Inner Door Seal

[SoCalDMC12]

Many years ago (maybe 10) I bought some new inner door weather stripping from DMC, and am now getting ready to replace the driver's side seal. Still seems to hold out the leaks, but is looking a bit rough.

The instructions in the workshop manual seem pretty straight forward, though it doesn't make any mention of the retaining clips. I've heard that this is a tough job, but it seems simple enough. Anyone who has done this have any input?

- Geoff

[David T]

An easy job that requires almost no tools. Pull the old seal off. Trim any headliner materiel that goes "over the top" of the seam. Line the joint up by the door switches and install a piece of tubing into the cut ends. Get a large wooden mallet to bop the seal all the way on evenly. It's easier than using your hands to try to do it. You do not have to remove the metal clips, just put the seal over them. Be aware that the vendors sell different height seals to accommodate the early cars so get the right seal for your doors. Spray some silicone on the seals so they don't rip as the door rubs on them and clean the S/S of the doors on the inside so they are smooth and clean and slide easily against the rubber seals.

[DMC-81]

^ Agreed, except at least DMC's product offering already has the small tube attached in one end to facilitate joining the ends, like so:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=46817&d=1477162231

Also, I never heard about different products for early cars. That's a new one to me. I have a fairly early car, and I do know that DMC redesigned the seals in 2016 based on a factory change that never got implemented in 1982. They essentially found a later factory engineering drawing to address issues with the original design, and had that design made. Like so:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=54622&d=1511210648

I noticed the company stamp in the rubber, and that these have a shorter "wipe" and it was moved outward. Also, the drainage holes were moved to the outside. These are the ones that I installed last year and they work awesome. I highly recommend them.
I applied clear silicone spray to the new seals and the door surfaces that it meets. Leaving the car outside in the sun for a few hours after installation helps the rubber settle a bit if necessary.

[SoCalDMC12]

Thanks, guys. This will be my project tomorrow!

I never knew about special seals for early cars, but I did hear about the new design that was released in 2016. I purchased my seals from DMC well before 2016... they've just been waiting to be put on. Really more of an aesthetic thing than anything else... we don't get much rain in Southern Cal, so the weather seals don't really get a work out. But the original ones are falling apart a bit near the windshield, so... time to change.

[Bullitt]

^ Agreed, except at least DMC's product offering already has the small tube attached in one end to facilitate joining the ends, like so:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=46817&d=1477162231

Also, I never heard about different products for early cars. That's a new one to me. I have a fairly early car, and I do know that DMC redesigned the seals in 2016 based on a factory change that never got implemented in 1982. They essentially found a later factory engineering drawing to address issues with the original design, and had that design made. Like so:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=54622&d=1511210648

I noticed the company stamp in the rubber, and that these have a shorter "wipe" and it was moved outward. Also, the drainage holes were moved to the outside. These are the ones that I installed last year and they work awesome. I highly recommend them.
I applied clear silicone spray to the new seals and the door surfaces that it meets. Leaving the car outside in the sun for a few hours after installation helps the rubber settle a bit if necessary.

I would like to see a photo from the edge of that one, so I could really see the difference. I bought new from Deloreango, they lasted a week before they were torn apart. They were way to sticky, and the rubber would stick to itself so that it eventually tore off. Beeing so thin, it would not seal properly along the windshield. (On my car, VIN 1598 ) I should do as you did next time, and apply some silicone spray to it so it will not stick.

[DMC-81]

I would like to see a photo from the edge of that one, so I could really see the difference. I bought new from Deloreango, they lasted a week before they were torn apart. They were way to sticky, and the rubber would stick to itself so that it eventually tore off. Beeing so thin, it would not seal properly along the windshield. (On my car, VIN 1598 ) I should do as you did next time, and apply some silicone spray to it so it will not stick.

