View Full Version : Air Conditioning Fix
Ricker
05-20-2018, 01:31 PM
My air conditioning continually losses gas over about a month. I got a new compressor but the rest is original. Shops pull a vacuum test and can't find a leak. I think it my be the hoses. Also it has has been converted over to the other gas 134a.
Is it possible to change out the 3 hoses with the body on?
Do I really need to get a new condenser?
Where is the best place to get the proper hoses?
Thanks as always!!!
Rick
Delorean Industries
05-20-2018, 02:51 PM
Rick
Our complete kit listed below is the only modern solution for the A/C system. Includes all hoses, connection points and required components for installation. Manufactured from materials allowing for the lowest permeation percentage possible. Also the only line kit that can be fed through the frame and required access points without adding additional leak prone connection points and or damaging the frame via prying on the body tub.
Let us know if you have any other questions!
http://www.deloreanindustries.com/a-c-line-kit-complete/
jangell
05-20-2018, 06:39 PM
I was able to run the hoses though without separating the frame and body, although by "I" I mean "my friend who is a mechanic but not specifically one who works on DeLoreans". I used original-style hoses (so, single hoses, not split hoses with extra connectors) that DMC MW made for me to R134 spec.
The trick is to jack the car up by the body, not the frame. This separates the frame and body JUST enough (without removing any bolts) to allow the hose connectors to slide through. However, many people have an aversion to jacking from the body for fear of damaging it or flexing something they shouldn't (I'm less concerned; I mean, there are jack points on the body, after all, but I admit I jack from the frame whenever possible). We didn't have to pry the frame, but we tapped the hose along with a mallet and a block of wood in a few places.
DPI's kit would save you this trouble, I imagine, as they effectively come disassembled (you put he connectors on after you run the hoses through).
-- Joe
DMC-81
05-20-2018, 08:23 PM
I was able to run the hoses though without separating the frame and body, although by "I" I mean "my friend who is a mechanic but not specifically one who works on DeLoreans". I used original-style hoses (so, single hoses, not split hoses with extra connectors) that DMC MW made for me to R134 spec.
The trick is to jack the car up by the body, not the frame. This separates the frame and body JUST enough (without removing any bolts) to allow the hose connectors to slide through. However, many people have an aversion to jacking from the body for fear of damaging it or flexing something they shouldn't (I'm less concerned; I mean, there are jack points on the body, after all, but I admit I jack from the frame whenever possible). We didn't have to pry the frame, but we tapped the hose along with a mallet and a block of wood in a few places.
-- Joe
+ 1
I didn't have to replace my hoses when I refurbed my original R12 system, but through my research, I know DMC makes new R134a barrier hoses to order. On their store, the 3 hoses just have an A after the part number, like so:
1) compressor /accumulator hose: 100750A. $168.53
2) compressor/condenser hose: 100748A. $162.36
3) condenser evaporator hose: 110525A. $94.24
Total: $425.13
No crimping required to install the ends. I would suggest calling your nearest/favorite DMC location for details.
I know a couple club cars installed one piece hoses without removing the body, just lifting by jack points like Joe said.
Also, here's my refurb thread if it helps you out any with tools, other parts or techniques: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?15632-Refurbing-a-Very-Early-A-C-System
hippieman9
05-22-2018, 03:17 PM
My air conditioning continually losses gas over about a month. I got a new compressor but the rest is original. Shops pull a vacuum test and can't find a leak. I think it my be the hoses. Also it has has been converted over to the other gas 134a.
Is it possible to change out the 3 hoses with the body on?
Do I really need to get a new condenser?
Where is the best place to get the proper hoses?
Thanks as always!!!
Rick
I recommend using Red Tek. Its compatible with R12 systems and works great. Thats what I have in my Delorean. You can get it on amazon and ebay
bfloyd
05-23-2018, 09:36 AM
I'll second the recommendation of the new DPI hoses and fittings. I replaced all of my hoses two years ago with DPI's new one piece hoses, and they work fantastic. I had a leak in my system earlier this month, but it ended up being a loose fill cap on the compressor fittings not the new hoses.
iflights
05-23-2018, 12:42 PM
I agree on the DPI hoses, connectors, etc. No DIY instructions were included with my kit. Take good before photos of where all the connectors go and note the size of the hoses you are running and install them on the proper side of the car as they are not the same. I found all the installation information across several threads in this forum. bfloyd authored a thread here where I gleaned the most information.
