connectors? Any recommendations for wire sizes for particular terminals??

Any info greatly appreciated, these iBoosters are a real game changer!

[81dmc]

Hi guys, thank you all for the information shared in this tread. I'd like to ask some questions for those who may be able to answer.

Has anyone hooked their iBooster brake assist up so as they have assist without engine running? Or were you concerned about flattening battery?
Is anyone able to confirm the Amperage of the iBooster? And is this current draw closer to linear or exponential as pedal is depressed?? - And/Or relative to torque effort on the pedal/master cylinder??
No idea on this one, however, I would assume it is relative to the effort of the assist motor. I used the factory fuse size of 40amps just in case.



Does anyone know if there is software or a means of re-mapping the pedal assist available to us? Obviously the manufacturer of car/model that the iBooster each of us has used will be different in several ways and the iBooster and the assist will be different as a result of the parameters set. Some Tesla's were recalled recently due to poor braking performance and the iBooster's were re-mapped to correct this at the expense of a little reclaimed momentum to recharge their batteries; however, this process might only be hands-on access for Bosch employees and Car manufacturer's technicians at the moment.
Never heard of this. The only thing I've heard is a change in the amount of regenerative braking on some Tesla models. That came with version 9.0. Nothing to do with iBoosters.

Additionally, my father owns a 2016 Model X which I bring to service for him, and I have never heard of an iBooster recall.

Anyways, good luck with the Gen 2 booster!

[Gadget]

Never heard of this. The only thing I've heard is a change in the amount of regenerative braking on some Tesla models. That came with version 9.0. Nothing to do with iBoosters.

Additionally, my father owns a 2016 Model X which I bring to service for him, and I have never heard of an iBooster recall.

Anyways, good luck with the Gen 2 booster!

I came across some posts on issues with the gen 2 iBooster last night. Seems to be an internal or assembly issue with those ones.
See: https://www.driveaccord.net/forums/257-wheels-suspension-brakes/500554-2018-accord-touring-2-0-brake-pedal-noise.html
See also: https://www.carcomplaints.com/Honda/Accord/2018/brakes/service_brakes.shtml

As of the date of this post, Honda has recalled and superseded part numbers: 01469-TVA-A23; -A22; -A21; -A20. And the current part number is: 01469-TVA-A24.
See here also: http://hondapartsnetwork.com/part/9799294/Honda-Part-01469-TVA-A24-Electric-Brake-Booster-Assembly-Rewritable

Not sure if these part numbers are recorded on the iBooster gen 2 after it leaves Bosch's assembly plant; but just wanted to let you guys know in case you look at buying one online and it's a dudd!

Defiantly were issues with how the gen 1 iBooster was operating on the Tesla range; wasn't able to find specifics, because it's Telsa lol

[Gadget]

There was some confusion over the terminals required previously, so for others looking, I can confirm some details regarding the larger connector:

Bosch 026 EuCon Connector: 1 928 405 762; - 763; -764. (Check keying on your device)
1.5mm Terminals: 1 928 498 705; 1 928 498 805. (Depending on wire/insulation diameter required)
2.8mm Terminals: 1 928 498 806.
4.8mm Terminals: 1 928 498 807.

[81dmc]

There was some confusion over the terminals required previously, so for others looking, I can confirm some details regarding the larger connector:

Bosch 026 EuCon Connector: 1 928 405 762; - 763; -764. (Check keying on your device)
1.5mm Terminals: 1 928 498 705; 1 928 498 805. (Depending on wire/insulation diameter required)
2.8mm Terminals: 1 928 498 806.
4.8mm Terminals: 1 928 498 807.

We're you able to find a supplier for the 2.8 terminal?

[Gadget]

We're you able to find a supplier for the 2.8 terminal?

Yes, I will post up the info once I've received them and all is good.

Also have an alternative supplier to Alibaba for the connectors.

They need to be purchased in lots of 5/10/200; but price is not much more comparatively and they will be 100% OEM.

[oudevolvo]

I also managed to source all connectors
Nexeclec: 1928498705 (https://nexelec.com/BOSCH-1928498705/)
Misietech: 1928498806 (https://www.misietech.com/?s=1928498806)
Misietech: 1928498807 (https://www.misietech.com/?s=1928498807)
Haven't tested them yet, but I assume it works out.
Curious on what other options others might have.

Temporarily installed the iBooster in out daily driver Volvo Amazon to make sure it all works out when installing it in the one I'm converting to full electric.
Here is my whole story of testing and installing it:

Testing the Tesla iBooster power brakes (https://www.oudevolvo.nl/english/2019/01/22/testing-tesla-ibooster-power-brakes/)

After adding a residual valve (I have drums in the back), it works great.
I achieved 1,2G with hardly any pedal force.
59248

[oudevolvo]

Additionally, my father owns a 2016 Model X which I bring to service for him, and I have never heard of an iBooster recall.
Anyways, good luck with the Gen 2 booster!
There is a Service Bulletin what I found when doing research SB-10056660-3632 (https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2014/SB-10056660-3632.pdf)
It says:

The electromechanical brake booster might have been improperly operated during initial vehicle assembly. This could increase the likelihood of the brake booster entering a fail-safe mode
Was issued in October 2014.

[oudevolvo]

Has anyone hooked their iBooster brake assist up so as they have assist without engine running? Or were you concerned about flattening battery?
Is anyone able to confirm the Amperage of the iBooster? And is this current draw closer to linear or exponential as pedal is depressed?? - And/Or relative to torque effort on the pedal/master cylinder??

My iBooster gets powered as soon as I turn the ignition on.
I managed to get it drawing 14 Amps. Looks like it is more pedal force = more current.
In IDLE it draws 0,25A.
When you switch the ignition off, it continues to draw 0,25A for a short while and after that drops to 12 mA.
Tesla used the following fuses for the 12V connections:
1 = 12V permanent 40A fused
17 = 12V permanent fused 5A
20 = 12V ignition 5A fused
I started checking this after I had a flat battery and blamed the iBooster.
But I think the radio flattened the battery instead.
iBooster has now been hooked up with pin 1 and 17 permanently connected for 5 days and the battery is still OK.

[cgalpin]

Just cut the bubble flares off my lines and reflared them to inverted double flares. I'm using an m10 1.00 on the line. And since the Tesla master uses m12 1.00, I ordered two adapters from ebay (https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F33 1631059832).

Rodolfo, or anyone else needing this, I just thought I'd share that a m12 1.00 nut is available for 3/16 (4.7mm)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/201450179877

[81dmc]

Rodolfo, or anyone else needing this, I just thought I'd share that a m12 1.00 nut is available for 3/16 (4.7mm)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/201450179877

The problem with that is the internal diameter of the flare of the Tesla master. IIRC it is too big to use a 3/16 line directly. You can’t flare a 3/16 line to that size reliably.

[oudevolvo]

I've used another brake nut, also for 4.75mm (3/16") pipe.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/12mm-x-1mm-Male-Brake-Nuts-BPN20/181977286574

It has thread all the way to the end. If I remember correctly the pipe seated well.
At least I have driven it for quite a while without any leaks or issues.