I don't have a photo of the cross section but here are some photos of it installed. I previously had issues with doors shutting hard and sticking on the seals. These new seals solved that problem and they are tight enough to seal from the wind and water. It was a night and day difference.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=54629&d=1511211617

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=54628&d=1511211476

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=54627&d=1511211372


To the OP, here are some other installation tips:
1) Ensure the wipe (the bead along the seal) is oriented outward, away from the door. You can get it wrong, so watch out for that.
2) Be liberal in your application of silicone and you may have to reapply
3) Drop your window before you shut the door for the first time. That way, if the door sticks on the new seal, you can use the inside door release and leverage on the inside to open it.... Otherwise it's a good way to break you exterior door handle.
4) If you are using previous version of DMC's seals, try to bias your tapping with the mallet a little bit to the outside of the seal ( i.e. away from the door).

[Rich]

I would like to see a photo from the edge of that one, so I could really see the difference........

Here is an end-on photo I took of a recent (current design) DMCH door seal before installation. It is next to the old door seal I removed, one that I think was the older DMCH style. That one lasted about 10 years.

The newer/current DMCH seal (on left) has a shorter bulb lip and carries more of the stiff base material into the bulb section than the other one did. Also has a more complex set of flutes where it grips the door flange.

Installed it successfully on our early-VIN D last Fall and did not use any clips.

It works just fine.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=53815&d=1507083898

[Bullitt]

Thanks! Looks good. Ill buy the new DMCH version.

Sent fra min F5321 via Tapatalk

[SoCalDMC12]

Yup... pretty straight forward job. Thanks for the tips. The rubber mallet was definitely helpful; trying to seat the seal by hand all the way around would have been torture.

A couple of notes:
- The replacement seal was about an inch too long, so I had to trim a bit off the end. Now, there's about an 1/8" gap between the ends. In a few days, after I'm sure the new seal is settled, I'll hit the joint with a bead of silicone to finish off the job.
- The power door locks aren't working correctly now... driver's door won't unlatch when the key is turned from the passenger side. I'm guessing that the striker pin now needs to be adjusted. (It was a little sensitive even prior to the new seal being installed.) I'm hoping that after a few days the new seal may be seated a bit more snuggly and the alignment issue will go away. Otherwise, I've got one more job to do! (If I remember correctly, adjusting the pin isn't a big deal.)

Thanks for the tips!

- Geoff

[David T]

Both latches must achieve 2nd locking position on both doors for the door locks to work. It may take an adjustment of the striker pins or just letting the seals "take a set". Often the striker pins are adjusted to compensate for old, tired door seals so when you put new ones on they must be readjusted. I like to cut the ends just a tad longer and then push the ends together so they stay tight. Use a touch of black silicone and you can hide the seam.

[Rich]

The seal might not have been too long. In any case you don't need glue to mend it although it does look good that way.

Here's a gap-free and cut-free technique. Next time try starting with both ends together at the front door jamb, butted up to each other and mounted to the jamb flange. You'll have a huge loop of seal to attach starting from there. (Be sure there isn't a twist in the seal when you start.) Work your way back alternating the seal application between the upper and lower door sections.

As you get toward the end of the loop of the door seal somewhere near the rear of the door it may look like you have excess seal material - it will create kind of a 'U'. Then pull off a foot or two of the seal near that loop and, while pushing the door seal so as to shorten each section as you re-apply it, you will get to the point where you have compressed the 'excess' seal material enough that the last bit goes on smoothly. If not, then keep working the loop along, pushing on the trailing bit while pulling up the leading bit. You will eventually get it all on there without trimming.

What happens is that there is enough pulling or bending action during normal application that the applied seal seems to be too long. The idea is to keep the stretching to a minimum and make up for it by compressing a section or two if necessary. It comes out nicely.

And it works both ways.....you can make a 'short' seal longer. In your case, Geoff, the 1/8 inch joint gap you ended up with will disappear if you pull off the seal off along the (lower) sill up to the joint, then make a good zero-gap seal joint at the ends and then work the seal back on from there along the sill. You'll be stretching it a bit along that section, which is fine.


