Just bought a barn find, need some guidance.

[YJK]

Hello, all. I just bought a 81 delorean with auto trans. 10k miles that has been sitting in a garage for 11 years. Number 3394. It got parked because the fuel pump was acting up. It has the original tires still holding air on it. The original owner. In As good condition as you could expect.

Now the bad, 1/2" jelly in the fuel tank. Nothing was drained before it got covered up for an 11 year nap. All the fluid levels are where they should be just not the color or condition they should be. I know from reading posts here that the fuel system will need rebuilt. Here is a question. Has anyone ever been able to just run cleaners through the fuel system and get it running reliable again.
It looks like it can run 2k on the fuel system parts along.

It also looks like I will need to replace all the water line hoses. Brake flex hoses.

What are the chances of not replacing the radiator, water pump, master cylinder, calipers, heater core, etc.

What about the electric items, i have not put a battery in it yet. What can I expect?

The Out side mirrors are foggy looking. One door gasket has a tear in it, the head liner is sagging in one spot. Ill fix these. They are easy to spot and know they need fixed.

Any input or direction to other info sources would be appreciated. Thanks, joel

[WHO1DMC]

Any car sitting that long should be gone through A-Z no short cuts! For the car and specially your life!

It may take a few years and 5 to 10 grand.

Congratulations Dave B.

[Jonathan]

Congrats on your car. Sounds like you found a good project.

After 11 years, I agree the entire car will need to be gone through. You may not need to replace everything, but inspection and cleaning/flushing is in order at the very least.

Brake system - You may not need to replace the calipers, but you'd be wise to at least rebuild them. That'll mean new seals around the pistons, new fluid and new pads. Perhaps the flexible lines too. Parking brake system has no fluid, but you'll need to inspect/replace the pads and adjust the cables.

Fuel system - drain the tank completely and clean well. Replace the filter. You may get away with being able to run itself clean, but that's not terribly likely. Possible though. If you're making a lot of other adjustments and fixes on the engine, this'll be tough as it will be difficult to keep the engine running long enough to get it clean. New fuel lines as a kit aren't a bad idea at this age for any car. Maybe you need someone to rebuild the fuel distributor for you or maybe you don't. Don't fire up the engine to try the fuel system just to see how it goes though until you get the jelly cleaned out from everywhere you can first.

Engine/cooling system - I would think you'll need new coolant hoses all around which also means you get to dig into the valley. Not a bad idea anyway because you'll probably have had some rodents living in the car in those 11 years you'll need to clean up from. All new coolant hoses means new coolant and a flushing along with it. With the intake off, you can put new spark plugs in it and perhaps new ignition wiring too. Again, not a bad idea for any of our cars at this age.

Electrical - do a bunch of inspecting before you put a new battery in it. Inspecting for mice or other damage mostly. Go in behind each seat and look at those fuse and relay areas. That'll tell you a lot about where you're starting from. New fuses are a good idea and so too are new relays. Buy one of the kits and update the problem areas like the fan fail spot. Once you do that and put a new battery in it, you can power the car up to accessories but not try and start the engine. From there you can begin to assess what switches, bells and whistles work and which ones don't. Windows, mirrors, horns, turn signals, lights, stereo, etc. Expect to need to go into the doors to inspect, clean and fix things.

Transmission - change the ATF before driving the car. Change the filter that is up in behind the trans fluid pan too. You will probably need to rebuild the auto trans shift computer box with an up to date version of those 80s electronics. Again, good to get done for anyone with an automatic as the originals are prone to failure sooner or later.

Doors seals and whatnot - hopefully you can store the car inside. Then the cosmetic stuff can wait or you can work slowly on it when you need a break from the other stuff. It's important of course, but not more important than the other stuff I mentioned above.

Find another owner near you (where are you btw?) and go meet up and see some other cars. That's one of the best ways I ever found of realizing what might not be right on your own car when you see it correct on someone else's.

