The Iron Man DeLorean

[Bob635]

Finally, have found some time to begin work on my latest DeLorean Project. I have titled it " the new delorean" or "the Iron Man Delorean".

Why Iron man? Because we have decided that the new "non stock" interior will have the Iron man color scheme. This is red/maroon with gold accents.
The new dashboard will be maroon. The car now has.

1. Vented front disc brakes.
2. Out riggers on the lower A arms
3. Redesigned front end - more on the this later.
4. 36" wide radiator with 3 cooling fans - like the Lotus
5. New AC condensor with pusher fans.
6. Por 15 painted frame.
7. SS braided brake lines.
8. Totally new front storage bonnet. With VERTICAL spare tile. More than 50% more storage area!. You can actually fit a front tire and close the hood.
You can also fit a rear tire but the hood will be up about 1"
9. Stock seats are now POWER- see previous posts.
10. Relocated pedal box to give more room for the gas pedal and big shoes.
11. Full size power windows

AND lots more in the workS

COME TO THE DCS "after party" and see the Iron Man Delorean.

[valdez]

This should be interesting.
Lotus windows? That must have been a pain to make fit.
How did you get red Delorean seats?

[Mike0173]

I'm curious about your dashboard with the spray foam.

I was trying something similar with my binnacle. Just curious if you've done anything like that before and any tips on the process?

I was planning to shape the foam and then cover with a textured spray rubber for durability. Then cover with new vinyl.
Was thinking of a similar process for my dash.

[knightjp]

When I saw the title, I was sort of expecting more in terms of modern or futuristic style tech like a Tesla style screen or digital dash, etc.
Seeing the post, I'm impressed. One of the best mods I believe are the full size windows.

[Josh]

I really like what you did with the trunk. much more space and help the weight distribution a little with the battery placement.

Im wondering how it will affect the airflow through the radiator tho.

[Timebender]

If you haven’t started on the front fascia yet, I’d be more than happy to let you use one of my designs! It’d be neat to see one of those come to life, more or less.

Greg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180929/8293bc7c56234bc365f911583178828f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180929/c8cb5277e2d95eb4260e88408c64ea54.jpg

[Bob635]

I have been busy working on the Iron Man Delorean Infrastructure.

VENTED DISC BRAKES
The vented disc brakes are installed. I video of this installation shot at Delorean Weekend will be posted in the future. This conversion was done on the 97 Delorean Time Machine in Las Vegas but it is the same one on the Iron Man Delorean. I am looking for someone interested putting vented disc brakes on their car at next years Delorean Weekend. I have a spare kit for widening the calipers. All you need to buy is the vented rotors.

STEERING RACK.
I installed Rob Grady's rebuilt steering rack. However, I had him make one alteration. There are now thread adjustments on both sides of the rack. This will allow me to adjust the rack to get maximum travel. The hope is to reduce the steering radius. I have driven a D with a different rack and it clearly had a shorter steering radius. However, the new D owner did not know where the rebuilt rack came from.

36" RADIATOR and FANS
The 36" wide (3 fan) radiator is installed similar to a Lotus. Working on wiring the controller for the fans. VERY DISAPPOINTED at the gauge of the wiring to the stock DeLorean fans. I have seen these wires melt on a number of Deloreans. On a number of other Ds they showed heat damage.

14 GAUGE wire is NOT sufficient for any cooling fans. Let alone RUNNING THESE WIRES all the way to the relay box. VERY BAD Design. It might work but the
voltage drop is way to much with this size of wire. I am installing both a 10 GA positive and negative wiring all the way back to the really box where I am
going to mount the fan controller. The controller is adjustable. But I have a concern that the does not have a current ramp for turning on the fans. that would be nice.

What also disappointed me was that the ground for the fans and the other stuff up front rely on frame grounding. IN A PLACE WHERE water and corrosion are always present. BAD DESIGN AGAIN!

AC CONDENSER.
This is installed with 2 fans. 24" wide similar to stock. Will use a second controller relay for these fans. The radiator fans will have to be tied in.

REWIRING THE WINDOW SWITCHES TO THE DOORS.
I am installing a new center counsole with a storage tray and USB power supplies and 2 cup holders. I MOVED the window switches to the Doors.
YES, there are more than enough wires to do this in the stock delorean wiring harness.