Did the work last spring, and was very pleased to find I still had AC when taking the car out of storage a few weeks ago. Success!
dn010
05-23-2018, 12:45 PM
I'm using Rob Grady's hoses, simple to run up the frame and easy to install, nothing to crimp.
Delorean Industries
05-23-2018, 01:38 PM
Our lines do not require crimping.
DMC-81
05-23-2018, 03:16 PM
Our lines do not require crimping.
Josh, then what do you call the tool provided (with the green handles)? The point is that your solution requires the owner to attach the 2 barbed ends using 2 clamps per hose, whatever you want to call the clamping process. It is just semantics really.
That’s fine, and to each their own, but I wouldn’t say that DPI has the “only modern solution”.
Delorean Industries
05-23-2018, 03:31 PM
Reusable clips that allow for complete orientation during install. Crimps are one time use and require orientation during assembly or the line is not clicked properly. That would not be the correct terminology to refer to it as a crimp.
dodint
05-23-2018, 03:44 PM
Happy to see the positive reviews of the DPI lines as Josh is currently installing them on my car at the moment. :thumbup2:
DMC-81
05-23-2018, 09:06 PM
Reusable clips that allow for complete orientation during install. Crimps are one time use and require orientation during assembly or the line is not clicked properly. That would not be the correct terminology to refer to it as a crimp.
Not to nit-pick, but here is the product video on Eaton's website. Note at 2:46 the narrator states to "crimp" the two clips.
http://videos.eaton.com/detail/videos/hose-and-hose-fittings/video/1721365679001/ez-clip-product-video?autoStart=true&linkBaseURL=http%3A%2F%2Fvideos.eaton.com%2Fdetail %2Fvideos%2Fhose-and-hose-fittings%2Fvideo%2F1721365679001%2Fez-clip-product-video%3FautoStart%3Dtrue
I don't doubt the "cages" and the hose barbs in the fastening system are re-usable, but I wouldn't reuse those style clips, unless we are talking about a different system than pictured on your website.
Again, I'm not knocking it, just clarifying the vendor options for the original poster.
--------------------------------
Rick, the best news is that A/C hoses are not unicorns... There are several options as seen in this thread.
For example, if you want to go it alone, then you can also re-use the original hose ends (if they are still good) by carefully cutting off the crimp and recrimping them on new hoses with a new crimp sleeve. This requires a proper crimping machine like one that an A/C business that custom makes hoses does.
This is mainly advisable if you want to keep your custom OEM "Pad blocks" that connect the hoses horizontally to the compressor, if that's important to you. Like so:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=54129&d=1508202753
Otherwise, you mostly have to go with a 90 degree "GM pad block" version like so:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-Compressor-Pad-Block-90-Aluminum-Part-BL-5622-1-/252196507456
The other fittings are common so you'll want to get new ones. You can see all the options on a website to build your own ...like Cold Hose. https://coldhose.com/
Hose sizes are:
5/16" hose size (liquid line)
13/32" hose size (high pressure)
5/8" hose size (Suction/low pressure) You can get a reduced barrier hose as this one is sometimes hard to fit along the frame.
Etc. for other parts & fittings.
I think it's much less hassle to get hoses at the vendor of your choice though.
cdrusn
07-20-2018, 04:12 PM
Your original complaint was that you were losing Freon over a one month period. I don't think I would jump to replacing the hoses just yet. Did you run green dye through
the system and use a UV light to try and find a leak? A lot of small leaks occur at the high and low side schraeder valves and the green dye will clearly show any bubbles.
I would look harder for the leak and then if you find it then if you just want to change the hoses to update the car you could check out DeLorean Auto Parts hoses, I only had
to lift my body (there's only 3 bolts holding the body down one each side) an inch to slide the hose in one spot. No leaks. Also be careful around the exhaust pipe on the drivers side by the transmission. My original hose got too close and melted a hole in the hose. I used a heat shield to protect the new hose.
Very much a DIY project. :race:
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