Be patient and <cliché font> enjoy the journey <cliché font> :)

[Andrew]

Congrats on your purchase! If you do the work yourself, and if you are resourceful with parts, you can get that car back on the road for a couple thousand dollars. I restored 5052 in 2014 after 23 years of storage. The time between the date of purchase and the first drive was less than 2 months at a cost of about $2,000.

Tires: While I dont buy into the 10 year "rule" that has been promoted by tire companies, I will say that the NCT's should be replaced at this point as they are in excess of 35 years old.

Fuel: As others have said, clean the tank out to the point of being spotless inside, replace the pump, boot and fuel filter. Perhaps luck will be on your side with regard to the distributor, CPR and injectors. I would recommend replacing the fuel hoses.

Brakes: Replace the master cylinder. I cant stress that one enough. The hoses are probably clogged. The internal caliper passages might be sludged up as well. I would recommend rebuilding the calipers...they are pretty easy to rebuild. While you have the brakes apart, take the rotors to your local brake shop and have the rotors machined. Needless to say, replace the pads.

Cooling system: Replace all hoses. You could probably defer this one until the car is running, but I would recommend replacing the hoses before any significant driving. Replace the belts as well!

Electrical: Do a visual check of the relay compartment, under the coil cover and by the starter and alternator. I would recommend replacing the fuses and relays at the least.

Also, do a tune up and oil change.

A lot of the above referenced repairs can be done at low cost, but the work is time consuming. In any event, have fun with it!

Congrats again,

Andrew
4194
5052

[Dangermouse]

Congrats :rofl:


Post a few pictures and we can see if anything else needs done

[Citizen]

I like everything Jonathan and Andrew listed, but I'll add one more thing, if you don't mind.

- Keep a record of everything you replace, fix or clean. Also record the cost. This will be excellent documentation for when and if you ever go to sell it. Plus, even if you never sell, it's nice to look back from time to time, and see all you've accomplished!

Congrats!

Thomas

...

[YJK]

Wow, what a response. Thanks,

Ok i need to know if it's worth the time and money. Over the last week i have been putting together a list of worst case repairs. Like entire fuel system, brake system, water system, minor electrical, minor cosmetics. The good on the car is no rust anywhere, body and trim a 9+. Interior an 8+.

Well this did not post in a timely manner, and it lost half of it.

I have been adding up the retail price on the parts. 5k min most likely 7k. I do all my own work. Rebuild cars as hobby. What are these cars actually selling for? Ive seen adds from 15 to 50k. If i bring this back to near pertect condition what will it be worth /be able to sell for? Any insight here would be helpful.

[YJK]

I'll take some pics tonight and see if I can post them. I have already started taking stuff apart to see condition in engine area and fuel tank.

[Andrew]

I like everything Jonathan and Andrew listed, but I'll add one more thing, if you don't mind.

- Keep a record of everything you replace, fix or clean. Also record the cost. This will be excellent documentation for when and if you ever go to sell it. Plus, even if you never sell, it's nice to look back from time to time, and see all you've accomplished!

Congrats!

Thomas

...

+1 On keeping a list of everything you fix / buy / sell. I did just that with 5052. When I got the car, the first thing I did was make a list of what needed to be done / repaired. I tracked all my purchases, including how much I saved via cross references and buying various used parts. I also kept a running tally of the parts I sold, including the entire core k-jet system, when I did a carb conversion.

You may want to explore your fuel system options, including carb or EFI as both offer advantages over K-Jet. Im partial to carb conversions myself. Furthermore, it's probably to the point that an EFI conversion might be comparable in cost to a complete K-Jet rebuild.

[Jonathan]

Definitely a good idea to keep a logbook and be taking photos along the way. Great references for later when you either go to put something back together or are trying to troubleshoot something on the car. I have kept a spreadsheet from day one, and after ten years, it is pretty HUGE. No telling how long anyone will own their car while guessing from the day you get it, but being able to see what you did on the car since you've owned it gives you a good tracker of maintenance and whatnot. Spreadsheets also don't forget, so if you put the costs of things in there, you can see the running total. That's good and a bit scary too! I've divided mine out per year, per mile, etc. About any way you want to look at things.

If we go by the rule of thumb regarding restoration costs of $1,000 per year that it sat, then you are looking at $11,000. Likely less since you said you already do this kind of thing as a hobby. What will it be worth once you get it in good shape? Hard to say. Most of the time, these cars don't become good examples of ones you can flip and make a profit. Perhaps true with most classic cars? A well sorted out 81, automatic with no rust, great exterior and good interior probably lists for somewhere in the 40s and actually sells in the 30s. Complete guess though. That might leave you some room to make some money, or maybe it doesn't. It wouldn't cover your own time and effort though either in those costs. Most owners that have figured out a way to enjoy their cars have found it's a combination of blood, sweat and tears, passion, perseverance, idiocy and money. But not just money.

[YJK]

Yes, it is always a good idea to keep a log of parts and costs. I do that regularly. I try to figure in my time when looking at a restore. Although I don't log all my time. I'm a bit strange, i like working on cars more than driving them when I'm done. My wife on the other hand, she loves to drive them everywhere. So we end up at several car shows a year. I have heard that if you double the cost of parts that will normally cover your labor. 5k in parts about 5k inlabor. I paid 15k, estimate the restore 5k in parts and 5k in labor, 25k total. Hoping the car will be worth more than that when done.

Is there cross reference guide for parts? Has anyone put one together?
My spreadsheets are normally excel. Column one the parts. Headers across the top are the vendors. Price and availability is the table. This lets me find the best deal on each. So right now im trying to make the list of parts needed, them ill need to locate the vendors that sell them. Any references here is appreciated.

Ill post pics to night, thanks,

[JETS 81 DMC]

Parts crossover list:
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?932-Parts-Crossover-List

Resource info
http://dmctalk.org/forumdisplay.php?5-Resources

[bfloyd]

My car (3294) and your car (3394) were probably built within a day or two of each other. Mine had about the same mileage (8,637) when I got it. Like yours, previous owner had problems with the fuel pump, parked it and never touched it again.
Mine had the original "everything" (belts, hoses, tires, brakes, calipers, water pump, radiator, etc.). I've replaced just about everything on mine in the 3 1/2 years I've had it.

[YJK]

Pics of car. Anyone see anything out of the usual.

[YJK]

My car (3294) and your car (3394) were probably built within a day or two of each other. Mine had about the same mileage (8,637) when I got it. Like yours, previous owner had problems with the fuel pump, parked it and never touched it again.
Mine had the original "everything" (belts, hoses, tires, brakes, calipers, water pump, radiator, etc.). I've replaced just about everything on mine in the 3 1/2 years I've had it.

Did you have to from it setting that long, or did you do it just to make sure everything was working. Anything done that you wouldn't have done today or things that you should do?

[YJK]

Parts crossover list:
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?932-Parts-Crossover-List

Resource info
http://dmctalk.org/forumdisplay.php?5-Resources

Thanks, good info. Now i just need to figure out how to save this for quick reference.

[Jonathan]

Pics of car. Anyone see anything out of the usual.

It might just be the lighting, but have a closer look at the closing plate under the engine as it seems like it's had a coat of POR-15 on it. Not necessarily a bad thing if it has, but I would use something firm but with a soft end (rubber ideally) to push up on it and see if the metal is still good and solid.

More pics please :)

[YJK]

Here are close up of that area. It's not por. Its oil and dirt. I just took a rag to it anf it wiped off. New paint under it. It looks like the trans has a leak, and he drove it awhile before parking it. I planned on changing the fuluds and pan gaskets, i also just noticed a possible leak at the back, where i think its the speedo cable connection. New seal needed.