Again, I was dissapointed at the gauge of wires supplying the power window motors. These wires take a very long path to the power window motors
and hence have both a voltage and current drop. STANDARD GM design is at least 12 ga to window motors. Why are Ds only 16 ga?

Anyway I got around this by using the 14/12 ga wires that when to the old HEAVY OUTDATED door lock solenoids. I am using Toby's linear actuators.

The wiring now goes to the doors and then to the FULL SIZE power window motors. I cut out the extra 4 feeting of wiring that went to the center console
switches. Much cleaner now and the cup holder goes right in.

I ran into one glitch. The 12 Ga grounding wire to the passenger door (formerly to the solenoid) appears to be broken. I am guess at the door flex point.
Simply got around this problem by making the red with white strip wire the ground.

YELLOW TURNING LIGHTS IN THE MIRRORS.
There are sufficient extra wires in the doors to do this. I am going to use the yellow heated mirror wire.

NO GROUNDING WIRE TO THE DOORS
I was very surprised to find that there was no grounding wire connection to the SS door. I have added a wire for this. Just good practice.

WHERE IS WALDO ? THE FRONT WIRING HARNESS
While working on running the new cooling fan wiring I had to run these to the front of the car. Well, these wires don't run under the car.
They run THROUGH AN OPEN CHANNEL IN THE FIBERGLASS FRONT END!

You have to remove the window washer bottle cover and the bottle to get to the plugs and wires to run additional wires to the front of the car.
You then need to fish the new wires through this HIDDEN channel.

I will be posting pictures later.

Bob

[Nicholas R]

STEERING RACK.
I installed Rob Grady's rebuilt steering rack. However, I had him make one alteration. There are now thread adjustments on both sides of the rack. This will allow me to adjust the rack to get maximum travel. The hope is to reduce the steering radius. I have driven a D with a different rack and it clearly had a shorter steering radius. However, the new D owner did not know where the rebuilt rack came from.


Sounds like a good project. I'm curious about this one; can you elaborate on how the threads on the sides of the rack increase displacement? To me it would seem the steering radius is primarily a function of 2 things: rack length, and the allowable wheel angle. Unless you actually make a longer rack (add more teeth to it), your displacement of the tie rods wont change. Are you planning to machine additional teeth into the rack?

On the wheel angle, a little more angle than stock, and your tire will rub the sway bar. In fact, if your alignment isn't centered in the rack, you can easily rub the sway bar on one side. I know this because when I got my car, it had this exact issue. The alignment was just a bit off center, so on left turns my right tire would rub the sway bar. With this all being said, this certainly seems like a project with a large enough scale to where you could re-design the sway bar to no longer be capable of interference. If that is the plan then you should be home free on this issue.

[Bob635]

Nicholas,

Very good questions. I just don't have exact answers yet. It looks like the sway bar is actually the limiting issue with steering wheel angle.
The wheels might have to be outset a little and a custom sway bar made.

I am working on the electrical wiring upgrades right now. I will be working on the developing the electric power steering and the shorter turning
radius next year.

Bob

[Bob635]

Here are some pictures

TIPTRONICS SHIFTER
The tripronics shifter has to be extended to fit the Delorean Frame. This shows the initial cut. It is reangled down about 30°.

UPLIFTED BODY
The front and rear spacers are installed to raise the fiberglass body 1" off the frame. The center and rear bolt holes have be drilled and fitted.
Will put in the final bolts once all the wires and pipes underneath are in place.

[Bob635]

Attached is diagram of the Stock Delorean Wiring in the front bonnet area of the car. This shows exactly where the wires are located. An interesting find is the hidden
channel inside the fiberglass frame that the wiring goes through!

Now you know where to look for the actual wires

[Michael]

Now you know where to look for the actual wires

After over 35 years someone finally figured it out

[Bob635]

We have been considering a new steering wheel with various controls that many high end cars have. The question we have had was how to they transfer the control information from the switches. One thought we had was the use of a microprocessor and a single wire data bus. I know that one after market paddle shifter product does do this via blue tooth.

However, in talking with one of my AMC cars friends at the AMC car show in LV yesterday, he said he was working on a similar upgrade for the Javelin. It turns out that Chrysler and other car steering wheels use a ribbon cable that floats
around the steering column when you turn the wheel. These flat ribbon cables are expensive to replace >$100. Anyway. this information makes is possible to use a model multifunction steering wheel in the Iron Man Delorean.

Now we just have to chose a steering column.

