PDA

View Full Version : Engine Delorean Sputters/Bucks on acceleration wont run right "stage 2"



txdmc
08-07-2018, 06:22 PM
Alright I give with this car, I cant get it to run correctly. Heres what has been done and checked:

Rebuilt engine - new high compression ratio pistons, rings, bearings, all sealed up, performance cams (hervey)
Fuel pump - new pump DMCH, filter, cleaned out tank, rebuilt CPR/WUR, Rebuilt fuel distributor, new lines, cleaned injectors
Vac lines all new, hooked up correctly, double checked multiple times
no vac leaks, did a smoke test, the one i found at the pipe of agony was fixed
timing is set to 13 degrees check with a timing light
primary pressure regulator is set at 5.4 bar, control pressure is good
has the delorean go uk exhaust with no cats
frquency valve buzzes and has power. power in open loop and buzz in closed loop
new plugs (delorean bosch) cap, wires, rotor (seated on correctly, checked the wire placement multiple times, all secured on the cap and plugs, not rotated 180)

What happens-
if you pull all of the injectors and put them in jars they all spray evenly and put out the same amount of fuel. I have noticed that they do drip a little after i release the pressure plate to go back to rest. When I "crack" the injectors to reset a base line the idle is good in open loop, the car has power and still has some hesitation, I hear a dull popping sound from the exhaust as i drive, gets worse the more gas you give it. when you let off the gas and the idle swings from 500 to 1200. the car will almost shut off unless you give it gas. you have very little movement on the mixture setting screw, to lean it shuts off to rich it shuts off

if you attempt to hook up the o2 sensor for closed loop you cant even get the thing to run right, nor can you get it into speck with a dwell meter, the idle improves and holds at 800 ish but it drives like crap and sputters and bucks worse than open loop.

the voltage on the dash gauge shows just above 8 with any accessory on (alternator hervey), i have charged my enersys odessy battery fully over night and it still drops. interesting thing is when in closed loop it holds better and no idle swing, when it is in open loop the idle swings with any electrical load, so badly the car will shut off

So im at a loss here.

Jonathan
08-07-2018, 07:09 PM
Sounds like you've been pretty thorough going through things. A couple thoughts (brainstorming mostly, not trying to imply these wouldn't already have been checked)...

- With the install of the replacement fuel pump, are you certain the pressure side line from the pump is going to the correct hardline and the return hose to the other hardline?

- With that 8 volts on your gauge... do you see it higher than that at any other time? Like up around 13 volts when you turn the key to accessories? Any reason to suspect a problem with the battery warning light in the instrument cluster? Does it come on when you turn the key to accessories? Any special wiring connections at the alternator that might have been hooked-up incorrectly?

opethmike
08-07-2018, 07:18 PM
Not super helpful to your problem, but once you get your car running correctly - 13 degrees is not enough advance for 'hot' cams in a PRV. You want at least 16, and if you can run premium fuel, go 18-20 to make the most of the cams.

txdmc
08-07-2018, 07:36 PM
Yes the light comes on, gets right at 13v on the dash gauge. All the connections for the alternator are correct.

Well I’ll advance the timing some, I am running & 93


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bitsyncmaster
08-07-2018, 08:09 PM
Trouble shoot that 8 volt reading and you may fix many engine problems.

Have you done a fuel pressure check?

txdmc
08-07-2018, 08:10 PM
Yes 5.4 bar primary pressure


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

SS Spoiler
08-07-2018, 08:14 PM
Didn't know about 16 degree advance running DPI's cam....

David T
08-07-2018, 09:43 PM
Check with your vendor on the correct base timing for ignition for the cams. I would also verify the correct timing on the cams and do a compression test. Recheck valve clearances. Check and check again the firing order. Plug all of the vacuum lines coming of the motor and see if that helps. Verify proper vacuum and mechanical ignition advance.

opethmike
08-07-2018, 09:45 PM
Didn't know about 16 degree advance running DPI's cam....

You're always going to want to advance base timing with hotter cams. When I ran DPI's cams in my PRV, Josh advised me to run 18 degrees. Being EFI and able to get actual good fueling control, I was able to run 22 degrees without any pinging.

txdmc
08-07-2018, 10:14 PM
I increased the base timing to 18 degrees. That seemed to just change the pitch of the noise. I did mange to run it in closed loop, got the dwell meter swing to around 20. But still when you give it gas it acts like the fuel is cutting out. A slight press on the throttle gets it driving but while driving if you give it more gas it just bucks and cuts out.

Firing order is correct because after re assembly I drove it about 40 miles round trip on the highway and it ran great. The valves have been adjust 2 times to the factory spec.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

opethmike
08-07-2018, 10:18 PM
Yeah... definitely wait to do that until you resolve the existing engine problem. Not going to solve your problem; was intended as advice for after problem is solved.

txdmc
08-07-2018, 10:38 PM
Also to add to this the rpm never changes it just acts like fuel starvation


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Silverbullet
08-07-2018, 11:41 PM
Well, there is a difference between fuel pressure and fuel volume.... Maybe look at volume... a hose can almost be blocked and pressure is the same...

Ron
08-07-2018, 11:45 PM
I increased the base timing to 18 degrees. That seemed to just change the pitch of the noise. I did mange to run it in closed loop, got the dwell meter swing to around 20. But still when you give it gas it acts like the fuel is cutting out. A slight press on the throttle gets it driving but while driving if you give it more gas it just bucks and cuts out.

Firing order is correct because after re assembly I drove it about 40 miles round trip on the highway and it ran great. The valves have been adjust 2 times to the factory spec.
$.02
First, I agree with Dave...Resolve the low voltage first -- Forget the dash gauge and use a meter!

Since you now have the lambda working (20 & pulsing), I'd suggest investigating the popping and Control pressure next.
You can verify the fire and order by pulling one plug at a time. You can see/hear RPM drop. If all hit and the RPM drop is fairly even, I'd check the control pressure next. Otherwise, I'd pull the plugs to check their condition and compare them with each other, and, do a compression check.
(Something should raise its ugly head ;-)

Stick/Auto?

txdmc
08-08-2018, 01:31 AM
Just an update: solved mostly

I installed a new idle speed switch, didn’t hook the wires up to the correct terminals

Car drives like a stage 2 now in closed loop mode, idle is perfect and that volt meter won’t budge from 13 no matter how many accessories are on. A slight sputter, going to write that off as fouled plugs/o2 sensor from all the hacking with the mixture.

Will get it with the dwell meter in the coming days along with the new plugs and o2 sensor. Can’t keep the neighbors up with the loudness. Amazing how a simple switch of wires could create such an issue.

Drives like a dream now. Took it down some farm roads that are nice and new and curvy with hills.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk