No spark

[Bullitt]

No spark, car wont start. Engine gets gas. As some may know I am finishing my frame off restoration. I have had the car running well for some time, but suddently a few months ago car would not start. I have a new coil and resistor. The engine harness, main harness, fuses and relays are new. Plugs and plugwires are 8 years old, but barley used. I have checked the inertia switch and pulled out one plug to check for spark. I put a wire between + on coil and jump start post. No luck. Any tips on what check next?

[DMC5180]

It wouldn’t hurt to unplug and reconnect the ignition ECU connector. The ECU is mounted under the Idle ECU behind the Driver seat.

Mine somehow lost connection within the connector contacts. It happened a couple times before I discovered the problem. Once while just sitting in the garage and the other while driving and was like I turned the key off. I discovered the fault by accident, I had checked through the usual suspect areas with no luck. The only thing left was the ECU. I put my hand on the connector and wiggled it just a little. Then turned the key and it fired up instantly, the Ah ha moment. I wiggled it a little while the engine was running and sure enough it shut down. At that point I removed the connecter took a look at the terminal contacts. Nothing looked dirty, but I connected and disconnected it a few times to scratch the terminals to one another.

It has been fine ever since.

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[David T]

Check battery voltage. If less than 11 volts charge battery. If greater, measure the voltage at the + terminal of the ignition coil with the key on.

[mr_maxime]

Check bulkhead connectors. One of wires in my had gotten pulled out before.

[Andrew]

Check your pulse coil resistance and the pulse coil connector wire connection. I have seen at least one failed pulse coil wire and a faulty pulse coil over the years.

Also check the ICM circuit to make sure the module is getting power.

[Bullitt]

It wouldn’t hurt to unplug and reconnect the ignition ECU connector. The ECU is mounted under the Idle ECU behind the Driver seat.

Mine somehow lost connection within the connector contacts. It happened a couple times before I discovered the problem. Once while just sitting in the garage and the other while driving and was like I turned the key off. I discovered the fault by accident, I had checked through the usual suspect areas with no luck. The only thing left was the ECU. I put my hand on the connector and wiggled it just a little. Then turned the key and it fired up instantly, the Ah ha moment. I wiggled it a little while the engine was running and sure enough it shut down. At that point I removed the connecter took a look at the terminal contacts. Nothing looked dirty, but I connected and disconnected it a few times to scratch the terminals to one another.

It has been fine ever since.

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No luck there.

[Bitsyncmaster]

No luck there.

The two pin connector from the pickup sensor near the drivers side firewall gets very corroded. Check that connector.

[Bullitt]

The two pin connector from the pickup sensor near the drivers side firewall gets very corroded. Check that connector.

Looks ok

[Bullitt]

According to manual if voltage between terminal 1 on coil and ground shows less than 0,5V there is a short circuit in ECU module. Mine shows 4,5V.... (Battery Voltage over 12V)

[Jonathan]

You said you had the car running well for sometime and then suddenly, a few months ago, it wouldn't start. Is this before you started the frame off restoration, or after you had begun putting the car back together?

If the car has not run well since before the restoration, I would suggest going back through your connections, one by one, and confirming not only that the routing is correct, but that each connection point is clean and secure.

If the car was running well after you had things put back together and then suddenly wasn't able to start, I would be trying to figure out what exactly you were doing on the car right after it last ran well. Perhaps you have notes or a log you keep of your progress or maybe just some pictures that'll help you figure it out. If it wasn't a specific part that you were working on at either installing or replacing, then it might have been something nearby you bumped loose while in there.

I would try and figure out a better timeline of when the problem started and what exactly changed at that point. Then focus your efforts looking there.

[Bullitt]

You said you had the car running well for sometime and then suddenly, a few months ago, it wouldn't start. Is this before you started the frame off restoration, or after you had begun putting the car back together?

If the car has not run well since before the restoration, I would suggest going back through your connections, one by one, and confirming not only that the routing is correct, but that each connection point is clean and secure.

If the car was running well after you had things put back together and then suddenly wasn't able to start, I would be trying to figure out what exactly you were doing on the car right after it last ran well. Perhaps you have notes or a log you keep of your progress or maybe just some pictures that'll help you figure it out. If it wasn't a specific part that you were working on at either installing or replacing, then it might have been something nearby you bumped loose while in there.

I would try and figure out a better timeline of when the problem started and what exactly changed at that point. Then focus your efforts looking there.

It has been running after the frame off. I have basically just been assembling side stripes and rub strips. I had a problem with high beam fuse being blown. The thing I did just before it would not start was to check relays and fuses... I have checked them again, cant find anything wrong.

[Jonathan]

It has been running after the frame off. I have basically just been assembling side stripes and rub strips. I had a problem with high beam fuse being blown. The thing I did just before it would not start was to check relays and fuses... I have checked them again, cant find anything wrong.

Did you solve the high beam fuse problem? What was the solution?

Is your battery in good shape and fully charged?

Would you be able to post some photos of those fuses and relays you checked? Perhaps someone on here might be able to spot something you're overlooking?

[Bullitt]

Did you solve the high beam fuse problem? What was the solution?

Is your battery in good shape and fully charged?

Would you be able to post some photos of those fuses and relays you checked? Perhaps someone on here might be able to spot something you're overlooking?

No not really, did not get to check it since it does not start. I tried switching high beam and low beam realys to see if one was bad. Still blew fuses. Relays are "new" never been used. Bought them back in 2007. And had them stored in a bag inside the house. Car started after this. Changed fuses, since it has been upgraded from sealed beam, someone said there could be more load on the fuses. Also read on deloreango that they recomended putting in larger fuses because of this. Car would not start before I changed fuses...

[David T]

According to manual if voltage between terminal 1 on coil and ground shows less than 0,5V there is a short circuit in ECU module. Mine shows 4,5V.... (Battery Voltage over 12V)

If you have over 11 volts on the battery and less than 6 on the coil terminal that would indicate a bad coil. Check the resistance of the primary of the coil. It should be between 0.95-1.4 ohms. If you are using a "performance" coil, they do not seem to live long in a Delorean. Get a stock coil.

[Bullitt]

If you have over 11 volts on the battery and less than 6 on the coil terminal that would indicate a bad coil. Check the resistance of the primary of the coil. It should be between 0.95-1.4 ohms. If you are using a "performance" coil, they do not seem to live long in a Delorean. Get a stock coil.