[RamblinDMC]

Did you install the actual master cylinder upside down on the booster?

[81dmc]

I mounted the Model S iBooster and Master with the plug for the iBooster to be on the top.

EDIT: Actually, seeing the initial pictures of the unit as it comes from Tesla, yes. I unmounted the master from the booster and flipped it. That’s the only way for it to fit in the Delorean.

[Reinsch]

@81dmc

any chance you have more photos showing mods you did to fit ibooster to DeLorean? New or modified bracket? connection to pedal?

I'm doing engine swap (#vin4454 on Facebook) and as my stock booster and master cylinder and dead, I wanted to use some modern unit (even bought separate vacuum pump from Golf!).

However iBooster looks more appealing and used by even more OEMs so price is not that high comparing to NOS DeLorean parts!

I want to do it! Do you also have power steering?

kind regards,
Marek

[81dmc]

Let me grab some pics when I get the time.

For mounting, all I had to do is drill 4 new holes on the stock booster mounting bracket and bolt it on. Connection to pedal was achieved by buying a threaded rod, cut to size, and mount with coupler stock iBooster rod. I mounted the Tesla clevis to that rod with a bit to lock it in place. With that, the Tesla clevis will fit right up with the Delorean’s pedal.


Also no power steering for me:/

[Reinsch]

@81dmc

thanks for your quick reply!

do you get full pedal travel ? or you think there is a bit left? Can you lock wheels at higher speeds if you press it hard enough ?

thanks,
Marek

[81dmc]

Pedal travel is definitely less than stock, but that is why I even did the swap.

If you nail the pedal, yeah you can lock up. The Tesla 50-50 master performs way better than the factory master imo.

[Speedbump]

81dmc,

Congratulations for a very insightful and innovative upgrade. In one fell swoop, you solved the problems associated with vacuum and hydraulic boosters.

Your approach became even more meaningful after reading the line, the iBooster has a two-phase safety concept [which] provides a deceleration force of 0.4 g at a pedal force of 200 Newton in the Bosch whitepaper (iBooster – Vacuum-independent electromechanical brake booster).

I hope the 200 Newtons is short-hand for 200nm because I believe that would produce enough brake line pressure to stop the Crazymobile if the iBooster Master Cylinder bore is 1 inch.

If I may ask:

Your photo looked like a Gen 1 iBooster. Am I correct?
What pin-out configuration did you use to get everything working properly?
Did you retain the existing Brake Light Momentary Switch?
Do you have any measurements of the iBooster’s physical size, excluding the length of the brake pedal rod and clevis?

Tomorrow I’ll try contacting Bosch US to get some additional technical information. If I get anything, I’ll pass it on to you. But the caveat is companies often have liability concerns that frequently outweighs their desire to freely provide technical product information.

But we’ll see what happens.

[powerline84]

Time to join the club 64647


Thanks for.pavimg the way on this mod !

[Reinsch]

anybody tried iBooster gen2 from model 3/Y ?

I'm planning to fit that unit. Clearance to body is fine (checked in 3D CAD), but not so sure about frame/fuel tank as I don't have that area 3D scanned/modelled.

Anybody has good photos of stock booster when installed (frame and body on) --> how does clearance to frame look like? I have old booster and will model it. Based on that I would have some reference.

Cheers,
Marek

[powerline84]

Just based off looking at it I think you can make it work . Neither gen 1 or 2 reservoirs will clear the cover panel I don't think but I will take some measurements of my gen 1 and post on here in the next couple days. There has been some talk of a model x brake resovoir clearing the cover but no one has gotten ahold of one to try it out . Plus it looks like a donkey di#$ to me lol. I am just gonna clearance the cover to use the 2015 model s reservoir then make my own cover.

[Reinsch]

For reservoir I'm not that concerned as long as there is no clash (looking in CAD it will be fine for gen2). I can always cut new access hole/make new cover if not exactly in correct place.

My biggest worry is clearance to frame and steering column shaft. Looking on booster, it is "hanging" down more than stock booster:

64907

thanks for your help!

[CyberBill]

Which CAD models are you referring to?

I've been looking for a high quality CAD model of the DeLorean without much luck. (I've got one of the frame, but not any components on it or the body)

[Reinsch]

I've invested over 400 GBP to 3d scan rear section of frame, transmission and part of engine room. I also have my new engine. Did all that before doing engine swap to make sure all will fit nicely. Since that time I've modelled many parts for my project. Including front body section around brake booster to make sure new booster can fit. Don't have accurate model of front section of frame, so can't fully validate the gen2 iBooster clearance. Found one from 2019 model 3 for 250GBP including shipping, so will just buy it and see how it goes.


Plus found some outer shell CAD on the internet that I aligned to my model.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dIY5-uZzWI3M1tNRjQYmVfgy0uIs4_svQRjEe4WoDAkhjr9ZRUr_4F6 rI3C_GaqCuYhMU5ifNyvrETorVsYdaJmnkTeomsqErSKHtQf8v Wqw9z0VGHczOuOngvc3vJrbbi0tRWT25Eeitn9Cdz1wV7Cw=w1 108-h764-no?authuser=1


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3e3J5A2K-9qeYV2zwVgxAhVeo3xr1tsHlrOUIwlk30yimQk-HhRSotuWggDD422VnZ7aciNuqwwxwfAIk-vBUID2ozSk8AQD1uJsIEeHuBNCcNz2DZbcdthdeEArZUBwqN6x 6ev3QcrxANcFBBOWk9yyw=w1174-h760-no?authuser=1

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eavxsAGollYW3nlrb0KuxSn-pdywRAaLOdutma_wFAB1ErmNlQzxAggiVpojCgKxcwX-5OieQOMuPQapY9bl-HLAJJ1RoR4qUqNpL4RHSK76UMmSfOQJxcVsJf7IPGp4fnddcF3 gLXgzCyXmdVoCkHGA=w1141-h720-no?authuser=1

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cQ1xv2vcdI5h65fONgPfeRk-98YJC3pwI-8TvKOLQIo0WbgsQc0-ucJXTGqzZ4YaGPKiDfJdTyAgTuwrWHrO40Op9HJLvRjE1EwKHd NzLT9G7MjOWQKXR5-Ly1p6YOItUshfYAt870VU5hLrI5eB5gYQ=w1239-h727-no?authuser=1

[Reinsch]

For those who consider iBooster Gen2.

Please note there is difference between ibooster from LHD vehicle and RHD vehicle.

LHD booster:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fQpG4yQsdb6wxu9jx9ul-qzQsU4EcJMnVWL1Ak68zSjdntgEuMpbIEXu4IAxF8KATk44RMO FCR_7CSLn3v9BU20gP4K1-7WchVouF8MK40x1dIcW0-sq4b_Fg21bkh8VmveWlJAw0SJFjCU0ud6X5dGA=w848-h676-no?authuser=1


RHD booster:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fyGQfhN_uoBEa4bulNJFgPPp_M3QIXCrIuYhxkMnNGVWggxR1 139BKGtpgLq3p22hwYGONSzUS44kYUm_MXFwyKeIXVLbN2eVoC rc3ESkzmB9-lRXsFG-9UIPF1xLv_-WAw_ccwZbRLROCCZ5almDsdQ=w765-h684-no?authuser=1

as you can see configs are slightly different. You can flip master cylinder 180degree like in GEN1. Looking in CAD, both might fit from body side perspective, however only in one orientation.
Unfortunately, still can't confirm clearance to frame.
referring to photos from first page of this topic --> not much space under GEN1 booster. GEN2 is hanging lower for sure which might be blocking point. As I wrote previously, booster fits only in one orientation, so if you were to flip it to clear frame, you would hit body.