Yup... pretty straight forward job. Thanks for the tips. The rubber mallet was definitely helpful; trying to seat the seal by hand all the way around would have been torture.

A couple of notes:
- The replacement seal was about an inch too long, so I had to trim a bit off the end. Now, there's about an 1/8" gap between the ends. In a few days, after I'm sure the new seal is settled, I'll hit the joint with a bead of silicone to finish off the job.

- Geoff

[opethmike]

I prefer inner door walrus.

[SoCalDMC12]

And it works both ways.....you can make a 'short' seal longer. In your case, Geoff, the 1/8 inch joint gap you ended up with will disappear if you pull off the seal off along the (lower) sill up to the joint, then make a good zero-gap seal joint at the ends and then work the seal back on from there along the sill. You'll be stretching it a bit along that section, which is fine.

Interesting... black silicone, or stretch the seal a bit. I'm almost afraid to pull the seal off again... now that it's settled for a day, my power door locks seem to be working again. On the other hand, it would be nice to not have a silicone bead. I guess either way is fine... it's only an 1/8" gap.

But this is definitely good info for when I do my passenger side door. I have the new seal, but since that door doesn't get used very much, the original seal still looks very good.

[SoCalDMC12]

Both latches must achieve 2nd locking position on both doors for the door locks to work. It may take an adjustment of the striker pins or just letting the seals "take a set". Often the striker pins are adjusted to compensate for old, tired door seals so when you put new ones on they must be readjusted. I like to cut the ends just a tad longer and then push the ends together so they stay tight. Use a touch of black silicone and you can hide the seam.

Amazing... a few hours of pressure from the doors and my door locks are happy again. I wonder if this was a problem at the factory. Between the seals and everything else that needed adjusting, these doors must have been a major bottleneck on the assembly line.

[opethmike]

Get it?!?!?! Door walrus?!?!?!

[SoCalDMC12]

Get it?!?!?! Door walrus?!?!?!

Just got it. lol

[SoCalDMC12]

The seal might not have been too long. In any case you don't need glue to mend it although it does look good that way.

Here's a gap-free and cut-free technique. Next time try starting with both ends together at the front door jamb, butted up to each other and mounted to the jamb flange. You'll have a huge loop of seal to attach starting from there. (Be sure there isn't a twist in the seal when you start.) Work your way back alternating the seal application between the upper and lower door sections.

As you get toward the end of the loop of the door seal somewhere near the rear of the door it may look like you have excess seal material - it will create kind of a 'U'. Then pull off a foot or two of the seal near that loop and, while pushing the door seal so as to shorten each section as you re-apply it, you will get to the point where you have compressed the 'excess' seal material enough that the last bit goes on smoothly. If not, then keep working the loop along, pushing on the trailing bit while pulling up the leading bit. You will eventually get it all on there without trimming.

What happens is that there is enough pulling or bending action during normal application that the applied seal seems to be too long. The idea is to keep the stretching to a minimum and make up for it by compressing a section or two if necessary. It comes out nicely.

And it works both ways.....you can make a 'short' seal longer. In your case, Geoff, the 1/8 inch joint gap you ended up with will disappear if you pull off the seal off along the (lower) sill up to the joint, then make a good zero-gap seal joint at the ends and then work the seal back on from there along the sill. You'll be stretching it a bit along that section, which is fine.

So today I noticed that the seal came loose at the lower sill. Since I had to tap it back into place anyway, I tried your procedure and it worked like a charm... seal fits perfectly now! Thanks for the tip.

[SoCalDMC12]

Well this is a bummer. When I installed the new door seal a few weeks ago, I sprayed it down with silicone, as some suggested. But it's already damaged. :-( 58200

[DMC-81]

Well this is a bummer. When I installed the new door seal a few weeks ago, I sprayed it down with silicone, as some suggested. But it's already damaged. :-( 58200

Yes, that is a bummer. :( These "new" seals were the pre-2016 design, correct?

[Delorean Industries]

This wear issue requires either door adjustment or contouring of the fiberglass body to assist with seal fitment along some of doors tighter points.