I just bought the coil from Deloreango, a Bosch coil. Car would not start before replacing as well. I have measured the coil. All seems good

[Jonathan]

No not really, did not get to check it since it does not start. I tried switching high beam and low beam realys to see if one was bad. Still blew fuses. Relays are "new" never been used. Bought them back in 2007. And had them stored in a bag inside the house. Car started after this. Changed fuses, since it has been upgraded from sealed beam, someone said there could be more load on the fuses. Also read on deloreango that they recomended putting in larger fuses because of this. Car would not start before I changed fuses...

Ok, let me try and get this straight:

1.) Frame off restoration nearing completion and car has been running well.
2.) As you are checking through the systems, you try the upgraded headlights and they blow the fuses (original fuses I see as being 20 Amp in fuse box spots 14 and 15).
3.) You swapped relays (never used spare ones you bought back in 2007) for the low and high beams (and assumingly put regular sized replacement fuses in for the ones that blew?).
4.) While the relay swapping test did not fix the headlight problem, the car itself would still start.
5.) You changed the headlight fuses to a larger type (how large, by the way?) but this has yet to be tested since the car now will not start.

Is this sequence correct?

What I am unclear about is what happened between steps 4 and 5 because from what you wrote, the car would still start after the relay swapping but then you say the car would not start before you changed fuses. It seems like there is something missing between those two steps?

[Bullitt]

Ok, let me try and get this straight:

1.) Frame off restoration nearing completion and car has been running well.
2.) As you are checking through the systems, you try the upgraded headlights and they blow the fuses (original fuses I see as being 20 Amp in fuse box spots 14 and 15).
3.) You swapped relays (never used spare ones you bought back in 2007) for the low and high beams (and assumingly put regular sized replacement fuses in for the ones that blew?).
4.) While the relay swapping test did not fix the headlight problem, the car itself would still start.
5.) You changed the headlight fuses to a larger type (how large, by the way?) but this has yet to be tested since the car now will not start.

Is this sequence correct?

What I am unclear about is what happened between steps 4 and 5 because from what you wrote, the car would still start after the relay swapping but then you say the car would not start before you changed fuses. It seems like there is something missing between those two steps?

Sequence is correct.

As far as I remember the car started after swapping relays. Then it stood for a few days and would not start again.

25 for low beam, 30 for high beam.

[DMC5180]

You said, you replaced the ignition resistor. Have you gone back and checked all the terminal connections on it. Oxidation within the female spade receptacles can still cause a high resistive poor connection.




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[Bullitt]

You said, you replaced the ignition resistor. Have you gone back and checked all the terminal connections on it. Oxidation within the female spade receptacles can still cause a high resistive poor connection.





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I will check properly!

[DMC5180]

Also confirm you have good connections of the coil wire at the Cap. I inadvertently knocked mine off the cap once when sticking my hand between the engine and back wall for something else I was working on.

I assume your are smelling raw fuel after cranking attempts, this would at least confirm the FP is running and it is an ignition issue.

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[Bitsyncmaster]

Does the engine fire at all. I guess every assumed no because you said no start.

[Jonathan]

Sequence is correct.

As far as I remember the car started after swapping relays. Then it stood for a few days and would not start again.

25 for low beam, 30 for high beam.

Ok, got it. The description that is. As for troubleshooting though, very few things would up and fail on a car that is "just sitting" there. A dead battery comes to mind, but not much else.

So, if it isn't a battery issue or some other idea someone might have about issues that could arise from a few days of sitting, then I'd assume we missed something that happened or was misinterpreted.

I still think it would be helpful if you posted some photos of the fuse and relay area, engine bay area including specific focus on the ballast resistor as well as the ignition coil, and perhaps the instrument cluster when you have the key turned to accessories (but not all the way to start the engine).

Oh, also, what changes were needed to accommodate these upgraded sealed beam headlights?

[David T]

Just to verify, you are checking the voltage on the WY wire, the wire that goes from the ballast resistor to the + terminal on the coil. You are getting less than 6 volts there with the key on, NOT cranking, and the battery voltage (with everything off) is over 11 volts. Try it with the other wire on the coil, the WS wire connected and not connected. If you do not get enough voltage to the coil you will not get any spark. Also recheck the connections to the ballast resistor. There is a schematic in your Service Manual at M:18:03. If you have sufficient voltage to the coil, and it is a good coil, the problem will be either in the wiring to the ECU module, the pick-up coil, or a problem in the distributor. Rare for the ECU to fail and the pick-up coil most often fails when it gets warm, not when it is cold. Wiring problems, especially at connectors, seems to be the most often cause for electrical problems.

[Bullitt]

Just to verify, you are checking the voltage on the WY wire, the wire that goes from the ballast resistor to the + terminal on the coil. You are getting less than 6 volts there with the key on, NOT cranking, and the battery voltage (with everything off) is over 11 volts. Try it with the other wire on the coil, the WS wire connected and not connected. If you do not get enough voltage to the coil you will not get any spark. Also recheck the connections to the ballast resistor. There is a schematic in your Service Manual at M:18:03. If you have sufficient voltage to the coil, and it is a good coil, the problem will be either in the wiring to the ECU module, the pick-up coil, or a problem in the distributor. Rare for the ECU to fail and the pick-up coil most often fails when it gets warm, not when it is cold. Wiring problems, especially at connectors, seems to be the most often cause for electrical problems.

Hmm.. Now i get 8,5 Volts on the + terminal. - terminal is just under 12 after cranking a few times

[Bullitt]

Ok, got it. The description that is. As for troubleshooting though, very few things would up and fail on a car that is "just sitting" there. A dead battery comes to mind, but not much else.

So, if it isn't a battery issue or some other idea someone might have about issues that could arise from a few days of sitting, then I'd assume we missed something that happened or was misinterpreted.

I still think it would be helpful if you posted some photos of the fuse and relay area, engine bay area including specific focus on the ballast resistor as well as the ignition coil, and perhaps the instrument cluster when you have the key turned to accessories (but not all the way to start the engine).

Oh, also, what changes were needed to accommodate these upgraded sealed beam headlights?

Will take photos. The change from sealed beam wss already done when I bought the car. But now I have a new main harness with standard fuses

[Bullitt]

According to manual if voltage between terminal 1 on coil and ground shows less than 0,5V there is a short circuit in ECU module. Mine shows 4,5V.... (Battery Voltage over 12V)

I Meant 0,45V...