So far I can say that I think that Gen2 RHD ibooster is better way to go than Gen2 LHD.

However, I'm starting to think that Gen1 is a way to go as I know it fits. Unfortunately, nearly double the price of Gen2 in Europe! Sic!

[Josh]

I have a model 3 booster in the mail right now. I will bolt it up when it gets here. I intend on retaining the stock delorean master and reservoir.

[powerline84]

I took some rough measurements to assist people from a gen 1 perspective. Note that I have already flipped the master and the reservoir is stock 2015 model s.

[Reinsch]

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dXtjBIwKE-Cuc4Bi4nGSTctt4hYj0kfUNeMVp4ZboeMIs716NlOuSzXiDvOw pdzIHa4AVaHmiRbpNfsibJE8uwGSJAn4AItgq59ZoV4aX9C17d wkQ9mmt-FSVy1kKf9oEYWSLy_nNgwfDH73ceM7yOnQ=w1475-h1106-no?authuser=1

iBooster gen2 is 50mm

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3d4DDDdtgYKuE3godTYpgRgXn5fhj6a5OjruKcf80GGx0wy0E1 roJCN5U7I3f948LeNZvVPegxuD9GodO3QpKUY-13gM9gcCNlJL1DpDYL_tBUN8RsYCmDewuZyVUqXzlVrhn2vJCl Y1vtzkvd6BYJxsw=w1475-h1106-no?authuser=1

iBooster gen2 is about 100mm

Master cylinder is at 45degree on ibooster but you can rotate that if you get your Delorean one to fit. Quite sure pin will be a problem.

Clearance wise at 45 degree you should be OK between ibooster and body (about 9mm) as long as small connector is on top. Will not fit otherwise.

can't confirm clearance to frame, but ibooster gen2 hangs 50mm lower than stock delorean booster.

edit: with 45 angle rotation it hangs lower only 35mm, so some improvement

[Reinsch]

I took some rough measurements to assist people from a gen 1 perspective. Note that I have already flipped the master and the reservoir is stock 2015 model s.

thanks for that!

RHD model S has that in flipped config already. Plus brake pipe connection is on other side :

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/os0AAOSw4JFfhyyf/s-l1600.jpg

[Farrar]

I'm following this thread as I have always found the DMC brakes to be lacking and maybe this is something I'd like to do on my car. Is the Bosch iBooster unit available on its own in the U.S. or would I have to find a wrecked Tesla to scavenge a used unit?

[powerline84]

They are hard to get ahold of new and I know the gen 1 boosters are about 1200 bucks. Your best bet is used wreck parts. Mine came from a tesla s 2015 with 35000 on the clock. 375 on ebay saved about 100 bucks by making offers till someone accepted on my 3rd vendor attempt

[RamblinDMC]

I removed my old master and booster tonight in preparation for my ibooster install and I was curious what the best course of action is for the brake pedal clevis rod. Its much shorter on the ibooster vs the original one.

[Reinsch]

there is always some adjustment.

If not enough, you can cut the shaft, thread one end with left thread, the other with right and use roman screw.
or thread them same and use long nut, but for adjustment you will need to remove pin each time and unscrew half turn minimum.

There is also option of welding extension in, or making new shaft to your specific dimension.

[Reinsch]

I have a model 3 booster in the mail right now. I will bolt it up when it gets here. I intend on retaining the stock delorean master and reservoir.

how's that ibooster or yours? Does it fit ?

[Josh]

how's that ibooster or yours? Does it fit ?

if you read the message you can deduce it's still in the mail.

[Reinsch]

if you read the message you can deduce it's still in the mail.

indeed. Date indicates it was in mail 7 days ago.

[RamblinDMC]

I found a supplier that can make a drop in replacement clevis rod suitable for the DeLorean that will screw in place of the tesla clevis. The DeLorean clevis is odd because it's a 12mm pin. Most brake clevis pins are 10mm from what I've seen, including the stock Tesla one. So just extending the iBooster clevis rod is not an option.

My custom clevis rod is arriving in the mail soon. I'll try it out and see how it works. I plan on offering these for sale assuming it works well.

[Josh]

If you have a welder you can easily make an extended clevis. I have done this with my wilwood clutch master.

My model 3 booster was commandeered by Customs, said it cannot travel across the US/Canada border.

I did a bit more research and found the 2017-current Honda CRV has the same booster as the Model S, with a different (remote reservoir) master.
I was able to skirt around the "tesla tax" and purchased it (from a Canadian Junkyard) for even less than the Model 3 booster which was already less than the Model S booster.

Once again I will be retrofitting on the delorean master cylinder, will update when I get something together.

[powerline84]

"Tesla Tax". Lol funny cause it's true

[Josh]

My iBooster came in yesterday. Once again it is a GEN1 from a Honda CRV and can be had for much cheaper than any of the Tesla boosters, while being very similar.
I still have some work to do to mount the master cylinder to the booster and make the clevis rod but the booster itself is mounted.

Notes:
-Bolt pattern is on a 80mm x 60mm rectangle
-Pedal Clevis has M10x1.5 threads, it can easily be extended with a coupling nut, stud/rod, and a metric clevis.
-I will not be using it, but the CR-V master and reservoir fit under the trunk floor panel.
-I had a mild to moderate interference between the bottom of the ibooster and the top of the fuel tank. I tightened everything up and it is sitting where it needs to be but it is an item of concern. This is due to the mounting plate being lower profile than the tesla one. I think I may need to make a spacer. It is a flat plate for the CR-V, but a thick casting for the tesla.

Pictures:
https://i.imgur.com/Z1248inh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/I2m27Sch.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/xWZO15Gh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/d1Td8b0h.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Gt12qwZh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/KhaCP2jh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/iGGK9RBh.jpg

[Reinsch]

Thanks for remarks and photos.

Do you recall clearance between stock Delorean booster and tank/frame before swap ?

In your opinion, knowing that iBooster gen2 (Tesla model 3/Y) is hanging lower by about 35mm to stock Delorean booster, does it have chance to fit?

Looking on photos and dimensions from previous posts, GEN1 sits slightly higher than GEN2, so considering your comments, I would conclude that chances are rather low, unless you tilt ibooster few degrees?

[RamblinDMC]

I installed my Ibooster yesterday. I still have to bleed the brakes but I'm looking forward to seeing how it changes braking performance.

Also I made a clevis/rod setup that seems to work really nicely. If anybody wants a clevis/rod, I ordered extra parts and I have enough to put together a couple more.

6506565066

[Josh]

Those electrical connections make me nervous. Also, it looks like you are using a 10mm clevis whereas the brake pedal box linkage accepts a 1/2" Pin.
I understand this all works, but imo brakes are not worth messing around with.

[Josh]

Thanks for remarks and photos.

Do you recall clearance between stock Delorean booster and tank/frame before swap ?

In your opinion, knowing that iBooster gen2 (Tesla model 3/Y) is hanging lower by about 35mm to stock Delorean booster, does it have chance to fit?

Looking on photos and dimensions from previous posts, GEN1 sits slightly higher than GEN2, so considering your comments, I would conclude that chances are rather low, unless you tilt ibooster few degrees?

I cant really answer much about the Gen2 booster as I never went this direction. But with the Gen 1 there is very little room in any direction.
I would not tilt the booster much more as it puts the pushrod off center.

[RamblinDMC]

The clevis pin is the correct size. It 1/2 inch.

[81dmc]

The Tesla unit is a perfect match for the DeLorean. The longer mounting plate allows the unit to clear the fuel tank. Refer to my picture below.
65067


Now look at Josh’s CRV booster picture below. The shorter mounting foot pulls the unit too close to the car which in turn, causes the unit to hit the fuel tank.
65068


You can swap the mounting plate from a Tesla booster, but good luck finding one. The best thing I can recommend is making a spacer plate.

[Reinsch]

You can scrap both (bracket and adapter) and make one from scratch that is stiffer and offsets ibooster accordingly.

From what I've read, stock bracket and dash panel itself can flex under heavy braking (easy to check, just press brake pedal hard with ignition off and second person looking on booster). It is not complex part that can be easily fabricated to better standard.

[Josh]

The Tesla unit is a perfect match for the DeLorean. The longer mounting plate allows the unit to clear the fuel tank. Refer to my picture below.
65067


Now look at Josh’s CRV booster picture below. The shorter mounting foot pulls the unit too close to the car which in turn, causes the unit to hit the fuel tank.
65068


You can swap the mounting plate from a Tesla booster, but good luck finding one. The best thing I can recommend is making a spacer plate.

That was sorted out rather quickly, good eye. Ill make up a spacer plate that uses the stock booster bolt pattern (M8, 90mm square), so no holes need to be drilled next time.

That being said Marek is right, the stock mount is pretty flimsy. A stronger one could be fabricated with relative ease. I see DPI makes a nice upgraded one, its substantially thicker. https://deloreanindustries.com/12-brake-booster-mounting-bracket-stainless-powder-coated/


If someone could measure the thickness of the Tesla adapter that would be VERY helpful. Jimmy?

[powerline84]

650696507065071

As requested gen 1 tesla bracket foot if you will

[Josh]

Thank you!!

[RamblinDMC]

Just finished up my ibooster install. I'm blown away at how good the brakes are now. Definitely a worthwhile mod!

[powerline84]

Just finished up my ibooster install. I'm blown away at how good the brakes are now. Definitely a worthwhile mod!

Did you run into any hickups?

[RamblinDMC]

I'd say the most difficult part was making the brake lines since the master's ports are on the opposite side to the OEM Girling style master. I have to get used to how touchy the brakes are. 2203's brakes used to be really squishy like an old truck. Now it really brakes like a more modern car.

[powerline84]

This makes me excited. Braking like a modern car is the goal lol

[mr_maxime]

I was eyeballing some cheap Honda ones on ebay. Looks like the model 3 master has the ports on the correct side though.

[Reinsch]

I was eyeballing some cheap Honda ones on ebay. Looks like the model 3 master has the ports on the correct side though.

Gen2 ibooster is unlikely to fit, but you are welcome to prove me wrong (please read my previous posts).

Tesla Model S Right Hand Drive ibooster gen1 has brake ports on master cylinder on "Delorean side".

Mine is in transit. Should arrive in a week.

[Josh]

Gen2 ibooster is unlikely to fit, but you are welcome to prove me wrong (please read my previous posts).

I share the same sentiment.

Im interested to see how cheap someone can get a CRV booster. I have seen some being listed for $100. The description is very poor as its just generic pictures of the salvage vehicle so it feels like a bit of a gamble.

[mr_maxime]

It was cheap enough that I didn't mind it not fitting. I'd just relist it.

[81dmc]

With the prices of iBoosters right now... idk if I would even do the swap today...

Mine came from a crash test car, and I paid just about $80 for the basically new iBooster, and iirc, $35 or so for a Chevy Volt reservoir (which still protruded too high lol).


You all are just getting raped with the prices today.


Edit: Before I forget, I believe the best reservoir for the DeLorean would be the model X reservoir.
65130

[Josh]

With the prices of iBoosters right now... idk if I would even do the swap today...

Mine came from a crash test car, and I paid just about $80 for the basically new iBooster, and iirc, $35 or so for a Chevy Volt reservoir (which still protruded too high lol).


You all are just getting raped with the prices today.


Edit: Before I forget, I believe the best reservoir for the DeLorean would be the model X reservoir.
65130

The CRV iBoosters can be had for ~$100 still.

Update: I have mocked up two adapters for my install. With this setup (besides the wiring) the iBooster will be entirely bolt in and no fussing with the master cylinder. Can keep the trunk panel on as well.
Waiting on material right now to fabricate the pieces out of aluminum.

https://i.imgur.com/8JJBurjl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/M1HgQTLl.jpg

[CyberBill]

Amazing!!!

[jangell]

The CRV iBoosters can be had for ~$100 still.

Update: I have mocked up two adapters for my install. With this setup (besides the wiring) the iBooster will be entirely bolt in and no fussing with the master cylinder. Can keep the trunk panel on as well.
Waiting on material right now to fabricate the pieces out of aluminum.


And how much will you be selling these adaptor kits for? ;)

-- Joe

[Rich_NYS]

I'm following all these booster options closely, I'd like to upgrade when I reassemble next year.

Sent from my LGL164VL using Tapatalk

[bueller]

I'd be in for a set too. Big fan of this thread.

[Josh]

And how much will you be selling these adaptor kits for? ;)

-- Joe

I wouldnt imagine it would be too costly, but I need to run it though its paces next summer before I dare think about making copies.
Brakes are very important...

[Reinsch]

As previously noted, iBooster gen1 accepts M12 fittings and standard Delorean brake cylinder fittings are M10.

Below iBooster Gen1 form Tesla Model S RHD (ports on "Delorean side")

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cqe9AwSckwXFCXqXZsbAbXE1x9DJgPefkhLdUBGiSCPrcfPKk ebcz-06blmsIRrYIp_UC2Frd3dbJoF0u5HxLdHXyxGYiNjijbrjbA2C Bt-nJrMXke7swMu3VBQCjmd9nGIPvrRWycm4a2rA6ppKoatA=w131 1-h983-no?authuser=1

You should not try to directly fit Delorean stock 4.75mm OD pipe to it as you won't achieve reliable sealing as contact surface is compromised comparing to iBooster much bigger pipe (6mm OD)

Below picture showing pipe size comparison (different flare types tho)

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dICoyrSc77VJWpZgwTHuWlS9eQta4KA2xHSnE9Kuv0CJBDd4o Ro85-YSIrEkHGw_XfMnZpzq-xlIiZws63Nain5SoFimmGgD95fLgNHC_tGch12CwfM50ol3DBH N_0HSFGBLNubtdOTGY9HBmT4hK_Ww=w1311-h983-no?authuser=1

I went with brass adaptor M12 x 1mm Male to M10 x 1mm Female with concave seat. It requires copper washer between adaptor and master cylinder (missing on below photos). I also had to trim it on the lathe a little bit as it was slightly too long.