[DMC-81]

This wear issue requires either door adjustment or contouring of the fiberglass body to assist with seal fitment along some of doors tighter points.

Not necessarily true, at least not in my case.

-------------

I had the exact same wear pattern, both with the original seals, and with new, pre-2016 design seals. The bulb on both seals hung up at the same corner of the windshield and the corner where the roof section begins at the rear. (2 spots on each door, left front, left rear, right front, and right rear).

Because I had enough of door issues, I decided to try the newly designed seals, and was prepared to do this contouring at the same time. I removed both seals and tried opening and shutting the doors. They worked awesome. No alignment issues, even on my early doors. I then did about a millimeter on one of the 4 spots (right rear), thinking that this was necessary, then decided to install the newly designed seals and check before proceeding any further.

Lo and behold, the seals cleared the door frame in these 4 trouble spots and of course, elsewhere. This is because the bulb sits properly upright enough to give clearance, not angled towards the door frame. I carefully inspected all 4 areas while slowly closing the door to ensure there was no hanging up issues. There weren't, and I didn't have to do the contouring where I did, because there was plenty of clearance. I still did the recommended silicone application and letting the car sit in the sun for a few hours after installation.

Afterward, my doors shut beautifully, for the first time since owning the car. No slamming, no door stuck shut, no broken door latches, no need to constantly reapply silicone. Just 2 doors that close gently with one hand, and no bulb wear apparent in these 4 areas after a year.

Now, I'm not suggesting that new DMC seals will cure all misalignment issues with our doors, but these seals solved my issues.

I would suggest removing the seals and testing the doors operation to determine if you need this contouring procedure done. Then, properly install new design seals and carefully inspect these 4 areas for clearance. Finally, if necessary, remove the seals and do the surgery.

[SoCalDMC12]

Yes, that is a bummer. :( These "new" seals were the pre-2016 design, correct?

Correct. Just got around to installing one on the driver's door this year. The seal on the passenger door still looks pretty new... been on there since I've had the car (13 yrs.) -- I presume it's original.

[SoCalDMC12]

Not necessarily true, at least not in my case.

-------------

I had the exact same wear pattern, both with the original seals, and with new, pre-2016 design seals. The bulb on both seals hung up at the same corner of the windshield and the corner where the roof section begins at the rear. (2 spots on each door, left front, left rear, right front, and right rear).

Because I had enough of door issues, I decided to try the newly designed seals, and was prepared to do this contouring at the same time. I removed both seals and tried opening and shutting the doors. They worked awesome. No alignment issues, even on my early doors. I then did about a millimeter on one of the 4 spots (right rear), thinking that this was necessary, then decided to install the newly designed seals and check before proceeding any further.

Lo and behold, the seals cleared the door frame in these 4 trouble spots and of course, elsewhere. This is because the bulb sits properly upright enough to give clearance, not angled towards the door frame. I carefully inspected all 4 areas while slowly closing the door to ensure there was no hanging up issues. There weren't, and I didn't have to do the contouring where I did, because there was plenty of clearance. I still did the recommended silicone application and letting the car sit in the sun for a few hours after installation.

Afterward, my doors shut beautifully, for the first time since owning the car. No slamming, no door stuck shut, no broken door latches, no need to constantly reapply silicone. Just 2 doors that close gently with one hand, and no bulb wear apparent in these 4 areas after a year.

Now, I'm not suggesting that new DMC seals will cure all misalignment issues with our doors, but these seals solved my issues.

I would suggest removing the seals and testing the doors operation to determine if you need this contouring procedure done. Then, properly install new design seals and carefully inspect these 4 areas for clearance. Finally, if necessary, remove the seals and do the surgery.

Well... something just rose to the top of my weekend "to do" list! Thanks for the info!


This wear issue requires either door adjustment or contouring of the fiberglass body to assist with seal fitment along some of doors tighter points.
Hopefully it won't come to this!

[SS Spoiler]

I've heard a 1984 Ford Granada trunk gasket works well...

[dn010]

I replaced my seals maybe a year or two ago and they're already ripped as well. Not only that, my doors do not open or close easy with them compared to closing the doors with the seals removed but the biggest thing is they still don't leak a single drop! which is why I have left them installed even though they look rough in spots.

I'm sorry if you mentioned it and I missed it, but are you referring to DMCH new seals? I wouldn't mind trying different inner seals but I'm a little nervous about going to seals with a smaller bulb that could possibly leak again.




Not necessarily true, at least not in my case.

-------------

I had the exact same wear pattern, both with the original seals, and with new, pre-2016 design seals. The bulb on both seals hung up at the same corner of the windshield and the corner where the roof section begins at the rear. (2 spots on each door, left front, left rear, right front, and right rear).

Because I had enough of door issues, I decided to try the newly designed seals, and was prepared to do this contouring at the same time. I removed both seals and tried opening and shutting the doors. They worked awesome. No alignment issues, even on my early doors. I then did about a millimeter on one of the 4 spots (right rear), thinking that this was necessary, then decided to install the newly designed seals and check before proceeding any further.

Lo and behold, the seals cleared the door frame in these 4 trouble spots and of course, elsewhere. This is because the bulb sits properly upright enough to give clearance, not angled towards the door frame. I carefully inspected all 4 areas while slowly closing the door to ensure there was no hanging up issues. There weren't, and I didn't have to do the contouring where I did, because there was plenty of clearance. I still did the recommended silicone application and letting the car sit in the sun for a few hours after installation.

Afterward, my doors shut beautifully, for the first time since owning the car. No slamming, no door stuck shut, no broken door latches, no need to constantly reapply silicone. Just 2 doors that close gently with one hand, and no bulb wear apparent in these 4 areas after a year.

Now, I'm not suggesting that new DMC seals will cure all misalignment issues with our doors, but these seals solved my issues.

I would suggest removing the seals and testing the doors operation to determine if you need this contouring procedure done. Then, properly install new design seals and carefully inspect these 4 areas for clearance. Finally, if necessary, remove the seals and do the surgery.

[DMC-81]

Well... something just rose to the top of my weekend "to do" list! Thanks for the info!

You are welcome. Interestingly, I was fortunate enough to get a personal tutorial of the installation procedure for these seals from Stephen Wynne while he was visiting DMCFL last year. Let me know if you have any questions. I'm happy to help as best I can.


I replaced my seals maybe a year or two ago and they're already ripped as well. Not only that, my doors do not open or close easy with them compared to closing the doors with the seals removed but the biggest thing is they still don't leak a single drop! which is why I have left them installed even though they look rough in spots.

Yes, I was right there with you with the pre-2016 design seals. The doors didn't leak, but closed hard, got stuck if I didn't keep them lubed, and eventually tore. I even broke a plastic exterior door handle one time when I was in a hurry.


I'm sorry if you mentioned it and I missed it, but are you referring to DMCH new seals? I wouldn't mind trying different inner seals but I'm a little nervous about going to seals with a smaller bulb that could possibly leak again.

Yes, I'm referring to the newly redesigned (after 2016) DMCH inner door seals. You can read about them here:
http://support.delorean.com/news/21/new-factory-designed-inner-door-seals.aspx

See post 3, 6, and especially 7 in this thread for pictures of them. As for leaks, I accidentally had the chance to test them this summer when I got caught in a torrential Florida downpour while at a store (normally, the car never gets wet)..... the car never leaked a drop. Your mileage may vary, but switching to these seals didn't make my car prone to leaking.

[Rich]

Well this is a bummer. When I installed the new door seal a few weeks ago, I sprayed it down with silicone, as some suggested. But it's already damaged. :-(

That's very unfortunate.

I can't quite tell from your photo of the torn seal.....do you have the seal installed with the "fat side" of the bulb profile toward the door or toward the frame? You can see in the photo in Post #7 that the latest DMCH seal is asymmetric in profile. The bulb sticks out toward one side ("fat side?") and not very much on the other.

