Slow car...

[Bullitt]

Im getting finished with my frame off restoration. Was out driving my car yesterday, and cant help feeling it is slower than it should. No problem getting it to go fast, but it takes time getting there. 0-60 takes a while... I know they are not superfast, but I guess it should be quicker. Tha car runs and idles fine, but is shooting flames sometimes and It feels like it is blowing back in the intake also at times. Any idea what does this? While cheking around i smelled fuel. It was the short frequency valve hose that was sweating/leaking. I have changed the fuel hoses, but this was not in the kit. I had a new one that came with the car, had not been used but was old. Im going to order new stainless braided frequency valve hoses, and wonder if I need something more. Engine has been overhauled by a serious company. New crankshaft, cams, pistons/liners and chain with accessories. I bought a new fuel distributor, injectors, injector gaskets and clips, stainless braided fuel lines, fuel pump, fuel filter, accumulator, relays, resistor, plugs, plugwires, cap and rotor, temperatur sensor, oil pressure sensor, idle valve, new o ring for the pipes in the intake (pipe of agony), engine harness, main harness, lambda sensor, idle speed switch, vacuum solenoid and vacuum hoses...

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[Bullitt]

Im getting finished with my frame off restoration. Was out driving my car yesterday, and cant help feeling it is slower than it should. No problem getting it to go fast, but it takes time getting there. 0-60 takes a while... I know they are not superfast, but I guess it should be quicker. Tha car runs and idles fine, but is shooting flames sometimes and It feels like it is blowing back in the intake also at times. Any idea what does this? While cheking around i smelled fuel. It was the short frequency valve hose that was sweating/leaking. I have changed the fuel hoses, but this was not in the kit. I had a new one that came with the car, had not been used but was old. Im going to order new stainless braided frequency valve hoses, and wonder if I need something more. Engine has been overhauled by a serious company. New crankshaft, cams, pistons/liners and chain with accessories. I bought a new fuel distributor, injectors, injector gaskets and clips, stainless braided fuel lines, fuel pump, fuel filter, accumulator, relays, resistor, plugs, plugwires, cap and rotor, temperatur sensor, oil pressure sensor, idle valve, new o ring for the pipes in the intake (pipe of agony), engine harness, main harness, lambda sensor, idle speed switch, vacuum solenoid and vacuum hoses...

Sent fra min F5321 via TapatalkI have adjusted engine timing, and I can hear the frequency valve buzzing. I adjusted the CO until it ran best. I was gonna check the CO at work on Monday, but it will have to wait till i get new frequency valve hoses.

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[Bitsyncmaster]

I have adjusted engine timing, and I can hear the frequency valve buzzing. I adjusted the CO until it ran best. I was gonna check the CO at work on Monday, but it will have to wait till i get new frequency valve hoses.

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If you adjust the mixture by ear for best idle, your probably set to rich.

[Bullitt]

If you adjust the mixture by ear for best idle, your probably set to rich.

That is probably correct, but it has some backfiring when i make it leaner as welll.. and poor performance.

I have also changed my exhaust to the uk exhaust without a catalytic converter.

[Michael]

If that FV line is sweating then it's a VERY short trip to a high pressure fuel leak and the FV is right over the exhaust manifold so if it is even thinking about leaking, I would not drive it until it's replaced. Once the fuel leak is fixed then you can set your mixture with a meter and go from there with further diagnosis if the problem still exists.

[Bullitt]

If that FV line is sweating then it's a VERY short trip to a high pressure fuel leak and the FV is right over the exhaust manifold so if it is even thinking about leaking, I would not drive it until it's replaced. Once the fuel leak is fixed then you can set your mixture with a meter and go from there with further diagnosis if the problem still exists. The car is beeing left alone in the garage till I get new hoses. I don't want to see it burn! [emoji3] So if I understand you correct, even the fuel sweating around the frequency valve could have an impact on the performance?

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[Bitsyncmaster]

Changing the exhaust or fixing vacuum, leaks will change the mixture setting.

[Michael]

The car is beeing left alone in the garage till I get new hoses. I don't want to see it burn! [emoji3] So if I understand you correct, even the fuel sweating around the frequency valve could have an impact on the performance?