Bob

[Bob635]

This should be interesting.
Lotus windows? That must have been a pain to make fit.
How did you get red Delorean seats?

They are custom windows designed to fit the Delorean. JZD came to Cleveland to see these back in 2000.
He said that he argued with his engineers for 2 years to put in full size windows and they gave up.

He knew it could be done and finally saw it for real. He was really excited and smiled. Not something you saw JZD do very often.

[Bob635]

How did you get red Delorean seats?[/QUOTE]

Vinyl maroon paint. I have used this SEM paint for years. It lasts and wears very well especially with a clear coat topping.

[Bob635]

When I saw the title, I was sort of expecting more in terms of modern or futuristic style tech like a Tesla style screen or digital dash, etc.
Seeing the post, I'm impressed. One of the best mods I believe are the full size windows.

We are planning a digit touch screen interface as well as a digital dash.

Something for the future. Kevin Krimm presents on this at Delorean Weekend.

[Bob635]

YELLOW TURNING LIGHTS IN THE MIRRORS.
There are sufficient extra wires in the doors to do this. I am going to use the yellow heated mirror wire.

Well, this turned out to be more difficult and interesting. I started looking for a yellow wire in the wiring harness. No yellow wire?
I wanted to try and fix the ground wire that appeared to be broken so I decided to take off the T Panel and check out the wiring to the doors.
Surprise! The "yellow" heated mirror wires are NOT hooked up!

REWIRING THE WINDOW SWITCHES TO THE DOORS.
I am installing a new center console with a storage tray and USB power supplies and 2 cup holders. I MOVED the window switches to the Doors.
YES, there are more than enough wires to do this in the stock Delorean wiring harness. I have never heard of anyone actually trying to get these to work, so I guess it is good that no one tried. They would have been very frustrated.

I had some old Delorean wiring so I found some wiring plugs and pins to insert and hook up wires to the yellow wires. Now the problem became how to get these wires to the back of the car. I drilled a 1/4" hole into the steel T bar reinforcement and fished the new "yellow" power wires through. So now I can use these to power the yellow turn signals in the mirrors.

I will attach pictures later. It turned out that removing the old flat mirror allows one to unscrew the power mirror motor and gain access to the back of the mirror housing. I cut this with my Dremel saw to match the length of 6 LED COB strip. Glued this strip onto the piece I cut from the mirror housing and the fiberglassed this into the house. Poured 2 part clear decopage coating over the LED strip to make a clear seal.

Repainted the 40 year old mirror housing and reinstalled onto the door with wiring to the yellow wire and additional black ground wire.



Again, I was disappointed at the gauge of wires supplying the power window motors. These wires take a very long path to the power window motors and hence have both a voltage and current drop. STANDARD GM design is at least 12 ga to window motors. Why are Ds only 16 ga?

Anyway I got around this by using the 14/12 ga wires that when to the old HEAVY OUTDATED door lock solenoids. I am using Toby's linear actuators.

The wiring now goes to the doors and then to the FULL SIZE power window motors. I cut out the extra 4 feeting of wiring that went to the center console switches. Much cleaner now and the cup holder goes right in.

I ran into one glitch. The 12 Ga grounding wire to the passenger door (formerly to the solenoid) appears to be broken. I am guess at the door flex point. Simply got around this problem by making the red with white strip wire the ground.

While solving the yellow wire mystery I decided to figure out what is going on with the black 12 ga wire to the passenger door. It turned out that this was result of the strange wiring arrangement to the doors.

The wiring to the doors is composed of 12ga and 14 ga wires. Interestingly, these are split and reorganized above the doors inside the tiny space in the T Panel. The 12 ga wires go one way and the 14 ga wires go another. The 12 ga wires go to the driver side and then across the back to the fuse panel. The 14 gas wires go to the passenger side and then to the fuse box area. You can not assume that each wiring set is for each door.

what this means is that there are actually 8 plug pieces in the tiny T panel space! getting these out and apart is tricky!

what I found is that the window switch wire from the drivers door to the passenger door - would go to the drivers side rear panel across the back package shelf then up the passenger speaker area to the T panel, then down the passenger door to the window switch. This is a waste of 6 feet of wiring. Why not just connect these wire together in the T panel area? So that is what I did.

This was a very inefficient and wasteful wiring design. My pile of removed poorly designed wiring is getting bigger.

