Can you remove the bottom half of the evaporator box without removing the evaporator?

[Jason]

Is it possible to remove the bottom half of the evaporator box without evacuating the AC system and disconnecting the evaporator?

I'm able to remove all the screws (after removing the glovebox, knee pad, and center console), but can't figure out a way to maneuver the bottom half free.

[sdg3205]

I believe not. Iirc the two halves sandwich the heater core and evaporator. If you’re 134a then the evacuation and recharge should be fairly reasonable.

Then again, I could be way off :)

[DMC5180]

Is it possible to remove the bottom half of the evaporator box without evacuating the AC system and disconnecting the evaporator?

I'm able to remove all the screws (after removing the glovebox, knee pad, and center console), but can't figure out a way to maneuver the bottom half free.

Is the bottom half completely loose?


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[dn010]

I was not able to find a way to remove only the bottom half. I was able to remove the half that contains the evaporator without removing the half that contains the heater core. The bottom of this portion contains the drain so you have to lift it up to clear the hose.

[sdg3205]

Jonathan - what are you trying to do?

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Jonathan - what are you trying to do?

That would be my first question. The answer to taking out the bottom section only is absolutely not and should be obvious to anyone attempting this repair. Picture heater and evaporator cores surrounded by two rigid plastic housings split equally down the middle...what's going to give here? The only proper removal of the HVAC box is as an assembly. It is possible to separate and remove the R/H evaporator houising and leave the heater core section in place but not without purpously breaking an internal section off causing a blend of hot/cold air which defeats the purpose. I know that it can be done but I would not suggest doing it. Correctly R&R'ing the box, servicing its components, and resealing it with fresh foam and weather sealant is a two day job if properly executed and should only be attempted by someone with the correct amount of time, tools, and knowledge to recognize first what needs to be done and only then pull off the whole job. So lets start with answering why you're there?

[DMC5180]

Well said, Rob. I’ve only done the job once. It did take all weekend and never want to do it again.


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[sdg3205]

When I did mine, I replaced a leaking heater core with a used one that didn’t leak. Now I wish I had replaced both the heater core and evaporator with new parts. I also never want to go in there again.

[Jason]

The evaporator was installed (not by me) without the proper sealing around the edges of the evaporator. I semi fixed it by working through the blower motor hole, but I suddenly felt motivated to try to fix it correctly (I have a lot of stuff apart doing a 2 din radio install), and was trying to figure out if there was a way to do it without messing with the evaporator fittings. It's not so much the evacuation and recharge as I'd like to avoid the risk of having to replace the evaporator and/or hoses because I broke the fittings trying to get them loose.

[Jason]

So I stopped trying to find an easy way out and pulled the evaporator/heater box out as one piece.

Which now leads to the question, if just replacing the evaporator and accumulator, how much oil do I need to add? The service manual says to use a dipstick to measure the oil level in the stock compressor. Does this apply to a Sanden SD5H14 compressor as well?