[Bullitt]

Things got a little mixed up..

Terminal 1 - on coil has 0,45V to ground with ignition on.

Terminal 15 + on coil has 4,5V to ground with ignition on

Terminal 1 - on coil has 12V to battery + post with ignition on

Terminal 15 + on coil has 8,5V to battery + post with ignition on

Both terminals have 0V to ground with ignition off

Both terminals have 12,6V to battery + post with ignition off

[Bullitt]

Photos...
55392554005539955398553975539655395553945539355391 55401

[Bullitt]

The tach moves when I cranck up the car. I read somwhere that was a give away that the ECU was not bad.

I connected a test light to the plug for the distributor pickup coil, and had someone cranking the car. No pulsing light... Does that mean it is the pickup coil then? If i did this right...

[DMC5180]

If you don’t have a functioning pick up coil your RPM relay would not work either. The RPM relay relies on the pick up coil signal too turn the fuel pump on. Have verified the FP is operating? Or, that you at least you get a strong fuel smell from the exhaust after cranking.


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[Bullitt]

If you don’t have a functioning pick up coil your RPM relay would not work either. The RPM relay relies on the pick up coil signal too turn the fuel pump on. Have verified the FP is operating? Or, that you at least you get a strong fuel smell from the exhaust after cranking.


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I can hear fuel pump running for a few seconds when putting ignition on. Smell it too...

[DMC5180]

Okay, do you have a second person available to crank the engine while you look for spark?


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[Bitsyncmaster]

Your photo #7 shows you have a little more than 8 volts.

[Bullitt]

Does the engine fire at all. I guess every assumed no because you said no start.

Nope wont even try. However it was barely trying a few times right after problems started. I also tried spraying with start gas.

[Bullitt]

Your photo #7 shows you have a little more than 8 volts.

Photo 7 is when I crank the engine

[Bullitt]

Okay, do you have a second person available to crank the engine while you look for spark?


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Yep no spark from plug to ground or from coil wire to ground

[DMC5180]

Your resistor wiring configuration appears to be different than mine.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180218/6a2bac743b207b6eea1dd44813104d85.jpg

I have 2 wires at the Top Right connection. The clear or white covered terminal is a piggy back with the black housing clipped to it.




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[Bitsyncmaster]

Photo 7 is when I crank the engine

I never really looked at my volt gauge when starting the car, so I just did and mine also shows a little above what your shows. I know the battery does not drop that much so it's just something with the wiring to our gauge.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Nope wont even try. However it was barely trying a few times right after problems started. I also tried spraying with start gas.

That pretty much does says ignition is the problem. Did you also say your tach reads some RPM when cranking? That would also say the ECU is working since the tach uses the ignition coil signal as does the RPM relay to keep the fuel pump running.

[Bullitt]

That pretty much does says ignition is the problem. Did you also say your tach reads some RPM when cranking? That would also say the ECU is working since the tach uses the ignition coil signal as does the RPM relay to keep the fuel pump running.

That is correct. It reads some rpm while cranking. Needle jumps a little.

[Bullitt]

Your resistor wiring configuration appears to be different than mine.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180218/6a2bac743b207b6eea1dd44813104d85.jpg


I have 2 wires at the Top Right connection. The clear or white covered terminal is a piggy back with the black housing clipped to it.




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Hmm I need to check that..

[Bullitt]

I will perform a battery test tomorrow. Battery is old, but has the power to crank like hell...
Forgot to check the connectors on resistor for corrosion, so I will do that as well.
I read you could put a test light on negative terminal on coil to battery positive post and crank the engine. If it pulsed it meant ecu and pickup was ok.

[Bitsyncmaster]

After all the info in this thread, my guess is your ignition coil is bad. Do you have a spare coil to try?

Or it could be a bad connection from the ECU to the negative coil post. That connection goes through the bulkhead connector.

[Bullitt]

After all the info in this thread, my guess is your ignition coil is bad. Do you have a spare coil to try?

Or it could be a bad connection from the ECU to the negative coil post. That connection goes through the bulkhead connector.

I have the old coil. Problems were still there before I changed to the new coil. Main harness is new. But the wiring for the coil and such are old.

[Jonathan]

Your resistor wiring configuration appears to be different than mine.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180218/6a2bac743b207b6eea1dd44813104d85.jpg

I have 2 wires at the Top Right connection. The clear or white covered terminal is a piggy back with the black housing clipped to it.




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Photos...
55393

I think Dennis' "I spy with my little eye" observation of the ballast resistor wiring might be the culprit.

I don't see the double connection on the top right either. For as goofy and seemingly innocent as that ballast resistor is, my car went down for the count years ago because those wires weren't hooked up correctly.

I have the correct wiring like this:

55409

My own car looks like this:

55410

Which was years ago, but a photo taken right after fixing the wiring. Long story short, my car came to me on day one with that second connection on the upper right back around and connected in the lower left location. That ended up melting the crimped connection end of the wire and it came loose. Car wouldn't start with it disconnected. I finally realized where it was supposed to go (that being the first question and answer I got here on our magnificent forum a decade ago) and it's never been a problem since.

I don't see where the missing wire is though if it isn't bundled together already. It might be hanging down out of view somewhere? Or it might be together under that sheath... which if you pull back to see the two wires under it, maybe something will be obvious about why there isn't a good connection.

[DMC5180]

I’m thinking it might spliced under the black heat shrink. Just guessing though.


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[Ron]

Try taking the W/S off the (-) side of the coil. Put Bat(+) 12V on the (+) side of the coil. Now ground the (-) side of the coil momentarily and see if the coil fires each time you remove the ground. It should. If it does, your feed or trigger circuit is bad. You can connect a cheap tach meter to the W/S wire to check the triggering signal while you crank the engine over. If no good, you can get it off of the ICU, pin 16 since the tachometer in the instrument panel works. Jumper it to the coil (-) by itself to confirm that the signal is a good signal. I.E, it should spark then (and start if you replace the coil wire, assuming it isn't flooded to Hades by now ;-)

I'm betting with those suggesting a "bad" connection somewhere...probably on the triggering side rather than power from the resistor (or it is grounded).


EDIT: Trigger from the (+) side if you do the following-
You might find it easier to see the spark if you remove the coil wire and use a short piece of wire from there (main coil terminal) to ~1/4 inch away from the (-) coil terminal....