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The FV directly controls the lower chamber in the distributor so I would imagine that any leak there is not only a fire hazard but would make it impossible to get an accurate mixture setting.

[Bullitt]

Thanks guys! I will change the hoses, and get the mixture set at work afterwards.

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[Rich]

I have also changed my exhaust to the uk exhaust without a catalytic converter.

Disclaimer: I'm not a K-Jet mixture guru. Am just pointing to advice from the exhaust kit vendor here.

Question: Did you take notice of the advice DeLorean UK lists for installation of their kit? They explain some fuel delivery/pressure adjustments. (noting that these adjustment methods probably don't apply with the cat conv in place - DeLorean UK can answer in any case). I see you did a CO tweak.

https://www.deloreango.com/us/stainless-exhaust.html


After installation [of their no-cat headers/exhaust] you will want to adjust the fuel mixture - if you haven't already got a mixture adjustment screw bung then you'll want one of these (see below). The simple technique is - turn screw right until the engine dies, then turn screw left until the engine dies, then turn it back to the middle of those 2 points, and insert the bung. You should also re-shim the primary pressure regulator to 5.4bar to get the most out of this system - see the K-Jet shim kit.

[Bullitt]

Disclaimer: I'm not a K-Jet mixture guru. Am just pointing to advice from the exhaust kit vendor here.

Question: Did you take notice of the advice DeLorean UK lists for installation of their kit? They explain some fuel delivery/pressure adjustments. (noting that these adjustment methods probably don't apply with the cat conv in place - DeLorean UK can answer in any case). I see you did a CO tweak.

https://www.deloreango.com/us/stainless-exhaust.html


After installation [of their no-cat headers/exhaust] you will want to adjust the fuel mixture - if you haven't already got a mixture adjustment screw bung then you'll want one of these (see below). The simple technique is - turn screw right until the engine dies, then turn screw left until the engine dies, then turn it back to the middle of those 2 points, and insert the bung. You should also re-shim the primary pressure regulator to 5.4bar to get the most out of this system - see the K-Jet shim kit.I asked about this when I bought the new fuel distributor... He said it was not necessary when the fuel distributor was new... But maybe I was not clear about owning the exhaust as well..

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[Bullitt]

I asked again. Only the fuel mixture needed adjustment.

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[Dangermouse]

Did you drive the car before the frame off?

Meaning - does it seem slow compared to driving it before the frame off, or just compared to other cars ?

[Bullitt]

Yes I did, it is a few years ago though. Remember it as beeing more responsive.

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[NckT]

I asked about this when I bought the new fuel distributor... He said it was not necessary when the fuel distributor was new... But maybe I was not clear about owning the exhaust as well..

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Just to note that the oxygen sensor electrical connection (located at the rear of the firewall under the drivers side wooden board behind the grey rubber plug) needs disconnecting first to set the frequency valve to 50% before doing the fuel adjustment. (You can refit it afterwards if you so wish for a bit of extra fuel economy)

The shim of the fuel distributor primary pressure to 5.4 bar (78 psi) compensates for leaning off at higher rev range for the UK exhaust.

I would recommend you also get an emission reading as one adjusted with a non catalysed exhaust, you'll likely to get a reading between 1.0 to 1.5% CO and HC less than 250-300ppm. Any higher then further investigation on the injectors is required.

I'll assume you've checked the vac operation at the Control Pressure Regulator!

[Bullitt]

First I will check vacuum on CPR (i guess procedure is well covered on this forum), disconnect the O2 sensor and adjust fuel mixture with a dwell meter. I think we only have an electrical multi meter that does this. Not sure if this one shows in degrees og %. If it does the opposite of what the manual says, any idea on how to convert the values?

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[Bitsyncmaster]

First I will check vacuum on CPR (i guess procedure is well covered on this forum), disconnect the O2 sensor and adjust fuel mixture with a dwell meter. I think we only have an electrical multi meter that does this. Not sure if this one shows in degrees og %. If it does the opposite of what the manual says, any idea on how to convert the values?

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With the O2 sensor disconnected, the lambda ECU will hold the FV at 50% duty cycle no mater what mixture you set. So you can not use a dwell to set mixture with the O2 disconnected.

