Electrical quit while trying to start car

[hippieman9]

Ok, Let me see if I can explain this. I went to take my car for a drive today, I turned the ignition on and heard the fuel pump prime (Daves's RPM relay), turned the key to "start" engine cranks. car didn't start. Attempted to crank it again, and did 2 more times. Then I turned the key to off (car has yet to start) Then turned back to "run" and all the lights and electrical in the car wouldn't work, no console lights, doom lights, no fuel pump, no warning lights.... But i look up and see the door edge lights are lit. So I open the engine compartment and no courtesy light. I check the battery voltage at the Jump start lead in the engine bay and I get 6v DC. I then open the battery compartment and touch the positive terminal and Bam! all the lights come back on. I turn the key to "start" and it fires right up. Took it for a drive and it drove perfect.
Any ideas as to what would of caused this electrical conundrum?

[Rich]

....I then open the battery compartment and touch the positive terminal and Bam! all the lights come back on. I turn the key to "start" and it fires right up.

Based on this info you might have a problem with the positive batt. terminal. Not sure what you meant by "touching it" but if it's loose and then you make the connection better by touching it or moving it then you could get this kind of result.

Check both of the battery terminal bolts. Sure they are tight. Check the main ground cable connection. Go from there.

[Elvis]

I had this once when I did not tighten the battery connection.

you are aware that the started draws several hundred amps and therefore the connection
must be really good ?

[JETS 81 DMC]

You should also check for corrosion on the battery terminals and battery main ground point besides just being tight. Also check the positive at the starter for same.

[hippieman9]

Cool, I will check these out. The PO installed a New battery in March when I bought the car just because, he knew I was driving it from AZ to NC. He also had installed a battery shut off installed in on the positive terminal. Not sure how I feel about that though.

[Jonathan]

I was just thinking battery cut-off switch. Agreed with the others that it is likely all the way back to the battery connections itself given how many things are affected and what you (inadvertently) did to get it going again. I would not worry about it being on the positive versus the negative terminal. Several of us had that conversation a while back. Many put the switch on the positive because of the lack of room in at the back of the battery compartment where the negative terminal is.

Post a pic or two of your cut-off switch as it is installed and maybe someone can spot something that's causing your troubles. Or it just isn't tight. Likely easy to resolve one way or another.

[David T]

It is going to wind up being either a bad connection (most likely) or a bad battery (possible but unlikely).

[hippieman9]

It is going to wind up being either a bad connection (most likely) or a bad battery (possible but unlikely).

yeah, I am thinking the battery disconnect was slightly loose. but that doesn't explain why the door lights were on but nothing else.

[David T]

The door lights require so little power so they would work till you tried cranking.

[Ron]

yeah, I am thinking the battery disconnect was slightly loose. but that doesn't explain why the door lights were on but nothing else.I'd guess the poor connection wasn't supplying the AUX/other relays with enough power to energize them. And since the door lights are one of the few things that aren't fed through relays and require very little power (as David mentioned), they lit.
(Similar to the key being off and the battery nearly dead.)

[hippieman9]

I'd guess the poor connection wasn't supplying the AUX/other relays with enough power to energize them. And since the door lights are one of the few things that aren't fed through relays and require very little power (as David mentioned), they lit.
(Similar to the key being off and the battery nearly dead.)

hmmm. OK. Well I have been working on cleaning connections, and found the Positive post on the Rt pontoon for jump starting was a little corroded. This issue has only happened once so I'll keep my eye on it. Just hope I don't have any issues on my way to DCS!

[Ron]

Good luck!

If it does, check the shutoff switch connections first. The cables don't have enough slack/flex to keep from loosening some of the bulkier ones up, imo. Clean and tighten often...

[David T]

Get yourself a portable battery pack. The better ones come with a light and an air compressor, very handy.

[hippieman9]

Get yourself a portable battery pack. The better ones come with a light and an air compressor, very handy.

Yes, I already have one. But thanks!

I drove the car from AZ to NC with no issues. But You never know when something may pop up. fingers crossed for an uneventful drive Tuesday to DCS.