[Bullitt]

I think Dennis' "I spy with my little eye" observation of the ballast resistor wiring might be the culprit.

I don't see the double connection on the top right either. For as goofy and seemingly innocent as that ballast resistor is, my car went down for the count years ago because those wires weren't hooked up correctly.

I have the correct wiring like this:

55409

My own car looks like this:

55410

Which was years ago, but a photo taken right after fixing the wiring. Long story short, my car came to me on day one with that second connection on the upper right back around and connected in the lower left location. That ended up melting the crimped connection end of the wire and it came loose. Car wouldn't start with it disconnected. I finally realized where it was supposed to go (that being the first question and answer I got here on our magnificent forum a decade ago) and it's never been a problem since.

I don't see where the missing wire is though if it isn't bundled together already. It might be hanging down out of view somewhere? Or it might be together under that sheath... which if you pull back to see the two wires under it, maybe something will be obvious about why there isn't a good connection.

Yup the wires were spliced in the heat shrink..

[David T]

The best advice I can give you now would be to get ahold of the C1 Ignition Diagnostic Chart in the DMC Technical Manual. It has all of the procedures to check the ignition system. If you have enough voltage at the coil and the coil is good the possibilities include:
Wiring and connectors between the coil, the ECU, and the pick-up coil
The ECU or the pick-up coil
A mechanical problem in the distributor.
C1 explains in detail what to do and how to do it.

[Bullitt]

Hi!

Checked my old coil and my new coil:

Primary: should have 0,95-1,4 ohm. New: 0,95 ohm, Old: 2,0 ohm

Secondary: should have 5.5-8.5 K ohm. New 9,29 K ohm, Old: 9,8 K ohm

Resistor should have 1 ohm, 0,5 ohm each. If I measure from one side to the other both upper and lower say 1 ohm? Same on old and new.


I put a battery tester on my fully charged 540 A battery, and it measures 307 A. Tester tells me to change the battery....
Battery Cranks like hell and long. Could perhaps turn faster? Dont know..... Could this have anything to do with the reason I get no spark?

Also checked the gap on the plugs, and the gap was much to large. Adjusted them according to the manual. (Keep in mind the car ran fine like they were...)

Checked that the blue/white wire from ignition relay to the resitorpack was connected.


Put a Ignition tester light between distributor and wire from coil to distributor, and it glows while I crank.
I pull off the distributor cap and inspect the rotor an cap, and find some oxidation. (I am going to buy new ones, but I don't have them at hand right now)
i brushed off the oxidation and cleaned them up. Checked that the rotor in fact turns while I crank.
Put the rotor and cap back on.
Installed the Ignition tester light between a spark plug and the wire from distributor.
Cranked the egnine. No spark, except from when I shut of the ignition. (On one of the two plug wires I checked)
Hoped the cleaning of the cap and rotor should give me some spark in the test light.....

Read somewhere that if you put an ice pick light tester on the negative post on coil and on to the positive battery cable post, the light should go off and on while cranking,
It did, but I would not say it went off, but rather that the light dimmed off and on..... If this happend that meant that the ECU should be good, as the TACH reading also said.

Mesured the resictance in the pick up coil, which fluctuated while I was cranking, mening that the pick up coil should be good as well. (I read somewhere....)

Keep in mind I disconnected the RPM relay to stop fuel pump while cranking. (Or does the RPM relay have anything to say on the ignition?


So anyways, I guess Ill be changing the battery, distributor Cap and rotor.

Any input?

55457554585545955460

[Gruffalo]

Hi!

Installed the Ignition tester light between a spark plug and the wire from distributor.
Cranked the egnine. No spark, except from when I shut of the ignition. (On one of the two plug wires I checked)



I’ve read about that exact same symptom in a different “no spark” thread here on dmctalk. Or maybe on the eurotech forum.

Sadly I don’t remember what the cause was...


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[Bullitt]

Checking spark from coil to distributor:
https://www.facebook.com/sveinapeland/videos/10155895382510259/?t=0

Checking spark on plugs:
https://www.facebook.com/sveinapeland/videos/10155895393000259/?t=0

Connected a test light between negative post on coil and battery positive post to see if light flashes on and off, meaning Pickup and ECU should be ok:
https://www.facebook.com/sveinapeland/videos/10155895399200259/?t=0

[DMC5180]

Did you ever get spark to jump from the coil tower to a ground or neg post on the coil?


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[Ron]

Either coil should spark according to those readings....try the test I posted above to confirm if the below doesn't help.

If the battery will crank the engine over ok by itself, it is hot enough for spark.


...
Put a Ignition tester light between distributor and wire from coil to distributor, and it glows while I crank.
I pull off the distributor cap and inspect the rotor an cap, and find some oxidation. (I am going to buy new ones, but I don't have them at hand right now)
i brushed off the oxidation and cleaned them up. Checked that the rotor in fact turns while I crank.
Put the rotor and cap back on.
Installed the Ignition tester light between a spark plug and the wire from distributor.
Cranked the egnine. No spark, except from when I shut of the ignition. (On one of the two plug wires I checked)
Hoped the cleaning of the cap and rotor should give me some spark in the test light.....

Read somewhere that if you put an ice pick light tester on the negative post on coil and on to the positive battery cable post, the light should go off and on while cranking,
It did, but I would not say it went off, but rather that the light dimmed off and on..... If this happend that meant that the ECU should be good, as the TACH reading also said.

Mesured the resictance in the pick up coil, which fluctuated while I was cranking, mening that the pick up coil should be good as well. (I read somewhere....)

Keep in mind I disconnected the RPM relay to stop fuel pump while cranking. (Or does the RPM relay have anything to say on the ignition?


Any input?

Sparking only when you shut the ignition off suggests that the coils trigger circuit is always grounded. (It would fire whichever plug the rotor happened to be pointed at when the key was turned to OFF.) But if that were the case, the ignition tester (and tach) shouldn't be indicating continuous spark while you crank it over.
So, the only thing I can think of that may fit is a cap with its coil terminal shorted to the plug terminal feeding the only plug you are seeing fire...

=====

No. The ignition doesn't need the RPM relay.
If there are no shorted wires etc. between them it doesn't matter WRT no spark. The relay uses the tach signal to know it is ok to supply power to the fuel pump and CPR.