Also I noticed these red paint marks. Is this from the factory or someone really messy.

[DMC-81]

Thanks, good info. Now i just need to figure out how to save this for quick reference.

Hi there,

Congratulations on acquiring a fine example of the marque. Wow, it looks great! Here's my best guidance.

Before buying any parts, I would think about how you want to use the car and that will help you approach any restoration work on it ( i.e. Do you want the car to be as correct as possible for showing, to just get it running as economically as possible to use it as a daily driver, or anything in between.

One thing to consider with the crossover list is that some of the parts will work, but may not be correct for the car. My understanding is that it was originally developed in the pre-Internet days to help owners keep their cars running but currently, there are many excellent vendors offering great products that fit instead of you having to hunt for parts elsewhere. Been there, done that. DMC (and affiliates), PJ Grady, DeloreanGo, and DMC Europe are my favorites based on 4 years of buying a lot of parts. There are others of course, and you can search here for recommendations and reviews. I have returned more than a few inferior parts, some were wasted, and then bought again elsewhere.

You may have already been reading this thread on car values which will further guide you:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?16365-Auction-time-(Barrett-Jackson)

Based on the pictures, I think you have a great car with a lot of potential, and if it were me, I would research parts carefully before buying.

Also there are threads on prioritizing restoration work so it doesn't get overwhelming if it winds up needing a lot.

Cheers,

[DMC-81]

Here are close up of that area. It's not por. Its oil and dirt. I just took a rag to it anf it wiped off. New paint under it. It looks like the trans has a leak, and he drove it awhile before parking it. I planned on changing the fuluds and pan gaskets, i also just noticed a possible leak at the back, where i think its the speedo cable connection. New seal needed.

Also I noticed these red paint marks. Is this from the factory or someone really messy.

The red paint marks signify the first suspension recall. After the recall was done they were supposed to paint red marks on the area and in the engine bay:
http://www.dmcnews.com/bulletins/SC-01-11.81.html

Like so:

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=44574&d=1468632598

It looks like they went a bit overboard with yours. It was recalled again so eventually you can upgrade to the "blue" recall.

[DMC-81]

Here are close up of that area. It's not por. Its oil and dirt. I just took a rag to it anf it wiped off. New paint under it.

I found this does a good job cleaning the frame.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=52152&d=1498095781

[Jonathan]

More info on the front end recall here: http://support.delorean.com/kb/a78/front-end-recall-what-is-it.aspx

It looks like you are missing the strengthening brackets (Dana, are you missing those too?).

The link to the DMC Houston Knowledge Base of articles references the recall kit and a link to the PDF write-up of what it includes. There were a few things like this on the car. I would recommend getting yourself a copy of the manuals for the car, which includes the workshop manual, parts manual, bulletins binder and owner's manual.

You mentioned a leak being near the speedo connection in the rear. What did you mean by this? The speedo cable connects to the front left wheel, in through the front firewall at the driver's feet and then up into the instrument cluster. You can see a cable hanging down slightly in one of your photos just behind the auto trans fluid pan and that is one of the two parking brake cables going to the rear wheels.

[YJK]

Thanks for the info. It looks like i need to do a search on recalls. Stupid question, if something has not been updated are parts available for the updates.

I need a wash bay with a lift. But will fun cleaning the underside without it.

[YJK]

More info on the front end recall here: http://support.delorean.com/kb/a78/front-end-recall-what-is-it.aspx

It looks like you are missing the strengthening brackets (Dana, are you missing those too?).

The link to the DMC Houston Knowledge Base of articles references the recall kit and a link to the PDF write-up of what it includes. There were a few things like this on the car. I would recommend getting yourself a copy of the manuals for the car, which includes the workshop manual, parts manual, bulletins binder and owner's manual.