[Bullitt]

With the O2 sensor disconnected, the lambda ECU will hold the FV at 50% duty cycle no mater what mixture you set. So you can not use a dwell to set mixture with the O2 disconnected.Ok, Thanks!


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[NckT]

Just to note that the oxygen sensor electrical connection (located at the rear of the firewall under the drivers side wooden board behind the grey rubber plug) needs disconnecting first to set the frequency valve to 50% before doing the fuel adjustment. (You can refit it afterwards if you so wish for a bit of extra fuel economy)

The shim of the fuel distributor primary pressure to 5.4 bar (78 psi) compensates for leaning off at higher rev range for the UK exhaust.

I would recommend you also get an emission reading as one adjusted with a non catalysed exhaust, you'll likely to get a reading between 1.0 to 1.5% CO and HC less than 250-300ppm. Any higher then further investigation on the injectors is required.

I'll assume you've checked the vac operation at the Control Pressure Regulator!

Just to clarify, as with Bitsyncmaster, if you use a dwell meter, connect the oxygen sensor. If you want to follow the text described on the deloreango website for "rule of thumb basic setting", the oxygen sensor needs disconnecting.

[Bullitt]

I see I have a different CPR... Any input on this?

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[Bullitt]

I see I have a different CPR... Any input on this?

Sent fra min F5321 via TapatalkWhere did my pictures go? Aah... Too big.

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[Bullitt]

CPR... https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180408/1328f9c2698bd0b0085d75d4c701245a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180408/3bcd06d6d561991bdb90ae53213a0017.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180408/2091ff77aec626dc57bd2a1cdb81f056.jpg

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[81dmc]

The elbow to the CPR should not be connected to anything, it just vents.

So disconnect the plastic coupler from the fat hose and check vacuum line routing.

[Bullitt]

There is no vacuum connectors to the CPR then... Just plug the wire?

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[81dmc]

There is no vacuum connectors to the CPR then... Just plug the wire?

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Yes, but leave the hose on the CPR open. It is supposed to be a 180 degree elbow that just vents to the atmosphere.

[81dmc]

As I was rereading what I said, I realized I goofed.

There is a vacuum line running to the CPR but it is not run like you have it in the picture.

You can refer to the picture on the link below for proper routing.

http://support.delorean.com/kb/a58/warm-up-regulator-control-pressure-regulator.aspx

[DMC5180]

You should also have a vacuum routing decal on the underside of the engine cover. It should be self explanatory when you see it, unless yours is missing.


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[Bullitt]

You should also have a vacuum routing decal on the underside of the engine cover. It should be self explanatory when you see it, unless yours is missing.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkYes I know, but my CPR has np connections!

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[81dmc]

Yes I know, but my CPR has np connections!

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Well then I'd try finding the correct CPR. Try eBay.

[Bullitt]

My car had this WUR/CPR for as long as I had the car, and it was quicker before the frame off using this. What would be the typical faults when the vacuum things on the CPR does not work?

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[NckT]

You'll need to get the bosch number from the cpr.

For an 066 cpr, the bent hole at the top has an open end, with a U shaped house to prevent water ingress. This is an 'altitude compensation' opening. This cpr has a diaphragm in the lower half with two small vent holes in for the vacuum fuel enrichment. Do not drill in the brass 'cap' on these cpr's

For other Volvo/ non ke-jetronic cpr's, the top vent port is connected to the inlet manifold. It looks like you've got one of these. You may need to check if your car has a frequency valve or not, as it may have had the Volvo fuel distributor on too etc

[Bullitt]

You'll need to get the bosch number from the cpr.

For an 066 cpr, the bent hole at the top has an open end, with a U shaped house to prevent water ingress. This is an 'altitude compensation' opening. This cpr has a diaphragm in the lower half with two small vent holes in for the vacuum fuel enrichment. Do not drill in the brass 'cap' on these cpr's

For other Volvo/ non ke-jetronic cpr's, the top vent port is connected to the inlet manifold. It looks like you've got one of these. You may need to check if your car has a frequency valve or not, as it may have had the Volvo fuel distributor on too etcIt has a frequency valve.

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[Bullitt]

Bosch number 0 438 140 038

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[NckT]

Bosch number 0 438 140 038

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That's from a Volvo 260 series B28E engine.

