5 Speed Transmission Removal Q's

[AirmanPika]

So I'm in the process of removing the transmission from my car but a few things are not making sense as I go through the manual and look at the car itself.

In steps 4-6 it mentions removing the brackets. There are 3 bolts on the rear case holding the bracket in but I can't figure out how to access the upper bolt. The hole in the bracket doesn't give direct access and maybe my imagination isn't cooperating but I can't see any angle bit fitting either.

Also, in 10-11 there is the protective flywheel shield and magnetic pickup plate. Access to these seems marginal also.

Any advice on how to get these items pulled? I did some research but couldn't find any good references.

[DMC-81]

I'm assuming you mean the crossgate bracket (106653). Yeah, for that hard to reach top bolt I used a 1/4" drive 13 mm socket, 2 extensions separated by a knuckle and a ratchet... And a small mirror to help me guide it in.

56214
That is almost the worst bolt on the gearbox.

(After 4 times removing the transmission or rear cover, I didn't need the mirror anymore.) :)

For the magnetic pick up plate (101075) , remove the crossover pipe first and you'll have enough room to use a 11mm socket for the 2 7mm bolts. I doubt you have the flywheel inspection plate (101073), if you don't you can feel the flywheel directly with your fingers inside the bottom edge of the clutch housing. If you do have it, I believe you have to lift the engine slightly to remove the 4 7 mm bolts.


Here's my gearbox thread in case it helps any..http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?14544-5-Speed-gearbox-flaw-repair&highlight=speed+flaw

[AirmanPika]

I'm assuming you mean the crossgate bracket (106653). Yeah, for that hard to reach top bolt I used a 1/4" drive 13 mm socket, 2 extensions separated by a knuckle and a ratchet... And a small mirror to help me guide it in.

56214
That is almost the worst bolt on the gearbox.

(After 4 times removing the transmission or rear cover, I didn't need the mirror anymore.) :)

For the magnetic pick up plate (101075) , remove the crossover pipe first and you'll have enough room to use a 11mm socket for the 2 7mm bolts. I doubt you have the flywheel inspection plate (101073), if you don't you can feel the flywheel directly with your fingers inside the bottom edge of the clutch housing. If you do have it, I believe you have to lift the engine slightly to remove the 4 7 mm bolts.


Here's my gearbox thread in case it helps any..http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?14544-5-Speed-gearbox-flaw-repair&highlight=speed+flaw

Thanks for the reply. I agree the bolt you mentioned is a pain but that one I actually figured out. I'm actually trying to figure out the top bolt on the L/R mounting brackets 106341/106342. I do still have the flywheel plate on mine though it seems odd you'd need to lift the engine. That said might just be a good opportunity to go ahead and replace the engine mounts at the same time.

[DMC-81]

Thanks for the reply. I agree the bolt you mentioned is a pain but that one I actually figured out. I'm actually trying to figure out the top bolt on the L/R mounting brackets 106341/106342. I do still have the flywheel plate on mine though it seems odd you'd need to lift the engine. That said might just be a good opportunity to go ahead and replace the engine mounts at the same time.

Oh I see. Yes, for these, for the top bolt, I used a 17 mm combination wrench on the hard to reach inside and a 17 mm socket /ratchet on the outside.

[AirmanPika]

Oh I see. Yes, for these, for the top bolt, I used a 17 mm combination wrench on the hard to reach inside and a 17 mm socket /ratchet on the outside.

Thanks I must have gotten frustrated and gave up too soon. That was exactly the trick. The left bracket was a pain thanks to a bolt on the base of the casing but I just used the open end at a different attack angle and it worked. Both brackets are now out.

[DMC-81]

Thanks I must have gotten frustrated and gave up too soon. That was exactly the trick. The left bracket was a pain thanks to a bolt on the base of the casing but I just used the open end at a different attack angle and it worked. Both brackets are now out.

Excellent! :thumbup:

[AirmanPika]

Well got back to wrenching today. Luckily a prior owner only used 2 bolts on the flywheel cover so I only had to endure the harrowing work between the lifted engine and frame for a few minutes. I got everything else disconnected and technically the thing is now free but as has come up in prior threads the sucker is stuck hard to the engine. I've been reading up on what folks have done prior to get the thing disconnected but I'm open to anything anyone can toss out too. Also, any other recommendations on work to do while the transmission is out? Right now a new rear main seal, fuel filter, and general cleanup are on the books. The clutch should be good as it only has about 4000 or so miles on it.

[DMC-81]

Well got back to wrenching today. Luckily a prior owner only used 2 bolts on the flywheel cover so I only had to endure the harrowing work between the lifted engine and frame for a few minutes. I got everything else disconnected and technically the thing is now free but as has come up in prior threads the sucker is stuck hard to the engine. I've been reading up on what folks have done prior to get the thing disconnected but I'm open to anything anyone can toss out too. Also, any other recommendations on work to do while the transmission is out? Right now a new rear main seal, fuel filter, and general cleanup are on the books. The clutch should be good as it only has about 4000 or so miles on it.