You mentioned a leak being near the speedo connection in the rear. What did you mean by this? The speedo cable connects to the front left wheel, in through the front firewall at the driver's feet and then up into the instrument cluster. You can see a cable hanging down slightly in one of your photos just behind the auto trans fluid pan and that is one of the two parking brake cables going to the rear wheels.

Ill add the bracket to the list to check on. The leak is at the rubber boot at the rear of the trans, above the pan on pass side. I just guessed this was the speedo connection. Have not had a chance to look up what all the connection points are yet. Igot a workshop manual with the car, still reading it.

[Jonathan]

Thanks for the info. It looks like i need to do a search on recalls. Stupid question, if something has not been updated are parts available for the updates.

I need a wash bay with a lift. But will fun cleaning the underside without it.

Front end recall kit here: http://store.delorean.com/p-10229-front-end-recall-kit.aspx

Throttle/de-ice kit recall here: http://store.delorean.com/p-10210-de-ice-recall-kit.aspx

Inertia switch replacement as per recall: http://store.delorean.com/p-7047-inertia-switch.aspx

Fuse and relay kit upgrade (and specifically the fan fail spot): http://store.delorean.com/p-10219-relay-update-kit.aspx


Ill add the bracket to the list to check on. The leak is at the rubber boot at the rear of the trans, above the pan on pass side. I just guessed this was the speedo connection. Have not had a chance to look up what all the connection points are yet. Igot a workshop manual with the car, still reading it.

That leaking connection is probably a portion of the shift computer harness. It is the 1st item on this parts page: http://store.delorean.com/c-293-4-5-6-computermodulator.aspx

Which also serves as a good introduction to Houston's parts store. DMC Houston obtained pretty much the entire inventory of parts when the original company went belly up in the 80s. There are about 2,500 parts that make up the car and they still have inventory on 90% of them (a bit of a guess on my part on that). The parts pages on the website are set-up in the same sequence as the parts manual pages, by system. Fuel, engine, transmission, body, etc. You can learn a lot just clicking around to see what is what. You'll also see prices and whether it is in stock. I would suggest calling Houston (or one of their franchises if you're closer to Midwest, California or Florida) and not placing an "add to basket" order initially. I say that just to make sure it is clear what you need vs ask for. They are good like that. You might think your oil pan is leaking but not realize it is the oil pressure sender above it that is actually leaking, for example.

There are other vendors of legit DeLorean parts too, either NOS or brand new/redesigned as well including locations that were franchises but are not anymore. Northwest is one and so is the one in Holland. PJ Grady in NY and DPI in Ohio/AZ. SpecialtyT Auto in Texas and DeLoreanGO and DeLorean Europe in the UK. Lots to pick from. Most things generally fit, but not always, so ask questions before you buy. There were some pretty odd production changes in the 9,000 cars and so it wasn't the most consistent thing ever made. They went bankrupt after making 9,000 or so cars and had intentions (and inventory) to make 20,000+ per year (but never did). That's more or less why there are so many parts available still. GM wants $93 for a pair of wipers for my Pontiac G8 and yet a pair of DeLorean wipers is $10. Go figure.

[dodint]

To dovetail onto the recommendation for acquiring workshop manuals, do check out this thread specifically: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?2866-Searchable-Workshop-Technical-Bulletins-and-Volvo-Engine-Manuals and the 'Resources' section of the forum generally. That thread has .pdf versions of the Workshop and other manuals. I have both, but it's handy to be able to page through the workshop manual and bulletins on a tablet or computer without lugging around the binder.