Get the bosch numbers from your venturi and fuel distributor to see if they are also from this engine type, or look it up from

http://www.deloreaneurotec.uk/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=486

[Bullitt]

That's from a Volvo 260 series B28E engine.

Get the bosch numbers from your venturi and fuel distributor to see if they are also from this engine type, or look it up from

http://www.deloreaneurotec.uk/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=486The fuel distributor is a Delorean unit recently bought from deloreango, I assume my old one was the same. Venturi?

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[NckT]

Venturi, the mass air flow housing. The aluminium housing that the fuel distributor is bolted to, that contains the circular metal disc that gets moved down with air flow. They have different diameters

A delorean one should be 0 438 120 079 (or 031)
Edit: should be 0 438 120 132

A volvo one is 0 438 10 065

[Bullitt]

Venturi, the mass air flow housing. The aluminium housing that the fuel distributor is bolted to, that contains the circular metal disc that gets moved down with air flow. They have different diameters

A delorean one should be 0 438 120 079 (or 031)

A volvo one is 0 438 10 0650 438 120 132

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[NckT]

Sorry my mistake, I put the wrong number in for the delorean one.

Just to be sure measure the diameter of your circular disc in mm.

[DMC-81]

While you are looking for the correct CPR, I thought I'd share a photo of the vacuum hose routing on the DeLorean specific one if it helps you out any:


http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=44940&d=1469836882

[Bullitt]

While you are looking for the correct CPR, I thought I'd share a photo of the vacuum hose routing on the DeLorean specific one if it helps you out any:


http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=44940&d=1469836882Ill buy the correct one from deloreango in a while. Ill change the fv hoses and adjust mixture for now with a dwell meter. Can't afford it at the moment. The car sure is a money drain. 🤣

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[Bullitt]

Ill buy the correct one from deloreango in a while. Ill change the fv hoses and adjust mixture for now with a dwell meter. Can't afford it at the moment. The car sure is a money drain. 🤣

Sent fra min F5321 via TapatalkAnd I guess there is no core return since it is the wrong part number. [emoji4]

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[DMC5180]

Can't afford it at the moment. The car sure is a money drain. 🤣

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Thats the cost of restoration and maintaining vs a daily driver where you only fix the absolute minimum to keep it on the road to the junkyard.



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[Bullitt]

Bought my self a multimeter that has dwell reading. Connected it to orange wire in blue bulkhead connector and the other to ground. Put it on 4cyl and dwell reading. It reads about 45 degrees no matter how much I adjust...? Read in the resources that I wanted to adjust it to 40 degrees. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180411/e6bb77e19513d39c0e06c95307cb2f32.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180411/f9888b999c6b240056306715e070d8a4.jpg

https://youtu.be/mHPiC-nxa3Y

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[NckT]

I'll assume that's on a hot running engine.
It should be about 54 deg on a cold engine OR with the throttle spool full open switch is pressed closed (the one that the circular throttle spool presses)

If it does go to 54 deg with the switch pressed, check that the oxygen sensor is actually connected at the electrical connection behind the grey bung at the firewall under the widen boats behind the drivers seat.

[Bullitt]

I'll assume that's on a hot running engine.
It should be about 54 deg on a cold engine OR with the throttle spool full open switch is pressed closed (the one that the circular throttle spool presses)

If it does go to 54 deg with the switch pressed, check that the oxygen sensor is actually connected at the electrical connection behind the grey bung at the firewall under the widen boats behind the drivers seat.It does go to 54.. I will check connections...

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[Bullitt]

I'll assume that's on a hot running engine.
It should be about 54 deg on a cold engine OR with the throttle spool full open switch is pressed closed (the one that the circular throttle spool presses)

If it does go to 54 deg with the switch pressed, check that the oxygen sensor is actually connected at the electrical connection behind the grey bung at the firewall under the widen boats behind the drivers seat.Both connections are connected and it goes to 54 when pressed.

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[NckT]

..... check that the oxygen sensor is actually connected at the electrical connection behind the grey bung at the firewall under the widen boats behind the drivers seat.

[Bitsyncmaster]

A cold engine will run open loop at 45 deg. (50% duty cycle) until the O2 sensor warms up and puts out around 0.5 volts.