I would check to make sure everything is disconnected (starter, brackets, linkages, etc.), then be sure that the transmission is supported absolutely level (not tilted down in the back, etc.). Also, make sure the engine is securely supported. For example, I used a 4x4 against the rear lip of the oil pan for this. Once that is checked, you should be able to wiggle the rear of the transmission a bit to loosen up the 2 alignment pins.

As for other work to do, assuming you are not going to break apart the gearbox, I would suggest:

- check/replace the pilot bearing. Rob Grady sells a good quality Nachi bearing
- check/rebuild CV joints
- check replace the throw out bearing. (if this was recently replaced, you should be good)
- check the rubber cup seal on the pivot ball (behind the clutch fork) Rob Grady sells these
- grease the pivot ball with 50/50 mixture of moly grease and antiseize

Here is the seal:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=49956&d=1490829600

[David T]

Get a new breather plug for the transmission. They all are crumbling now so the one you have is probably gone. While apart recheck the diff adjustment. Worry about all of the internal stuff, you can always go back and do the external stuff. Not easy but you don't have to pull the tranny to do it. If the clutch slave is questionable do it now, it is a LOT easier when you have the tranny out. if you still have the plastic hose replace it with the S/S braided one. Make up the 2 alignment pins, it makes it easier to remove and install the tranny. If you do the clutch you need the alignment tool so you can put it all back together. Sometimes you just have to pry things apart but only force them when you KNOW you have removed EVERY bolt and the transaxle is not cocked, it MUST be straight to slide apart.

[AirmanPika]

Well the transmission bellhousing is loose from the engine but it is still stuck somehow. I can rotate the transmission a bit when I loosen the jack a bit so its not stuck at the pins. Also I know it is disconnected from the protective plates and starter. Those move away freely (and again the ease of rotating the case). I'm guessing it is stuck somehow at the clutch/input shaft but attempting to adjust angles to free it up have had no impact. Am I missing something?

[DMC-81]

Hmm. What is the angle of the bell housing mounting surface relative to the engine mounting surface? ( i.e. Are they still parallel?) Sometimes if the transmission drops in the back or is higher than it should be while bolted up, the end of the input shaft can get hung up in the pilot bearing. This can happen as the engine tilts away from the transmission if supported rigidly.

Other than that the transmission should back away fairly freely.

[David T]

Stick 2 alignment bolts in. Get 2 prybars and force it apart.

[AirmanPika]

Thanks. It was indeed the angles. I had to do a bit of trial and error between the engine and transmission jacks to get them even but it finally slid off. Then I had to get a bunch of things out of the way that were not in the manual to get it down. Rear was hanging on the linkage and cooling pipes. Forgot about disconnecting the clutch line too but that was simple enough. I AM curious how I was shifting exactly though. The clutch slave seal was gone and I've probably been dumping fluid for a while. May have been a recent failure.

5633056331

[DMC-81]

Thanks. It was indeed the angles. I had to do a bit of trial and error between the engine and transmission jacks to get them even but it finally slid off. Then I had to get a bunch of things out of the way that were not in the manual to get it down. Rear was hanging on the linkage and cooling pipes. Forgot about disconnecting the clutch line too but that was simple enough. I AM curious how I was shifting exactly though. The clutch slave seal was gone and I've probably been dumping fluid for a while. May have been a recent failure.

5633056331

Excellent! You are welcome. You will want to watch the angles as well when it is time to re-install it. If it doesn't click in place easily, something is wrong. I found that there is little tolerance to correctly insert/remove the input shaft into the pilot bearing.

I had the same leak from the slave when I took mine out the first time. I had dried fluid residue where yours is.

[David T]

All of your problems can be due to the leaking slave cylinder. Also looks like you have an extra bit of hardware tied up to the clutch fork.

[AirmanPika]

All of your problems can be due to the leaking slave cylinder. Also looks like you have an extra bit of hardware tied up to the clutch fork.

Indeed I was wondering that myself. The bigger issues that existed prior to the failed slave are what are mostly driving the wish to just go with a rebuilt unit. 2nd has never been easy to get into unless you hold the shifter down (otherwise it pops out when you hit the gas). Also I have to manhandle the shifter to get into reverse. Those and the fact that basically every seal on the unit is gone or leaking. All together just adds up to more work than I think I want to deal with.

On a side note, since the rear main seal has been leaking what are thoughts on needing to replace the clutch again? Mine isn't that old and maybe has 5k on it. That said, if any oil got into there the clutch face could be contaminated. I'm somewhat tempted to just be safe and replace it anyway with a fresh setup since I'm in there regardless of condition.