Door lock solenoid headache

[Kevin 02530]

Hey all,

I thought passenger door lock solenoid was junk so I replaced it and unfortunately that didn't solve my problem. My door locks function normally when they are locked manually. I can once in a while get the passenger door to lock from the drivers side with the key or the interior lock but it won't typically unlock it. The solenoid doesn't move very much when I try to lock/unlock. I don't think it's an adjustment issue at this point since it worked fine up until late in the season last year. Everything inside the door seems to be moving freely. Could this be a relay issue? Any advice appreciated.

[Elvis]

Hi Kevin,

first of all - please us the search- it's all out there.

Of course you have installed the 10A fuse, right ?
(and of course you have read and understood why and what it means when the fuse burns ?!)

you really use a new solenoid ?

you can open the door lock ECU and with both doors closed - kneeing on the passenger seat -
you can push the relays manually.
Not more than a second !
how do the locks / solenoids react ?

If a solenoid is too weak, it is either burned or there is an unwanted resistance somewhere.
The connector at the ECU could be a problem,
but most likely you have water and rust in your roof top under the T-panel - there are the
other connectors.

[DMC-81]

I wonder if your Bellcrank switches (100853) are corroded enough to make it flakey.

By the way, here's my door lock adventure in this thread if it helps any, as I had a similar problem: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?13059-Assessing-OEM-Door-Lock-Module-(DLM)-and-solenoids&highlight=Assessing+lock

[Kevin 02530]

I wonder if your Bellcrank switches (100853) are corroded enough to make it flakey.

By the way, here's my door lock adventure in this thread if it helps any, as I had a similar problem: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?13059-Assessing-OEM-Door-Lock-Module-(DLM)-and-solenoids&highlight=Assessing+lock

Great read! Thank you guys! Lots of helpful info in here.


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[David T]

The solenoid is driven directly from the door lock relay so dirty door switches won't cause a "weaK" solenoid. As Elvis said, it will be a burnt solenoid, a problem with the door lock module or the wiring between the module and the solenoid. One test would be swapping the door lock modules and see if the problem moves with the solenoid.

[DMC-81]

The solenoid is driven directly from the door lock relay so dirty door switches won't cause a "weaK" solenoid. As Elvis said, it will be a burnt solenoid, a problem with the door lock module or the wiring between the module and the solenoid. One test would be swapping the door lock modules and see if the problem moves with the solenoid.

David, the electrical switches activate the relay /DLM at the start of the process (like turning on a light), so even though the (opposite) solenoid is driven from the relay, it is prudent to clean the switches before looking for a wiring problem. As part of my troubleshooting process, I needed to do exactly that to get both solenoids to reliably fire (or short as the case was).

As there is only one DLM, I can't see how they can be swapped, unless you mean the solenoids, but Kevin said that he replaced the passenger solenoid and the problem still exists, so swapping them wouldn't help much in my opinion.

[Elvis]

complicated again...

open that module and push the relays while the doors are closed.

that takes 5 minutes altogether, opening the doors takes several hours !

[Kevin 02530]

complicated again...

open that module and push the relays while the doors are closed.

that takes 5 minutes altogether, opening the doors takes several hours !

So to simplify my understanding here is that I should first clean the wipe switch in the door, then inline fuse the red wire coming from the DLM with a 10 amp fuse. Then test the relays manually, if the fuse blows my solenoids are most likely junk or the relays could be shot as well? Thanks guys.


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[Bitsyncmaster]

So to simplify my understanding here is that I should first clean the wipe switch in the door, then inline fuse the red wire coming from the DLM with a 10 amp fuse. Then test the relays manually, if the fuse blows my solenoids are most likely junk or the relays could be shot as well? Thanks guys.


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If you manually press the relay, you may blow the 10 amps fuse. It depends how long you press the relay. Even with new solenoids your powering both sides at the same time and drawing more than 10 amps. Normally the DLM actuates the relays for less than one second so it's not enough time for the fuse to blow.

[Kevin 02530]

Thanks Dave!


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[David T]

If the door switch can activate the relays in the DLM that is enough for the DLM to operate the solenoids. If the DLM can't activate both solenoids properly the problem is further "down the chain" than the switch that initiates the process. Manually pressing the relay isn't definitive because you are still using the contacts in the relay. It is possible the solenoid he put into the passenger door is no good so the best test would be to put in a known good one which is in the driver's door. I agree it is a lot of work but it will tell you what is wrong. I hate buying parts to "throw" at a problem and in the process not actually fixing it but R & R ing a lot of good parts. It is wasteful and worse, you disturb things so by the time you are done you may have introduced more problems than you are fixing. I much prefer to troubleshoot and diagnose instead of "shotgunning" by throwing parts at a problem till you get lucky. When the Central Locking System is not working well the best thing to do is to go over ALL of the adjustments in BOTH doors to get it to work correctly. It also doesn't hurt to clean and lubricate all of the mechanisms.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I don't think the left and right solenoids can be interchanged.

[David T]

I don't think the left and right solenoids can be interchanged.

Good point. The parts manual does show 2 different part #'s so they are probably handed. Would still be possible to just electrically switch them and see if it feels better or worse. My guess is the problem is with the passenger mechanism and not so much with the solenoid anyway. If the mechanism is out of adjustment or is sluggish because of old, hard, dry lubrication (or the lack of any) it may be more than the solenoid can overcome. It makes a BIG difference when you take the latches out and clean them and put fresh grease on them. Makes the locks snap hard and fast! After 30 + years the grease is more like sticky glue and if it is cold it is even worse. I would tend to think it is not a solenoid problem because the poster said he put a new one in and still had the same problem. Unlikely (but possible) that BOTH solenoids are bad.

Just reread the original post. Said it worked OK till late in the season. Sounds like it got colder so it lends more credence to the cold, old grease theory. Just looked at the schematic for the DLM. There are 2 relays, one for locking and one for unlocking. That means if one door can lock (or unlock) OK the problem is not the DLM (or the wiper switch in either door). This is not a relay problem so the DLM is not the source of the trouble. BTW, as long as you are digging into the Central Locking System you might consider Elvis's upgrades to it. Upgrade the relays and lower the standby current. Add the 10 AMP in-line fuse.

[DMC-81]

So to simplify my understanding here is that I should first clean the wipe switch in the door, then inline fuse the red wire coming from the DLM with a 10 amp fuse. Then test the relays manually, if the fuse blows my solenoids are most likely junk or the relays could be shot as well? Thanks guys.


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Yes, that's what I would do. You are welcome. I hope you get to the bottom of the problem. Good luck.

[Elvis]

just push those relays by hand and see if the solenoids work
and if they are strong enough !

push them a second or less !


I always test them this way and the 10A fuse (that you don't seem to have )
never burns as long as the solenoids aren't burnt inside.

[Kevin 02530]

just push those relays by hand and see if the solenoids work
and if they are strong enough !

push them a second or less !


I always test them this way and the 10A fuse (that you don't seem to have )
never burns as long as the solenoids aren't burnt inside.

I took the rods off all of the linkages in the door and moved everything individually, everything is moving freely and not binding. I did adjust the cable coming from the handle a little bit but only because it was too loose. After messing around with it some I am able to get the door to lock but not unlock. By using the paddle on the passenger door I was able to lock the driver side but then was not able to unlock it from either side. (Had to roll the window down and unlock it with the key from inside) i can also get the passenger side to lock from the driver side but not unlock. I think I have an issue with the relay at this point. Now of course this should be a simple test but one of the screw heads for the module is totally stripped and rusty. I am going to have to drill it out. I did pick up an in-line fuse holder and a few 10amp fuses to give your method a try. Thanks for all of your help so far.. going to try and get to it in the next day or so. I’ll let you know where I’m at with it.


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