If it's really cold then you get the 54 deg (60% duty cycle) until the thermal throttle enrichment opens.

So your not running closed loop if your engine was warmed up. Open O2 circuit or maybe a rare lambda ECU problem. Lambda ECU failure is rare.

[Bullitt]

A cold engine will run open loop at 45 deg. (50% duty cycle) until the O2 sensor warms up and puts out around 0.5 volts.

If it's really cold then you get the 54 deg (60% duty cycle) until the thermal throttle enrichment opens.

So your not running closed loop if your engine was warmed up. Open O2 circuit or maybe a rare lambda ECU problem. Lambda ECU failure is rare.Engine is warm, running for 30 minutes, I dont think the fans started, but still hot. So.. Check 02 wiring then?

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[Bullitt]

..... check that the oxygen sensor is actually connected at the electrical connection behind the grey bung at the firewall under the widen boats behind the drivers seat.It was

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[Bullitt]

The O2 sensor has one wire... But at the end of the wire at the ECU there is 2 wires coming out of the blue wire at pin 2 and 4?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180411/239b1814ce5d61b334fa5ae1ea9bd719.jpg

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[Bitsyncmaster]

[QUOTE=Bullitt;233136]The O2 sensor has one wire... But at the end of the wire at the ECU there is 2 wires coming out of the blue wire at pin 2 and 4?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180411/239b1814ce5d61b334fa5ae1ea9bd719.jpg

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I think that is normal. The sensor wire is shielded so it's common to just connect the shield on one end only (so no current flows in the shield). A common problem with the lambda is one of the grounds at the engine harness is not connected.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Note pin 22 and 23 on my bulkhead pdf. Yours should be the same on those two pins.

[Bullitt]

Note pin 22 and 23 on my bulkhead pdf. Yours should be the same on those two pins.Thanks, will check tomorrow.

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[NckT]

It was

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Just to clarify, there is a permanent wire from the fuel lambda ecu plu gin that pic to the grey rubber bung at the firewall. Pull the grey rubber bung out of the firewall and there is a blade connection there that then goes to the oxygen sensor. It is at this point that the o2 sensor is disconnected or has fallen off. This is a single wire from the oxygen sensor that is the 'signal' wire. As Bitsyncmaster said, the 2nd cable is the outer cable that acts as the radio interference sordid and is usually connected at one side

[Bullitt]

Just to clarify, there is a permanent wire from the fuel lambda ecu plu gin that pic to the grey rubber bung at the firewall. Pull the grey rubber bung out of the firewall and there is a blade connection there that then goes to the oxygen sensor. It is at this point that the o2 sensor is disconnected or has fallen off. This is a single wire from the oxygen sensor that is the 'signal' wire. As Bitsyncmaster said, the 2nd cable is the outer cable that acts as the radio interference sordid and is usually connected at one sideAa, got It. Will check today. Also double checking vacuum routing, fuel line routing. But judt curious... If I got the Dwell angle adjusted properly, and when I check CO at work, should I leave out adjusting for a better CO? If I understand corrcet, the Dwell angle adjustment is most important?

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[NckT]

You'll have to say if your car has got a catalytic converter on or not as this will affect the CO reading, as the purpose of the converter is to convert CO + HC + NO2 + N2O -> H2O + CO2 + N2 + O2 (thereabouts).

[Bullitt]

You'll have to say if your car has got a catalytic converter on or not as this will affect the CO reading, as the purpose of the converter is to convert CO + HC + NO2 + N2O -> H2O + CO2 + N2 + O2 (thereabouts).It does not have catalytic converter.
Im out in the garage now. I used a mirror to check the vacuum hoses. I can see the that the hose for the solenoid and the wur is mixed up...

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[NckT]

If it helps with the vac pipes, I originally posted a test on:

http://www.deloreaneurotec.uk/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=4619

Vac pipes Vac pipes... the bain of DeLorean engines...
Incorrectly connected make the car run a bit rubbish......

To save time stripping the inlet manifold off and to save time, you can do the following to check that the vac pipes are connected the correct way around. There are 3 vacuum pipes come from the thermo-vacuum switch from under the inlet manofold.
1 to the T Piece on the Control Pressure Regulator
1 to the Distributor Solenoid (located between the Fuel Distributor and the fibreflass firewall/ bulkhead)
1 to the Inlet Manifold, on a small pipe stud on the Inlet Manifold nearest to the ceramic resistors

With a COLD enginer (i.e. one that has been left overnight), Blow down the pipes separately.
2 of the vacuum pipes should flow air through each other the other one feels blocked.
Label the blocked one as "Distributor Solenoid"

Run the engine until it is at normal running temperature ie coolant temp is +80c

You should be able to blow down the one marked distributor and out of one of the other pipes. Label this pipe "inlet manifold".
If you blow down the 3rd pipe it should feel blocked. Label this as the "Control Pressure Regulator".

Let the engine cool down (i.e. leave it left overnight),

Verification Test:

With a COLD enginer (i.e. one that has been left overnight),
Blow through the vacuum pipe labelled "Inlet manifold", Air should come out of the vacuum pipe labelled "Control Pressure Regulator".
The remaining vacuum pipe labelled "Distributor Solenoid" should be blocked.

Run the engine until it is at running temperature.
Blow through the vacuum pipe labelled "Inlet manifold", Air should come out of the vacuum pipe labelled "Distributor Solenoid"
The remaining vacuum pipe labelled "Control Pressure Regulator" should be blocked.

If your vacuum pipes pass the above test, connect them up, noting that the vacuum pipe from under the inlet manifold marked "Distributor Solenoid" connects to the CENTRAL Vacuum stub on the Distributor Solenoid. This too is also handed and affects the way the engine runs.

If test is NOT OK then but always follows the engine hot test, chances are your thermo vac switch is stuck in the "HOT" position.
Before you replace this, check that you are actually checking the correct vac pipes from under the inlet manifold.
I have noted on one car that the pipe from under the inlet manifold was actually connected to the hot water valve vacuum connection!

-----

You won't have a T piece on your CPR if you've got a volvo one on so dismiss this.

I hope this helps

[NckT]

It does not have catalytic converter.
Im out in the garage now. I used a mirror to check the vacuum hoses. I can see the that the hose for the solenoid and the wur is mixed up...

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By the way, if your car doesn't have a catalytic converter, you could just disconnect the oxygen sensor electrical connector and set the CO to between 1.0 to 1.5 %, and check that the HC is less than 250ppm

[Bullitt]

By the way, if your car doesn't have a catalytic converter, you could just disconnect the oxygen sensor electrical connector and set the CO to between 1.0 to 1.5 %, and check that the HC is less than 250ppmThanks for detailed info! I switched the hoses, and checked lambda wire and ground wires. They were all good. Waiting for it to warm up now to check dwell. What do you mean by HC?

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[NckT]

Hydro Carbon

[Bullitt]

Ok thanks! [emoji4] Well it helped a little bit putting the hoses where they are supposed to go. A little less back fire and a little less smell... But still no other reading than 45 degrees on the dwell meter. I performed the vacuum hose test you wrote when the engine was cold and it was good. Forgot to do it while the engine is hot. It is late and Im off to bed so ill check in the weekend. I dont have license plates on the car so I cant test the car on the road at the moment. Ill get som test plates from work in the weekend so I can get there to check the co.

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[Bullitt]

Ok thanks! [emoji4] Well it helped a little bit putting the hoses where they are supposed to go. A little less back fire and a little less smell... But still no other reading than 45 degrees on the dwell meter. I performed the vacuum hose test you wrote when the engine was cold and it was good. Forgot to do it while the engine is hot. It is late and Im off to bed so ill check in the weekend. I dont have license plates on the car so I cant test the car on the road at the moment. Ill get som test plates from work in the weekend so I can get there to check the co.

Sent fra min F5321 via TapatalkHmm. Guess I know why it was slow... All 4 brakes locked up. Brakepedal acted weird, first it was a little bit hard, made a suction sound, pedal dropped a cm and was comepletely hard again. When I stopped the car, brakes were smoking and the pedal was all hard.... Any idea what could do this?

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[Bitsyncmaster]

Hmm. Guess I know why it was slow... All 4 brakes locked up. Brakepedal acted weird, first it was a little bit hard, made a suction sound, pedal dropped a cm and was comepletely hard again. When I stopped the car, brakes were smoking and the pedal was all hard.... Any idea what could do this?