[David T]

The cross/over lists are getting old. Many of the cross/over parts are NLA now too because the cars they cross to are old and many of the vendors that used to make the parts either are out of business or they stopped making those parts. Your best bet to get the parts is to put together a list and order it from one of the vendors. The more you order the better the deal you can get. You know the parts will work and fit right because they use the parts in their service work themselves. In some cases the parts are better than what was originally available. Figure you will rebuild the brakes, cooling system, new tires, battery, wiper blades, any recalls and updates, tune-up, master water pump kit, A/C hoses and the fuel system. Change ALL of the fluids and filters. That will get you going and then you will find what else is broken or not working. My advice is to concentrate on the mechanicals before you start working on any cosmetic items.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

The cross/over lists are getting old. Many of the cross/over parts are NLA now too because the cars they cross to are old and many of the vendors that used to make the parts either are out of business or they stopped making those parts. Your best bet to get the parts is to put together a list and order it from one of the vendors. The more you order the better the deal you can get. You know the parts will work and fit right because they use the parts in their service work themselves. In some cases the parts are better than what was originally available. Figure you will rebuild the brakes, cooling system, new tires, battery, wiper blades, any recalls and updates, tune-up, master water pump kit, A/C hoses and the fuel system. Change ALL of the fluids and filters. That will get you going and then you will find what else is broken or not working. My advice is to concentrate on the mechanicals before you start working on any cosmetic items.
Everything we sell at least has been installed and tested and rejected if it obviously or will potentially not Rwork. You might be surprised by the fact that few others..if anyone..goes through that extra trouble. We always will because the mission is always to be the best.
Rob

[DMC-81]

More info on the front end recall here: http://support.delorean.com/kb/a78/front-end-recall-what-is-it.aspx

It looks like you are missing the strengthening brackets (Dana, are you missing those too?).

The link to the DMC Houston Knowledge Base of articles references the recall kit and a link to the PDF write-up of what it includes. There were a few things like this on the car. I would recommend getting yourself a copy of the manuals for the car, which includes the workshop manual, parts manual, bulletins binder and owner's manual.

You mentioned a leak being near the speedo connection in the rear. What did you mean by this? The speedo cable connects to the front left wheel, in through the front firewall at the driver's feet and then up into the instrument cluster. You can see a cable hanging down slightly in one of your photos just behind the auto trans fluid pan and that is one of the two parking brake cables going to the rear wheels.

Hi Jonathan. Correct. I restored the first recall kit (substituting longer bolts) originally because that's what came on the car, but I have the bracket /2nd recall kit in my parts bin to install soon. (For the OP, it's not required to get the car running, but should be done shortly thereafter. I would definitely prioritize fuel, cooling, and braking systems etc. first.)

Good call on suggesting getting the manuals.

[bfloyd]

Did you have to from it setting that long, or did you do it just to make sure everything was working. Anything done that you wouldn't have done today or things that you should do?

When I bought mine in November of 2014, it had been sitting since 1995. Because everything on the car was factory original, many of the things had just deteriorated over time. Fuel pump was corroded and rusted, fuel lines were hard and brittle. The brake calipers were seized and locked up on me the first time I tried to drive it around the block. The front brakes clamped down on the rotors and would not let go. I literally drug it home with my truck via a tow strap with the front wheels not rolling. Once I got to my driveway, I used my floor jack to lift up the front end off the ground and drove it up my concrete driveway using the wheels of the floor jack. I did the whole "valley of death" refurbishment thing and it became one of those "while you're in here you might as well...." Be careful of rusted and seized bolts on the Y-pipe, they snap way too easily.

Everything I've done so far I would consider a necessity. Doing it again, I would go ahead and replace the factory cooling fans with the newer versions while I had the radiator out, the fuse box still needs replacing, and the trailing arm bolts probably need replacing at some point. I'm taking my car back up to DMC-Midwest in the fall to have them replace the springs and shocks, so I may have them replace the TABs while it's there.

[YJK]

Well i was able to verify that the stabilizer and the throttle recalls have been done. I still need to chevk the inertia switch. I have a home show this week and will not get to do much. Next week I'll start the dismantling process to see how bad the insides are.

Thanks for the links, they are going to be a great help.

[TTait]

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?637-How-To-Clean-out-fuel-tank-and-flush-fuel-system-BEFORE-you-try-to-start-the-car

Don't take chances with the fuel system... Hope won't clean it out.