So I still have at least 4 - 6 unused wires in each door. I will used some of these for the wings a loft linear actuators. But I still
have spare wires. Might put some illuminated switches in the door. Crazy that these extra wires were essentially unused!

The story continues. Have some final ideas for the new fascia.

[Bob635]

YELLOW TURNING LIGHTS IN THE MIRRORS.
There are sufficient extra wires in the doors to do this. I am going to use the yellow heated mirror wire.

Well, this turned out to be more difficult and interesting. I started looking for a yellow wire in the wiring harness. No yellow wire?
I wanted to try and fix the ground wire that appeared to be broken so I decided to take off the T Panel and check out the wiring to the doors.
Surprise! The "yellow" heated mirror wires are NOT hooked up!

REWIRING THE WINDOW SWITCHES TO THE DOORS.
I am installing a new center console with a storage tray and USB power supplies and 2 cup holders. I MOVED the window switches to the Doors.
YES, there are more than enough wires to do this in the stock Delorean wiring harness. I have never heard of anyone actually trying to get these to work, so I guess it is good that no one tried. They would have been very frustrated.

I had some old Delorean wiring so I found some wiring plugs and pins to insert and hook up wires to the yellow wires. Now the problem became how to get these wires to the back of the car. I drilled a 1/4" hole into the steel T bar reinforcement and fished the new "yellow" power wires through. So now I can use these to power the yellow turn signals in the mirrors.

I will attach pictures later. It turned out that removing the old flat mirror allows one to unscrew the power mirror motor and gain access to the back of the mirror housing. I cut this with my Dremel saw to match the length of 6 LED COB strip. Glued this strip onto the piece I cut from the mirror housing and the fiberglassed this into the house. Poured 2 part clear decopage coating over the LED strip to make a clear seal.

Repainted the 40 year old mirror housing and reinstalled onto the door with wiring to the yellow wire and additional black ground wire.



Again, I was disappointed at the gauge of wires supplying the power window motors. These wires take a very long path to the power window motors and hence have both a voltage and current drop. STANDARD GM design is at least 12 ga to window motors. Why are Ds only 16 ga?

Anyway I got around this by using the 14/12 ga wires that when to the old HEAVY OUTDATED door lock solenoids. I am using Toby's linear actuators.

The wiring now goes to the doors and then to the FULL SIZE power window motors. I cut out the extra 4 feeting of wiring that went to the center console switches. Much cleaner now and the cup holder goes right in.

I ran into one glitch. The 12 Ga grounding wire to the passenger door (formerly to the solenoid) appears to be broken. I am guess at the door flex point. Simply got around this problem by making the red with white strip wire the ground.

While solving the yellow wire mystery I decided to figure out what is going on with the black 12 ga wire to the passenger door. It turned out that this was result of the strange wiring arrangement to the doors.

The wiring to the doors is composed of 12ga and 14 ga wires. Interestingly, these are split and reorganized above the doors inside the tiny space in the T Panel. The 12 ga wires go one way and the 14 ga wires go another. The 12 ga wires go to the driver side and then across the back to the fuse panel. The 14 gas wires go to the passenger side and then to the fuse box area. You can not assume that each wiring set is for each door.

what this means is that there are actually 8 plug pieces in the tiny T panel space! getting these out and apart is tricky!

what I found is that the window switch wire from the drivers door to the passenger door - would go to the drivers side rear panel across the back package shelf then up the passenger speaker area to the T panel, then down the passenger door to the window switch. This is a waste of 6 feet of wiring. Why not just connect these wire together in the T panel area? So that is what I did.

This was a very inefficient and wasteful wiring design. My pile of removed poorly designed wiring is getting bigger.

So I still have at least 4 - 6 unused wires in each door. I will used some of these for the wings a loft linear actuators. But I still
have spare wires. Might put some illuminated switches in the door. Crazy that these extra wires were essentially unused!

The story continues. Have some final ideas for the new fascia.

Here are the mirror pics

[Bob635]

Here are the T Panel door wiring pics

[81dmc]

I did the window switches in the door mod back in 2017 when I finished my electronic cluster install. I utilized relays in the doors to allow control of the passenger window from the drivers side.


I had these cut from a block of abs to replace the non functional door vents.
59496

So, I'm curious. How did you mount your switches?

[dmcjohn]

UPLIFTED BODY
The front and rear spacers are installed to raise the fiberglass body 1" off the frame. The center and rear bolt holes have be drilled and fitted.
Will put in the final bolts once all the wires and pipes underneath are in place.

Why would you want the body to be raised 1 inch? Are you doing that to facilitate a deeper trunk in the front? I feel like I must be missing something here.

[dmcjohn]

I did the window switches in the door mod back in 2017 when I finished my electronic cluster install. I utilized relays in the doors to allow control of the passenger window from the drivers side.


I had these cut from a block of abs to replace the non functional door vents.
59496

So, I'm curious. How did you mount your switches?

Now that is a very cool mod! Nicely done.

[Bob635]

Why would you want the body to be raised 1 inch? Are you doing that to facilitate a deeper trunk in the front? I feel like I must be missing something here.

John,

I have raised the body 1" higher on 2 of my other DeLoreans. I did this first on the 2015 Electric Delorean so we would have more space for batteries
in the front. We immediately realized this made it a lot easier to get in and out of the car, especially if you are older.
I also learned from this experience that it would be possible to put a rear tire in the bonnet in case of a flat tire if the bonnet was redesigned to
accommodate this. During this first conversion, it became obvious that there is so much more room available for storage, than the original body
design allowed.

We next raised up the 97 Delorean Time Machine in order to make it into a BTTF 3 car. Again, this made it a lot easier to get in an out of the car.

Now with the Iron Man Delorean, I am purposely raising the car up by 1" and redesigning the front bonnet storage space. This clearly allows a rear
tire to be put into the bonnet in case of a flat and it also increases the available storage volume by 50%. Note: the stock spare tire now fits vertically
so it take up very little space and allow for large items in the front bonnet.

This is a remarkable improvement in the usefulness of the car and ease of entry and exit.

[Bob635]

Now that is a very cool mod! Nicely done.

Nice work John. I assume you 3D printed the housings. What wires did you use to signal the passenger door?

[Bob635]

Can you provide more details on how you did the door mod.? I am very curious what wires you used.

Can you post a picture of the switches in the door. Did you use the D window switches?

[81dmc]

Can you provide more details on how you did the door mod.? I am very curious what wires you used.

Can you post a picture of the switches in the door. Did you use the D window switches?

I used the yellow wire and one of the existing motor wires as the 85/86 switching power to the passenger side. The other motor wires in each door were soldered directly to the power window feed wires that were in the console, and I used those as main feed to the relays in the door. For all grounds, I just used the solenoid ground wire.

I specifically used Euramtec window switches as they have a matching lock/unlock switch and are illuminated. I'll post a picture once I fish my car out of my cargo trailer. It's being stored in there while I tackle some other projects...

[81dmc]

Nice work Rodolfo. FTFY:)



I assume you 3D printed the housings. What wires did you use to signal the passenger door?

I was initially planning on 3D printing the housings, but I was unsatisfied with the extrememly layered look of the 3d printers a few years ago. Instead, I sent the model to be cnc'd for a few hundred...

[Bob635]

I used the yellow wire and one of the existing motor wires as the 85/86 switching power to the passenger side. The other motor wires in each door were soldered directly to the power window feed wires that were in the console, and I used those as main feed to the relays in the door. For all grounds, I just used the solenoid ground wire.

I specifically used Euramtec window switches as they have a matching lock/unlock switch and are illuminated. I'll post a picture once I fish my car out of my cargo trailer. It's being stored in there while I tackle some other projects...

You used the "yellow" wire. Very interesting! Because this wire was not hooked up in my car. There was not even a wire in the plug socket for it to
connect to. This car is somewhat early ~ 3000. But I have never checked the continuity of a yellow wire on any of my later Ds.

I really need to source the Euramtec window switches. They sound great.

Bob

[81dmc]

You used the "yellow" wire. Very interesting! Because this wire was not hooked up in my car. There was not even a wire in the plug socket for it to
connect to. This car is somewhat early ~ 3000. But I have never checked the continuity of a yellow wire on any of my later Ds.

I really need to source the Euramtec window switches. They sound great.

Bob

My car is earlier than yours.

The yellow wire on mine terminated at the harness plug in the roof box. It was pinned, but there was no pin on the main harness side. So when I changed those connector blocks for deutsch dt sealed connectors, I just added a yellow jumper between the two doors, as well as a jumper between one set of the window motor wires.

[Bob635]

My car is earlier than yours.

The yellow wire on mine terminated at the harness plug in the roof box. It was pinned, but there was no pin on the main harness side. So when I changed those connector blocks for deutsch dt sealed connectors, I just added a yellow jumper between the two doors, as well as a jumper between one set of the window motor wires.

Rodolfo,

I had to do something like this on my car also. The yellow wires were not connected. I wonder if they are connected on any cars?
I have so many extra wires in the doors, trying to figure out what I can do with them.

I have 3D printed a storage box to go where the duct used to be in the door. Thinking of hinging it so that it rotates when the door is open
is stays vertical. This way stuff won't fall out of the box.

[FABombjoy]

If you really want to get fancy, between the wiring for the mirrors, locks, windows, mirror heaters, perimeter lights, etc, there is enough current capacity and redundant wires to create a CAN network to control door-mounted options.

From a DIY perspective, 3x arduino modules with CAN shields - one in each door and one master module mounted centrally - would allow you to send commands to the doors instead of sending direct signals. Never pull a wire or touch the harness again. With sourced matching connectors it could be plug & play.

You would connect door "features" directly to the module, be they perimeter lights, mirror turn signals, mirror control, heated mirror circuits.
Change a pair of existing wires to become the CAN bus wires, and hook the modules to a switched 12v source.
With a little programming you could control any arbitrary number of devices connected to the doors.
Add a touch screen or bluetooth control to the master module.

[81dmc]

If you really want to get fancy, between the wiring for the mirrors, locks, windows, mirror heaters, perimeter lights, etc, there is enough current capacity and redundant wires to create a CAN network to control door-mounted options.

From a DIY perspective, 3x arduino modules with CAN shields - one in each door and one master module mounted centrally - would allow you to send commands to the doors instead of sending direct signals. Never pull a wire or touch the harness again. With sourced matching connectors it could be plug & play.

You would connect door "features" directly to the module, be they perimeter lights, mirror turn signals, mirror control, heated mirror circuits.
Change a pair of existing wires to become the CAN bus wires, and hook the modules to a switched 12v source.
With a little programming you could control any arbitrary number of devices connected to the doors.
Add a touch screen or bluetooth control to the master module.

I would recommend Bob to do this as well. I mean, for the kind of features he's looking at, it would be much easier to run at least one CAN network. I really never learned programming myself, so I opted out of doing that when I modded my car...

[jangell]

You probably don't even have to do CAN, but if you want to hook up a lot of devices, CAN is a good idea just to keep it expandable. If you just need remote modules for the doors and can wire everything else into the master module directly, you can probably just use the Arduino serial, especially if you use an Arduino Mega for the master (lots of pins and hardware serial ports to work with).

I got burned by a bad CAN Arduino module, so now I'm gun-shy about using CAN beyond MegaSquirt (which I did finally get working), but I'm guessing others won't have the problems I did. And the ease of expansion is pretty attractive...

Now I'm trying to think of what else I can put in the doors. :)

-- Joe

[Josh]

Just looking at the condition of most of the connectors (and not water resistant) in the roof box makes me leery of the idea of transferring data over the wiring to the doors.

[jangell]

I forget how many wires go to each door (is there a pinout of the connectors somewhere?), but if you use one existing wire for power and another for ground, you could use all the rest for communication. By which I mean hooking up (say) two wires to the same "send" pin and two to the same "receive" pin, thus providing redundancy for a bad wire. I'll think I'll switch to weather pack connectors before I tackle adding things to my doors, though.

I assume we're all talking about using existing wiring because it's incredibly difficult to run new wires down the doors, right?

-- Joe

[FABombjoy]

Just looking at the condition of most of the connectors (and not water resistant) in the roof box makes me leery of the idea of transferring data over the wiring to the doors.
I think it would be ok. Differential signaling and low current. If the locks and window motors work you should have enough integrity at the connector.

But you can use wireless methods or backup too: https://www.amazon.com/Makerfire-Arduino-NRF24L01-Wireless-Transceiver/dp/B00O9O868G


I assume we're all talking about using existing wiring because it's incredibly difficult to run new wires down the doors, right?
Exactly.

The first good candidate I can see would be the door lock switch wires:
-There is a common pair to each door
-They appear in an easy to locate harness in the relay compartment
-Switch position / state could easily be polled by any microcontroller, with matching state simulated by the "master" controller in the relay compartment
-Failsafe: Even if the microcontroller circuit fails you can still lock/unlock the door manually, or via keyless system.
-Failsafe: Inertia switch unlock trigger wire can be left in place
-Downside: Unless door MCUs are 12v constant, you'd lose central locking via key

[SS Spoiler]

I feel myself slipping further into the
Stone Age trying to figure out what these
guys are talking about!...

[Bob635]

With all the extra wires in the door, I have decided to use 2 of them to put speakers in the door. The speaker will go where the door handle is, because with the pull down strap, this handle is redundant.

I am considering a number of computer interfaces for the touch screen and bar displays. I like the Rasberry Pi, or a micro PC. However, this
is down the road, after the mechanical and body work is done.

I found this statement to be interesting.

-Failsafe: Inertia switch unlock trigger wire can be left in place

With all the problems with the lock/unlock switch and the corrosion of the copper surface after 40+ years does this work anymore?

I have disconnected and removed the heavy, corrosion prone, solenoids from my cars. And I never lock the doors while driving.
We have the wings a loft in Ryan's D. but not the linear actuators on the locks.

[FABombjoy]

-Failsafe: Inertia switch unlock trigger wire can be left in place

With all the problems with the lock/unlock switch and the corrosion of the copper surface after 40+ years does this work anymore?
Works great on my car. The parts involved are all interior mounted and the door lock switches aren't a factor. I think the door switch contacts are brass or we'd hear about them more often.

It works well enough to make me tear out my hair troubleshooting keyless entry. Turned out that I'd lifted the plunger while working on the fuel system. You cannot trigger central locking in that state.

[Bob635]

Well, the current Pandemic has made progress on the Iron Man Delorean a little difficult. The Delorean is in Illinois and we are sheltered in place in Las Vegas.

This has provided us with more time to plan Delorean Weekend and provide facilities. We now have a Pool Table in the quest house. Hopefully, this pandemic will be under control by then.
(Actually, the 6 month life span of the initial pandemic spread - ends in late August. This fact is based on science and not opinion. ) Anyway, after that date, the second wave will occur.
How bad it is going to be will depend on case tracing. Something the US is not equipped to do at this time.

Anyway, so what is happening on the Iron Man Delorean?
We are working on the electric power steering conversion. Tnis will include a new steering wheel with lots of buttons.
I am going to videotape this conversion and post it as another DIY video like the Full-Size Power window installation and the vented disc brake conversion.

I have also figured out the new rear end look. It will be a tail light that goes all the way across simillar to JZD proposed next gen Delorean.

I have also begun 3D printing new etruscans that the pull-down straps go through. I have radiused the edges so it does not cut the strap. It also has a larger opening that makes
installation of the strap a lot easier. If you want to add pull straps to your door panels and need these etruscans, send me an email.

I am planning to have an updated video for Delorean Weekend.

Pictures coming soon.

Bob

[Ron]

Missing posts?

Posts infected with OT, personal attacks, NSFW (esp. without warning) content, high Report counts or COVD19 will be quarantined w/o notice. Please review the Forum Rules (http://dmctalk.org/misc.php?do=showrules).

[Bob635]

As one of the upgrades to the Iron Man Delorean, we are putting in a 360 view and rear view mirror. This is now a reasonable cost technology. in the range of $150 to $450.

We will be purchasing one of these systems in the near future and may have a display delorean at Delorean Weekend.

Bob

[jangell]

I’m very curious about what you’re using for the 360 view.

— Joe

[Bob635]

I’m very curious about what you’re using for the 360 view.

— Joe
Joe,

There are half a dozen 360 view kits available. I was quite surprised how this technology has advanced so quickly. We have 360 view on our Nissan Leaf and find it very usual.

Originally, I was going to try to get a scrap one from a Leaf, but now it is just a kit. I will probably use a plane screen for development and testing and then integrated into the touch screen in the delorean.

I will post updates. Starting to work on the electric power steering.

Bob

[Bob635]

The Iron Man Delorean is in Illinois and we are in Las Vegas waiting for this Covid pandemic to quiet down. I am working on the Arc Reactor for the Center Grill. About 50% larger than a normal Arc reactor. Ryan is working on animating the LED. It looks awesum.

WIll post some pictures soon.

Looking forward to Delorean Weekend later this year.