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I've had one brake not release on my daily driver (2005 Malibu) and do notice poor performance and my displayed MPG drops quickly. That turned out to be the brake hose collapsed and not release pressure. The other side did the same a few years later. But if all four of your brakes are sticking, the problem must be with the master cylinder sticking.

[Bullitt]

I've had one brake not release on my daily driver (2005 Malibu) and do notice poor performance and my displayed MPG drops quickly. That turned out to be the brake hose collapsed and not release pressure. The other side did the same a few years later. But if all four of your brakes are sticking, the problem must be with the master cylinder sticking.Crap... Its new and everything... When the car sits, brakes get better. Would indicate master cylinder.

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[Bullitt]

Since the mastercylinder was new, could I have done anything to ruin it? Bought it a year ago.

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[Bullitt]

I also have a suspicion that the company rebuilt my engine has gotten the chain on a tooth wrong... What is the easiest way to check this?

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[Mike Griese]

How far apart did you take the car? If you got into the pedal box, your brake pedal return spring may not be installed properly.

[Bullitt]

How far apart did you take the car? If you got into the pedal box, your brake pedal return spring may not be installed properly.I have actually changed that spring, and it works good

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[Bullitt]

I disconnected the vacuum hose for the brake booster, brakes are good for now. Gonna drive it a little bit more to be sure. So guess the brake booster is shot. Probably some crap clogging up the valve inside.

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[Bullitt]

Adjusted the CO today... HC is through the roof. Runs "fine" but has slow acceleration, backfires, sputters, smells gas and use alot of gas. As I said, I suspect that the company that rebuilt my engine got the timing chain screwed up. Easiest way to check this? Performed a compression test a while back, and that was not too bad, so I don't think any valves are screwed up. Take a look at the pictures, the one that reads 1,5 CO is the right bank, and the 1,48 CO is the left bank. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180416/c80188bca2804e0d2985c913f0b5c382.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180416/1927863b1bf2c0540d3f847c0e471083.jpg

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[NckT]

You might have to get a fuel pressure gauge and take some readings to make sure the CPR/WUR you have is within spec and take it from there. The fuel pressure gauge should be compatible for k/ ke jetronic and have the isolator valve in line with the fuel pressure gauge's hoses...

[Bullitt]

Changed the brake booster today, so my brakes are good again! [emoji3]

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[Bullitt]

A while ago I replaced the brake booster, and sorted out the timing Chain. Guess it was wrong, it did go alot faster afterwards, but engine sputtered more.
I got the correct CPR yesterday and installed it. Now I am able to get it in closed loop and adjust the dwell. Ran the car until it was hot and the fans kicked inn. Adjusted the dwell. But somehow I got it in my mind that the value should be centered around 45 degrees and adjusted accordingly. When I checked the forum today I have an understanding that the value should be centered around 40 degrees.
I will adjust it correctly today, and also check timing again to be sure.
The car ran alot better, but it still smelled rich and sputtered som when I hit the Accelerator pedal. Maybe that will sort itself out when I adjust it again today.
(When I set it around 45 degrees yesterday, the Frequency valve only buzzed sometimes. Is that correct or should it Buzz all the time? It used to Buzz all the time when I could only get it to run in open loop)

[Bitsyncmaster]

The FV should be running all the time. The minimum is about 15% and maximum is around 95% duty cycle. So if your using a stethoscope you would hear it but the loudest buzz is around 50%. So you may not hear the buzz if it is running near the max or min.

Your dwell meter should always so a value other than 0 or 90 deg.

[Bullitt]

A couple of new spark plugs did the trick. It runs like a dream now. Gonna double check the timing and dwell tomorrow to check if everything is okay. The plugs were not old, but has probably seen some hard times! [emoji4]

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[David T]

If it has been running rich for a while it often contaminates the O2 sensor. Depending on how long and how bad, the sensor could clean itself eventually. Recheck the duty cycle after running it for a while. You can also try a bottle of Techron if you can get it (or some other good fuel injector cleaner). I have gotten "bad" sensors to work by cooking them with a propane torch for a while but they are never good. Best is to just replace it. Might as well check the valve clearances and reset the Lambda counter.