Adaptor link (UK) https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/brass-union-m12x1-male-to-m10x1-female

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eo5VaAQ6zFOJtxYXqbxjlyis8pQGA14vQWtIbow3HZYD80AHP qOIxm8WxWsl9a_k_IpAcZZ8PDiYLnTMH6lhU_oOG4oYEGrJWKi bdWYEMIfwf7bLJj9gnSclLveJmqbRrrz3dYyf9NGsihXy5b-LHVAw=w1311-h983-no?authuser=1

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dLLuMJU1Ldg9olm2TPcDsVZwGtWQFwEN2j7O_3SGZpPh1_sGH G2ymFF7Dqn2k1r1m0CZs9X7KHDr1Ho2nOM6IbOSjfGs4HAwzcO Tl3RuGw1G2Jpdl4B8zCMx33U6PoPkIiOY-Rk0AH51GCnbKo2tK9yw=w1311-h983-no?authuser=1

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3c7UAEgddj-LaYocZ_vva2isPtpL1fy9RK3XTENEFgUoFDJFaP-uNsGk4495PD7VB3NdlGMR7TqSyd2h_evNBAbFhRF09wlVEjHbH bs2o9tzUPRIlnp4O7WFxdzcgcleSVhcbiBzixWa_244qgnY9vz kA=w1311-h983-no?authuser=1

I'm currently in process of making a new booster bracket as I wanted to improve the stiffness.
It should be noted that surfaces are not parallel, there is about 5 degree angle between them

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dE5YTp_juLb7CI8SCtwQQrc43XqIXE51xMsSc1hQjSLBLx3fX tmqCzkLCzOOlPCQauqO1V6vtcD8-Jl-0YqklHSEWaD099VQqWmvG8hoDqfFxeKlRXIscxdc_sc9ufGmjl tNgsqFFftzDp_yZoosMLBA=w1032-h747-no?authuser=1

Extended rod with new clevis fork + brass bushing for smoother operation
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3d9mq717YpsHEZdn3J2zzYBuNYnrSNIhkTU1tlfWSpzAZIyn90 woEba5FGZfTOdzbOv_34vpflTFEWZhjdRO7cWvbZ4y0ifugzMh AvSuBy3qvKCVRDUncR0qJ7rX8AMtgxYa9NpiFR8jbxuS4KA0aA mbQ=w1311-h983-no?authuser=1

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eDNxHXZp6RM-5rqBDtdvHwKNMRinNXvS7To5nIHOvbR-OgltYibuEOdvEWHI3I6tWx6dA3dKDS27BcuTO1k-7monieOvTbu-vsdEfAoa9v60ZMQlUeuiBoYqrapZXqtORF5Qk25v6nSWmGXZPJ HolovQ=w1311-h983-no?authuser=1

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3esyq1HG-KXWk2mRREmShzP5sUF71-Yp3M4VyQ_ywF6t1JHp4m7QCNRA0-Z72JQKV6dwY144XYI4GoEU8nKs7gAglV16iqNf1JYuClIGig_v 8ZoW3zayF6OJkPeaakGKAHnHSCumj_CnlVcaNzBwBCBUw=w738-h983-no?authuser=1

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dJ8kZtPEOPqgHjsPY4gpvvfDDqZi5E2OpEPavNSNbvrJDOS1B UHv7BfCQxLDW5T24TyboAc8eGlCEzAYgBvcbrCFAFqjeVdxiHx 5gJH3e5oAoq_fkFINtlJeGSKeFJSAGCdXPAYmABs7xmFOHt_bL FmQ=w1311-h983-no?authuser=1

if anyone needs DXF to cut his brackets, let me know. I've used 70mm OD pipe as I had some spare. Please note, I did not fit the body back on the frame yet, so bracket is not fully welded yet. Subject to adjustments.

sorry for big photos, hosting directly from my album.

cheers,
Marek

[dmcnc]

Now this is something I would LOVE to do!!!


The CRV iBoosters can be had for ~$100 still.

Update: I have mocked up two adapters for my install. With this setup (besides the wiring) the iBooster will be entirely bolt in and no fussing with the master cylinder. Can keep the trunk panel on as well.
Waiting on material right now to fabricate the pieces out of aluminum.

https://i.imgur.com/8JJBurjl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/M1HgQTLl.jpg

[dmcman73]

The CRV iBoosters can be had for ~$100 still.

Update: I have mocked up two adapters for my install. With this setup (besides the wiring) the iBooster will be entirely bolt in and no fussing with the master cylinder. Can keep the trunk panel on as well.
Waiting on material right now to fabricate the pieces out of aluminum.

https://i.imgur.com/8JJBurjl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/M1HgQTLl.jpg

I like this route the best.

- No fussing with brake line adapters to fit the Delorean's hard brake lines into the Tesla's larger M/C ports
- Can keep the trunk panel on for a cleaner fit
- Cheaper route if you need to replace the master cylinder later on down the line
- Cheaper iBooster unit
- Use the proper proportion master cylinder for the Delorean

[Josh]

Thanks for the input guys! I have recently acquired the aluminum to make the pieces, need to get the lathe fired up and make the first version.

[Reinsch]

possible issues :

- The iBooster stroke might be different then the stroke of the Delorean master cylinder - you better off with matched units otherwise you risk damaging the master cylinder especially during bleeding. There is also an issue of bore size matching. Someone previously wrote that pedal stroke is now shorter... In extreme condition you might run out of pedal travel (iBooster stroke) sooner than you utilize whole stroke of a DeLorean master cylinder (not using full potential of possible pressure-->clamping force). Note that iBooster master cylinder is much shorter.

- Pin/rod from iBooster is different length then pin/rod of stock booster, might be a pain to extend that. From looking it will be rather hard to replace the push pin as you need to take apart the iBooster. I did not see any adjustment there. Nowadays parts "just fit", no time to adjust anything on the assembly line, they are just precisely made.

Issue of reservoir tank can be solved easily in few ways previously mentioned:
- remote tank(s). either from other vehicle or you can machine fittings and move current unit to appropriate place and connect everything with hose. Tank needs to be located higher than the master cylinder (rather obvious). Clutch system is using a brake fluid too, so you might get a 3 section tank and locate it next to a fuel filler.

- find a tank that fits (anything that has Gen1 iBooster)

- brake bias - you can get a choking valve or verify if new 50/50 is actually OK.

For a future-proofing, you might actually want to have a new master cylinder, as they are more likely to still be on the market (and cheaper) then an old Delorean units in 10 years.

[Josh]

The push rod does need to be extended, I have removed it with relative ease. Making a longer one.

There still is not a solution for a reservoir with the tesla or similar master cylinder. Changing out the master means fussing with brake fluid and bleeding the brakes etc. Makes the job messy when it does not need to.