P.S. Your Facebook links require an account....

[Bullitt]

Either coil should spark according to those readings....try the test I posted above to confirm if the below doesn't help.

If the battery will crank the engine over ok by itself, it is hot enough for spark.

Sparking only when you shut the ignition off suggests that the coils trigger circuit is always grounded. (It would fire whichever plug the rotor happened to be pointed at when the key was turned to OFF.) But if that were the case, the ignition tester (and tach) shouldn't be indicating continuous spark while you crank it over.
So, the only thing I can think of that may fit is a cap with its coil terminal shorted to the plug terminal feeding the only plug you are seeing fire...

=====

No. The ignition doesn't need the RPM relay.
If there are no shorted wires etc. between them it doesn't matter WRT no spark. The relay uses the tach signal to know it is ok to supply power to the fuel pump and CPR.

P.S. Your Facebook links require an account....

Hey!

Sorry Ron, I totally missed your earlier post.
I will try that today.

Ill post the videos here.

[Bullitt]

Testing Distributor from negative terminal to battery positive post Delorean
https://youtu.be/oHRR7ZB-ufs

Testing spark from coil wire to distributor cap Delorean
https://youtu.be/bmkuDlzQZ0A

Testing spark from sparkplug wire to sparkplug Delorean
https://youtu.be/x3NxgwJnDpI

[minispeedstar]

Was the king lead from the coil to the distributor ever changed? Or is it still the old red one?

[Bullitt]

Was the king lead from the coil to the distributor ever changed? Or is it still the old red one?

Well... Its barely used, but bought 8 years ago. Thinking of the condition the cap and rotor is in, I ordered new wires and plugs with the cap and rotor.

Last time it would not start it was exactly this I had to change. This was right before I started the restoration.

[minispeedstar]

Original NOS? As I've found they don't age well if it's an original red type lead.

[Bullitt]

Original NOS? As I've found they don't age well if it's an original red type lead.

Nope, it was black.. That is all I know!

[Ron]

I reread everything and it sounds like the spark went from none to what you have now...
Did you check for actual spark off of the distributor end of the coil wire to the engine (ground) after using the ignition tester there? If not, ever?
...seems if things don't change again, it should be acting normal up to there now.

[Bullitt]

I reread everything and it sounds like the spark went from none to what you have now...
Did you checked for actual spark off of the distributor end of the coil wire to the engine (ground) after using the ignition tester there?

If you are referring to the test you suggested earlier, I have not been home yet to try. Will likely not try it until tomorrow after work. It probably had spark from the coil to the distributor cap all the time (but not further). But i was not able to provoke it until I got the ignition test lamp.

[Ron]

If you are referring to the test you suggested earlier, I have not been home yet to try. Will likely not try it until tomorrow after work. It probably had spark from the coil to the distributor cap all the time (but not further). But i was not able to provoke it until I got the ignition test lamp.
Not exactly...why I asked "ever".
The first test tells whether the coil will fire IF all else is OK (by bypassing everything else), to eliminate it. (You had no spark at the time.)

The other test tells whether the spark is getting to the distributor cap. If it is, you can forget about everything from there back (the coil wire, coil, ignition wiring, ICU, etc.) If I have it right, the ignition tester indicated spark was getting that far. (Some spark now)
...with everything hooked up normal, pull the coil wire out of the distributor and see if spark will jump from it to ground. If the spark is OK, the problem is from there on, i.e. the cap and/or rotor not distributing the spark to the plug wires and on down to the plugs. Divide and conquer.

[Bullitt]

Try taking the W/S off the (-) side of the coil. Put Bat(+) 12V on the (+) side of the coil. Now ground the (-) side of the coil momentarily and see if the coil fires each time you remove the ground. It should. If it does, your feed or trigger circuit is bad. You can connect a cheap tach meter to the W/S wire to check the triggering signal while you crank the engine over. If no good, you can get it off of the ICU, pin 16 since the tachometer in the instrument panel works. Jumper it to the coil (-) by itself to confirm that the signal is a good signal. I.E, it should spark then (and start if you replace the coil wire, assuming it isn't flooded to Hades by now ;-)

I'm betting with those suggesting a "bad" connection somewhere...probably on the triggering side rather than power from the resistor (or it is grounded).

You might find it easier to see the spark if you remove the coil wire and use a short piece of wire from there (main coil terminal) to ~1/4 inch away from the (-) coil terminal....

RON: Try taking the W/S off the (-) side of the coil. Put Bat(+) 12V on the (+) side of the coil. Now ground the (-) side of the coil momentarily and see if the coil fires each time you remove the ground. It should.

Well it did not... I cant get a spark from grounding the wire from the coil to the distributor cap either, but using the ignition plug light tester, betwen the wire and cap it sure glows while cranking.

[DMC5180]

RON: Try taking the W/S off the (-) side of the coil. Put Bat(+) 12V on the (+) side of the coil. Now ground the (-) side of the coil momentarily and see if the coil fires each time you remove the ground. It should.

Well it did not... I cant get a spark from grounding the wire from the coil to the distributor cap either, but using the ignition plug light tester, betwen the wire and cap it sure glows while cranking.

Were you using the high tension coil wire or just a regular wire to jump the ark to the cap? Do you have an old coil wire to try the test with ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Bullitt]

Were you using the high tension coil wire or just a regular wire to jump the ark to the cap? Do you have an old coil wire to try the test with ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I used both. Don't have a spare at the moment. Ordered new plugs, wires, cap and rotor as they were due for a change anyways.

[DMC5180]

And you were able too jump a strong long spark from the coil tower to the neg post on the coil?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Bullitt]

And you were able too jump a strong long spark from the coil tower to the neg post on the coil?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Okay, then i misunderstood, I though he meant I should ground the negative(-) post with the w/s wire disconnected. Come to think of it that does not make sense since they are both ground...? I will try tomorrow.

[DMC5180]

Yeah, I’ve seen my coil arc down the tower to the neg post while the engine was running. ( misfiring)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Ron]

Okay, then i misunderstood, I though he meant I should ground the negative(-) post with the w/s wire disconnected. Come to think of it that does not make sense since they are both ground...? I will try tomorrow. That is exactly what I meant. You do NOT want to involve the w/s wire, only the coil.
Here is a basic point system:
55485

When the points close, voltage across the coil +/- 'charges' the windings up. When they break connection, the coil fires.