[Bob635]

The Iron Man Delorean is in Illinois and we are in Las Vegas waiting for this Covid pandemic to quiet down. I am working on the Arc Reactor for the Center Grill. About 50% larger than a normal Arc reactor. Ryan is working on animating the LED. It looks awesum.

WIll post some pictures soon.

Looking forward to Delorean Weekend later this year.

Here is the picture of the Arc Reactor we built over the Winter Solstic.

[Bob635]

Electric Power Steering column. Steering wheel with lots of buttons.

[Bob635]

My last post on the Iron Man Delorean was 7/17/2018. Why so long ago. Well, the Illinois Tollway condemned our house and 4 of our neightbors in Hinsdale, IL. They did this under eminent domain so that they could add some park land on the west side in Hinsdale. It was a deal cut with the Village of Hinsdale, to increase the "green space" in Hinsdale. The Tollway also condemned the Hinsdale Oasis and tore it down. This "green space" was part of the payment to Hinsdale, for the Oasis.

The tollway only offered us half of what our house was worth and we lost $500,000 of our retirement equity. We fought this illegal taking for 4 years. We were about to win our case in July 2022, but 5 minutes before Judge Duffy's decision in our favor, the Tollway played judicial politics and had a different dishonorable judge Curry take over the case. You can read about Curry on "corruptionpedia on the web."

Anyway, the evicted us from our Hinsdale home on Aug 1 2022 and we had 30 days to get out. We had to find another house and quickly move out. We left thousands of dollars of equipment and furniture behind and moved to 50% smaller house in Willowbrook, IL.

We moved the Iron Man Delorean project to our home in Las Vegas and held our 9th Delorean Weekend in Las Vegas Oct 5 - 9, 2022. It was a great show. You can read about it on DeloreanWeekend.com, This year feature Katheryn Delorean as one of our quest speakers.

I am now resuming work on the Iron Man Delorean and will be posting updates over the next few weeks.

[Bob635]

Here are pictures of the start of the new rear fascia. I will also be adding a rear spoiler.

[Bob635]

I added greasable tie rod ends. I was surprised how much easier the car was to steer even without the electric power steering.

[Bob635]

I have removed the front fascia and creating a totally new one. It is much more aerodynamic. Similar to current designs which are parabolic - which is the most aerodynamic.

These are the new brackets that the new fascia mounts to.

[DMCVegas]

Here are pictures of the start of the new rear fascia. I will also be adding a rear spoiler.

Oldsmobile Aurora?

[Bob635]

Oldsmobile Aurora?

Rob,
Glad to see someone is watching. Buick skylark. Olds was too wide.

[Helirich]

Rob,
Glad to see someone is watching. Buick skylark. Olds was too wide.

I?m watching with great interest. Just don?t have anything to add.

[DaraSue]

I?m watching with great interest. Just don?t have anything to add.

Me too.

(Sorry you got hosed by the tollway, Bob. I knew they were trying to dick you around but I didn't realize it was that bad. Is anybody investigating this judge if he's that obviously corrupt?)

[Bob635]

Here is a picture of the new rear tail light bar panel.
This rear illuminated panel will have:

Parking light bar
Brake light bar
Sequential turn signal indicator
Back up lights in bumper
4" x 12" (both sides) programmable lighting effects and color

Tests indicate excellent linear :LED light transfer through the light bar.

Note the machined and polished DMC letters.

[Bob635]

Here is a picture of the initial test wiring for the rear light panels and other rear iights. The 4" x 12" matrix lighting will be driven by an Arduino.
I plan to have a port on the rear fascia support so I can change the Arduino program.

[Bob635]

Managed to make some progress on the new front fascia and support structure.

Just light the rear fascia, I am still installing a foam bumper protection for the 5 mph standard.

This new aerodynamic design will allow installing the air conditioning condenser in the front with its own push/pull fans. By moving these fans
I will be able to install the radiator at a steeper angle and hence a larger radiator.

By now having the AC condenser blow HOT AIR onto the radiator, I should have a much more efficient cooling system which is especially important in the
hot las Vegas and Phoenix and Texas summers.

I plan on having a new custom size aluminum radiator built with 3 fans - just like Lotus does for their cars. But some how Lotus did not have a 3 fan
radiator design for the Delorean. Why not? Obviously, they knew better.

[Bob635]

I am making good progress on the new dash pad and new dash AC ducting.

I will be posting pictures in the few weeks. Had to go back to IL to do some work.

Any D owners want to come by and visit, let me know.

Bob