As for travel, there is less because you have more of an assisted advantage with the ibooster. no need to push the pedal to the floor. This will not be a concern regardless of the master cylinder.


We should both get back to working on our cars, all this means nothing if you dont have it on a running driving car...

[Josh]

Finally made a final version of my Ibooster concept. Once again this uses the Gen1 booster, which can be found from a few sources but most cost effectively a Honda CRV.
No re-drilling the booster extension, no adapting brake lines, no need to crack a brake line, rebleed the system etc. Fully reversible.

Here are the components required:

https://i.imgur.com/VCj9BxTl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/rXFC1ral.jpg

Fully Assembled:

https://i.imgur.com/uKCBByUl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/e6XoEhJl.jpg

Extended Pushrod:

https://i.imgur.com/9Me09kXl.jpg

Brake Clevis and extension mount, hooks up just like the stock vacuum booster:

https://i.imgur.com/N55Uqgol.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/5d0Ihx3l.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/iu9kvfnl.jpg

[Farrar]

That is a thing of beauty.

[dmcman73]

Finally made a final version of my Ibooster concept. Once again this uses the Gen1 booster, which can be found from a few sources but most cost effectively a Honda CRV.
No re-drilling the booster extension, no adapting brake lines, no need to crack a brake line, rebleed the system etc. Fully reversible.

Here are the components required:

https://i.imgur.com/VCj9BxTl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/rXFC1ral.jpg

Fully Assembled:

https://i.imgur.com/uKCBByUl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/e6XoEhJl.jpg

Extended Pushrod:

https://i.imgur.com/9Me09kXl.jpg

Brake Clevis and extension mount, hooks up just like the stock vacuum booster:

https://i.imgur.com/N55Uqgol.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/5d0Ihx3l.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/iu9kvfnl.jpg

Nice work! This looks extremely promising and much cleaner.

[powerline84]

Nice!

[Reinsch]

I've decided to develop the bracket with a correct angle which is important to avoid premature wear of piston on ibooster bore. I've spoken with my colleague who is a brake engineer and told me that I should stay under 3 degrees (angle between push shaft and bore axis). The packaging looked also very tight, so I've decided to maximize clearance to the fuel tank.
Thanks to 3D scanning of the body, frame, and ibooster I was able to develop the correct bracket that fulfills all the above goals.

Body with the front of the chassis, look from top
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3d8_XtNSHD8D9XlbXoA0oEYx6JH-ifrrd-nxqITlZbcYGZRgRlNvqdQQwp0ArkejxvIiouAJ0K1I0f6Ff_Kw EeJf-Ij9oun6i-dw4p-_zse-YakzfBn9r-CkLfgtH71C3sD5773R4tlDJosyOt3MBUKzQ=w1000-h802-no?authuser=0

Body view from under the vehicle
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cyt1GAfmtAbkZF3UjvJe1NWGRUG2OneCKDs9FlGvmX6rL6B8z sfoKjDONl3unU0n-wUcDMRbrFXuo7smjLS4OiEfDyT4XjX6WtXyGVIWH_4LU-M9ik9pnyo9s5j_0dyUln1WrEO3t2NzlDWvC2lqnZkQ=w963-h799-no?authuser=0

iBooster gen1 from RHD Model S
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fAIVYiB8mhwbDbOC1k-bgvJEJawfBFYMHOKRK92gcKhzO0X2DYXVqZai4pY3Q_qsoVEW7 PGj_KjK8YunxNKShKZucagqNKEAJOPjx2HmqHnp5Xfl_5E422F AQfmClicdA2LfFxmhsex0XvMAHdKLXQcQ=w982-h661-no?authuser=0

Fabricated bracket with iBooster mounted to my vehicle
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eWj4Zr3Ud6Rv_fHtkNEuM5uHX8CHWltKesXi0o84Njl37kOr7 kcXtcp7RXTRxP9xSFikTuQZJes5nHpsrZDWwEZpTKKIzmp_Uq4 0k6cJK0fwbrEUM-ZN4-X8jVacFEui5ZQTtgHG1P9aELrDbdqkAtPw=w1162-h871-no?authuser=0

Clearance to the body
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eHoKdcoKRV4U-x8HuuTCzLGGA_YRgQv6bvW17rwvb-jCb1X9rXHJFplKDowcSvRqUqT2YoZn-TOw_rWpQtgqjM-CECFL-usf-K9-U9MMVjfgRo05bTXVjicQ9lO3HFb80HII8s6QSY2jXcPegyuXlY Gg=w1162-h871-no?authuser=0

Clearance to the fuel tank (Tank is covered with heat reflective material. My system in returnless due to the nature of my new engine)
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3e6uLEQcz9FtfNSgUa9iFGpqzpa2qhMa-g5l3bA3rCr1z8uYxKYFxlUikGD8oxpQ2IzCmfHLF4Z-_rmkClEVkN3_eBckpEmWSc3GHtbepS2l8hR_0u6muwg0h1zLo4 DZkVdKhbIOojRjP0k7Vm4_IUjJw=w1162-h871-no?authuser=0

Pedal box with new clevis and extended shaft
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3c3G20dw2S91rJYfHwthstDoZo4jleTQACIyK5uZqLH0usrJHF sdo--uUfK9MQSSt2nwQHjMCixqTei3b9KyLbKSJxFR47LC2B_WA1315 3bk3sVHdX0WNIjvIgbMnsBdWyAJ_uwOyIdikYm7FGp62GIbg=w 1162-h871-no?authuser=0

Engineering behind it
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fMddmPbGbUkot2Q80utia4b638f_OkAD-i8IMiOA1z3Z2AO73TMkhfki9bYFOjM2orwGi8us1zUZEc-BWP7VXmOZvwrapYJSDnL4yJm83rlSw8jEfAGiU3Esfdirkgqb9 aH_LZ0lMTu07n3z3gvSDnDA=w1246-h705-no?authuser=0


I will be making research on reservoir tanks, but will possibly try the model X one.

[81dmc]

I’m really just amazed where this has gone. I started with a redneck retrofit, and now it’s being properly engineered into the car with CNC parts.:bigclap:

[81dmc]

Just an update guys.

Looks like the new Model Y master cylinder will work better in the DeLorean. It has the ports on the correct side and a low profile reservoir.

pics are from eBay.

6633466335


I’ll get my hands on one someday to install on my gen 1 ibooster.

[Josh]

I have my setup finally installed in my car, retaining the stock master. Aside from the fill hole not lining up I can get the closing plate on just fine!

Also thank you for all your help with this project Rodolfo

[81dmc]

As for travel, there is less because you have more of an assisted advantage with the ibooster. no need to push the pedal to the floor. This will not be a concern regardless of the master cylinder.



I was just reading and this way of thinking is wrong. Stroke is not variable. All a booster does is help you push the the pedal the length of the stroke.

If you measure the maximum stroke of the ibooster, you can compare it to the stroke of the stock vacuum booster.

If the ibooster has less useable stroke than the stock one, you will have less useable braking power with the stock master.




On another note, I have purchased a Model Y master for the fluid tank. Let’s see if that fits...

I also purchased a Ford Fiesta master cylinder as it’s a similar Bosch style, but it has a better matched .82” bore. The DeLorean is .63” iirc and the Tesla is a 1”. The 1” bore is why the brakes are too touchy with the Tesla master...

[Josh]

I understand that the stroke does not change. But you dont need to bury the pedal into the floor to get the car to stop due to a 40 year old leaky booster.

[81dmc]

I understand that the stroke does not change. But you dont need to bury the pedal into the floor to get the car to stop due to a 40 year old leaky booster.

A bad booster would only make the pedal hard to push. It’s impossible to bury the brake pedal to the floor with a bad booster unless you are the incredible hulk. But I’m just poking at the specifics ;).


From the factory, the DeLorean already had an undersized vacuum booster due to size constraints. That small size limits the amount of vacuum assist provided, which is probably why stocks brakes feel like an old truck...



Let us know how that unique setup works one you get out on the road... pretty curious if it will make the braking effortless. Maybe video the pedal action?


Also to everyone else, looks like oudevolvo.nl got some connector kits together. Much better solution than I had in 2018.

[Josh]

Im also very excited to see how it works. Just finishing up the wiring now. Jimmy and Luke are helping me out as its hard to find suppliers for these connectors that ship to canada.

As far as i can gather the only stock part of my brake system left are the hard lines and the master cylinder!

[powerline84]

Also to everyone else, looks like oudevolvo.nl got some connector kits together. Much better solution than I had in 2018.


Do you have a link. I bought all the pins and connectors you helped me out with . But would be curious to see what's being offered out there .

[powerline84]

Found it.

https://www.evcreate.nl/shop/brakes-wheels/ibooster-gen1-connector-kit/

[81dmc]

Found it.

https://www.evcreate.nl/shop/brakes-wheels/ibooster-gen1-connector-kit/
Yep.


Way better than my current solution which uses RTV to seal the wires to the connector housing! :mecry:

I may buy his connector when I do the reservoir and master retrofits...

[81dmc]

So, the Model Y reservoir is an almost perfect fit in the DeLorean.

663756637666377

Very little clearance between spare well, but it fits. :partyhat:

I measured a stock DMC master, and it’s a .81” bore. Ford Fiesta master has a .82” bore with M12 bubble flares on the correct side. Model Y master has a 1.0” bore with M12 bubble flare on the correct side.

I’m going to test both Fiesta and Model Y master to see which bore fits my liking. This test will be in a few months (prob a year) because I kinda need an engine first...

Also going to see if a Gen 2 iBooster will fit. :D

[81dmc]

Well this was quick... and stupid.


Ford Fiesta and Model Y master cylinder will only fit on a vacuum booster or Gen 2 iBooster. On top of that, there no way in hell a Gen 2 will ever fit in a delorean.

[Josh]

That was a bit of a rollercoaster ride lol. So why will the newer master cylinders not fit on the GEN1 booster?

[81dmc]

That was a bit of a rollercoaster ride lol. So why will the newer master cylinders not fit on the GEN1 booster?
Roll coaster it was...Got all excited, then was let down considerably.


The base of the newer master is smaller in diameter, and the flanges are farther from center. The Gen 2 booster basically uses the same masters that bolt to some Bosch vacuum boosters.

The wonky setup is the Gen 1 iBooster... It uses a specific design of master cylinder I have never seen anywhere else.

[powerline84]

I have to give props to Marek. His gen 1 model s ibooster mount is a top notch piece. Significantly stronger then factory.
No fuss with having to drill holes. Proper angle. I booster slides right on. Mounts up to body like factory. Save yourself the hassle and just buy one of these.

6662766628666296663066631

[Josh]

I have to give props to Marek. His gen 1 model s ibooster mount is a top notch piece. Significantly stronger then factory.
No fuss with having to drill holes. Proper angle. I booster slides right on. Mounts up to body like factory. Save yourself the hassle and just buy one of these.

6662766628666296663066631

Looks nice.

Does he have a solution so the reservoir does not stick out into the trunk?

[Reinsch]

Looks nice.

Does he have a solution so the reservoir does not stick out into the trunk?

Tank from iBooster gen 2 will fit to iBooster gen1.
If model 3/Y tank is currently the best known solution imo.
I fitted gen2 tank from a Nissan, but only due to the level sensor that was missing from my Model S tank.

There is big chance that many thanks from Bosch masters will fit. Got another one to try on that is quite low.

Remember that Tesla Model S RHD has ports on a correct side. Few available on eBay in Europe. I bought mine from Lithuania together with harness connectors.

[Rayhall]

Hello I have fitted the IBooster from a 2017 Honda CRV to my Ultima Evolution . The booster is working but I have a soft pedal. I used a professional pressure brake bleeder and I have no more air coming out the wheel bleed screws. Normally on a car with a vacuum booster the pedal would be rock hard after pressure bleeding. Do I have to bleed the brakes manually to get the air out. By manually I mean depress the brake pedal and then open a bleed screw, lock it release the brake pedal and replete over and over.
Ray.

[dmcman73]

Hello I have fitted the IBooster from a 2017 Honda CRV to my Ultima Evolution . The booster is working but I have a soft pedal. I used a professional pressure brake bleeder and I have no more air coming out the wheel bleed screws. Normally on a car with a vacuum booster the pedal would be rock hard after pressure bleeding. Do I have to bleed the brakes manually to get the air out. By manually I mean depress the brake pedal and then open a bleed screw, lock it release the brake pedal and replete over and over.
Ray.

Are you using the original Delorean master cylinder on the iBooster? Did you bleed the master cylinder when you reinstalled it? Also, if you are using the Delorean master brake cylinder, the pin inside the iBooster I believe needs to be extended as well, was that done?

[Reinsch]

in my particular case, I was dealing with all brand new and dry brake lines, also all rebuild calipers, so theoretically it should be harder to remove any air bubbles.

The first step was to "bench bleed" the master cylinder as per the photo - you basically run brake fluid back to the reservoir tank. It's quite important when dealing with the dry master cylinders.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLWssaKx4mgjBoRD67H8ALQV7wVdGaC74b3hh2ctDQNUjtLFp 4v24exyeF7COaklI6Sd2ykAyZphy9n2zdHexQMjejo5W2jwoQp jzIkHSuyOHT6914QuDbF_zskBlvj7JhdB1vLm1PUe7im2qsjGM 0D4eQ=w1547-h1160-no?authuser=0

You do it gently, but with full strokes, until you don't see any bubbles coming out in the tube (that's why it's good to have it transparent).

Once that was done I've connected my main lines, and vacuum bleed each caliper starting with those on the back.

After that, I've energized the iBooster and pumped the brakes many times including some time with the pedal pressed.

Vacuum bleed again after that for sanity.

The pedal is nice and firm. The test drive to be done in a few weeks as I finally have my custom muffler.

I run ibooster with its stock master cylinder.

[Rayhall]

in my particular case, I was dealing with all brand new and dry brake lines, also all rebuild calipers, so theoretically it should be harder to remove any air bubbles.