We can replace the points and condenser with a simple switch (since the points are just a fancy switch, and the condenser is only for the points contact durability):
55487
It uses a plug and coil wire to observe spark, but we want to test the coil alone, like this:
55488
Note it is triggered on the (+) side of the coil instead.
To be clear, use this way, making sure the air gap is reasonable....

I shouldn't have added, "You might find it easier to see the spark if you remove the coil wire and use a short piece of wire from there (main coil terminal) to ~1/4 inch away from the (-) coil terminal...."! -- The test works using a coil wire and grounded plug. With a short piece of wire, it would probably jump to the grounding wire but it's not 100% and/or you might not see it. Sorry if that is what you tried instead of using a plug and wire. I edited in a note for future readers...

EDIT: I found these that might help:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rJYJ3KvPhhY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5kvj_d72WTo

[Bullitt]

That is exactly what I meant. You do NOT want to involve the w/s wire, only the coil.
Here is a basic point system:
55485

When the points close, voltage across the coil +/- 'charges' the windings up. When they break connection, the coil fires.

We can replace the points and condenser with a simple switch (since the points are just a fancy switch, and the condenser is only for the points contact durability):
55487
It uses a plug and coil wire to observe spark, but we want to test the coil alone, like this:
55488
Note it is triggered on the (+) side of the coil instead.
To be clear, use this way, making sure the air gap is reasonable....

I shouldn't have added, "You might find it easier to see the spark if you remove the coil wire and use a short piece of wire from there (main coil terminal) to ~1/4 inch away from the (-) coil terminal...."! -- The test works using a coil wire and grounded plug. With a short piece of wire, it would probably jump to the grounding wire but it's not 100% and/or you might not see it. Sorry if that is what you tried instead of using a plug and wire. I edited in a note for future readers...

EDIT: I found these that might help:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rJYJ3KvPhhY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5kvj_d72WTo

Thanks!
Tested it now like the videos show, and also in the car with w/s wire disconnected and using the wire harness for the + side. It sparked doing it both ways.

[Ron]

Thanks!
Tested it now like the videos show, and also in the car with w/s wire disconnected and using the wire harness for the + side. It sparked doing it both ways.Great! If the spark was strong, the coil and feed are OK. Now try it with the W/S triggering it instead of manually grounding it, by preforming the test in post 63 (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?16222-No-spark&p=231435&viewfull=1#post231435). Make sure you let it spark to ground (the block)...with a jumper wire (then the coil wire to prove it if you haven't already;-)

Still sounds like the cap-rotor since it was pulsing (trying to trigger) ever since you saw 'some' spark, else an intermittent problem...

[Bullitt]

Great! If the spark was strong, the coil and feed are OK. Now try it with the W/S triggering it instead of manually grounding it, by preforming the test in post 63 (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?16222-No-spark&p=231435&viewfull=1#post231435). Make sure you let it spark to ground (the block)...with a jumper wire (then the coil wire to prove it if you haven't already;-)

Still sounds like the cap-rotor since it was pulsing (trying to trigger) ever since you saw 'some' spark, else an intermittent problem...

Weird....
Got the new plugs, plugwires, cap and rotor yesterday and replaced them all.
No luck starting it.
I did not perform the last test with the ws wire connected until i changed the cap and rotor etc...
There was no spark. But now there is no spark when I ground the - on the coil either...

I have checked/measured the ws wire down to the ecu and idle speed ecu... And it is all good. I have replaced some spade connectors around the resistor and checked/measured them as well.

[Bitsyncmaster]

The stock ECU will keep the negative side of the coil grounded when the engine is not running. So you would need to pull that wire off the coil to do the grounding test.

Actually if all was working, you could just touch and remove that wire with the key set to on to get a spark. But with the engine not running your coil voltage will be lower than normal so you may not see a hot spark.

It's best to test the spark with a plug wire from the coil attached to a spark plug. If you test through the cap your rotor may not be pointed to the plug your testing.

[Ron]

+1 ...But he did the wrong test...


Weird....
Got the new plugs, plugwires, cap and rotor yesterday and replaced them all.
No luck starting it.
I did not perform the last test with the ws wire connected until i changed the cap and rotor etc...
There was no spark. But now there is no spark when I ground the - on the coil either...

I have checked/measured the ws wire down to the ecu and idle speed ecu... And it is all good. I have replaced some spade connectors around the resistor and checked/measured them as well.
Ok, then the problem is intermittent, or you unknowingly changed something...
I see...After seeing that it didn't work with the cap etc. on, you should try proving the coil again. But not by grounding the (-) coil terminal (because of what Dave said and the other things I mentioned before with that test). Trigger it from the (+) side instead... Sounds like it is not triggering, but let's go back to square one just in case and to avoid confusion-

Set the test up exactly as below - no shortcuts, to see if it is the coil:
55550
If you get a strong spark, the coil is working properly. Otherwise the coil is bad.

=====

Next, the feed. Instead of feeding the momentary switch with battery (+) voltage, feed it with the stock feed wire from the resistors. (It is usually W/Y or W.)
If you get a strong spark, the feed is working properly too. Otherwise, the problem is along the W/S wire back >>> toward the resistors >>>.

=====

Try the above first (in order, with a hot battery) so we are on the same page...
If OK, the only thing left is the trigger circuit or an intermittent problem(s).

=====

You said you have checked the W/S wire back to the ICU. Note it branches several times. To be sure the W/S wire itself is OK requires disconnecting it from everything (Coil, Tach, ICU, RPM Relay, and Idle Speed Relay) then confirming that, in any key position, it has continuity to each plug/end, is not grounded, and has no power on it. A lot to do, especially the tach... So you might first try- Starting with everything stock, unplug the RPM Relay, Idle Speed Relay, and Main Coil Wire. Then see if it sparks from the loose end of a jumper wire inserted into the main coil terminal across an air gap to the (-) terminal when you crank the engine over with the key.
If it does, plug the Idle Speed Relay back in, then the RPM Realy, one at at time, to see which circuit might be causing it to quit sparking...
At this point we can decide how to continue with what you find...

Watch how the tach acts with all of the above.