Mine are installed with the fat side toward the frame. Trouble-free after 1 year...

Installing them the other way around - fat side toward door opening - puts a bit more of the seal profile in the path of the inner edge of the door profile at the top of the A-pillar where it needs to clear the seal. If the door rubs too much on the seal and grabs it on its way past then it will eventually tear it.

You might give yours a look to check - on both doors.

[DMC-81]

That's very unfortunate.

I can't quite tell from your photo of the torn seal.....do you have the seal installed with the "fat side" of the bulb profile toward the door or toward the frame? You can see in the photo in Post #7 that the latest DMCH seal is asymmetric in profile. The bulb sticks out toward one side ("fat side?") and not very much on the other.

Mine are installed with the fat side toward the frame. Trouble-free after 1 year...

Installing them the other way around - fat side toward door opening - puts a bit more of the seal profile in the path of the inner edge of the door profile at the top of the A-pillar where it needs to clear the seal. If the door rubs too much on the seal and grabs it on its way past then it will eventually tear it.

You might give yours a look to check - on both doors.


+1. Correct. Described another way, both versions of seals need to be installed with the "wipe" portion (the part that is torn in the OP's photo) pointed away from the door/opening. Here's a close up of mine if it helps:
58236

I think they are installed right., but again, definitely something to check.

Rich, I don't know if you caught this, but the OPs "new" seals are pre-2016 redesign seals that he had for a few years.

Also, I was advised not to try to bunch up, or stretch the seal around the door. Start with the end that has the smaller tube pre installed and position it on the upper half by the door switches. Then, just lay the seal around the door and install it in its natural position, up the windshield section, around the roof section, and down towards the bottom section . There's extra length allowed for a custom fit. When finished, mark the end (without the smaller tube pre-installed). This end should be in the lower half by the switches. Cut the extra length, and fit them together. I allowed 1 to 2 / 8ths of an inch. Then pulled 4-6 inches of both ends off the frame again and then installed them. That way I avoided a gap, or the need to apply RTV. This way, Applying RTV is optional. Like so:
58237

I used tin snips to cut the seal. There was only 2-4 inches leftover.

I think if you try to make the whole length fit, the seal can tend to pop off.

[SoCalDMC12]

That's very unfortunate.

I can't quite tell from your photo of the torn seal.....do you have the seal installed with the "fat side" of the bulb profile toward the door or toward the frame? You can see in the photo in Post #7 that the latest DMCH seal is asymmetric in profile. The bulb sticks out toward one side ("fat side?") and not very much on the other.

Mine are installed with the fat side toward the frame. Trouble-free after 1 year...

Installing them the other way around - fat side toward door opening - puts a bit more of the seal profile in the path of the inner edge of the door profile at the top of the A-pillar where it needs to clear the seal. If the door rubs too much on the seal and grabs it on its way past then it will eventually tear it.

You might give yours a look to check - on both doors.

I believe it's installed it as you described... I'll check tomorrow. Fortunately, in southern California we don't see much rain, so leaks are a concern. It's just frustrating because the reason I installed the new seal is because the old one had become tattered. I still have another seal (didn't install on the passenger side bc the original is still good), so I can replace this one again. :-P

[JohnZ]

I chime in to absolutely endorse the DeloreanGo inner door seals. We installed those seals yesterday, and I was afraid of tearing them, or have the door catch on them, or whatever doomsday scenario I read on the various threads? my driver door would stick to the original seals, that were all torn apart especially in the corners.

Well? after the appliance of the new seals it?s like having another car! We previously slightly adjusted both door and striker pins to have it close properly. Then it was just a matter of installing the seal with a rubber mallet (mandatory) and voil?! As if the seals were not even on! The door opens and close like never before, and finally I don?t have to push the door with my knee from the inside to have it open! :Headspin:

So bottom line is: the DeloreanGo seals are the way to go! Now I?m waiting for some rain to actually test them? :)