The first step was to "bench bleed" the master cylinder as per the photo - you basically run brake fluid back to the reservoir tank. It's quite important when dealing with the dry master cylinders.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLWssaKx4mgjBoRD67H8ALQV7wVdGaC74b3hh2ctDQNUjtLFp 4v24exyeF7COaklI6Sd2ykAyZphy9n2zdHexQMjejo5W2jwoQp jzIkHSuyOHT6914QuDbF_zskBlvj7JhdB1vLm1PUe7im2qsjGM 0D4eQ=w1547-h1160-no?authuser=0

You do it gently, but with full strokes, until you don't see any bubbles coming out in the tube (that's why it's good to have it transparent).

Once that was done I've connected my main lines, and vacuum bleed each caliper starting with those on the back.

After that, I've energized the iBooster and pumped the brakes many times including some time with the pedal pressed.

Vacuum bleed again after that for sanity.

The pedal is nice and firm. The test drive to be done in a few weeks as I finally have my custom muffler.

I run ibooster with its stock master cylinder.

I did not bleed the air out of the master cylinder first. I will try that thank you.
Ray.

[Rayhall]

Are you using the original Delorean master cylinder on the iBooster? Did you bleed the master cylinder when you reinstalled it? Also, if you are using the Delorean master brake cylinder, the pin inside the iBooster I believe needs to be extended as well, was that done?

I am using the IBooster master cylinder and I did not bleed it first. I will try that thank you.

[81dmc]

Just to update this

I will be replacing the Tesla master cylinder with one from an Audi A3 e-tron RHD. Bore is smaller at .92” vs Tesla 1” p/n is 5QE-611-015-AK. Got a good deal on it, and it’s on its way from Britain. Will report back after testing.

68753

[81dmc]

So I got the VW/Audi brake master. This master is much more suitable for the DeLorean.
LH is VW and RH is Tesla.
68779

Bore is in fact smaller and the exit ports are on the correct side (because it is a RHD master). Exit ports are also DIN/Bubble flare but with M12x1.0 fittings.

So it can bolt into the car with just adapters. Of course, my lines are already modified, so I’m choosing to use m12x1.0 line nuts for the 3/16” line.
68781


Model Y reservoir also fits wonderfully even with outlet orientation (this worried me).
68780

[81dmc]

Went in beautifully.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52278151615_3717c18e5c_o_d.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52276692677_99f340fdae_o_d.jpg


Also purchased the brake sensor plug from mouser. Barely has any room, but it works.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52277668536_b2bb394bf9_o_d.jpg

Will pressure test when I receive my new iBooster plug (old one was sealed with RTV:p).

[82DMC12]

DPI sells replacement brake lines which are DOT flex hoses. Josh has a kit that replaces all the hard lines on the entire car with these other hoses that use banjo bolts in some places to connect to the distribution blocks. That would allow you to use a master cylinder of any type no matter where the outlets are located.

[81dmc]

DPI sells replacement brake lines which are DOT flex hoses. Josh has a kit that replaces all the hard lines on the entire car with these other hoses that use banjo bolts in some places to connect to the distribution blocks. That would allow you to use a master cylinder of any type no matter where the outlets are located.

That wasn’t the reason for this change… But I will say, I’m very sure the Model Y reservoir wouldn’t work with the ports on the other side as it would interfere with the level sensor. Also making your own hard lines and flaring them is extremely easy, and they don’t crack, break, or expand like the flex hoses…

Really I only did this swap because this new master has a smaller .92” bore. Tesla is 1” which made braking a little weird. For reference, I think this new master has the same bore as the old crossref Saab master. Factory DeLorean for sure is .81”

[82DMC12]

That wasn’t the reason for this change… But I will say, I’m very sure the Model Y reservoir wouldn’t work with the ports on the other side as it would interfere with the level sensor. Also making your own hard lines and flaring them is extremely easy, and they don’t crack, break, or expand like the flex hoses…

Really I only did this swap because this new master has a smaller .92” bore. Tesla is 1” which made braking a little weird. For reference, I think this new master has the same bore as the old crossref Saab master. Factory DeLorean for sure is .81”

Sorry, when I said Flex hoses I mean they are like the replacement stainless braided fuel lines. They most certainly would not swell or expand under braking or else DPI would not be using them.

[81dmc]

Want to update this again.

After the VW master cyl install, I was having issues with the Tesla iBooster. If I didn't preload the control rod, it would click. If I put just 1mm too much preload pressure, the unit wouldn?t turn on sometimes and would often shut off randomly. Dangerous.


So I bought Honda CRV iBooster and tested it. It doesn't have that preload issue. In fact, the CRV iBooster needs ZERO preload to start. This of course is way better for safety.

First thing is the Tesla iBooster mounting plate must be swapped to the CRV booster. Or just make a spacer for the CRV mount plate. This is necessary as it gives clearance between booster and fuel tank.


One more thing is the CRV master sits 7mm more inside the booster. This means to use a Tesla or VW master on the CRV booster, you need two things.

So first, the control rod must be lengthened. This can be done by unscrewing the CRV control rod to proper setting and adding a jamb nut to be sure it doesn't move, or just find a control rod from a Tesla Booster. Since I had a Tesla booster, I went with the latter.

Next, you need a 43mm ID x 55mm OD x 7mm Wide spacer to place between the master and the booster. This allows the master to push slightly against the iBooster spring. This is required as the clip holding the spring isn't designed to retain it under full compression.




So far, it seems the CRV booster has a better feel to it. Still have yet to test on the road as my car needs a roof...and doors. I believe the function will be better though.

[Reinsch]

here are some photos of Model S, RHD ibooster (gen1) with Model Y reservoir tank. it clears the cover, but the hole is in the wrong place, so need to get a piece of plexiglass and cut it to shape and locate the hole in the correct place.

All works each time I power up the car, really sharp brakes, and so far tested around the block as the car is not yet finished.


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AIL4fc_RNqadyqi6fFxD89HIcDShIZjWSFoBwFtjvPCWNWSiwL u3ZBCYOtPpBTnTpgXNzZUQvd587Px341sJ8Cv2TAjHimrw_4Fa APlHXn8BJKUUqqhqKmt-oIEnK145_8G_3l5uBD7vhUAsU2zCNWQF3sv-xw=w1605-h1204-s-no?authuser=0

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AIL4fc8q3BBdTvupGrp6mAhbl-OQvEP3AhJ2GYRpyw5Lp51GisQIZ1MjQ35GHssyHPnxpqD8JTzN z9BpToxeunXF7RWeIiyHtkvl79AI90nKl1mhN40OJp3-1hGQdlCGmq-GpH4oiIGprIhc9h0yPD0BbvybBQ=w1605-h1204-s-no?authuser=0

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AIL4fc88JaAj_jJY4mntAKpkrR05hcZom8dW3RXBxzRK9iWKyg y3LXcVTW3C-Ldq05_EI66Ia90PSwXvISox9T2OQLM9-_toSLJrWldsmdClc5hUHUtTN7Eju-8uzWNV6Wbj2sBWWr9Q1c0CDVkoJOInkKGOcQ=w1605-h1204-s-no?authuser=0