[David T]

When you are checking for spark the best place to do it is the wire coming out of the coil. That way you are not also checking the distributor. Once you verify spark out of the coil the next place to verify it would be to remove a spark plug and see if you get a spark there. If you are not getting a spark out of the coil there is no need to check a plug. If you aren't getting spark at the coil check the primary wire coming off the ballast resistor at the coil for voltage as I described before. It will turn out to be a wiring problem, a bad coil, or a bad ECU. The first two are likely, the 3rd possibility is unlikely. You should get a nice, blue spark at least 1/4" long as you crank. Check it to the block of the motor. Have the end of the wire held steady about 1/4", do NOT hold with your hand!

[Bullitt]

+1 ...But he did the wrong test...


Ok, then the problem is intermittent, or you unknowingly changed something...
I see...After seeing that it didn't work with the cap etc. on, you should try proving the coil again. But not by grounding the (-) coil terminal (because of what Dave said and the other things I mentioned before with that test). Trigger it from the (+) side instead... Sounds like it is not triggering, but let's go back to square one just in case and to avoid confusion-

Set the test up exactly as below - no shortcuts, to see if it is the coil:
55550
If you get a strong spark, the coil is working properly. Otherwise the coil is bad.

=====

Next, the feed. Instead of feeding the momentary switch with battery (+) voltage, feed it with the stock feed wire from the resistors. (It is usually W/Y or W.)
If you get a strong spark, the feed is working properly too. Otherwise, the problem is along the W/S wire back >>> toward the resistors >>>.

=====

Try the above first (in order, with a hot battery) so we are on the same page...
If OK, the only thing left is the trigger circuit or an intermittent problem(s).

=====

You said you have checked the W/S wire back to the ICU. Note it branches several times. To be sure the W/S wire itself is OK requires disconnecting it from everything (Coil, Tach, ICU, RPM Relay, and Idle Speed Relay) then confirming that, in any key position, it has continuity to each plug/end, is not grounded, and has no power on it. A lot to do, especially the tach... So you might first try- Starting with everything stock, unplug the RPM Relay, Idle Speed Relay, and Main Coil Wire. Then see if it sparks from the loose end of a jumper wire inserted into the main coil terminal across an air gap to the (-) terminal when you crank the engine over with the key.
If it does, plug the Idle Speed Relay back in, then the RPM Realy, one at at time, to see which circuit might be causing it to quit sparking...
At this point we can decide how to continue with what you find...

Watch how the tach acts with all of the above.

Checked the coil again.. It was ok. Next i checked with the + connected (w/y and w wire) while grounding - side... No spark. But when i pulled the upper spade connector I got a big blue spark from the coil.... But only when it was being pulled and connected. It also sparked from the resistor. Should it do that?

See video

https://youtu.be/h6f3ubNq4Dw

[Bullitt]

Upper right connection on resistor says 11,7 volts, lower right says 3,99 Volts. Left says 7, 83. Resistor is extremely hot. Could it be a short somwhere?

[Bitsyncmaster]

Upper right connection on resistor says 11,7 volts, lower right says 3,99 Volts. Left says 7, 83. Resistor is extremely hot. Could it be a short somwhere?

With the engine not running the resistors will run hotter than with the engine running. The stock ECU keeps the coil at ground and therefor your pumping max current through the resistors.

[Ron]

Checked the coil again.. It was ok. Next i checked with the + connected (w/y and w wire) while grounding - side... No spark. But when i pulled the upper spade connector I got a big blue spark from the coil.... But only when it was being pulled and connected. It also sparked from the resistor. Should it do that?

See video

https://youtu.be/h6f3ubNq4Dw
To be sure- Most schematics show a W/Y wire (feed) and a Y wire (condenser). Others show a W (feed) and a Y (condenser) wire, which I have seen on a couple of cars.
Assuming you meant the "W/Y and Y wire", it is acting exactly as it should so far...

It sounds like you were triggering it from the wrong side again- Instead of "+ connected (w/y and w wire) while grounding - side...", it should be, the ground connected while connecting-disconnecting (w/y wire) + side.

Remember, when you connect a coil's (+) and (-), it charges up. When you disconnect it, by removing the (+) OR (-), is when it fires, to the nearest ground it can reach. Normally this "triggering" is done on the (-) side. It will fire ONCE only, each time the circuit is broke (normally triggered via the ICU).

If I follow you correctly- When you removed the ground from the (-) side, breaking the feed circuit, you removed the only ground that the spark could reach! (Now, if you had a wire in the main terminal close enough to another ground source (block, cap, etc) instead, it should have sparked to it. But that is not the test...)

Follow the test in the last post closely. Ground the (-) side (not with the W/S wire) THEN connect the W/Y wire to (+) side THEN disconnect (or switch off) the W/Y wire looking for spark from the main terminal to (-) or ground .
[IF everything is correct, this is the similar to removing the spade connector feeding the resistors and why it gave the big blue spark from the main terminal, as it should...but also not the test.]

I agree with Dave about the hot resistors and sparks in the vid. But you would have the cart before the horse using using the W/S wire at this point...

PM sent

[Bullitt]

To be sure- Most schematics show a W/Y wire (feed) and a Y wire (condenser). Others show a W (feed) and a Y (condenser) wire, which I have seen on a couple of cars.
Assuming you meant the "W/Y and Y wire", it is acting exactly as it should so far...

It sounds like you were triggering it from the wrong side again- Instead of "+ connected (w/y and w wire) while grounding - side...", it should be, the ground connected while connecting-disconnecting (w/y wire) + side.

Remember, when you connect a coil's (+) and (-), it charges up. When you disconnect it, by removing the (+) OR (-), is when it fires, to the nearest ground it can reach. Normally this "triggering" is done on the (-) side. It will fire ONCE only, each time the circuit is broke (normally triggered via the ICU).

If I follow you correctly- When you removed the ground from the (-) side, breaking the feed circuit, you removed the only ground that the spark could reach! (Now, if you had a wire in the main terminal close enough to another ground source (block, cap, etc) instead, it should have sparked to it. But that is not the test...)

Follow the test in the last post closely. Ground the (-) side (not with the W/S wire) THEN connect the W/Y wire to (+) side THEN disconnect (or switch off) the W/Y wire looking for spark from the main terminal to (-) or ground .
[IF everything is correct, this is the similar to removing the spade connector feeding the resistors and why it gave the big blue spark from the main terminal, as it should...but also not the test.]

I agree with Dave about the hot resistors and sparks in the vid. But you would have the cart before the horse using using the W/S wire at this point...

PM sent

Hehe!

Okay! I guess it works fine then, but will do as you say after work today and test with a switch on + side with - grounded.
Electrical is not my strong side. I am an autobody guy....... :)

[Bullitt]

Either coil should spark according to those readings....try the test I posted above to confirm if the below doesn't help.

If the battery will crank the engine over ok by itself, it is hot enough for spark.

Sparking only when you shut the ignition off suggests that the coils trigger circuit is always grounded. (It would fire whichever plug the rotor happened to be pointed at when the key was turned to OFF.) But if that were the case, the ignition tester (and tach) shouldn't be indicating continuous spark while you crank it over.
So, the only thing I can think of that may fit is a cap with its coil terminal shorted to the plug terminal feeding the only plug you are seeing fire...

=====

No. The ignition doesn't need the RPM relay.
If there are no shorted wires etc. between them it doesn't matter WRT no spark. The relay uses the tach signal to know it is ok to supply power to the fuel pump and CPR.

P.S. Your Facebook links require an account....

Hi!
Just read this again:

Sparking only when you shut the ignition off suggests that the coils trigger circuit is always grounded. (It would fire whichever plug the rotor happened to be pointed at when the key was turned to OFF.) But if that were the case, the ignition tester (and tach) shouldn't be indicating continuous spark while you crank it over.
So, the only thing I can think of that may fit is a cap with its coil terminal shorted to the plug terminal feeding the only plug you are seeing fire...

I am not sure I follow: "a cap with its coil terminal shorted to the plug terminal"
How would this be possible?

[Ron]

Hehe!

Okay! I guess it works fine then, but will do as you say after work today and test with a switch on + side with - grounded.
Electrical is not my strong side. I am an autobody guy....... :)Yes, double check on + side!
LOL- I can guarantee you that my bodywork skills are worse than your electrical skills. I can shoot one but when it comes to the last bit of prep resurfacing, I totally suck...too low/high>over correct>too high/low>get POed>take a break>repeat>>>call my painter and contribute to his retirement fund.



I am not sure I follow: "a cap with its coil terminal shorted to the plug terminal"
How would this be possible?The most likely way would be a carbon trace in the cap.

When the spark jumps from the rotor to the plug wire terminals inside the cap, carbon particles are created. Cracks in the cap help the particles collect/build up, offering an alternate path for the spark to follow. (Moisture or any other foreign material can help carbon collect...or offer alternate paths themselves.) If the path goes to the wrong plug terminal, you get a crossfire. You may not be able to see the cracks or traces.
[If the rotor has carbon buildup, it can go to the shaft (ground) and you get a misfire. If there is carbon or moisture etc. throughout the cap, the spark will follow the path offering the least resistance, which would be along the shortest plug wire (assuming the wires are of the same material, plug gaps are the same, etc....)]

EXAMPLES (https://www.google.com/search?q=carbon+traces+in+cap&rlz=1C1VSNG_enUS690US690&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=EqrWzkGV_RV55M%253A%252CdTmwVcYPQdtDuM%252C_&usg=__hbLfxru_IqReduStPyhVRbPJHYo%3D&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiri8O6xdrZAhUl5oMKHY99Au4Q9QEIOTAB#imgd ii=Hdu7b52XhLi-mM:&imgrc=EqrWzkGV_RV55M:)

The new cap and rotor should eliminate all of this, if the distributor is clean.

[Bullitt]

https://youtu.be/jdwpAG6AB18

Watch video.

I have everything connected as usual, but with a switch on +side of coil and a plugwire from coil with a plug to ground.
Then all is good? Or is it too weak spark?

[Bullitt]

https://youtu.be/jdwpAG6AB18

Watch video.

I have everything connected as usual, but with a switch on +side of coil and a plugwire from coil with a plug to ground.
Then all is good? Or is it too weak spark?

With everything connected and checking for sparl on cylinder 3. Only sparks when I turn of ignition.

https://youtu.be/mxRb8VGTPuU

[Bullitt]

https://youtu.be/jdwpAG6AB18

Watch video.

I have everything connected as usual, but with a switch on +side of coil and a plugwire from coil with a plug to ground.
Then all is good? Or is it too weak spark?

When putting the switch on the - side to trigger it, there is no spark on plug...

[Bullitt]

With everything connected, I put an extra wire from pin 16 on ecu (w/s) and up to minus side on coil. Did not help..

[Bullitt]

Okay guys! I got the car started!!

I put on the old coil and it fired right up!

So... The main problem was the distributor cap and rotor.
Why my new coil does not work I have no clue...
Can I have fried it somehow?

And by the way, thanks for all your help!!

[Bitsyncmaster]

Okay guys! I got the car started!!

I put on the old coil and it fired right up!

So... The main problem was the distributor cap and rotor.
Why my new coil does not work I have no clue...
Can I have fried it somehow?

And by the way, thanks for all your help!!

Yea......

Is your new coil the same as OEM? I would not think you could have damaged the coil.

[Bullitt]

Yea......

Is your new coil the same as OEM? I would not think you could have damaged the coil.

The new coil that does not work is the Chrome Bosch unit that Deloreango sells. My old working one is a black one. (Bosch i guess)

[Bitsyncmaster]

The new coil that does not work is the Chrome Bosch unit that Deloreango sells. My old working one is a black one. (Bosch i guess)

My OEM coil was blue. It also had a very low primary resistance of about 0.4 ohms (what I remember). I would think the DeLoreango coil would match the OEM coil specifications.

[Ron]

Okay guys! I got the car started!!

I put on the old coil and it fired right up!

So... The main problem was the distributor cap and rotor.
Why my new coil does not work I have no clue...
Can I have fried it somehow?

And by the way, thanks for all your help!!
COOL!

I doubt you fried the coil too...shake it and if you here/feel oil sloshing, that's at least part of its problem...otherwise it sounds like it is low on smoke instead. :deviltail:

[David T]

This is not the first time someone had a problem with coils. It seems the Delorean ignition system is rather particular about them. Often when an owner puts a "performance" coil on the car it either won't work or fails very quickly. The OEM coil is a low failure item even though they are getting old. Caps and rotors do fail because of age or if the car got very wet. The original Bosch parts appear to have been of very high quality, often better than new parts!

[Bitsyncmaster]

Look here at post #31 for the way I tested the primary resistance of the stock coil at 0.387 ohms.

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?13649-Ignition-ECU-operation-HEI/page4&highlight=coil+resistance