Need advice on installing hood seal

[jagee]

I'm replacing my hood seal because it's in pretty bad shape and I have a few questions. Which directions do the holes in the seal go? Do they go toward the outside incase any water gets inside the seal, it has a place to get out without draining into the luggage compartment? Or does it go toward the inside to make the bends easier?

What's the best way to get it to bend it around the spot for the filler cap? Do you cut a slit in it so it will make the bend without wrinkling? Do you cut it completely and make the pieces match up? Or do you just glue it and hope it holds?

Thanks, this is honestly the best resource I have found and would be lost without all the knowledge on this site.

[Michael]

I replaced my seal sometime ago with a aftermarket weatherstrip. The factory seal worked, but it made the corner of my bonnet stick up like it was unlatched, even if it was tightly shut. I did a "How to" on the old forum using some very nice weatherstrip from Lowes. I didn't like the factory seal for 2 reasons. The first as mentioned, it was too thick and made the hood stick up, and second, it was just a straight(and wide) piece of strip that had no preset curves making it hard to go around corners unless you cut it, which just looked bad. It also has a self adhesive backing, so installing is a breeze.

The finished job looks so much better than any factory seal does. I will put up another how to this week sometime. I had forgot all about that until I read your thread.


EDIT: Found a few pics on my computer:

[Morpheus]

^ Not even night vision goggles would make those pics visible. Got any that you used a flash on?

[Michael]

^ Not even night vision goggles would make those pics visible. Got any that you used a flash on?

no

[Farrar]

Allow me:
5348

5349

5350

Farrar

[AdmiralSenn]

I re-attached my factory seal (in good condition, just the adhesive failed) by masking the area around where I wanted to adhere it, hitting the exposed areas with 3M Super Weatherstrip adhesive, and maneuvering the seal in ~2-foot sections, clamping them in place with a series of regular C-clamps and wood to protect the seal (and towels to protect the stainless). I could have done it in an afternoon if I'd had enough clamps. By clamping it I was able to force it to bend and follow the contours of the hood nicely.

[tommyrich]

Could you please provide more info on the weather strip? I need to put a seal on my hood. I have a new OEM one, but it is kind of bent up from sitting in a bin for 30 years and I am not looking forward to trying to make the bends.

Do you have the product (from Lowes) name, dimensions, or material type? It looks to be about 1" wide, but can't be sure. Went to my local Lowes today and they didn't have anything resembling this.

Any help would be appreciated,
Tom

[Michael]

As luck would have it, I have to swing by there tonight. I will see if I can snap a few cell phone pics of what I used.

[DMCMW Dave]

Could you please provide more info on the weather strip? I need to put a seal on my hood. I have a new OEM one, but it is kind of bent up from sitting in a bin for 30 years and I am not looking forward to trying to make the bends.



Best advice is to take the hood off the car and lay it on the ground upside down. Use 3M Super weatherstrip adhesive as contact cement (i.e. put on both surfaces and let it set a minute or two) and tape in place overnight if necessary.

[Delorean Industries]

Best advice is to take the hood off the car and lay it on the ground upside down. Use 3M Super weatherstrip adhesive as contact cement (i.e. put on both surfaces and let it set a minute or two) and tape in place overnight if necessary.

I agree with this method. Only do this it off car if you want great results. You can use the weatherstrip adhesive but make sure if you use the yellow kind you are not sloppy with it. The end result is a bit ugly if you are. At DPI we use a thin bead of window weld 3m urethane to attach the seal. This is also what we use on the older style outer door gaskets (ours are now available with 3M adhesive backing).

Hood removal is not all that bad. The issue is the two push pin connectors for the hood light falling down inside the fiberglass requiring the removal of the center grill to fish back through or removing the sometimes present ground straps from the corners by the fenders.

Also make sure you scribe the hood alignment gently into the hinge pattern on both sides to facilitate the same alignment as before.

I would definitely recommend waiting 24 hours for the seal to dry. If you have done any paint work to the fiberglass make sure you do not use a tape to hold the gasket that has a heavy adhesive.

[tommyrich]

As luck would have it, I have to swing by there tonight. I will see if I can snap a few cell phone pics of what I used.

That would be great,
Thanks.

[Michael]

Didnt make it to Lowes tonight, but I will find it for you soon. Lowes had about 5 different types and just about any will work, its mainly personal preference. On the old site I has stock numbers, etc. but it's since been long erased.

[Farrar]

Michael, are you talking about this stuff?

6453

Farrar

[Michael]

Michael, are you talking about this stuff?

6453

Farrar
That looks exactly like what I used. Same color packaging and all.

[Chris 16409]

Michael, are you talking about this stuff?

6453

Farrar

My buddy Ryan King used the same whether stripping. Unfortunately, the original adhesive that came on it failed after a short while. We used some black silicone adhesive to put it back on. Ryan can chime in to tell us if he's had any problems with the repair.

[tommyrich]

Looks like Mcmaster has the same stuff (www.mcmaster.com). Item #93085K19. It comes in longer lengths too (10,20,50 and 100 ft). Thanks for the help! :cheers:I belive that 20 feet outght to be enough.
Tom

[Michael]

My buddy Ryan King used the same whether stripping. Unfortunately, the original adhesive that came on it failed after a short while. We used some black silicone adhesive to put it back on. Ryan can chime in to tell us if he's had any problems with the repair.

Mine has been on for over a year now. I would have liked to get a 25' run of it when I did mine. I had to use 2 packages, but I made my seams at the bottom edges near the front fascia. I wanted a solid piece next to the windshield as that's where you need the best seal.

[tommyrich]

653065316532

This worked out GREAT. I purchased 50 ft from mcmaster. It came in 1 day. I used far less than half on the hood (will use the other half on my other car). It was so simple it took less than 15 minutes including cleaning the hood with alcohol. I highly recommend this method. Sticks great, easy to make the tight bends and hood closes perfectly. Pictured above is the NOS seal that I purchased. It would have been a nightmare to bend the tight corners, not to mention it has kinks and twists from sitting in a bin for 30 years!

Thanks All for the help!
Tom:thumbup: